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**asif** · 08-17-2011, 09:50 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

The TPFC is a switch which changes position ,with throttle,as it is mechanically connected to the throttle butterfly.This enables the CDI to change between different Ignition timings as per throttle position...A loose contact or non working will only mean the Ignition timing stuck at a specific position...Did you check CHOKE circuit for proper seating of inner valve(Choke stub) ?

Thanks for the reply PSR

Do you think that the TPFC could be the culprit here.

But on the new carb i got a new switch, or is it something else that am missing out here cause everything else has been changed on the bike.

I did not get the choke stub part.

**psr** · 08-17-2011, 10:04 PM

Originally posted by asif View Post

Thanks for the reply PSR

Do you think that the TPFC could be the culprit here.

But on the new carb i got a new switch, or is it something else that am missing out here cause everything else has been changed on the bike.

I did not get the choke stub part.

When we actuate the choke a small cylinder structure on the right side(AFR screw) side of carb opens a secondary circuit for extra flow of petrol,mainly for cold starting.The front of this Cylindrical " stub " like piece will have soft rubber to seat and seal the choke circuit to prevent flow of extra petrol, when it is not needed..if the seating of this is not correct then petrol will continue to leak through and cause idling problems..and FE will go down..Part No 8.in pic

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 08-17-2011, 10:40 PM

@ SriramEfunds

Nice pics and the black straight bar is barely visible from sides.

Full Black!

**asif** · 08-17-2011, 10:57 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

When we actuate the choke a small cylinder structure on the right side(AFR screw) side of carb opens a secondary circuit for extra flow of petrol,mainly for cold starting.The front of this Cylindrical " stub " like piece will have soft rubber to seat and seal the choke circuit to prevent flow of extra petrol, when it is not needed..if the seating of this is not correct then petrol will continue to leak through and cause idling problems..and FE will go down..Part No 8.in pic

Fuel efficiency has not been good since the time i got the new carb. Also recently am noticing that the idling increase to like 0.5k-1k even on stand still and then automatically comes to normal. Will check this "stub" closely and update.

Also on the attached pic, will the bike carb act abnormal if there is something wrong with the sensor, am currently trying to tackle electrical problems. Will also be swapping the CDI with a friends to check if there is a problem.

**aarunn** · 08-18-2011, 12:34 AM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

I likey...

And can you give me a closer pic, I just want to see what they'r bolted onto.

Ashwin ...i had fixed a Dazzler s Crash Guard on my zma... its a Direct fit..no modds needed..and it saved my legs during a Crash which happened couple of months ago... the crash guard took the whole impact of the Crash... but dont have pics as i removed it soon after that incident..

these are pics taken back in January During another trip .. u can get some idea abt the crash guard from these pics

**psr** · 08-18-2011, 11:03 AM

Originally posted by asif View Post

Fuel efficiency has not been good since the time i got the new carb. Also recently am noticing that the idling increase to like 0.5k-1k even on stand still and then automatically comes to normal. Will check this "stub" closely and update.

Also on the attached pic, will the bike carb act abnormal if there is something wrong with the sensor, am currently trying to tackle electrical problems. Will also be swapping the CDI with a friends to check if there is a problem.

The problem you are telling is mostly caused by varying AF mix....see the Choke is fixed firmly on the Carb and there is free play at the choke lever on the handlebar.
Swapping CDI will not help..
The part you had indicated in the diag., is the TPS..Throttle Position Sensor,and this cannot be the cause of your present problem.

**acs1207** · 08-18-2011, 01:26 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

I am thinking of a suitable mod inside the console,and may be working on it later. Since the external connection goes through a transistor I thik there will be some current consumption. the battery orientation connection shown by you is ok,and should work...try a lead acid cell, with circuit like this...It will keep the lead acid battery charged.

Small 12V rechargeable battery is not available in my town

. The smallest one they have is the one used for emergency lights and I think it measures 2.5x3.5x5 inches . that's too big for what I have in mind . What I'm looking at is a package not bigger than 3 inches long and maybe 1 inch in dia . So I'm checking out a new possibility . I've bought a 12V cell (non-rechargeable )used for the remote of remote locking . It's about 1.5 inches in length . No amp rating is seen on it . Using this cell means a second diode to ensure no current goes into the cell . I've made a rough prototype and have to check it using a battery eliminator and a small load . Once I'm satisfied with the test results I'll try it out on the bike . Only then will I know how long the cell will last . Some pics are attached.
The prototype is bulky-if it works I'll give it a crash course for slimming !!

**Jdsouza81** · 08-18-2011, 02:31 PM

Crash guard On Karizma- r

Originally posted by aarunn View Post

Ashwin ...i had fixed a Dazzler s Crash Guard on my zma... its a Direct fit..no modds needed..and it saved my legs during a Crash which happened couple of months ago... the crash guard took the whole impact of the Crash... but dont have pics as i removed it soon after that incident..

these are pics taken back in January During another trip .. u can get some idea abt the crash guard from these pics

I have fixed a crash guard on my 2010 Karizma-r without removing the engine belly. I've not come across any issues as such. guess have been using it from last 6 months. I'm told that Honda Stunners crash guard is a direct fit

**abhash** · 08-18-2011, 03:13 PM

@aarunn

the third pic looks surreal
the sky and the clouds are amazing

which place is that??

**aarunn** · 08-18-2011, 06:44 PM

Originally posted by Jdsouza81 View Post

I have fixed a crash guard on my 2010 Karizma-r without removing the engine belly. I've not come across any issues as such. guess have been using it from last 6 months. I'm told that Honda Stunners crash guard is a direct fit

which bike s crash guard is that?

Originally posted by abhash View Post

@aarunn

the third pic looks surreal
the sky and the clouds are amazing

which place is that??

Thanks man... its Munnar

**Brat** · 08-18-2011, 07:23 PM

Originally posted by aarunn View Post

these are pics taken back in January During another trip ..

The 3rd pic is beautiful

**Jdsouza81** · 08-18-2011, 08:13 PM

Crash guard

Originally posted by aarunn View Post

which bike s crash guard is that?

the crash guard is of Honda Stunner. Its a direct fit. Will try to upload close up pics by this weekend.

**Rakeshsharma** · 08-18-2011, 08:24 PM

Originally posted by Jdsouza81 View Post

the crash guard is of Honda Stunner. Its a direct fit. Will try to upload close up pics by this weekend.

waaw tats really cool

..Even i wanted to do that w/o removing my lower engine cowl.Mine is 2011 model ZMA.Do upload pics with better view of the fits.

**ashwinprakas** · 08-18-2011, 08:26 PM

Originally posted by Jdsouza81 View Post

the crash guard is of Honda Stunner. Its a direct fit. Will try to upload close up pics by this weekend.

Which stunner, the one with or without the under cowl?

Cause when I went there and asked they said that both are different.

**Rakeshsharma** · 08-18-2011, 08:31 PM

By the way to all posters(i meant those who post msg here hehe ).This is 786th page..The HOLY page

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