So is there a negative side to it... Other than harsh vibrations @ Higher end..??

+100^^^

hehe,bro,When we shift gear ,you will hear a click sound,after releasing clutch,you again hear another click sound,Is that what you mean by double feedback? I am totally confused with your double feedback and you have to clear my doubt.

Just imagine we live in a flat...

u live in 2nd floor and me 3rd floor...

We both get on the lift.. But for you to reach ur destination the lift stops once.... But for me to reach my destination.. the lift stops twice... Got it???


Got a more simpler example...

You press calling bell... It rings once..
I press calling bell... It rings twice..

At the end of the day we both ring callingbell.... Howzzatt????

Yes,you are right,But this is not a problem,I have to wait twice time to reach the destination as the height is different,hahahaha

Will cal you in 5...

Hahaha Nice.

Your clutch can slip with acceleration

You mean, like i put it in first and then accelerate then gear slips to neutral???


If thats the case, then im already facing this issue... HH or not...

Can I use the 2T oil for this?
Just got a sachet to loosen the allenkey nuts on the tensioner.

I bought the required allenkey and the tensioner gasket. Will be getting it done now.
There have been too much confusion about how many screws are to be removed. Just confirm this:
-I will have to remove the 3 nuts off the starter motor, which can be reached from RHS and none from the LHS.

One last doubt, when I use the screwdriver and hammer to push the motor from LHS to RHS wont I be damaging the motor casing?

Spent just 10 minutes with the mech yesterday about the hard gear shift issue. He increased the pedal height a bit more and said it might decrease the shifting hardness to some extent. I test rode later, didnt quite work. Then he said I should switch to better oil next time, I just nodded, smiled and left. Later DIY with spanners sized 12 & 14, tinkered with clutch freeplay at home. First tried the 5mm freeplay, didnt help much. Then tried shorter freeplay, then a higher freeplay, nothing changed the hardness much. After several trials realized higher freeplay is the worse, as gears used to get stuck sometimes, so a big no no. Went back to 4mm free play now. Not much improvement, but I learned many things. Maybe I should just live with the hard gears. PSR sir, if you can think of something else which can be tried, please let us know.

The so called Teflon (which is actually not teflon coating at all, as the real teflon is a solid which has a melting point of above 300 degrees! :P ) sure is a ripoff. You can wax the bike yourself and do multiple layers which is wayy better than this teflon(?) coating. And it gives great deal of satisfaction when you see that great shine after the wax job you just finished on the bike. xBhp already has a lot of info shared about waxing the bike, so do look around. Btw, my Kar-R has done 20k till now, stock tires on the rear, CEAT one on the front.

Right now you are helping us, the ignorant brats learn many things, so you are teaching us, and it exercises your brain in a healthy way, and increases the number of grey cells. End of brain cell discussion.

Source - Hehehe

Bad news guys

I tried to change the tensioner gasket but failed miserably.
1. I tried to loosen the allenkey nut of the tensioner before trying to remove the starter motor. But it was so freaking tight that the alleykey tool I had lost the threads and is now kinda round in shape at both ends

2. I failed to undo even a single nut of the starter motor. Same reason, too tight. Was using one of the spanners from the bike tool kit. The fit seemed to be right but just dint work out.

After I failed with the gasket change I decided to have a look at my spark plug and heres how it looks:


Its the iridium spark plug which I had put in only about 700-900kms back. Theres no oil on it but looks kinda burned at the threads

Donno whats happening.

NGK Iridium Spark Plug and some titbits

Hi all , I'm Arun from Kannur , Kerala.
Been nearly 2 months since I acquired my 1 year/9400 kms old ZMA R.The spark plug was rusted (as seen from the outside) even when I bought it.Had to wait for 3 weeks from the day I ordered to get the NGK IRIDIUM spark plug and then it stunned me with the price . I paid Rs.650/- for it . The packing said 660/- and the dealer said he didn't get much margin on it since it was not a bulk purchase .
Anyways I'm not complaining now . The low end torque has increased substantially . Now I can go in top gear at nearly 25 kmph ( earlier it was knocking heavily if I tried it) and that's great.From speeds above 30 , I can accelerate pretty good. Sort of reminded me of the RX 100 I had years earlier . Though the feeling isn't the same , the acceleration is .
Also I had a problem with the front disc - the pad was gripping the disc and even when I moved the bike with the engine off , it squealed. One of the pads was seen to have come off from the metal base and I had the set changed-used the CBZ ones (old model). Cost-1116/- from the company showroom spares section . Now it's OK and I'm waiting for the petrol to come to reserve level so I can gauge the mileage.Earlier it was very bad - 23 to 29 kmpl. Now with these changes I hope it will increase.
One question I hope to get answered from the experienced guys is about the air screw.I havent touched it as yet.Even when
I bought the bike , I had to use the choke for morning starts.Now since monsoon is here , I have to use the choke for 3 to 4
minutes before the carb is able to breathe on it's own . How many turns out is the factory setting ? And how many turns out
is the setting to get it started without the use of choke ? I upgraded from a 32 - 36 kmpl Pulsar 180 (one of the earliest models)
so mileage is not exactly an issue , but I'd like to alter the setting to my liking.
I'd posted earlier that I had changed the H/L bulb to halonix 55/60W . Even though the reflector's focus is pathetic , the light thrown on the road has increased and night riding is more comfy now. One downside is that the batteries feel the heat (contrary to many observations in this forum-at least in my case) . It is seen as a reset trip-meter/clock when I crank the engine in the morning the second time when the first cranking has failed to start the engine.Funnily , the odometer seems unaffected . Pls correct me if I'm wrong and if so then I have to check the battery.
I won't be a regular contributor to the site , but I'll do what I can.
Thanx...

Page 598 posts 5974 ,5977...Check your charging and battery condition...A battery with low charge or low charge retentivity will cause resetting of trip and clock, when engine is cranked with self start.

Replies in bold

Your plug shows that you are running slightly rich..Turn the AFR screw HALF turn CLOCKWISE to make the AFR slightly less rich.