Hi Guys!

Last week I got my bike, yellow in colour.
It was a dream come true which lasted almost 7 years (since the launch).
Well, in first 5 days, followings are my observations & concerns.

Observations -
1. Idle rpm was set to 1500 by mechanic which went up to 2000 at times.
2. Gear shifting becomes hard when I have to change gears frequently. As soon as I touch highways or smooth roads, gear shift becomes smooth.
3. Bike was vibrating like hell sometime (probably because of rpm touching 2000)
4. Initially, I feel like pushing-pulling itself on its own (all call very little jerks) for fraction of seconds. This is very hard to notice though.
5. Ride becomes a little harsher at times, can not zero on preconditions.

Concerns -
1. What should be idle rpm to avoid engine stalling at signals after reaching neutral. Today, I have set it to 1200 on my own. I had ridden almost 5-6 KMs early in the morning since I started my bike.
2. During my second service can I rely upon engine oil which service center guys use? If not which one to go for?
3. I tend to change gears at 3500 rpm, is that fine in run in period, or I shall squeeze it till 4000?
4. Which petrol to be used? Thinking of putting any brand but unleaded only.
5. What is the tyre pressure I need to maintain for solo ride & with pillion ride.
6. If I have to lock handle, if I keep it at extreme right, it gets locked. But if I keep it at extreme left, it does not. However, if I don't move it completely to left & try, it gets locked.
7. Headlight is the major turn off for me. It ridicules me a lot. Lower beam hardly covers 10 feet distance whereas upper beam does lower beams job. Is there anyway I can get it adjusted?

Well,
At this moment, I have only these things in mind.
I will keep updating as and when I come across new ones (hope not to though).

i wont be able to ride my zma for 2-3 months.....what precautions shud i take??

will the battery discharged??/

i remember when i bought this bike brand new....the supervisor told me that the bike is lying idle for 3-4 months with battery conncected and i pressed self and it started in single attempt.

1. Idle RPM should be 1.1k to 1.3k

2. Gear shifting will be hard initially and then smoothen out. The engine usually frees up after 1.5 to 2k kms.

3. Changing gears at 3.5k RPM is good. You can change at 4k RPM too nothing wrong in that. Dont exceed them during the running-in or if you want a good average.

4. Any brand , normal fuel is fine for ZMA , however as per brand following and pump loyalty one can put in.

5. 25 PSI for the front and Rear - 29 PSI (without pillion) / 33 PSI (with pillion)

6. The lock mechanism is like that I guess, however that is not a cause of concern. Usually the key locks in where the proper match / slot is found when you lock it.

7. Usually the ZMA headlamp is good. However, you can adjust as per your convenience. There's a screw located just below/behind the headlamp assembly , rotating the screw will adjust your headlamp beam. If you are not confident enough then I guess ask a mechanic or the SS to do it , they will do it. In case you find the beam is not powerful enough, there are a lot of options like Osram Nightbreaker etc (discussed in the threads before) to change.

one of my friends suggested me that one should start your bike for 5 min every 15 days so that battery remains charge.

now i have a query will idling the bike for 5-10 min wont cause the carbon to deposit in engine???

completed close to 25k in 2 years. yep today is my bikes birthday. I am getting the chain sproket set and clutch plates changed .any other changes rquired after 25k on a bike.

My Fuel gauge is acting funny. Sometimes it shows full tank even if its almost empty. Happened today again. It showed only three bars initially, which is correct. By the time I reached office after 30 kms, it was showing full . What may be the problem? No. Its not a magic fuel tank . Will be taking to service center, all the same I would like to know what may be the problem. Appreciate some help here.

The fuel gauge wires/ sensor might have gone kaput or dirty. One more thing is instead of relying on the fuel meter you should rely on the ON-Reserve when the vehicle comes to reserve. Ask the SC about the problem. Usually a problem with bad sensor or dirty fuel sensor and can be done easily by them. Make sure you explain it correctly to them.

completed close to 25k in 2 years. yep today is my bikes birthday. I am getting the chain sproket set and clutch plates changed .any other changes rquired after 25k on a bike.

Agree with new chain and sprocket set

Congrats to you and your baby Steve. It completed 25k so soon; I still feel you just bought it recently.

Agree with new chain and sprocket set, but why do you want to change clutch plates at 25k. It is too early unless you have burnt them up.

MODS : should we have a new thread for ZMR?

Hi Bunny bhai,

I have a karizma r black and i have done the below changes to my rear tyre. thinking of selling the same tyre, please let me know if anyone would be interested. Its negotiable

I got excited and added M45 4 x 18 rear tyre for my Karizma R instead of zapper 100/90 , Initially the effects were evident as having excellent grip and cornering capabilities. But with in two days i tested these tyres thoroughly found that my ZMA requires a new front tyre and also there is small amount of lag say 1 - 2 Km.

Cant afford to have these tyres or in other words it would become a chain reaction.


I do have the bill, Bought these on 08 May 2010. Bought these tyres from lalbagh road Michelin dealer paying INR 1800/- . Mfg Date is Dec last week 2009.

Now i have gone back to zappers 100/90 18, which are lean and weak, could feel it.