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  • Originally posted by psr View Post
    Ashwin the difference in RPM between cold and hot shows the mix adjustment..A lean mix will give higher difference while a rich AFR mix will give less difference...

    No words sir, you've proved your worth......

    Cause from the day of purchase i've been worried about the abnormal change in my idle rpm's when hot and cold. I've asked SVC people but they were'nt able to answer and said its normal for a new bike...
    Motorcycling Experience:
    2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
    2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
    2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
    2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
    2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
    2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!

    The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
    Adios Comrades!
    A.P. 2018

    Comment


    • Today i installed Amaron Pro biker 9aH MF.Lets hope how its performance goes.Installed it with some alteration to the metal frame which any mechanic can do.Has anyone installed this battery.Please share your experiences.
      Leh,Ladakh & Lahaul Ride to Heaven & Back - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/1...aven-back.html
      Ride to Mt.Abu Rajasthan - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/1...is-desert.html
      Toranmal(Jungle)- http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/2...et-hidden.html

      Comment


      • Originally posted by n4speed View Post
        Today i installed Amaron Pro biker 9aH MF.Lets hope how its performance goes.Installed it with some alteration to the metal frame which any mechanic can do.Has anyone installed this battery.Please share your experiences.
        Post pics bro,Where are the pics??? Check my signature,me too have Amaron 9Ah in my karizma.
        Last edited by Aneesh@4GHz; 06-20-2011, 10:49 PM.

        Comment


        • Today I took my bike to the local mechanic. Explained him the problem with the gears being hard, he test rode it once and then started working on it. First detached the clutch cable from lever, and poured some oil into the cable and set it upright so that the oil can seep in.

          was around him like a housefly and asked questions at every instance. He opened the gear assembly first, then tried to see if the pedal itself is being blocked by any other parts (I guess this is what PSR sir explained, for double feedback issue - a flange blocking the free movement of the gear pedal). Then he detached the pedal and a small cover which sits next to the engine where one can see the chain and part of geartrains, greased every nut inside it. Then lubed all the nuts on the gear pedal. Reassembled it, then started working the clutch cable from the other side (push pull) and was trying to get the oil which he poured from above, come out from the this end. Surprisingly not even a drop of oil came out from the other end, and it bothered me a bit. He said we can probably change the cable as it might be clogged, but that is for later. Then, he reassembled the cable, clutch and adjusted the cable. I asked him if he is adjusting the free play correctly, and he did say yes when he heard the word free play.

          I took the bike for a test ride, and the hardness is still there (maybe there's a 15% decrease or maybe its just my imagination ). It did ride it for some good distance and the mech agreed that its still not smooth. He said he will tinker with the freeplay again to see if it would help, but I had to leave so will visit him again tomorrow.

          I had him do the oil change just couple of days ago with the Gulf 20W40 4T Pride plus. Today he told me that next time I should go for some Castrol or even better, fully synthetic oil like Motul. From his words, I could tell that this guy hasnt tried any synthetic/costly oils on any mobikes, but has come to know of the benefits offered by them. I told him several times that Gulf oil came highly recommended and is almost as good as Motul 300V except that oil change comes sooner. He still stuck to his point that oil change will bring in a major improvement but I was miffed as just a day ago I had the oil changed; as I had to leave I just took off, going back again tomorrow. Please help me bit more on how I should take this problem to the mech? Maybe I can ask something specific to be looked at?

          PS: Please pardon my long posts, should focus on making them shorter.
          Last edited by prashk; 06-21-2011, 01:31 AM.

          The above posts are derived from aggregation of opinions of several xBhp ZMA riders, based on personal experience/common sense. Please be advised that some things might differ from manufacturer's recommendations.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by prashk View Post
            Today I took my bike to the local mechanic. Explained him the problem with the gears being hard, he test rode it once and then started working on it. First detached the clutch cable from lever, and poured some oil into the cable and set it upright so that the oil can seep in.

            was around him like a housefly and asked questions at every instance. He opened the gear assembly first, then tried to see if the pedal itself is being blocked by any other parts (I guess this is what PSR sir explained, for double feedback issue - a flange blocking the free movement of the gear pedal). Then he detached the pedal and a small cover which sits next to the engine where one can see the chain and part of geartrains, greased every nut inside it. Then lubed all the nuts on the gear pedal. Reassembled it, then started working the clutch cable from the other side (push pull) and was trying to get the oil which he poured from above, come out from the this end. Surprisingly not even a drop of oil came out from the other end, and it bothered me a bit. He said we can probably change the cable as it might be clogged, but that is for later. Then, he reassembled the cable, clutch and adjusted the cable. I asked him if he is adjusting the free play correctly, and he did say yes when he heard the word free play.

            I took the bike for a test ride, and the hardness is still there (maybe there's a 15% decrease or maybe its just my imagination ). It did ride it for some good distance and the mech agreed that its still not smooth. He said he will tinker with the freeplay again to see if it would help, but I had to leave so will visit him again tomorrow.

            I had him do the oil change just couple of days ago with the Gulf 20W40 4T Pride plus. Today he told me that next time I should go for some Castrol or even better, fully synthetic oil like Motul. From his words, I could tell that this guy hasnt tried any synthetic/costly oils on any mobikes, but has come to know of the benefits offered by them. I told him several times that Gulf oil came highly recommended and is almost as good as Motul 300V except that oil change comes sooner. He still stuck to his point that oil change will bring in a major improvement but I was miffed as just a day ago I had the oil changed; as I had to leave I just took off, going back again tomorrow. Please help me bit more on how I should take this problem to the mech? Maybe I can ask something specific to be looked at?

            PS: Please pardon my long posts, should focus on making them shorter.

            Thanks alot for the detailed post... And can you tell me how many kms you'r bike has done?
            Motorcycling Experience:
            2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
            2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
            2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
            2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
            2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
            2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!

            The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
            Adios Comrades!
            A.P. 2018

            Comment


            • as my trip meter and clock were resetting time and again so day before yesterday i decided to get the my stock amron battery recharged to see if there is some life left in her.
              So i took off the battery in the evening to give it for recharging tomorrow, but due to some reason i needed the bike so i again attached the battery and went off riding

              and to my astonishment the trip/clock didnt resent one single time!!!!!!!!!!!
              the battery was removed for the whole night, so i guess it was something to do with it as it happens with many a electronic gadgets like mobiles and pc components

              have fingers crossed, lets see how long can she last..................

              SO GUYS BEFORE GOING FOR A BATTERY CHANGE DUE TO YOUR TRIP/CLOCK GETTING RESET, JUST TRY THE ABOVE METHOD FIRST, IT MAY WORK FOR YOU TOO
              i am growing old, but not up!

              Comment


              • So one need to keep the battery near computer and mobiles?
                It might be corrosion on the battery terminals...

                Comment


                • Originally posted by abhash View Post
                  and to my astonishment the trip/clock didnt resent one single time!!!!!!!!!!!
                  the battery was removed for the whole night, so i guess it was something to do with it as it happens with many a electronic gadgets like mobiles and pc components

                  have fingers crossed, lets see how long can she last..................

                  SO GUYS BEFORE GOING FOR A BATTERY CHANGE DUE TO YOUR TRIP/CLOCK GETTING RESET, JUST TRY THE ABOVE METHOD FIRST, IT MAY WORK FOR YOU TOO
                  The battery terminals were either corroded or loose and not making proper contact...so when you undid and re tightened the terminals while fixing back, you had corrected the battery terminal loose contact.
                  When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by psr View Post
                    The battery terminals were either corroded or loose and not making proper contact...so when you undid and re tightened the terminals while fixing back, you had corrected the battery terminal loose contact.
                    Exactly,That's what happened here.

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post
                      Post pics bro,Where are the pics??? Check my signature,me too have Amaron 9Ah in my karizma.
                      Are there any cold start problems ? now that i have installed 9ah i dont think there should be any problems.First i use to kickstart in the morning because the default battery was useless.
                      Leh,Ladakh & Lahaul Ride to Heaven & Back - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/1...aven-back.html
                      Ride to Mt.Abu Rajasthan - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/1...is-desert.html
                      Toranmal(Jungle)- http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/2...et-hidden.html

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by prashk View Post
                        I asked him if he is adjusting the free play correctly, and he did say yes when he heard the word free play.
                        What is the free play now ...how many mm ? If you have more than 5mm then your gear shifts will be bad and Very notchy.
                        Motul is a good engine oil.You get mineral oil in Motul also.....but a bit expensive.Do not go for Castrol because fakes are in the market.
                        Last edited by psr; 06-21-2011, 10:39 AM.
                        When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by n4speed View Post
                          Are there any cold start problems ? now that i have installed 9ah i dont think there should be any problems.First i use to kickstart in the morning because the default battery was useless.
                          I don't have cold start issues,Usually it starts @ first press,Its monsoon here,so sometimes need to hold the choke and will fire instantly.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by psr View Post
                            replies in bold.
                            Thank You sir for the necessary info I'll keep your suggestions in mind while going in for the changes.
                            I read a few posts that some are facing cold start problem, I am too facing the same but thought it is usual with the carb bikes.
                            Read a few posts that you suggested bike running lean and AFR should be correct ??? I have no clue over this, can you shed some light on this sir.

                            My bike usually starts using a choke and rpm fumbles around 1K and after 10-15 KMS of running it settles around 1200 RPM and then it runs fine.
                            Can you please explain me what could be the issue ?

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by psr View Post
                              Your clutch set up needs adjustment...When you pull the clutch lever you should have only 2 to 3 MM of Free Play...More than this will not disengage clutch fully and you will be trying to shift at partial clutch...adjust play by tightening the nut of the clutch cable holder....on the engine case..
                              Originally posted by psr View Post
                              Thanks for the picture depiction of the free play. I now reduced the same but will post the result after I ride it.

                              Originally posted by psr View Post
                              Aneesh I also found out one more important thing about the carb....There is a rubber tube attached to the carb on the Gear shaft side ..at half way point of carb.It is to ventilate and keep atmospheric pressure on petrol in the carb float bowl. The rubber tube will run under the seat by the side panel and will be approximately 12 " in length...If this is not attached the bike hesitates and sputters from 1.5K to 3 K RPM...
                              This tube on bike is broken at the carburetor end. Another thing to take care of.

                              Before checking all this, I went for a short ride to warm up the engine and then was checking the oil level. Shockingly the oil level looked to be even lower than the 'lower' marknot sure if I did something wrong there. But checked the same 2-3times but same indication. Did this with the bike on the main stand. Is this possible?

                              One more important issue I need to notify is that the oil leaks on my bike are back But from different part now. I see oil on top side of the crack-case, starter motor side. The top flat part is all covered with oil. And the I see oil on the starter motor as well.
                              I see some oil near the oil cap and some near the start kick joint as well.

                              I have cleaned the oil over the starter motor, so will post some pics after I test ride and try and zero in on the leak.

                              Comment


                              • ^^^
                                Seems like same prob of mine,Changed Gasket and oil seals,Now problems solved.

                                Comment

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