Some ZMA owners had experienced notchy gear shifts due to 20W40 compared to 10W30...This is because of the thicker oil .....read the contents in the link for the original ZMA specs.
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I am glad that the topic has come up...The stock HH oil is 10W30 which is good for the first 300 Kms. thereafter the oil slowly looses its ability, and deteriorates fast.. The Gulf pride is 20W40, so with a thicker oil the heating is comparatively less and the oil also lasts longer..Regarding the change in bikes RPM Vs Speed observation, what you had observed is correct..though there is an error...The stock ZMA has a gear , and drive ratio to give 15 Kmph for 1,000 RPM on top gear. with 10w30 the chance for clutch slip is more whereas with a thicker oil it is less...this is the reason for the change you had observed....Originally posted by prashk View Post
Some ZMA owners had experienced notchy gear shifts due to 20W40 compared to 10W30...This is because of the thicker oil .....read the contents in the link for the original ZMA specs.
Last edited by psr; 06-24-2011, 12:15 PM.When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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If you don't mind, can I deviate the topic a little to oil pls? Ji, Feel free, if you think its OT as 10W-30 OR 20W-40 is what is recommended on mine too & hence the question.
Forget the winter temperature, that we don't undergo. Looking at the summer temperature, atleast, Chennai hits 40 degree very easily isn't it? So shouldn't we ideally stick to XW-40 or even XW-50? Why do manufacturers suggest going for XW-30?Skill is what keeps you on a Motorcycle
Awareness + Skill is what keeps you out of harm's way
ATGATT + Awareness + Skill means you might Live To Ride another day
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For the ZMA the original design came with 5 plates clutch and was know to have issues regarding requirement of early change. In ZMA-R this was changed to six plates to improve clutch friction and longevity..This meant that the clutch now does have more friction than before..so to void hard gear shifts, the oil was reduced from 20w40 to 10w30to allow plates to release and slip better to avoid this problem,during shifts.Originally posted by aargee View PostIf you don't mind, can I deviate the topic a little to oil pls? Ji, Feel free, if you think its OT as 10W-30 OR 20W-40 is what is recommended on mine too & hence the question.
Forget the winter temperature, that we don't undergo. Looking at the summer temperature, atleast, Chennai hits 40 degree very easily isn't it? So shouldn't we ideally stick to XW-40 or even XW-50? Why do manufacturers suggest going for XW-30?
In fact some have even found the ZMA to give better RPM Vs speed after changing over to the thicker oil in ZMA-R(earlier posts).....and few have notchy gear shifts due to thicker oil including my bike..But the overall benefit of better engine smoothness, less heat,and better FE(less clutch slip) has, more people going back to the 20w40 like in older ZMA.
Regarding other bikes in our climate condition, it is always better to go for one step more in oil weight due to the heat factor, and go for close range oil weights ie., 20w40 or 20w50 instead of 0w40 or 0w50.With thicker oil The engine may not rev quicker and gears may become notchy...but at the end of day whether it is highway or in city, I am sure that my engine is cooler and lube is better and oil remains in better condition for longer period.....Just my thought...Last edited by psr; 06-24-2011, 12:36 PM.When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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From what I have seen/learned is that, we should be more concerned about the x40 and not the number precedes. The range is usually an operating temperature and usually the cold regions might have to go for lower winter grade i.e 5,10 etc. For other regions where the temperature never dips below 20, I would think it is safe to go for 5w40.10w40 or 20w40 and as you said even 15w50.Originally posted by psr View PostFor the ZMA the original design came with 5 plates clutch and was know to have issues regarding requirement of early change. In ZMA-R this was changed to six plates to improve clutch friction and longevity..This meant that the clutch now does have more friction than before..so to void hard gear shifts, the oil was reduced from 20w40 to 10w30to allow plates to release and slip better to avoid this problem,during shifts.
In fact some have even found the ZMA to give better RPM Vs speed after changing over to the thicker oil in ZMA-R(earlier posts).....and few have notchy gear shifts due to thicker oil including my bike..But the overall benefit of better engine smoothness, less heat,and better FE(less clutch slip) has, more people going back to the 20w40 like in older ZMA.
Regarding other bikes in our climate condition, it is always better to go for one step more in oil weight due to the heat factor, and go for close range oil weights ie., 20w40 or 20w50 instead of 0w40 or 0w50.With thicker oil The engine may not rev quicker and gears may become notchy...but at the end of day whether it is highway or in city, I am sure that my engine is cooler and lube is better and oil remains in better condition for longer period.....Just my thought...RX100 1996 | Karizma 2004 | Karizma-R 2011 | RXZ 1999 | RX 135 1998 | RX 100 1993 | CBF150 2005 - 2011
2012 - Meghamalai | Kuttralam | 2011 Ooty | Munnar | 2010 Point Calimere | Horsley Hills | Yercaud
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Note in the oil viscosity Vs different temperature, a single grade SAE 40 oil is better suited for high temperature than a multigrade 20W50 .Originally posted by SriramEfunds View PostFrom what I have seen/learned is that, we should be more concerned about the x40 and not the number precedes. The range is usually an operating temperature and usually the cold regions might have to go for lower winter grade i.e 5,10 etc. For other regions where the temperature never dips below 20, I would think it is safe to go for 5w40.10w40 or 20w40 and as you said even 15w50.
When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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I was thinking of shifting to Gulf Pride 4T Plus 10W30 @ next oil change after 2000kms ,so that i can figure out if there is any change in gear smoothness.
what you say Psr sir?
Also planning for fork oil change for my karizma,Which one is the best oil for fork?
Karizma Parts Manual - https://picasaweb.google.com/1010125...rizmaCatalogue
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No need for going to lower grade bro.... as psr sir said... U have 5 plates so you need higher grade...Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View PostI was thinking of shifting to Gulf Pride 4T Plus 10W30 @ next oil change after 2000kms ,so that i can figure out if there is any change in gear smoothness.
what you say Psr sir?
Also planning for fork oil change for my karizma,Which one is the best oil for fork?
Motorcycling Experience:
2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!
The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
Adios Comrades!
A.P. 2018
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Yes,but i would like to know whether it makes any changes to my gear.Originally posted by ashwinprakas View PostNo need for going to lower grade bro.... as psr sir said... U have 5 plates so you need higher grade...
Guys,check out new Karizma-R's Battery compartment Area.Seems like its completely different from Older versions.
Just kidding guys.
Sorry aswinprakas

Last edited by Aneesh@4GHz; 06-24-2011, 05:21 PM.Karizma Parts Manual - https://picasaweb.google.com/1010125...rizmaCatalogue
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Oil has nothing to do with RMP/Kmph. If no changes are done to tyres, sprockets or gear ratios, RMP/Kmph will remain same no matter what. Doesn't matter whether the engine is producing 1000hp or 10hp or whatever oil. It will still return the same Kmph for a given RPM.Originally posted by prashk View PostThere have been some interesting changes since then. Before the change, my FE has been around 33-36km/l. I was able to do 60kmph @ 4k rpm, 80kmph @ 5k rpm. After switching to Gulf 4T Pride plus 20W40, it is doing 60kmph @ 3.5k rpm, 70kmph @ 4.1k rpm, 80kmph @ 4.8k rpm. I am not sure if oil change has anything to do with it,
So the possibilities are.
1. You may be mistaken.
2. You have changed to slightly bigger rear tyres.
3. You have changed to slightly smaller front tyres
4. You have changed to smaller rear sprocket.
5. You have changed to bigger front sprocket.
6. Meter is faulty.
Changing gear ratios is highly unlikely so it has to be one of the above.
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Guys... Is this Normal????Last edited by ashwinprakas; 06-24-2011, 06:18 PM.Motorcycling Experience:
2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!
The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
Adios Comrades!
A.P. 2018
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Yes,Its the oil from chain.Originally posted by ashwinprakas View PostGuys... Is this Normal????
to make it sure,check engine oil level.
Karizma Parts Manual - https://picasaweb.google.com/1010125...rizmaCatalogue
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Originally posted by kaynmantis View PostOil has nothing to do with RMP/Kmph. If no changes are done to tyres, sprockets or gear ratios, RMP/Kmph will remain same no matter what. Doesn't matter whether the engine is producing 1000hp or 10hp or whatever oil. It will still return the same Kmph for a given RPM.
So the possibilities are.
1. You may be mistaken.
2. You have changed to slightly bigger rear tyres.
3. You have changed to slightly smaller front tyres
4. You have changed to smaller rear sprocket.
5. You have changed to bigger front sprocket.
6. Meter is faulty.
Changing gear ratios is highly unlikely so it has to be one of the above.
Nothings broken bro... Mines the same..
Active acceleration - 60@4000.
Passive acceleration - 60@3500.
The above is irrespective of oil used. I know cause I've used both..
Motorcycling Experience:
2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!
The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
Adios Comrades!
A.P. 2018
Comment
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Are you saying 60@4000 and 60@3500 in 5th gear? Two different RPM for the same speed in 5th gear?Originally posted by ashwinprakas View PostNothings broken bro... Mines the same..
Active acceleration - 60@4000.
Passive acceleration - 60@3500.
The above is irrespective of oil used. I know cause I've used both..
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Originally posted by kaynmantis View PostAre you saying 60@4000 and 60@3500 in 5th gear? Two different RPM for the same speed in 5th gear?
Me too confused.
What is active and passive acceleration?
Mine does 60km/h @ 4k rpm,Actaully ZMA does 60km/h @ 3750rpm.My bikes sprocket are worned out.so it does 60km/h @ 4krpm.
Karizma Parts Manual - https://picasaweb.google.com/1010125...rizmaCatalogue
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