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**psr** · 06-25-2011, 10:56 AM

Originally posted by asif View Post

The quality of the plastic and parts seem to be improved on the newer bikes or is it just that its all new...

Yes the quality and THICKNESS of plastic is better in the recent ZMA/ZMR.
Now all the ZMA/ZMR have 6 Ampere battery made by EXIDE ETZ 7....A.S.S. still thinks it is 7 ampere..

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 06-25-2011, 10:59 AM

Originally posted by psr View Post

Yes the quality and THICKNESS of plastic is better in the recent ZMA/ZMR.

Thats is a good news to Karizma Owners.

A.S.S. still thinks it is 7 ampere..

Poor guys.

**psr** · 06-25-2011, 11:02 AM

Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post

PSR, there is more to it than what meets the eye. Theoretically, it is impossible, but practically a difference comes up. Any idea why is that?

(On my R15 with 165cc block, all stock rpm-speed values have gone for a toss - in every gear, I can reach the same speed with lower rpms!)

It is intriguing..... I found that when i switched from HH 10w30 to 20w40 for the same RPM i got better speeds...I presumed that it could be because of minimal clutch slip with 10w30...but in your case i don't know..was your oil grade or type also changed ?..or any ratio, in gear or in sprockets or tires changed...?
Can you post the differences..for my ZMA the difference was 500 RPM less for same speed...as though I had dropped a tooth in front sprocket.

**kaynmantis** · 06-25-2011, 11:50 AM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Lol.. The clock rotates at the same time phase no matter hw fast or slow we wind it.. Thats not rocket science, its so because our energy isnt directly transfered to the moving needle... Its transfered and stored in a passive state by the wind coil which is later on transfered to the needle... In a bike the entire scenereo is different, cause in a bike energy isnt stored...

mmm..obviously you didn't understand why I said "Mechanical" clock. You can directly transfer energy on a mechanical clocks. Y'know like those winding thingy at the back to adjust the time

. You can oil it, hold it sideways, wind it fast or slowly, whatever, it'll still move at the same phase.

Now on a bike, if all things are stock, variation in RPM/speed can occur if it is experiencing clutch slippage. Btw, old stock tyres vs new stock tyres can also give slight variation as the diameter will change due to wear.

Yes the quality and THICKNESS of plastic is better in the recent ZMA/ZMR.

This is indeed good news. Zma owners have often lamented about the plastic quality. I really didn't know the quality until I bought Yamaha R-15 lower fairing (I'm trying to replace my engine covers with them on my Zma

). I was dumbfounded by the Yamaha plastic quality, they were just like some cheap bucket plastic, flimsy and thin. But whats intriguing is they are cleverly designed so that there are no stubs jutting out to bolt on so the chance of breakage is minimal.

**abhijeet080808** · 06-25-2011, 12:42 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

It is intriguing..... I found that when i switched from HH 10w30 to 20w40 for the same RPM i got better speeds...I presumed that it could be because of minimal clutch slip with 10w30...but in your case i don't know..was your oil grade or type also changed ?..or any ratio, in gear or in sprockets or tires changed...?
Can you post the differences..for my ZMA the difference was 500 RPM less for same speed...as though I had dropped a tooth in front sprocket.

Same oil, same sprockets too. The difference is like I get atleast 5kmph more at the same rpms compared to before. At some rpms, the difference is more than 10 kmph too. (In 6th at 6k rpm, I get 75kmph, before it atleast 10kmph less.)

**abhimanyu31** · 06-25-2011, 12:51 PM

Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post

Same oil, same sprockets too. The difference is like I get atleast 5kmph more at the same rpms compared to before. At some rpms, the difference is more than 10 kmph too. (In 6th at 6k rpm, I get 75kmph, before it atleast 10kmph less.)

The difference is due to increased mechanical efficiency due to increased torque... transmission losses have been reduced... it so happens that the increased torque is enabling the engine to overcome the transmission losses created by fluid resistance (oil) and frictional losses... however that does not mean the increasing the torque even further will show a further difference... there is a theoretical limit to mechanical efficiency that cannot be crossed... though I feel that once your engine becomes free you will get about 1 - 2 kms more out of it at 6K rpm and 6th gear....

**ravneetsingh** · 06-25-2011, 01:44 PM

hello

hello my frnd...
which head lamp is ur using...n is there any drawbacks of tht lamp like melting of frame...n wht abt the batttery...is it going gud..?

**ashwinprakas** · 06-25-2011, 01:46 PM

Originally posted by kaynmantis View Post

mmm..obviously you didn't understand why I said "Mechanical" clock. You can directly transfer energy on a mechanical clocks. Y'know like those winding thingy at the back to adjust the time

. You can oil it, hold it sideways, wind it fast or slowly, whatever, it'll still move at the same phase.

Now on a bike, if all things are stock, variation in RPM/speed can occur if it is experiencing clutch slippage. Btw, old stock tyres vs new stock tyres can also give slight variation as the diameter will change due to wear.

.

I was referring to the same... thats y i used "WIND SPRING"..

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 06-25-2011, 02:18 PM

Originally posted by ravneetsingh View Post

hello my frnd...
which head lamp is ur using...n is there any drawbacks of tht lamp like melting of frame...n wht abt the batttery...is it going gud..?

Bro what do you want to know? You need Bulb for headlight?Battery?

nothing is clear in your query.

**abhijeet080808** · 06-25-2011, 03:19 PM

Originally posted by abhimanyu31 View Post

The difference is due to increased mechanical efficiency due to increased torque... transmission losses have been reduced... it so happens that the increased torque is enabling the engine to overcome the transmission losses created by fluid resistance (oil) and frictional losses... however that does not mean the increasing the torque even further will show a further difference... there is a theoretical limit to mechanical efficiency that cannot be crossed... though I feel that once your engine becomes free you will get about 1 - 2 kms more out of it at 6K rpm and 6th gear....

Also, in case of the ZMA here, its just a oil change which prompts this change. Heck, even going uphill or downhill or with a pillion will seem to affect this ratio.

Is it that, the engine rotates so forcefully at 5k rpm that it 'overdrives' the wheel a bit? If we can place the engine under sufficient load, we will get the actual theoretical speed?

(Its actually more than 75 (78 or 79 to be exact), just being conservative here!

)

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 06-25-2011, 04:20 PM

Guys what is the use of the marked item?Now a days i can see it in most of the Hero honda bikes.

**abhimanyu31** · 06-25-2011, 04:27 PM

Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post

(Its actually more than 75 (78 or 79 to be exact), just being conservative here!

)

I thought as much... mine too is 79 kmph @ 6000 rpm (my mind keeps saying just 1 km more... to make it all rounded off to 80 km and maintaining perfect symmetry but alas 79 it is

).

Transmission based losses vary based on models and manufactures (and in individual bikes of the same make and model)... oils do make a difference... oil based variations are indicative (though its not hard and fast) of the type of fluid resistance and clutch slippage that the bike has. It is a well known fact that many bikes do not work well with oils that have friction modifiers, whereas there are bikes that will run just fine with these types of additives in oils.

**kariznin** · 06-25-2011, 06:02 PM

@ psr sir : thank you sir

, the cold start problem was resolved but now the difference in rpm levels at hot & cold. Is that fine ? It starts around 1200 and when hot around 1500.
Another issue I faced is that my bike starts missing when accelerating from around 5k rpm, it gives little jerk and then moves fine. What could be the issue here?
And please help me out on adjusting the free play of the throttle and clutch, I think it is more than the specified limit and due to this my bikes FE is gone for toss, it is giving around 27kmpl. I tried the manual way but didn't succeded.

@ Aneesh@4GHz : AFAIK it is the indicator for marking the correct alignment for the chain tension and the rear wheel. It was not present in the earlier models but now they have started giving the same as other manufacturers are also providing.

**psr** · 06-25-2011, 06:44 PM

Originally posted by kariznin View Post

@ psr sir : thank you sir

, the cold start problem was resolved but now the difference in rpm levels at hot & cold. Is that fine ? It starts around 1200 and when hot around 1500.
Here in Chennai the temp.is still high so I didn't have to adjust much..if the ambient temp drops, cold start will be a problem and you may have to increase cold idle and when ambient temp is more it will show higher idle..so understand the underlying reason and relax.
Another issue I faced is that my bike starts missing when accelerating from around 5k rpm, it gives little jerk and then moves fine. What could be the issue here?
There is a breather tube from the carb to outside air to maintain float bowl petrol at atmosphere pressure...If this rubber tube is not in place bike will hesitate ..check for it.

And please help me out on adjusting the free play of the throttle and clutch, I think it is more than the specified limit and due to this my bikes FE is gone for toss, it is giving around 27kmpl. I tried the manual way but didn't succeded.

The FE may be bad because of rich running...just turn the AFR screw clockwise by HALF TURN and check..FE will be better.
Regarding accelerator free play there are two places where you can correct it...one is under the throttle itself, and the other is in the cable attachment to the carb..
CLUTCH FREE PLAY WITHIN 5mm.

ADJUST THE CLUTCH FREE PLAY WITH THESE SCREW AND NUTS

THROTTLE FREE PLAY ADJUSTMENT BOLT AND LOCK NUT

.

replies in bold

**abhijeet080808** · 06-25-2011, 06:45 PM

Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post

Guys what is the use of the marked item?Now a days i can see it in most of the Hero honda bikes.

Is that alloy wheel on a HH bike?

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