motul semi synth 10 W 50
motul 300v
veedol super swift 10 w 40
Motul Mineral oil(3000 4T 20W40)

Felt agip 20W40 much bettor than HH and motul 10w30.
currently running on agip 5w40 synthetic.

Motul Mineral based comes with 2 variants...
Motul 3000 4T which is 20W40
Motul 3100 4T which is 10W40

i've used a silicon RTV rubber sealent to supress the noise...

I suggest Penzoil for front forks

At last changed 2 Gulf 10w30.it is much better than HH oil. hmmmm itz, itz like gud.
Just bought a bottle last week from Metro for 167 bucsk. It will be my next change.

Get a 4pin Hella relay (black colour) and install ROOTS/BOSCH twin horns. Its way better than any Pulsar horn

i changed the oil from the HH recommended oil to ELF 10W 30
gear shifting has never felt this smooth.change the oil and it will get smooth.

try Castrol Power 1 Racing 4T - fully synth 10W40.

This is to inform all fellow Karizma riders that the TVS Apache front disc pads are a direct fit on the Zma. Recently fitted the Apache pads on my bike and

it brakes just like the stock Nissin pads or better id say.

Brand: Amaron
Model: Pro Bike Rider
Capacity: 9amps
Type: Sealed, maintainance free
Cost: Rs 1500/-
Warranty: 60 Months (Yes, thats true!)
Where?: JC Road, Bangalore
Now comes fitting part, no major worries, this battery is just marginally bigger in terms of height to stock battery, so a bit of hammering to the battery

"cage" made this battery fit inside with out probs. Next about the "gate" or battery lock, That has to be bent a bit as this battery is a bit "fatter" than

the stock. Once the "gate" is bent to accomodate the "fat" battery, you need to use a lengthy bolt instead of the small bolt to "fix" the "gate" and voila!

you got extra power fitted right in to the same battery "cage"

I am using Chain Spray from OKS.
That's an equally good albeit expensive option

The Motul 3000 4T 10W30 900ml bottles were available earlier but have disappeared from the market since about an year I think. Someone confirmed from a Motul

Distributor that it is available in 50 liter cans though...

I too encountered a similar noise problem right from my first refill up to my first service. Tightened every bloody fairing bolt, engine cowl bolt, whatever

nut or bolt was visible but still couldn't resolve the noise.
Then the service centre guys 'removed' the fairing and checked, the noise still persisted. So obviously the root cause laid elsewhere. The finally pin

pointed the problem to the wiring harness clip below the fuel tank which hold the wiring in place. That clip was rubbing and vibrating against the tank and

creating an irritating noise.

I changed my fork oil today (thanks Ravi, for the info!). Replaced the existing oil with Castrol fork oil, 150 ml per side. While the old oil was being

drained, I found that one shock's oil was dirty greyish-black which I think is normal, while the other was a dirty rusty brown - a clear sign that water had

found its way in. I'd say the amount of water was low, but enough to cause the spring to rust.

battery- 12V-7Ah
Alternator-flywheel A.C generator (188W)
headlight(high/low) halogen bulb, multi reflector- 12V- 35/35W-DC type
position lamp- 3W x 2
tail/stop light combination- 5/21W x 2
rear number plate lamp- 5W
turn signal lamp-21W x 4
neutral indicator/turn signal indicator/high beam indicator- all 12V LEDs
FUSE
main-20A
clock-7.5A
ignition-7.5A
stop/turn signal/meter light-15A

Yesterday I took her to Highway for a 150-km ride; first ride after the summer (a long gap) and first ride with Sirac. It performed splendid. Could touch 120

with Sirac. But, it needs a better front tyre. Now feeling a lighter front, scary under hard braking. Planning to go for M45 3 x 18.
My favorite stance of Zma, now with Sirac. Shot this yesterday.

ZMA has a final 5th gear ratio which enables the 16 kmph for every 1k rpm tacho. You can accurately check your speed by this method.
7.7 k rpm at 5th gear translates to 123 kmph.
Through this method the error would be only 2-3 kmph provide there are no high winds, etc. and road is straight level only.

Sorry, it is my fault. It is 15.09 kmph and not 15.90 or 16 kmph.

Gear Ratio kmph/1000rpm
1st 2.769 4.44
2nd 1.722 7.14
3rd 1.263 9.74
4th 1.000 12.30
5th 0.815 15.09

At 8k rpm, the true speed must be 120 kmph or so +/-2/3 kmph.

I own a beautiful REd Zma R done 3000km so far till now i was using Motul 3000 plus 10w-30 grade mineral oil as was unable to find HH 10w30 manufactured by

Idemitsu all i found was manufactured by BP.
Guys not really happy with motul performance oil looses its velocity after 600-700km and engine becomes rough again.

Hero Honda branded 10W30 oil made by Idemitsu (Savita Chemicals) or Tide Water Co. are the best mineral oils for the Karizma. The engine is smoothest for the

longest time when this oil is used in my experience.
Avoid HH branded oil made by BP.
I've tried Castrol Power 1 and Gulf 10W30 semi-synthetic oils but came away disappointed with their performance - the engine didn't feel as smooth when the

oil was changed and the smoothness went away pretty soon (some 500km or so).

I am considering changing my pilot Lamps on my ZMA to LED Lamps. I am sure it must be available in India, but no aware of the cost. Can someone shed some

light on its pros & cons ....
Dude, it's available in all car accessory shops and it's chinese make!!! costs 150 a pair in Coimbatore. pros- bright and distinctive looks, Cons- if ur

pilot lamps are running DC then not an issue, if AC then will loose them in a weeks time as they tend to blow off on AC!!!!

My 2 year old OE Amco battery performance has been iffy. Starting the bike up when holding the front brake sapped enough power to make the cranking weak

which necessitated the occasional kick-start. I decided then to change the battery.
Based on a few others' experiences, I wanted to upgrade to a 9AH battery in place of the stock 7AH.
The Amaron Pro Rider 9AH VRLA battery is what I chose. It comes with a 30+30 month warranty and cost Rs. 1400 after exchange. A couple of dealers were

advising against this battery claiming that there are many unexplained failures and the battery does not recharge if allowed to discharge completely. I

figure the 30 month replacement warranty with the added benefit of another 30 months replacement on a pro-rata basis couldn't hurt.
VRLA batteries are sealed and require no maintenance. They have no vent/drain pipe that we're used to either.
The battery retaining clamp had to be bent to accommodate the 9AH battery's wider body, this was easily accomplished with the hand, no need for tools. I used

the side fairing's retaining flathead screw to hold the clamp in place, because the stock bolt was touching the fairing when it was put back in place.
I also taped the clamp with PVC tape just to increase the 'cushioning effect and help the bent clamp align itself evenly with the wider battery's body.
The bike now cranks up very eagerly.

A headlight relay from Bosch can be used in Karizma with wiring kit.

Is Hunk rear indicators a direct fit on ZMA ? I remember some one doing it here
Yup they are..


Is Hunk rear indicators a direct fit on ZMA ? I remember some one doing it here
yeah its a direct fit..i`ve got it done on my bike..only issue is u need to change the bulbs of the hunk indicator..cause on the original bulb the flasher

doesnt work..i`ve put tata indica`s amber colour osram bulb..been working smoothly since over a year

Can I fit RTR RVM on ZMA?
Yea! Sure.




RTR's pads would be around 400 bucks. There is another good cheaper option. Go to a good automobile shop and ask for CBZ disc pads. Ask for the brand 'ASK';

price is just 90-100 bucks. ASK is OEM supplier of disc pads to Honda. My ZMA has been running on them for the past 8k kms without any issues.

Even RTR users are using ASK pads as cheaper option and they are very much happy.

gujuri as in second/third/fourth hand, scrap yard behind shivajinagar Bascillica. u will find anything and everything related to

bikes/cars/trucks/tractors/..../

So Please suggest me a good tyre (with tube or tubless) that gives me good grip on wet roads and can be installed without removing the chain cover and which

is having least impact on acceleration and top speed


I have been using M45 front and rear no modifications on the chain cover
Tyres have good grip/excellent on off roads
i get around 42 on highways and 38-39 in city
Top end performance has decreased down 5kms however bike does go to 100 easily max it goes is 120


Michllein M45 is a lighter tyre comapred to stock mrf...I have not expernce any drop in top speed or in gear acceleration at all

Go for the Michellin M45 rear and incase u need front too... the front is available too.. you can chck krp for price.. both are tube type..but excellent grip

and lighter than stock tyres

Thanks for all for replying for my query regardign selecting back tyre for my Karizma for getting
better grip on wet tarmac for my 5 day road trip .
Now the problem is as many suggested i decided to go for Michelin M 45 4 * 18 .But it is not at all
avaialable in chenaai . i enquired many places but cannot find it . Some has 3* 18 but it dosnt suit my
bike(less than sotck size) .
So i have decide to go for MRF Zapper Q 110/90 * 18 . But i want to know the detials fo the same.
beign my stock size 100/90 *18 , do i have to remove my Chain cover to install Zappe Q 110/90 * 18 ?
Have any one tried 110/90 * 18 in Karizma ? (i have seen Karizma with 120/80 nad 100/90(stock) but i
have never seen any 110/90 *18 ) .
i would liek to knwo is 110/90 * 18 zapper Q is a direct fit for my Zma without removign chain guard.
i dont want to go for 120/80 since i dont want such heavy/wide tyre taht may drop my accelaration /Top
end/ mileage..
i would like to know Zapper Q 's performace on Wet roads..
Most imporatantly if any one know any place in tamilnadu/kerala/andrapradesh/karnatka where i can get
m45 michelin that will be great.i can happily go for micheln m 45 without any doubt or question

And, I do not think M45 will touch the chain guard. Only Sirac will have problems with chainguard. M45 is very good and I do not think it will affect the top

speed, if at all, very very marginally.

I have been using M45 almost 6000km now Front and rear
Tyres have excellent Grip and you can do offroading with an ease
no need to remove the chain gaurd
i am using M45 as tubeless and it works well
no decrease in avg i am getting 40 in city and 45 on highways
top speed has marginally decreased by 5kms top i achive is 120

i decided to go for M45 and i got it !!
In chennai it was not available but one tyre was avialable in bagalore
i asked my friend to go and buy it and he called me 10 min earlier telling me he got the tyre
The price was 1848 for tyre alone.
i am plannign to use my old tube (stock tube came with bike 22k done ) since it is not showing any problems now.
Hope it is ok to use the old tube with the new tyre. Or should i buy a new ??
i am going to banglore this weekend and probably by next weekend i will fit it on my Zma . I will post the experiance regarding the grip and feel it gives ,

any effect on mileage , top speed if any etc.. once i started using it .
@coplay - actually i didnt bought it from any retail tyre shop i contacted
Guarav lal ( gogreen is his id in xbhp) the all india sales manager of michelin and he gave me chennai and banglore contacts of michelin sales managers .. i

called them and initially they told its difficult to get M45 4*18 size but later he arranged one in bagalore.. If you want it you can contact him ..i am not

sure whether he have any ready stocks.

I have Sirac on my Zma and have the chain cover too
120\80\18 does not foul with chain cover
120\90\18 does.

what is your experience with Sirac?
How is the grip on wet and dry roads?
How much is the cost?
To what extend it is affecting top speed and mileage..

i am using it as tubeless
and i am pretty happy with it.
there has been hardly any loss in performance
and grip is pretty nice,both on and off the road

Hi Guys...I am facing a wierd problem here...I had my front fork oil changed today from a local mechanic...He used some 'Endurance' brand oil..poured around

350 ml bottle equally in both forks...But now after that I am feeling that the front suspensions have become very stiff...I am even feeling small holes on

the road like big holes ..When I asked the mechanic he said that it will become normal in 3-4 days..but I am really concerned...please help...Did I use the

wrong oil? Which brand oil should I use?..

Mate, if he used the Endurance Fork Oil and if you are sure of the originality of the Oil, be sure, it is the best one for your Bike.
As for pouring in 350 mls each in both forks, I seriously doubt because as per the company manual, its should be aprox. 145 ml for each fork.

i have changed my Rear tyre to M45 michelin .As many told it is NOT touching the chaingurad . i am happy . Thanks for all for the suggestion .
I will share the experiance with it after riding it for 1 week . iwill try it on all kind of surfaces and share my experaince including the effect on mileage

and top speed if any ..

I just changed over to Motul 15w50 semi synth oil and must say, the bikes gone even smoother! And when perfectly warmed up, she flies like never before!

damnnn smoooth
I would recommend this to every ZMA and prospective ZMR owners here. Drainage period is 2000 or 3000 kms i guess.
I got it for rs 350 a ltr.

I completely agree with you dude...I think you are talking about Motul 5100. Its an awesome oil. Works good esp after warming up..gear shifts become like

electric button on/off. No false gearing.
Anyways Motul 5100 retails for 395, I would be more than happy to buy it from your friend. Can you pm me his or your no? Where is his shop, i can pick it up

directly myself.

As i told i changed to Michelin M 45on my rear ..
I have an interesting experience to share ..

Before changing the rear tyre i took the bike to highway and checked the top speed .. The highest one i got was 135 . (usually my bike wont cross 130 ) after

two days i changed my rear tyre (while front is still the stock one which did 24 k but still in ok condition)

After i changed the tyre and took the bike on highways but this time i couldnt strect much as there were a lot of trucks but the bike touched 130 in a

straight road. (i think it can do more if i pushed more hard )

so M 45 on rear wont decrease top end

Reagrding the accelaration i didnt find any noticable diference

so M 45 will not make a noticable change in accelaration (atleast for me i didnt feel any change in accelaration now if the situation changes i wil update)

Mileage still i am testing it .. i cannot comment it now . but will update it later..

But the handling increased to new levels. The m 45 is giving awsome grip and gives more confidense . it inspires confidense on corneres (but i didnt try to

corner hard as my front is stil stock old tyre). I can really feel the difference. I tried braking hard the rear brakes but till today no fish taling . So i

will recommend M 45 if you are looking for a tyre that wont decrease your aceelaration/ top end and you need not remove chain guard and gives awsoem grip .

It is slighlty wider than stock tyre.

But the interestign thing i noticed is this

My Rpm meter readings for corresponding speed readigns
changed .

Now the bike touches
65 km/hour at 4 k rpm
80 at 4.8 k rpm (earlier it was 80 at 5 k )
100 at 6 k rpm (earlier it was 100 at 6.5 k )
110 at 6.5 k rpm (earlier it was at 110 at 7 k rpm)
120 at 7.5 k rpm

I got it done on my own...its pretty simple..just i`ve put tata indica`s amber indicator bulbs as the stock bulbs in the indicator doesnt flash

So you mean, put a Hunk Indicator n Tata Indica's bulb in it?

even the tata indica`s bulb are big..but they fit..u cant use the stock zma bulb as its not orange in colour..u need an orange bulb in clear lens indicator

Huh?? I know stock ZMA bulbs are clear. I just wanted to test if wiring was correct, then found out that the Hunk plastic indicator cover cannot close with

ZMA bulb inside. So though Hunk must be using smaller bulb.

Are Indica & ZMA stock bulb same size?

In the interests of safety, the stock ZMA horn and lights need to be upgraded, no question about it. The upgrades are eminently affordable and are easily

performed. IMO it is a no-brainer to have these done as soon as possible.

These upgrades need more energy, which a larger capacity battery can provide. Under standard conditions, A 7 ampere hour battery can provide 7 amperes of

current for one hour. A 9 ampere hour battery can provide 9 amperes over that same period of one hour. It can simply store more current, not to be confused

with voltage. It is incorrect to assume that using a battery with a higher AH rating will cause damage to the electrical system. When the engine runs, its

alternator continuously generates current, some of which is routed to the battery to recharge it.

Remember, a battery does not 'produce' electricity, it is akin to a reservoir that stores & provides energy in the form of electricity when needed. When the

electricity is drawn, it leads to a discharge, which the bike's electrical system needs to recharge to bring battery storage levels back to the brim.

It remains to be proven whether or not the ZMA's electrical system is capable of recharging a 2AH larger capacity battery. In the interests of safety

meanwhile, upgrading the light and horn along with the battery seem to be the right thing to do.

Worst case scenario? The battery wont get recharged enough and *may* need replacement before the end of its design life. No biggie, batteries luckily don't

cost the moon.

If your battery needs to be replaced, then go with a 9AH, which will make it capable to give your bike the extra juice as and when needed.

I am using a P200 O-ring chain on my Zma.

Front I have kept the same at 13 teeth. Rear I am using P200 38 teeth instead of Zma's 40 and the chain is also of P200.

No problems whatsoever.

Yeah!! Even I have the same setup. Front of Zma and rest of P200.
P220 rear is 37 teeth, P200 rear is 38 Teeth and Zma is 40 Teeth.

I am running 38 at present. You can try P220's 37.

Hey that's great news. Been wanting to try o-ring. Was wondering whether the p200/220 chain length is the same as ZMA. I thought ZMA wheel base is slightly

longer so maybe p-200/220 chain may be slightly shorter. Could you please confirm whether its same. Yeah, using smaller diameter rear sprocket might

compensate, but would like to know if p-200/220 chain is long enough when used with stock ZMA rear sprockets. Lastly, what's the price of the chain? Thanks.

I am using the Petronas 5000T Fully Synthetic oil.. it costs around 360 per liter.
Wonderful oil. Worth it, every single bit.

AFR Means air fuel ratio,

Something unusual which happened for the second time today on my 2005 model ZMA.
I was riding at close to 120+ and suddenly the engine stopped. Opened the tank to find very very little petrol. tried starting it but in vain. Pushed the

bike for a kilometre and filled petrol. Tried starting almost 20- 30 times (with and without choke), but in Vain . The engine almost goes to life and then

dies.
Finally put her to rest in my Office parking lot. Came back after an hour and she started in just one Kick.

Thats due to something called 'Vapor Lock'. In simple terms, the carb is gravity fed and the pipe handles liquid fuel. If a petrol vapor bubble gets trapped

in the pipe, it will not allow fuel to flow. The vapor forms if the engine gets heated either due to sustained high speeds or very low speeds in heavy

traffic and the radiant heat from the engine evaporates the fuel in the pipe. In your case, it seems more of a case of air-lock. The fuel tank was drained

dry and so air got into the pipe.

Remedy: Switch off petrol, pull out the fuel pipe end that goes into the carb, open fuel tap to let a little petrol flow out and re-connect the pipe to the

carb.
Leaving the bike for a couple of hours allows the engine to cool off, the vapor condenses back to liquid and so petrol starts flowing again.

My ZMA has completed 5800km and I decided to get the stock rubber changed to Michelin M45 (front and rear). Total bill was Rs3700. While my bike was getting

its change, the adjacent bay had a brand new S-Class getting its wheels aligned ... hmm. Just 2 more wheels isnt it ?

It is too early to comment on the grip as i was largely pussy-footing thru the roads as I m yet to get familiar with the slightly different traction. A few

weeks back (while on zapper) I skidded (the front end) in a road turn/corner with lot of construction mud/debris. I actually dropped the bike on its left,

bent clutch and broken gear lever. This incident made me look out for better rubber (now that we cant change the idiots on the road).

No mods required for 2.75 M45 front and 4.00 M45 rear on the ZMA-R. I am still on break-in mode for the tyres - hope to give it the stick after a week or so

to figure out the upper reaches of its traction.

On a lighter vein.... Incidently, my tyre switch over of MRF to Michelin happened just outside the MRF-headquarters compound wall with the MRF-man statue

(with a tyre overhead) was staring at me. MRF- are you listening? I hate to move allegiance from India to France - but I ve got only one life.

I have been using the Amron Probiker 9ah battery in my ZMA. It has been working great! I cannot give a long-term experience as I have been using it only for

the last two months. There are two variants - alpha series and the beta series. While the alpha comes with 60-month warranty, the beta comes with 48-month

warranty.

Model: AP-ATX9
Price: ~INR 1500
Mods: The metal latch/plate has to be bent a bit. Requires some effort to push the battery in.

.. .or you can use double sided tape wherever the fairing is making vibrations.The fairing is easy to open.remove the headlight cable, remove the two screws on the top near the tank.then remove two nuts from under the fairing.rest are plastic joints just like the side cowl.in my bike the two plastic joints near the headlamp were broken so i removed the fairing and fixed it with araldite and put it back in.this was done after numerous attempts to get the service center guys to do it.i found out that i could put back the fairing without any vibes !!.ended up doing a better job then any mech. screw the SVC they are only interested in replacing spare parts and nothing else.

Double sided tape will work though I will not recommend using "Araldite". Araldite is too strong and will have problem when you want to take apart the fairing. So I would recommend gasket sealant. This is rubber-like glue that does NOT becomes hard even after getting dry. Only problem is the one I came across comes only in white, red and transparent. Transparent will be transparent if only applied very thinly, else they become very visible.