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**acs1207** · 08-16-2011, 09:31 AM

Originally posted by hansa_tejas View Post

Ok let me introduce myself first, im tejas doing my graduation from bangalore. Ive just got into bikes saybout a year back or so, but i just love bikes. I own a karizma R currently.

Warm welcome , Tejas !!

Originally posted by psr View Post

Because you have contributed more and have more than a hundred posts ...

Ah . . OK

**psr** · 08-16-2011, 10:24 AM

Originally posted by Blumarine005 View Post

I have changed my rear tyres to Zapper Q 110/90-18 a few days back. Suddenly I noticed yesterday that my tyre was rubbing against some part on the right side(on the exhaust's side). What can be the reason and what would be the solution. I am worried to take my out .

As you upsize tires errors in fitting back wheel will be noticed more .......but 110/90 18 is manageable in ZMA as many have done it..If the tire rubs on the Right side, ie., exhaust side then it is rubbing against Rear Brake Stay ...but wait, the tire is not fitted in absolute center which is why it is rubbing on the brake stay..Your Tire had been fitted a little angled towards the right hand side..
Look at the aligning marks on the chain adjusters on the swing arm end.....both left and right side...they should be the same.

**kariznin** · 08-16-2011, 11:12 AM

Originally posted by Blumarine005 View Post

I have changed my rear tyres to Zapper Q 110/90-18 a few days back. Suddenly I noticed yesterday that my tyre was rubbing against some part on the right side(on the exhaust's side). What can be the reason and what would be the solution. I am worried to take my out .

I am also using the same in my 2005 ZMA. The link rod definitively needed to be bent a little to get it right, else everything was fine, no issue with the chain guard & all.

**asif** · 08-16-2011, 04:31 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

If it is varying engine RPM even when engine is hot, then it is mostly due to air leak in intake system.....starting from the inlet rubber hose connecting air filter to carb, to Carb insulator crack to carb vacum connection to air valve,to leaky AFR screw.
Only a systematic approach ,and trouble shooting can find and solve the problem.

I have changed every inlet rubber on the bike, also changed the carb recently. The fluctuation in rpm is there but not like before. Its only reduced a bit. Am planning to swap a few things on the bike and see if it makes a difference.

Question : i have not till now done anything with the TPFC switch, any suggestion or recommendations.

**psr** · 08-16-2011, 04:42 PM

Karizma Console...

Here are the pictures of ZMA console...
1. The external appearance after removing front fairing..note the connector to the RIGHT...this connects all the info and voltage for the console..

The Second wire RED with Black streak on the connector, is the ALWAYS ON 12 Volts which powers the Display IC and it's RAM..The rubber shroud of the connector is pulled back and can be seen in the lower right side on the cable.

The complete console opened...front view

The Reverse Printed circuit board side...

The transistor pointed by RED ARROW, connects the ALWAYS on 12V to the rest of the circuit.

The RED RECTANGLE marked IC is the LCD data decoder cum driver..This IC contains all data relevant to the LCD display....

I did not try to trace the circuit since I had no time and need the bike for use....The circuit board is double sided and all devices are SMD...
Now upto the Techies to do the needful for preventing reset of clock and trip values.

**Brat** · 08-16-2011, 04:52 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

Here are the pictures of ZMA console...

Awesome details..! How i wish HH used EPROM to store the ODO reading

**psr** · 08-16-2011, 04:52 PM

Originally posted by asif View Post

I have changed every inlet rubber on the bike, also changed the carb recently. The fluctuation in rpm is there but not like before. Its only reduced a bit. Am planning to swap a few things on the bike and see if it makes a difference.

Question : i have not till now done anything with the TPFC switch, any suggestion or recommendations.

The TPFC is a switch which changes position ,with throttle,as it is mechanically connected to the throttle butterfly.This enables the CDI to change between different Ignition timings as per throttle position...A loose contact or non working will only mean the Ignition timing stuck at a specific position...Did you check CHOKE circuit for proper seating of inner valve(Choke stub) ?

**psr** · 08-16-2011, 05:09 PM

Originally posted by Brat View Post

Awesome details..! How i wish HH used EPROM to store the ODO reading

One way to do the mod is to cut the Red with black streak and insert a IN4007 diode in series and put a 1000 MFD 25 Volts capacitor after diode. In the Connector the wire next to the 2nd wire is Black and is the negative...so a capacitor between the 2nd and 3rd connector pin with + of cap going to pin 2 and -ve going to pin 3 may be attempted.

**Only Amit...** · 08-16-2011, 05:23 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Dont worry bro, shit happens. And btw, is the AFR screw sold individually or should we buy the whole carb.?

Originally posted by psr View Post

I had been warning about this happening in previous posts.....The AFR screw alone is not available...Unfortunately for Keihin Carb no spares are available..Try getting what you need from the junkyard recovery,or second hand parts market..a new carb costs 6,000/-..If you need to change with NEW carb, change it to BS29 Mikuni which will give equally good performance and all spares are available...costs 2,400/- From Bajaj.

Originally posted by prashk View Post

Amit, welcome to the club of "AFR-screwless-guys"

I have not had that screw since day one, which is about 4-5 months ago. And still havent been able to get one from Sai service center or Niki motors, doubt if they'll ever get it. Successfully running the bike using an ordinary nut and bolt. My mechanic did it for me, though changing the lean/richness isnt that easy as a OE screw. Get your bike to a two wheeler mech, and ask him to fix a screw/bolt and tune as per your liking.

Guys, I got the AFR screw on the same day in 4-5 hrs.Results of taking to the higher officials

. But still I couldn't ride to yercaud...wondering why!!!
Crushed my right hand middle fingure while greasing my chain on satday night.almost into 2 pieces...oouch!!!

**psr** · 08-16-2011, 06:02 PM

Originally posted by Only Amit... View Post

Guys, I got the AFR screw on the same day in 4-5 hrs.Results of taking to the higher officials

. But still I couldn't ride to yercaud...wondering why!!!
Crushed my right hand middle fingure while greasing my chain on satday night.almost into 2 pieces...oouch!!!

Amit I am happy you could get the AFR screw.

But very unhappy to note that your finger got crushed.

..I guess you did the greasing very close to the sprocket while turning the wheel,and the finger got caught in between the sprocket and chain....a very painful injury..Never use the middle finger,since it is a bit weak,and the forefinger can resist the sidewise pull of the chain,better.
Keep checking the injury every day for proper healing,and monitor for any Fever...
Take care,get well soon.

**ashwinprakas** · 08-16-2011, 06:55 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

Amit I am happy you could get the AFR screw.

But very unhappy to note that your finger got crushed.

..I guess you did the greasing very close to the sprocket while turning the wheel,and the finger got caught in between the sprocket and chain....a very painful injury..Never use the middle finger,since it is a bit weak,and the forefinger can resist the sidewise pull of the chain,better.
Keep checking the injury every day for proper healing,and monitor for any Fever...
Take care,get well soon.

Yup... MIddle finger lacks reflex..

One of my friend lost the first block of his middle finger while pouring oil into his P180.

And has anyone observed a leak in their silencer, near the junction. You'll only feel it while accelerating.

And today opened the carb cover and tightened the accelerator cables, and surprisingly got rid of the acceleration slack, guess I was simply blaming 3.5 turns for it.

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 08-16-2011, 07:06 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

May be tire was not fitted in bike properly....or earlier ZMA had narrower swing arm mount

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

I just did below 60 odd kms and mostly in traffic, I felt the bike grown taller?

, also found myself coping with the change. It would be fair to give a report after doing on highway.

Yeah bro,Guess its about an inch,Waiting for your reply!

@Prashk:- I'm retaining the front as of now. I don't want to go for 3.00 in the front. Possibly steering might not be easy, my thoughts.

Originally posted by onlinesatish View Post

M45 was a good fit when i got it like some 8-10k kms back. But i had a problem when i replaced the chain kit. It started to rub on the swingarm, chain guard and link guard.

How it touches chain guard and link rod at same time?

Originally posted by Brat View Post

How come everyone's getting the 4.00 section of the M45? 3.75 section would be a direct fit and hassle free. Its lighter compared to the 4.00 section and does not cause as much relative change to your final drive ratio...

M45 is available in 2.75,3.0,3.25 and 4.0 Size,3.75 is not available and 4.0 * 18 is just 1kg more than the stock zapper 100/90-18.

Originally posted by Blumarine005 View Post

I have changed my rear tyres to Zapper Q 110/90-18 a few days back. Suddenly I noticed yesterday that my tyre was rubbing against some part on the right side(on the exhaust's side). What can be the reason and what would be the solution. I am worried to take my out .

Originally posted by psr View Post

As you upsize tires errors in fitting back wheel will be noticed more .......but 110/90 18 is manageable in ZMA as many have done it..If the tire rubs on the Right side, ie., exhaust side then it is rubbing against Rear Brake Stay ...but wait, the tire is not fitted in absolute center which is why it is rubbing on the brake stay..Your Tire had been fitted a little angled towards the right hand side..
Look at the aligning marks on the chain adjusters on the swing arm end.....both left and right side...they should be the same.

I had seen karizma with 130/80-18,But will rub under the seat if there is a pillion .

+1^^ Check distance between Linkage Rod and Tire!

Originally posted by kariznin View Post

I am also using the same in my 2005 ZMA. The link rod definitively needed to be bent a little to get it right, else everything was fine, no issue with the chain guard & all.

Same as mine.

Originally posted by Only Amit... View Post

Crushed my right hand middle fingure while greasing my chain on satday night.almost into 2 pieces...oouch!!!

Sad to know that,This is the second person having injured while playing with chain.Why putting finger near sprockets?Applying in the middle part of the chain and rotate for further applying,it would be a good method ,right?

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 08-16-2011, 07:11 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

And has anyone observed a leak in their silencer, near the junction. You'll only feel it while accelerating.

I think its a drain hole for letting the water out entering the silencer.

**ashwinprakas** · 08-16-2011, 07:24 PM

Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post

I think its a drain hole for letting the water out entering the silencer.

Hehe.. Thanks bro. Was thinking about taking it to SVC.

You saved me a bucket load of embarrassment.

**abhash** · 08-16-2011, 08:24 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

Here are the pictures of ZMA console...

wow psr dissected his speedo console for us

ideats at the asc are fu ckin scared of even unscrewing it!!!
after an heavy accident by clock setting button wasnt working as it was not making contact, i had to literally beg them to just take out the cover and realign it

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