It was a genuine query which will benefit all the members here..I am sure most wouldn't have opened the switch ,and a pic explains better than words...so it was the least I could do to help out..

The OE Keihin V3 carb is not available in pre-used market ,and a new one is around Rs.6,000/-. Do not go for higher Venturi size than 30mm..You can try the BS29 from UCAL which is 2,300/-.The Tps can be fitted with some trial and error method or else set TPS at half way mark.
While packing the switch assembly with grease may prevent moisture ingress, I am not too sure about the switch contacts ,since they may develop loose contact with grease/oil getting on to them..guess time will gives us an incite into it.

Sir,My HH passion's switch assembly lasted for 6yrs and more than 1.5lac kms.
The contacts are made up of excellent quality copper and does not corrode easily even after washing it everyday but the only problem I have noticed is, after continuous usage debris/dust gets accumulated on the contacts .

Solution-Open It and let it soak in diesel/kerosene and then wash it away every year.
or replace it (splendor/passion switch assembly costs just Rs.190/-).

well as of petrol there is good enough petrol as i never run my bike on reserve till date , my afr is at 3.5 turn , now the rest is airleak checking left ,spark plug is even fine.
from tday I feel its getting fixed a bit ,i think maybe the engine oil might be the reason as after driving 200 kms i feel that its not losing the acceleration and even the engine off like issue while downgrading gear has vanished to some extent.
PSR sir need your valuable feedback as I will be going for a check again

My bike completed 10000kms (500 with me). I hope it runs well for the next 40K.

whenever the carburetor is cleaned and put back there is a minor change in idle RPM.So set the idle RPM when engine is hot, to between 1250 to 1400. ,regarding acceleration being less, if you had shifted from 10w30 to 20w40 this is imminent, but the engine remains cooler,and performs better...the oil also lasts upto 1,500 Kms and can be changed between 1,500 Kms to 2,000 Kms .

If the swing arm bushes had been greased and lubed properly ,then the other suspect area for rear suspension noise is the shock absorber mounting itself...remove the shocks, and apply a little grease on the mounting studs and refit the shocks .

thanks was feeling the same it seem to be ok day by day......

Is it possible to mod a zma /zmr into crf230 as i came across somewhere both have same engine chasis

Only the engine is same rest all including Carb,CDI ,Stator,...etc., are different.

i tried everything (even wd40)... the afr screw is stuck... any other way ???

yeah was aware of these my doubt was about the chasis sir are they same or different just asked beciz eith both zma and zmr in the line up i dont think hero moto corp ll bring in impulse223cc so my question is , is there any possibility to convert/mod a new/used zma/zmr into a crf230 for off-road use

No the chasis of ZMA/ZMR are different from CRF 230.The crf has lightweight strengthened chasis....you must be aware that the CRF weighs only 108Kgs against 150+ for ZMA.

After soaking the screw and surrounding in brake oil/wd40 for 15 minutes, take a flat blade screwdriver ,place it on the screw,and gently hammer it.This method will loosen up the screw...
Be careful with the hammer tapping..if you hit it with force it will ruin the carb.

Top Speed

Yesterday , along with Vineeth bro I went on a short trip - @ 20 km . There were some straights and when Vineeth was in front it was not possible to keep pace with him . The increase in pick up is -I think- in proportion to the increase in cc/power . I maxed out just below 120 kmph . I guess Vineeth still had juice left in his steed , but since his speedo wasn't working (suspected broken speedo gear) it didn't make sense for him to push it further .
I had been plagued by rough front brake lever . When I apply the front brake , it'd go trrrrrr instead of smooth action . Earlier , the mechs told me it's 'cause of bad washer (?) inside the mechanism at the lever. Y'day , I was told otherwise and my personal (!) mech- have known him since my RX100 days - cleaned the bottom part and replaced the pads .

This is the pic of the old pads
Now no trrr.

I'd been running on 3 turns on AFR screw . I asked him to up it to 3.5 . He said that's not the correct way and proceeded to tune it his normal way . After about 5 minutes , he told me that the air filter might need replacement . I told him it's a modded one from Zen mpfi and at first he couldn't digest it ( he's company trained in many earlier bikes - lol ) . Finally he adjusted it to 3.25 and I said I'll check it and change if required . It was on the return trip from there that I touched 118 - 119 on the speedo. I hadn't checked my top speed before that - mainly because my rides didn't require me going on the NH . Now I have a bench mark .
The ride was an important one . I'd gone to that mech to ask about the possibility of plonking in a P220 piston in my ZMA R . The project is on but I'm not sure how long it'll take since there are so many variables on his side .
I'll keep you guys updated .

what has to be done when the tire rubs against the chain cover ...? I pull it back out and after some kms it starts rubbing again . I'm using Dunlop Monster rear tire .