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  • Originally posted by sunny_ View Post
    BTW, performance differences with this new filter????
    @psr Sir also, kindly reply.
    Bike feels free to rev and gives better FE, without much heating up.AFR screw 3.5 to 4 turns depending on the set up you want..3.5 turns moderate acceleration with 32 Kms city FE. 4 turns for good acceleration with 31 Kms FE.

    Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post
    Good to see you again sir,

    So comming back to the point. Whats if we're not able to source the hot glue... Would FEVIBOND do the job??? And if by any chance we did source it,what brand should we be looking out for???
    Yes but you have to wait for Fevibond to dry fully otherwise the suction inside the Air Box when you accelerate, will pull the glue in..which is why I used Hot glue ,which heals immediately.
    Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post
    And sir, If you've got time, could you please take a look at my previous post regarding the yellow zma restore. Thanks in advance.
    For the petrol tank cap there is a vent hole to be cleaned..
    It is the hole at the lower left corner in the Petrol cap..After removing the white one way valve in tank cap you can blow air through it and see if it comes out through the lower hole in tank cap.


    Originally posted by acs1207 View Post
    Sure will try

    Breath-ability is supposed to go up many fold .

    Sir , what is the thingy you have used to seal the gap at the right side of the filter ?
    It is a pink foam i had around which is used to block the Gap in the side...planning to fill it permanently with plastic piece.

    Originally posted by acs1207 View Post

    --- hope there are no embarrassing 'quote editings' this time... ---
    Yes thank you.
    Originally posted by sunny_ View Post
    Intake sound changes?

    In the stock setup, can I remove those nuts and any small thing from the last part of the exhaust to boost the sound to a small extent??
    Intake sound does not change..but the ZEN MPFI filter makes air breathing better than stock.....none of the Allenkey screws will give any access to the exhaust inner..To access either catcon or the baffles the exhaust must be cut open

    Originally posted by Neil.Bhujbal View Post
    I doubt the breath ability will go up by many folds. It will surely go up but not by many folds.
    You can even increase the breath ability of stock filter by revising the air intake route & it will be similar to what you will get using this zens filter.
    I had used this air filter on Swift DDIS with revised air intake & it had shelved off 1 & 1.5 seconds in each gears..need not mention the other advantages.
    If you look at the stock Karizma filter and the ZEN filter, the first distinct difference is the size of it, and also the pleats in the paper. The OE ZMA filter has many close folds ,almost sticking to each other,which itself restricts air flow even when slightly loaded with dust.In the ZEN filter the pleats are wide apart allowing larger square area which is open to air.Inlet re-rooting either before or after filter is not required...there is a resonator in inlet to take care of resonance of inlet air pulses.

    Originally posted by acs1207 View Post
    Intake sound will change , but not that much I guess since the filter would still be in the air box .
    I doubt whether you can do anything to the stock exhaust to make it louder without disassembling it -
    Once you cut it open, you can do as you please . See pic below.The 1st one is from Karizma manual uploaded by psr
    No difference in air inlet noise and, yes none of the Allenkey screws will give any access to the exhaust inner..To access either catcon or the baffles the exhaust must be cut open .
    Originally posted by acs1207 View Post
    Have plans on drilling holes on outer cover of air box and also fitting wire-mesh/plastic-mesh to existing intake to filter out bigger particles from getting in and covering the filter's surface area .

    @ psr ,
    sir, how many km will the zen filter last before we have to change it ?
    How many km have you run your bike with it
    and what is it's condition now ?

    Anybody ever thought of forced air induction for ZMA R ?
    No need to drill holes in the airbox..this had already been discussed earlier in this thread.After fitting in the ZEN filter securely without leaks,use it like stock air filter without any other mod.
    I had done 2,300 Kms and yet to take it out and clean it...I live in the heart of city in a place close to the arterial road connected to National highway and a Large Bus stand..Last week the air pollution board's check certified my area as the most polluted in the city...but the bike still doing well..will open the air filter sometime later to-day and post a picture later.
    Last edited by psr; 10-29-2011, 11:14 AM.
    When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

    Comment


    • Guys here is the Karizma Spare Parts Price List Google Doc,When you open it it will sent a request to me,I will accept it.

      Suggestions and comments invited.
      Last edited by Aneesh@4GHz; 10-29-2011, 11:04 AM.

      Comment


      • Calculated the total cash spend on maintenance of my bike from the first day of purchase and it totaled to 9900rs,major expense was Disc Pad 2200rs and Engine overhaul 2000rs. Balance was oil changes,services,some part replacements on accidents etc. Excluding current accident.
        Last edited by Aneesh@4GHz; 10-29-2011, 11:20 AM.

        Comment


        • Originally posted by acs1207 View Post
          Intake sound will change , but not that much I guess since the filter would still be in the air box .
          I doubt whether you can do anything to the stock exhaust to make it louder without disassembling it -
          Once you cut it open, you can do as you please . See pic below.The 1st one is from Karizma manual uploaded by psr



          OMG, no no not so much tools with me. Great mechanical project that would be, cutting and drilling and welding. Thanks by the way.
          I was just wondering if I can remove some DB killer ...??? (Will it work?)

          Originally posted by Above_All View Post
          It is a made in germany the printing there is as " Designed by Philips in Germany , Made in Germany " & the dealer from where i purchased it is a regulated dealer .
          About the point it tending to be yellow actually the thing is in first couple of days after installing it & using i think it is white one next to the hid's but when i saw some cars having a pure white light ( not hid ) i got in mind that my bulb is yellowish white not a pure white
          Don't worry bro, this depends also on the cover(glass or plastic cover) over the headlight. Me and my bro both installed the same bulb(Philips Xtreme 55/60 w) and his bulb was appearing to be more "white" than me, later I inspected that his headlight cover was very new and clean compared to mine as his bike was relatively new. I washed my cover many times but could never match the "white" quality of his bulb. But its okay

          Originally posted by psr View Post
          Bike feels free to rev and gives better FE, without much heating up.AFR screw 3.5 to 4 turns depending on the set up you want..3.5 turns moderate acceleration with 32 Kms city FE. 4 turns for good acceleration with 31 Kms FE.

          Hey Sir, this always worries me. Suppose, initially the screw is set to any position and as you said I turn it 3.5 turns clockwise/anticlockwise I don't know, but then how would I know that it is at the same position where you said it to be? Like, I want to ask that you don't know the initial position of that screw in my bike then how can you suggest that 3.5 turns will give the same position and hence same effects as that of your bike.
          Similarly, how to adjust the AFR screw to what it should be (neither lean nor rich)? I mean it should not be the Universal rule that "2.5 turns" will give it, but it should depend on the initial position na? How to know it and then adjust it accordingly?

          Yes but you have to wait for Fevibond to dry fully otherwise the suction inside the Air Box when you accelerate, will pull the glue in..which is why I used Hot glue ,which heals immediately.

          For the petrol tank cap there is a vent hole to be cleaned..
          It is the hole at the lower left corner in the Petrol cap..After removing the white one way valve in tank cap you can blow air through it and see if it comes out through the lower hole in tank cap.



          Oh thanks for this info .. really I was looking for it.

          Intake sound does not change..but the ZEN MPFI filter makes air breathing better than stock.....none of the Allenkey screws will give any access to the exhaust inner..To access either catcon or the baffles the exhaust must be cut open

          Okay

          If you look at the stock Karizma filter and the ZEN filter, the first distinct difference is the size of it, and also the pleats in the paper. The OE ZMA filter has many close folds ,almost sticking to each other,which itself restricts air flow even when slightly loaded with dust.In the ZEN filter the pleats are wide apart allowing larger square area which is open to air.Inlet re-rooting either before or after filter is not required...there is a resonator in inlet to take care of resonance of inlet air pulses.


          No difference in air inlet noise and, yes none of the Allenkey screws will give any access to the exhaust inner..To access either catcon or the baffles the exhaust must be cut open .

          No need to drill holes in the airbox..this had already been discussed earlier in this thread.After fitting in the ZEN filter securely without leaks,use it like stock air filter without any other mod.
          I had done 2,300 Kms and yet to take it out and clean it...I live in the heart of city in a place close to the arterial road connected to National highway and a Large Bus stand..Last week the air pollution board's check certified my area as the most polluted in the city...but the bike still doing well..will open the air filter sometime later to-day and post a picture later.
          Don't you think Sir, that this filter is allowing impurities to the carb more than the stock filter?

          Comment


          • Originally posted by sunny_ View Post
            Hey Sir, this always worries me. Suppose, initially the screw is set to any position and as you said I turn it 3.5 turns clockwise/anticlockwise I don't know, but then how would I know that it is at the same position where you said it to be? Like, I want to ask that you don't know the initial position of that screw in my bike then how can you suggest that 3.5 turns will give the same position and hence same effects as that of your bike.
            Similarly, how to adjust the AFR screw to what it should be (neither lean nor rich)? I mean it should not be the Universal rule that "2.5 turns" will give it, but it should depend on the initial position na? How to know it and then adjust it accordingly?

            Don't you think Sir, that this filter is allowing impurities to the carb more than the stock filter?
            I think you are more confused than before.....to know the present /original setting of AFR spray WD40 on the AFR screw,wait 15 to 30 minutes and see if the screw turns without trouble.Then turn the screw CLOCKWISE GENTLY,and keep count of the number of turns, till it stops and cannot be turned further.The number of turns you counted now is the actual setting you have on the bike...make a note of it now someplace safe.From this fully tight position turn the screw ANTI CLOCKWISE to the same number of turns as before,and you are back to your previous/stock setting..simple isn't it !
            How do you presume that the ZEN paper filter allows impurities into the air inlet ?The design of stock ZMA filter is such that it is small in size and the pleats are sitting on each other thereby presenting a closed surface to air inlet. The ZEN filter is larger and the pleats are more open to air inlet and so allows BETTER permeability..This filter is made of paper pulp which is what the best air filters are made of...and meant for a 1,000 cc engine...or 4cylinders of 250cc each..imagine what will happen to engine if the air filter were to allow more dust in to the engine.
            Request you to do some reading on the basics of Carburetor,and Air filter types and their filtering efficiency....
            Last edited by psr; 10-29-2011, 01:36 PM.
            When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

            Comment


            • Originally posted by psr View Post

              If you look at the stock Karizma filter and the ZEN filter, the first distinct difference is the size of it, and also the pleats in the paper. The OE ZMA filter has many close folds ,almost sticking to each other,which itself restricts air flow even when slightly loaded with dust.In the ZEN filter the pleats are wide apart allowing larger square area which is open to air.Inlet re-rooting either before or after filter is not required...there is a resonator in inlet to take care of resonance of inlet air pulses.
              Correct Sir, but what i feel is the mileage wont increase until the bikes running lean. The air flow will surely be better at high RPM's due to the better flowing characteristics of the zens filter.

              Even with the resonator at its place wont changing the intake route which has many tuns & twists improve the flow of air ?? (keeping the stock air filter)

              The choice totally depends on what one actually wants out of his bike/engine & at what cost.

              Originally posted by acs1207 View Post

              Well , I guess I was using 'poetic license'!!

              How do you suppose we can revise the air intake route ? As per my view , we can drill small holes on the outer cover of the air box ( I had suggested this once here itself but got near zero support ). The air intake route as it is now is the reason for almost silent intake sound.

              If we get more breath-ability then I guess we can get more mileage or we can get more pick up/top end with existing mileage .

              Have plans on drilling holes on outer cover of air box and also fitting wire-mesh/plastic-mesh to existing intake to filter out bigger particles from getting in and covering the filter's surface area .

              Anybody ever thought of forced air induction for ZMA R ?
              For revising the air intake you need to take many points into consideration.
              Trust me but drilling holes wont do any good

              You will get slightly more air inside the engine & the mileage will increase due to lean mixture formation (not healthy for the engine in long run)

              Forced induction not possible.Even if experimenting the cost will land up in the price range of say ninja 250 or more.

              I would like to know your goal with the engine first & your budget ?
              Last edited by Neil.Bhujbal; 10-29-2011, 03:10 PM.

              Comment


              • Originally posted by Neil.Bhujbal View Post
                Correct Sir, but what i feel is the mileage wont increase until the bikes running lean. The air flow will surely be better at high RPM's due to the better flowing characteristics of the zens filter.

                Even with the resonator at its place wont changing the intake route which has many tuns & twists improve the flow of air ?? (keeping the stock air filter)

                The choice totally depends on what one actually wants out of his bike/engine & at what cost.
                I had gone for the ZEN air filter because the OE was not available...FE was not the reason..
                Regarding intake route and length, ZMA has a slightly circuitous route to take advantage of it's low end torque. A longer inlet gives better low end,and will prevent throttle surges during closing of throttle...the Helmholtz resonator takes care of standing wave pattern to give more linear acceleration.
                Most commuter oriented vehicles ,looking for good low to mid end and hence better FE always use longer inlet manifold with Resonator....
                When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

                Comment


                • @ALL ,
                  I had noticed Another difference between the older and present 2011 ZMA in the RR unit..The present RR looks bigger and runs cooler than the older smaller version..here is a pic of the 2011 RR in ZMA-R.
                  When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

                  Comment


                  • Here is a picture of the ZEN air filter in my ZMA after 2,300 Kms..
                    front view..

                    Back view

                    Intake area


                    Inside box..note the clean inner against the dusty and dirty inlet to the right side...The Zen filter is doing an excellent job..Note also there is no blow back oil at the floor of the box...probably due to the 20W40 oil I use.
                    Last edited by psr; 10-29-2011, 04:42 PM.
                    When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by psr View Post
                      I had gone for the ZEN air filter because the OE was not available...FE was not the reason..
                      Regarding intake route and length, ZMA has a slightly circuitous route to take advantage of it's low end torque. A longer inlet gives better low end,and will prevent throttle surges during closing of throttle...the Helmholtz resonator takes care of standing wave pattern to give more linear acceleration.
                      Most commuter oriented vehicles ,looking for good low to mid end and hence better FE always use longer inlet manifold with Resonator....
                      And i thought the zen filter was being used for increase in performance

                      Well i have done my research on the intakes but not as deep as you.Variable lengths & resonance do help in filling air inside the cylinder during suction stroke.Now time to see how it helps with linear acceleration.

                      Would like to have any related links if possible.

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by Neil.Bhujbal View Post
                        And i thought the zen filter was being used for increase in performance

                        Well i have done my research on the intakes but not as deep as you.Variable lengths & resonance do help in filling air inside the cylinder during suction stroke.Now time to see how it helps with linear acceleration.

                        Would like to have any related links if possible.
                        From my experience in doing some design and implementation of Resonators, in vehicles the most near correct resonator design(for low RPM.) for closed volume control was equal to 30% of total volume of cc required to fill the space....for instance if there is an engine of 1500cc with longer inlet manifold, then the starting point for resonator volume will be 500cc plus or minus 10%..for higher RPM the resonator will be smaller in volume to suit the specific resonance....Resonators basically cancel out strong resonance caused by bouncing waves from sudden closure of intake valves during intake cycle,by absorbing the return energy,and adding it in the next intake event to give better volumetric efficiency.This effectively cancels null points at certain RPMs and actually give better cylinder filling.This is why in most naturally aspirated modern cars there will be more than one resonator in the inlet manifold.

                        Last edited by psr; 10-29-2011, 06:15 PM.
                        When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by acs1207 View Post
                          Till the RX gets really started on it's 2nd gear the Kiney has advantage due to it's vario drive - that's what I heard .

                          Yup, comparing the kiney to my friends stock(only mod done was a rebadge to RX135) RX100 4 Speed. The kiney's got way better initial than RX, but in the mid end RX gains, but finally when we come to the top end its like our ZMA, kiney wins again cause it never stops climbing.


                          Intake sound will change , but not that much I guess since the filter would still be in the air box .

                          There'll be an overall change in intake sound. Cause once me and Aneesh bro, powered on my ride with the filter in place but without the filter cap. The bike sounded way way louder and wilder.
                          But that once again brings us back to the basic question. Where does the sound come from??? The carb or the filter????


                          Anybody ever thought of forced air induction for ZMA R ?

                          If you'r talking about something related to YRCS, then I've been thinking about since the first day I laid eyes on fazeroid's Fazer, when I asked him what it stood for, then the noob said it stood for Yamaha Racing...Something..Something..
                          Originally posted by psr View Post
                          Yes but you have to wait for Fevibond to dry fully otherwise the suction inside the Air Box when you accelerate, will pull the glue in..which is why I used Hot glue ,which heals immediately.

                          Sir, is there any chance for the hot glue to melt away and get in the carb, when the bikes real hot????


                          For the petrol tank cap there is a vent hole to be cleaned..
                          It is the hole at the lower left corner in the Petrol cap..After removing the white one way valve in tank cap you can blow air through it and see if it comes out through the lower hole in tank cap.

                          Sir, today we rode to college without putting on the fuel cap, as an experiment, but to my surprise even then the bike stalled. So I guess the tank cap is'nt to be blamed. The bike misses a few beats in the initial part... Mid end's good.. But when we come closer to high end 5k+ the engine stalls.. Or even while going steady within 4~5K the engine stalls.

                          And sir, we're planning to do a complete engine/transmission overhaul, so we're thinking on replacing all the less durable parts like piston rings,gaskets,washers,oring's,seals and everything including the clutch plates or friction plates or whatever its called, even the thrust/spline washers as you once said. So sir, can you give me the names of all the so called parts I should order. I know some say its only necessary to replace the broken parts, but we're doing this so that there wont be any near problems with the ride for atleast 5 more years.
                          Replies in BOLD, and thanks everyone for the speedy reply.
                          Motorcycling Experience:
                          2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
                          2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
                          2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
                          2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
                          2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
                          2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!

                          The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
                          Adios Comrades!
                          A.P. 2018

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by ashwinprakas
                            Where does the sound come from??? The carb or the filter????
                            Mainly from the carb and a small proportion from the filter.

                            Ashwin,You checked the price list?

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by acs1207 View Post
                              Till the RX gets really started on it's 2nd gear the Kiney has advantage due to it's vario drive - that's what I heard .
                              Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post
                              Yup, comparing the kiney to my friends stock(only mod done was a rebadge to RX135) RX100 4 Speed. The kiney's got way better initial than RX, but in the mid end RX gains, but finally when we come to the top end its like our ZMA, kiney wins again cause it never stops climbing.
                              Oh nice to hear the Kiney thingi stories here. You have a very good sense of humor.
                              RX100 1996 | Karizma 2004 | Karizma-R 2011 | RXZ 1999 | RX 135 1998 | RX 100 1993 | CBF150 2005 - 2011

                              2012 - Meghamalai | Kuttralam | 2011 Ooty | Munnar | 2010 Point Calimere | Horsley Hills | Yercaud

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post
                                Mainly from the carb and a small proportion from the filter.

                                Ashwin,You checked the price list?
                                Please change privacy setting.
                                Motorcycling Experience:
                                2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
                                2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
                                2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
                                2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
                                2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
                                2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!

                                The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
                                Adios Comrades!
                                A.P. 2018

                                Comment

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