Smoking rubber...

You have a good thought. The current to the display by itself would be marginal. What's important is to ensure that the positive contact to the memory from the capacitor is constant. Do you plan to hook up the 12V rechargeable in the place of this?

This would pretty much be the only way to avoid the memory from getting reset in the event of complete battery discharge due to starter motor cranking away all the juice.

If so, Need to find a method to supply charge to the 12V battery, it cannot take supply from the on-board battery since there's the risk of the main battery discharging when idle (which could very well be the root cause for the starter issue) and unless the 12V for the memory is hooked up to the main battery, the alternator needs to charge the 12V smaller 12V as well. Even if the display cuts out, it shouldn't really matter as long as the memory's current circuit is kept open to the smaller 12V in this case.

Just an additional suggestion from my side, if you are quite serious about getting this done, i suggest you include a voltage sensor relay, it may help monitor line voltage and provides a relay contact when the line reaches a predetermined level in usual practice, in your case - you can probably use it to sense the drop-out level (say, around 11V from the main battery) and open the circuit to the 12V battery.

Keep us posted if you happen to get this working!

WOW !you have the insight into what is needed..PSR not needed.

He really smoked rubber
Yes you are right about the means of getting things sorted out for the problem....
Yes but the trip meter and the clock memory are in RAM(Random Acess Memory) that is Volatile, while the total kms is stored in resident ROM(Read Only Memory) and is non volatile.In the present setup I don't think there will be a separate voltage for the RAM memory .The logic voltage for the chip will be + 5 Volts.
I think Two CR2032 Lithium battery in series to give 6 Volts and a diode to block reverse flow into system,will give adequate backup for at least 1 year....But this will mean opening up the console, Noting and understanding the circuit diagram,and doing the mod....only feasible for techies as DIY.

PSR is always needed here.

Thanks for the nice thought...so whose ZMA is going to be the Guinea pig for the console experiment ?

Sir you ridden with M45? Hows Sriram Bro?

I did not ride Mr.Sriram's bike, so i don't know....but from what he told me ,He is smoking rubber and liking it...But the stock ones on my bike are no good,as even at 25 Kmph on a sharp turn the rear went sliding...scary, but people on the road thought I was showing off .

Aha.. So he started loving it!

Exactly,Same happens to me sometimes while accelerating on neutral gear during traffic jams because of false shift.


@ Sriram Bro

Waiting for your review on M45 .

Guess I'll start with mine . Could save an awful lot of time and energy if some one has a wiring diagram of the ZMA R .
Also if someone has the owner's manual please let me have a soft copy . If some one's willing to loan the hard copy , I'm willing to scan and upload it for the forum .

Putting a battery in the +12V line of console is a bad idea, since till 2011 all Karizma's have their console back lights also " ON " when switch is turned on and supply comes to the console......May be some time during the week I may open up the console for getting a clearer picture on what is and is not possible.

Am not sure how many power lines go into the console - that's why I'd requested for a wiring diagram . But if my line of thought is correct , then there must be a + line going into the console just for the purpose of keeping the RAM alive . It must be alive even if the key is turned off to prevent the reading from resetting . (Like the memory line to the CD player in a car which saves settings and tuned stations ) It's that line I want to identify . Once it is located , the battery is to be connected in parallel and a diode is to be connected just before that point ( for the diode to be connected , the wire has to be spliced).
The problem is I have to lug all necessary items from a strand of wire to the pipe wrench from the first floor to the ground floor every time I want to do something on my bike or car . . . . and back if I have to take a break for some time . It is definitely a put off .
Anyway I'll try my best to check it out - and if anyone else does it before I do ,I'd be happy .

Congrats! Which tyre is on the front? It would be best if you change both together or almost together. Did you have to bend the linkage rod?(you'd better if you're retaining the chain guard). Aneesh had to, and so did I, but I realized the need a after one week of the tyre change. At the time of the tyre change all was well without any mods, but after about 5 days I started noticing the sound of chainguard touching the tyre.

Same thing used to happen to me before I switched to M45s. Now I find myself counter steering and leaning like crazy, and take as many turns as possible.

Lights for ZMA

I went in to buy Phillips Xtreme Vision yesterday. The shopkeeper quoted Rs.800 for a pair. Also he said it throws yellowish light. I am in confusion whether Xtreme vision gives yellowish light or white light?

I am looking for throw of light of same colour to match with my pilot lamps(in the avatar pic)

Just thought not get reminded of the nightmare I went through on Saturday. The guy who plonked the tyre (from where I bought) did not align the tyre properly. So got it rubbed on the chain guard. Brat who was with me, alerted and got the chain guard removed from road side shop. PSR adviced and even came up with innovative idea and fixed the issue. Now bike runs with barely 2-3mm gap on both chain drive and linking rod (brake). Was all day on RX, will let you know the report shortly.

PSR:- I missed to check ZMA rear tire on the right side if it has any rub after the run. Also, got my RX serviced and now smooth.

First let me know your requirement.

Xtreme Vision is not blue to match your pilot lamp.
Xtreme vision is white on the low beam and has a yellow tinge on the high beam, this is best for rain or misty conditions.
The throw is excellent and would light up the road. I have not used Osram NB or Philips Xtreme power, so cannot give you a comparison.

You've got PM..

( BTW how come I'm "Senior Member " now??)