im looking for used zma or zma r,shortly become in zma family so could you guys guide me how to know about engine condition?weak points to look for and how to know bike is not ridden properly?

zma's engine is smooth & refined... so its supposed to be silent... if there is very slight unwanted noise (like "ting ting" & "nok nok", it could be the tappet (this can be easily solved)... if there are other unwanted noises, there could be some mods like free air flow fiter, exhaust etc... so ask the seller about it...

a good zma engine should reach 75kmph & 100kmph in 5th gear in 5k & 6k rpm respectively (single rider)...

when you ride at high speeds & if you feel the wheels shaking then either there is misalignment of wheels or bend in the alloy rims...

look for oil leaks around the engine... oil leak problem can occur from a worn out gasket to a damaged seal in the engine... repairing it can cost from rs50 to rs5k...

ask if the bike had any serious accidents... 1 way to find is to look for handle bends... if there were any serious accidents there could be bends inside the engine as well & it is very hard to be rectified...

look for loose or broken fairings, cowls, fenders, etc... it can cost an approximate of about rs10k...

we can trust odo readings upto an extent... but there are chances that the bike was run with the speedo cable removed or damaged... so its better for you to evaluate the bike... a zma run for 25k kms needs some engine parts changed, 50k kms needs more engine parts changed, 1lakh kms needs almost all parts of the engine to be replaced... ie. if you want a smooth running healthy engine...

make sure every electricals (lights, horn, starter, console, etc.) are working properly & check for blown fuses connected with wire... this shows short-circuit somewhere in the wiring or electricals... the stock zma battery is 7Ah & mostly aftermarket ones are 9Ah (7A batteries are hard to get & zma is well capable of charging a 9A battery)... also look for cuts in wires... this is done to draw extra power for mods like hid, aux lights, security system, horns, etc... these cuts tend to create problems in the future...

check the tyres, if they are worn out, new ones can cost approx rs5k...

check if there is oil present on the front forks... if there is oil present, the fork oil seal has to be changed...

check the condition of the carbeurator & its screws... karizma has a keihin 30mm carb... if someone has played with its internals, there is no way to know it other than to open it up or by using the bike in the long run...

then all usual stuff: check brakes, gear shift smoothness, chain tightness, sprocket conditions, engine number & chassis matches with certificate of registration, etc...

some general info:
*zma has a petrol reserve of 2L, of which only 1.5L is usable...
*during oil change, only refill with 900ml in general case & 1.2L while complete engine overhaul... oil grade: 20w 40 or 10w 30...
*fuel efficiency / mileage varies according to vehicle condition, riding style, place, climate, road condition, etc... in my case, i get a FE of 36kmpl average...

lastly zma spares are expensive & hard to source... make sure you get it readily in your area...

all these come from my experience of buying a used zma last month...
please correct me if i was wrong somewhere...

& do bargain heavily with the points i said... wish you best of luck buying a good zma...

5k - 80Kmph.

changed ball bearing for handle and some rubber cap with front fork oil changed,complete chain cleaning ,changed to motul 20w 40 and gt my carborator cleaned ,bike is smooth though somtime feel that its losing acceleration while changing in higher gears and when bringing the bike in lower gears or neutral it feels that the bike is dying and the engine stopping but it doesnt.
can anyone put light what might be causing it does the engine oil causing the issue or some loose contact somewhere.

well dont even think of doing it it will really hamper as the rear brakes are perfect for hault as the bike doesnt have that mechanism to suit the rear disc brakes as even if you drive at 120 both the brakes if applied properly will give u that hault, i believe it will be a fail if you do it as many aspect matters for rear disk braking and normally karizma tyre is used to skidding on rain as i beieve a wider tyre along with low height as in yamaha r15 v2 fit better for rear disc braking .

just a suggestion bro as I myself spoke to my mechanic and gave up the idea for doing it

i too had a similar problem... that was because of inadequate petrol... din't know about usable reserve...
other reasons for this could be that you might be running lean...
or, there could be an air leak somewhere in the manifold...
or, faulty spark plug...
also check your idle screw adjustment...
i don't think it has anything to do with engine oil...

My ISP was down,so I couldn't post the pic earlier..

thankyou very much sir...

OffTopic

Sir, I don't have any words to praise your dedication for this thread.
A member asked to open switch and you opened it.
Hope we have many people like you on this website and earth.
Once again thank you.

+ A Billion.

I know this isnt the right place to post this but im a desperate man! So please excuse maadi! If anyone has a spare zma carb that they would like to part with, please do let me know. Looking for a 06 or post 06 manufactured carb. It can be a used piece but should be in good working condition.

Cheer!

If by chance you're not aware then, the P220 carb'll do just fine in ZMA, expect for the TPS part.

Ashwin, im well aware of it but i want the TPS to workl! Not too comfortable jamming it at full advance!

Oopsie, then I guess there's no other option than going for ZMA carb itself.

Psr'jee , I have hardened the solder joints and then packed this entire thing full with grease in my bike . Any ill effects ?