A Unicorn or CBZ is different from a ZMA,so if you are searching for parts for ZMA ,stick to ZMA parts.
An Iridium plug is used when the spark energy is less and you want longer change interval.It will give good pull till 5 k RPM and there after the bike will feel lethargic.
The HH oil you had used is MA certified. When better oils with MA2 certification are available, why did you choose to go for lower rated oil ?

From your first post I knew about your knowledge level ,which is why I asked you to read up on the subject...and I didn't scold you...and you don't sound stupid either...Thanks for the confidence you have shown in my knowledge..hope I become worthy of it someday...
Here are some useful links...
Care & Feeding Of The Keihin Carb

Honda Motorcycle Carburetion Manual | SOHC/4 Owners Club

Motorcycle Repair Course

DIY Motorcycle Maintenance

Kennedys DynoTune- Dynamic Compression Ratio Explained

How Motorcycle Transmissions Work

Crash Guard for ZMA R

Today took the 1st physical step in fitting a crash guard for my ZMA R.
I am fitting a Stunner CG ( without the raised edges) and hope this will be helpful for someone attempting a similar fitment .
Things to have-
1. Stunner crash guard
2. Flat head screw driver , Spanners/ring-spanners/box-spanners - to avoid slipping , ring and box are better . Size 11,12 & 13 (for DIY-ists all types/sizes are a must. I add to my collection as and when I find I don't have one. Today , got me a 12 size ring & box and box-adapter and handle) .
3. Engine mount bolt of slightly more length. - see pic.


I have removed the belly cowl as of now . Will fit it if feasible/possible/needed etc.
Remove belly cowl - two screws (or flat head bolts - if you like ) on either side is holding it .


Then the cowl frame has to go



Remove bottom most engine mount bolt and fit bottom mount of Guard there using the longer bolt.


Fix U clamp at top mount point using some spacer behind the chassis . (haven't done it yet since I am thinking about another method . Will post it when done )





After tightening all nuts/bolts and screws , check guard for rigid fitting .

If it's OK for you , it's OK for me !!

The looks have changed drastically - but it's any day better than the 'cowl-less' naked look .







And guys , oops if the pic size is too big -
Oops again - Forgot to watermark the pics...

My pics at photobucket are here

Replies in BOLD.
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Heads up guys, next DIY's going to be up any moment. Its India's most wanted DIY ever, its even more scarier and shocking than the previous tappet setting's one.

Guy's what say about open chain guard??? Or O ring or whatever.
And whats the procedure of doing so.

Reason-
Thanks to SVC, all my chain guard bolting point's threads are gone.

My bike has crossed 11k kms and i am going to give it for servicing to the svc there is not any big problem just sound coming from fiber part because it is broken. But it is written in service manual to change spark plug and air filter in 10k so should i change it.

Maybe I got lucky - I think using the lower engine mount bolt as base is a good idea - not sure . Just went out for a short ride - it was raining and visibility was so-so . Normal braking seems OK - didn't want to check whether it'd save me in case of a fall , so didn't check hard braking .
I'm not comfortable with the U-clamp . Am going for 'flat head bolt+clamp' set-up ASAP . The seasonal rains are playing spoil sport . Evening's the time I am free and it's then that it rains .

Thanx for the comment on the ride - had no fall as yet from this one . . .hope my luck stays ! Lucky I didn't post a pic of the muck on the cowl !!! My tank-top (literal) is full of scratches though . Am used to keeping things on the tank .

Saw this aux set up on the net


Can we fit an aux likewise on the ZMA R ?
can that bolt be used ? If we can then we can have a light that turns with the handle !

Should i cancel my booking and get a pre-owned one?

It's been almost two months and yet no news on when my bike is going to be delivered. Dealer says there is some problem from HMC front. Considering this uncertainty i am thinking about the pre-owned route ? What do you guys suggest ? If yes then how much should a 15k run 2009 model cost ?

It all depends on your mindset and desperation. You can also buy a good 2nd hand provided if you have patience and luck. Well maintained 2009 model should fetch something around 50-60k easy.

well will check metro cash and carry , and even an area where we get huge supply of products will enter those market soon for a round
@all just reaching my 12k what are things that i should look into my bike so that it runs smooth , I was planning to get my spark plug changed and may be my battery in sometime as planning to upgrade lights and how much an airfilter would cost and which 1 to go for.
IS there anything more which i should look into this time when my bike goes for a service, surely going wth gulf oil this time and see performance changed compared to castrol power 1

Nicely done,One suggestion,Keep the engine clean to some extend. I can see some dung on the Cowl clamp.

If inspected and maintained regularly (say every week,Yes it will needs lubing every week if open) then you can keep it open.

Yes,Change the spark Plug and Airfilter and feel the difference.Also check disk brake fluid and replace or top up if necessary.

That one seems to be a good idea. Wiring will go through the forks right? Will it create any problem?

Replace Spark Plug and Airfilter with new one.Plug 75rs and airfilter 205rs
Inspect,Clean,adjust and lube chain,Use new oil,never use used oil in chain,or use bearing grease to lube it.Check air pressure,Is the battery dead? If yes,Get it recharged,If you are having 7Ah battery,Replace with Exide 7Ah MF battery or if ready for a mod,get the AMARON 9Ah MF Battery.Also check disk brake fluid and replace or top up if necessary.

Yes change the spark plug with NGK DPR 8EA-9,and also the Air Filter.
The plug can run another 5 K kms easily,but the Air filter may not last that long.

nice will chk out when it gets serviced will look into all issue as u mention as now my bike is in good maintenance so just wanted it to be the same further thus gathering info.

can i go for these

or default spark plus which we get

Well , you know how it is - cow/buffalo exhaust is found on almost all the roads here . Since I'm dependent entirely on Municipality water supply , I cut some corners - well , most corners!


Since we have the disc brake tube going down we can make use of that for the wire ... Currently not for me -I'm on to the crash guard now . Let's see how that progresses !

Sir, in my opinion if you place aux lamps there in your Karizma, heading upwards then it will hit the fairing part/number plate holder etc whenever the front shocks are pressed due to uneven surface maybe. An idea from me, is that as you have installed the crash guard, get it properly fit and then attach the aux lamps on the crash guard itself(as seen on Bappa Da's bike; xBhp id onwheels, location Kolkata), reasons:
1. It will increase the spread of the light produced by the aux lamps as they will be placed at some greater distance, as compared to when they are placed at your mentioned place.
2. It will look more "rally" type.
But this light won't turn with handle as you wrote in the last line, when placed on the crash guard, but will definitely cover up the entire area of the road even during a turn!

Also, the setup seen in the image from the internet that you've posted, will be actually "wasting" some light as less than half of the throw from both aux lamps will be on the front tire etc.
these views are what I thought when seeing the pic, it may vary from person to person.
You are great, Sir. Thanks for giving me this Sunday's assignment

Update: tomorrow is a surprise test in the college, so service postponed to Friday/Saturday