JD, I think you have got me wrong. My engine RPM is not varying, it only the RPM needle which is fluctuating. Sometimes it works as if everything is normal & at specific RPM I am able to reach the desired speed which I was able to reach earlier also before the problem came.

I was having the idle rpm fluctuating problem,no problem while riding,just idling problem,adjusted the AFR to 4 turns and it became normal.

@ All

Sold my ZMA yesterday!

Bye Bye to my Mighty Bull!

Something wrong with it's electronics . May be a loose contact . Not sure though where to look .

Spark Plug reading

I'd been running on AFR 3 turns out for more than 800 km and this is the state of the spark plug . Can you guys please tell me whether I'm running
lean ?




Also is the gap correct ?

If a clearer pic is needed I'll get one .

Yes,Its lean. Try atleast 3.5 Turns.

I encounter this problem every once in a few months. I just clean the bad rust and melted petroleum jelly off the battery terminals properly and re-connect it. Works fine after that! The frequency increases if i wash the bike often as water tends to fall on the batt terminals.

This also happens if the batt is weak/discharged.

Also, check the small black fuse(inline) after the main relay.

Cheers!

I think either the console connector under the console had developed loose contact or the console itself is going bad ...if you have warranty get it changed.
The pic shows that the plug is running at correct temperature. The gap is pre-set to 0.9 which is the spec for ZMA. I guess your's is an Iridium plug,which does not require any adjustment...
Here is a pic of my G power plug after 800 Kms


I am getting 38 or more kms per liter in city , after the Emulsion tube mod.

horn & wiring problem...

last week i had given my zma at svc as headlight was not working... pass light & pilot lights were working... also checked the headlight switches with tester & it was working too... the svc guys fixed the problem & said that the wiring had loose contact... they billed me for a h/l bulb which got blown due to short-circuit when they tested the wiring...

after i took my bike from the svc, i noticed that the horn was producing only a "puck puck" sound... i thought it would be the adjustment screw... but when i tighted the adjustment screw & pressed horn button, the wires to the horn got hot & smoke started comming from the horn... now the horn was completely dead with now sound at all, even after tuning the adjustment screw...

so i bought a roots smartone low-tone single horn (3A) & connected to the old horn's wires... still i get only "puck puck" sound with a slight dim in all the lights of the bike... so i checked the fuses & found the blue 15A blade fuse to be blown & was tied with copper wire (bloody svc guys)... replaced it with a spare i had... then i connected the new horn directly to the battery & it worked with no problems...

so i bought a roots 3pin 10A horn relay & connected the horn to it as per the diagram that came with the relay... now, when i press horn button i get a short beep from the horn & the console lights turn on & start to flicker even with ignition key in off...

i'm not able to find why this happens... could it be that the svc guys did something with the wiring? my old horn was working perfectly till i gave it to svc...

please help...

everything stock except battery: amaron probike rider 9A beta series

Your SVC had indeed screwed up your wiring...I have the same Amaron 9 AH with 55/60 halogen and twin horns of 2 Amps each, and without any relay anywhere..so far I had faced no electrical problem at all at any time.

psr ji,
any DIY solutions?
i don't want to go to that crappy svc again..

Unless you can understand circuits ,.. wiring, and connections in particular it is not DIY.

The SVC guys has played too much with your wiring's . Get back to them or aother svc . If you want to fix it yourself then open the front fairing & look carefully in wiring , is there any extra wire ? Generally similar color wire would be attached to each other , as you headlight is not working so might they have changed the supply stock wire sky blue in color , not sure as i have lost the karizma wiring diagram i snapped & also deleted from here as it's of poor quality . Check is there they have removed that wire & added another .

Try to collect that wiring diagram if any one have saved it .

i can understand some basic wiring... i've studied them in high school... i do pc wiring & routing... internal & external... never tried bikes though until yesterday...


actually i don't know any good svcs in my area... i also took the bike to a few local mechs... on seeing the digital console, they are saying that it's computer stuff & refuse to do anything...

I think the wiring harness is the culprit,There may be some cracks inside the insulation or anything like that?

maybe... i changed all the horn wiring except the horn switch positive wire... will change that too...