I want everything to be perfect bro, thats why I keep confirming again and again, but am still confused abut cutting the clamps. Hows cutting the claps going to prevent it from touching the mud guard???
Cause as far as I can see, the U clamp's no where near the front mud guard.

In the pic it's nowhere near the mudguard , but it will be when riding , if you happen to hit an irregularity on the road and the front wheel and the mud guard jumps up . And then you wouldn't want the U clamp edges protruding like this (see pic) . After fitting the clamp , the extra length of the clamp protruding outside the nuts () are cut off , right ?
BTW how to insert a pic from my computer in the message instead of as thumbnail?

hey zma owners,
whats your remedy for hard to harder to hardest gear shifts?
asking for a friend's zma, who gearshift is pathetic..
done close to 5k on the odo, the bike runs on the engine oil provided by the HH service centre! everything stock!
already have done those 7 free services, but the gearshift never improves!


also, the bike sort of is unstable beyond 80kmph!

kindly suggest solutions for these problems!

regards,
kshitij!

Yup bro, thats what I was talking about.

And to directly post pics, upload them to picasa/tiny pic, then post their link.

Upshift normally, but pay special attention while shifting from 1~2.
While downshifting its recomended to blip the throttle and release clutch partally.
If your planning to come to a halt, downshift while the bikes still in motion.
And only downshift in accordance with the speed. Cause if you'r riding at 80kmph and suddenly downshift to 1st gear, even without releasing the clutch you'll hear a strange noise like you've but a stone inside a blender(kr.kr..kr..kr..kr..kr).


Other than the above, the bikes uber cool. And what do yo mean by unstable beyond 80???

thanks....

Change Engine oil ASAP to any JASO MA2 certified 20w40 Mineral oil...after 50 kms things will improve.(Motul 3000 4t ,Gulf Pride 4 T plus,Shell AX series)
Ask the SVC to open swing arm mount and lube with Lithium based grease for the swing arm bushes..and ensure 25 psi tire pressure upfront....Check and lube steering stem cone ,both upper and lower ball bearing sets.

Sir, since he said hard gearshifts, wouldnt it be better if he went with 10W30??

Cause when I had the above issue, It went away as soon as I shifted to 10W30.
Though am clueless about the front vibe issue, guess 20W40's the remedy for vibes.


And bought the CBF125's (with engine guard) crash guard.
Its now with my mech, he said he'll be free in the evening, so he'll fix it then. So guess I'll be having to say bye bye to the reflectors.

Everything he has said above. Plus throttle blipping and clutch free play adjustment. Here's a post which shows what free play is and how much it should be - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tml#post652531. You can do it yourself, the guidance for clutch freeplay adjustment has been given in the manual, all you need is couple of spanners to loosen/adjust those two bolts you see on the clutch cable in the second picture, and set the right play (spanner size 10 and 13 I guess, not sure).

And I am not sure if you paid attention to the throttle blipping, suggested by Ashwin. Before you downshift, pull the clutch and give a very brief throttle and then downshift while the RPM has gone up. Works wonders and makes the hardshift a feather shift. Just experiment a bit more to find the right rpms for downshifting from a specific gear. If I am shifting from 5to4, 4to3, 3to2 an rpm of 3k is the sweetspot for me, for 2to1 I go down to 1.5-2k rpm, and if I am higher I hear a small thud.

Same goes for upshifting, except that you dont really need to blip the throttle as you already are trying to go higher. So just make sure you shift the throttle at healthy rpms. That is, if you try upshifting 3to4 when the bike is doing 2k rpm, it HAS TO BE hard, since its not the correct rpm for shifting. Give it enough rev and shifts become smooth. Remember not to over rev it though.

i can totally concur that shifting to 20w40 makes not only the gears ultra smooth but the engine as a whole

changed the oil to castrol active 4t (was sure that its original) from power1 15w40 and immediately the bike felt smooth and the engine sound too became growly!!

thanks again to psr sir for the advice

does keeping air pressure in the front slightly higer to about 28psi help in reducing handle shakes at speeds about 35kmph, coz the handle tends to shake a bit at those speeds.

Glad my opinion is useful ...The front tire of 2.75 width is already not good for grip..upgrading to soft compound 3.00 /18 will greatly improve the front end stability under hard braking.
Keeping higher than 25 psi in front tire is not advisable, since it will become bouncy, and road grip will become less..
For handle shaking at specific speeds, check tire wobble or Rim bend.

Peedo needle error.

Hi,

Yesterday onwards my bike is behaving strange. I replaced the battery to Amaron MF 5Ah 2 months back. Yesterday suddenly the tripmeter was reset to zero, the self-start ceased to work and also the rpm & the speedo needle is working diifferently. I understand that the trip-meter & self-start problem is due to some battery issue, so need to get the battery checked. But about the RPM-Speedo needle, what can be the cause. The needles are functioning freely.

Gosh, its been 4 months I have got the pre-used ZMA and since then every week some or the other issues are raised.

Please help me.

AFAIK Karizma speedo needs battery power for functioning properly,Both rpm,speed and the digital one needs battery power,Other wise every thing will be dead,IS 5Ah causing these problems? Why did you get a 5Ah instead of 7Ah ???

Just what i wanted to know! I was going to change the front tyre on my bike yesterday. wanted to try the 3.00x18 moto-D as i prefer deeper tread and the design. I just put a 4.00 m45 on the rear. Getting a m45 for the front will be quite tough here in mlore. What are your thoughts on the same?

The 5AH battery is not the correct battery for the ZMA, with high charge currents...most probably the 5 AH battery is cooked by now.
The RPM and Speedo are both Electronic Analogue meters, and are dependent on the battery's steady supply...with battery being bad the pulses after 3 phase RR is full of spikes and not pure DC...this is triggering the meters to indicate erratic readings.