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Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

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  • #11746
    Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post
    Sorry If I've been too cautious, can't help from the habbit of a 2 stroker where parts don't come easy.
    Liked it.Also add Handle bar's and bar ends and clamps to the stock.

    Congrats bro. Wishing you safe miles ahead.

    Comment

    • #11747
      Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post
      My ZMA-R completed 1 year


      3. Heat sink behind RR unit:- Replaced the existing one with bigger size (Phanikar.. I remember) to for quick heat decipation from RR unit.

      Looking ahead:-
      What tyres should I use after M45 for the rear?
      The 110-90 18 tires from MRF (which goes into RE Classic) seems to be a better option. Haven't heard any bad reviews on usage of ZapperC / Zapper Q. Hopefully you can try that.
      Stories of the open road...........

      Comment

      • #11748
        Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post
        My ZMA-R completed 1 year
        Congratulations mate!!. Wishing you many more miles ahead & a trouble free ownership.

        Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post
        3. Heat sink behind RR unit:- Replaced the existing one with bigger size (Phanikar.. I remember) to for quick heat decipation from RR unit.
        Can you please share some light on this point. I would like to change this as I keep the RR unit high on the job courtesy 1 55/60w Philips extreme vision, 1 55w Hella aux lamp, dual bosc horns, & brake lights. Once on a long ride, I had kept both the lights ON & when I took a break just checked the unit & it was TOO HOT to handle.

        Changing the heat sink will help in better heat dissipation and longer life of the unit.

        Comment

        • #11749
          Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post
          My ZMA-R completed 1 year

          11000kms done
          60/55w Philips Xtreme vision
          Philips T10 LED pilot
          M45
          9ah Amaron
          Carb slide mod
          Hearty Congratulations on an event free ownership and maintenance...Wish you may more Happy Miles...
          When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

          Comment

          • #11750
            Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post
            Liked it.Also add Handle bar's and bar ends and clamps to the stock.

            Congrats bro. Wishing you safe miles ahead.
            If those are hard to find will do so. Thanks Aneesh.

            Originally posted by phanikar View Post
            The 110-90 18 tires from MRF (which goes into RE Classic) seems to be a better option. Haven't heard any bad reviews on usage of ZapperC / Zapper Q. Hopefully you can try that.
            Offlate MRF had not been in favorite list, however, will check!

            Originally posted by imjoshee View Post
            Congratulations mate!!. Wishing you many more miles ahead & a trouble free ownership.
            Thanks. Nothing acheived big. But had a incident free riding experience. Touchwood.



            Can you please share some light on this point. I would like to change this as I keep the RR unit high on the job courtesy 1 55/60w Philips extreme vision, 1 55w Hella aux lamp, dual bosc horns, & brake lights. Once on a long ride, I had kept both the lights ON & when I took a break just checked the unit & it was TOO HOT to handle.

            Changing the heat sink will help in better heat dissipation and longer life of the unit.
            Just check the RR unit, there is a difference between old and new ZMA-R and I believe the later ones have edge in terms of heating (low heat). Let me post some pics if possible to correlate better.

            Originally posted by psr View Post
            Hearty Congratulations on an event free ownership and maintenance...Wish you may more Happy Miles...
            Thank you Sir.
            RX100 1996 | Karizma 2004 | Karizma-R 2011 | RXZ 1999 | RX 135 1998 | RX 100 1993 | CBF150 2005 - 2011

            2012 - Meghamalai | Kuttralam | 2011 Ooty | Munnar | 2010 Point Calimere | Horsley Hills | Yercaud

            Comment

            • #11751
              The 2011 RR unit in ZMA-R ..The size is bigger and heats less..for added protection a Aluminum plate can be put behind the RR unit of the size marked in white,which would help..When you fit the heat sink then the top corner marked with yellow stripes,will hit the fiber body so must be bent,after fixing it in place
              Last edited by psr; 06-01-2012, 10:36 PM.
              When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

              Comment

              • #11752
                Originally posted by vivekarizma View Post
                A question to all those who have fixed an amaron 9ah battery, a 55/60w bulb and dual horns in their ZMAs..does your headlight flickers when u press the horn with the brake light on (brake pedal/lever pressed)? with indicators off though! this is the first time for me with a 9ah battery in my zma and it does flickers/dims a bit when I press the horn in the above condition. but not as evident as it does with a 6ah one. both the tail bulbs are 5/10w and the parking lights are LED ones..pl clarify!
                IMO it shouldn't flicker if the battery is fully charged and you are riding the bike . Especially in your case , since the tail bulbs are 5/10 W ones and the park lights LEDs , you should gain at least another 20W+ from that change alone . The increase in battery ampere should give you may be @ 35 W . But since the 6Ah battery is pathetically inadequate to support the OE electricals in the first place , it is not a correct calculation to show the benefit .
                But if the dual horns are power hungry ( like those 6" dia ones ), you might have a slight flickering .
                I have a 9Ah battery (though not Amaron) , 55/60W halonix h/l bulb , 5/10W tails , LED parks and normal dual horns . I havent noticed any flickering so far . Will check if there's any .
                Also , when I'm riding with low beam and press the pass switch , I haven't noticed any less intensity in brightness .
                sigpic

                Comment

                • #11753
                  Originally posted by acs1207 View Post
                  IMO it shouldn't flicker if the battery is fully charged and you are riding the bike . Especially in your case , since the tail bulbs are 5/10 W ones and the park lights LEDs , you should gain at least another 20W+ from that change alone . The increase in battery ampere should give you may be @ 35 W . But since the 6Ah battery is pathetically inadequate to support the OE electricals in the first place , it is not a correct calculation to show the benefit .
                  But if the dual horns are power hungry ( like those 6" dia ones ), you might have a slight flickering .
                  I have a 9Ah battery (though not Amaron) , 55/60W halonix h/l bulb , 5/10W tails , LED parks and normal dual horns . I havent noticed any flickering so far . Will check if there's any .
                  Also , when I'm riding with low beam and press the pass switch , I haven't noticed any less intensity in brightness .
                  Me having 1 stock horn + pulsar's low pitch connected in series..
                  yesterday while returning from office after using the headlight for about an hour so when i pressed the horn the headlight still flickers/dims.It flickered more than what happened in the begining of the ride.strange!

                  Also, ACS sir, when I press the pass switch while in low beam, its like the low beam completely going off and high beam coming into play!
                  all the above happened when I was on the move and not in idling.
                  Does this mean that I should install a headlight relay?
                  One good thing to feel happy is that, even after an hour of riding, the engine cranked up as soon as i press the started switch. This never happened with the 6ah battery rather it makes the tripmeter n clock to reset even if i use headlight for a very minimal time!

                  PSR sir what u suggest, need to add the aluminium plate or not?because I am doing atleast 3 to 4 night rides a month where the headlight stays on atleast for 2 hrs continuously on each!
                  "safety will be the sturdy child of terror, and survival the twin brother of annihilation"

                  Comment

                  • #11754
                    Originally posted by vivekarizma View Post
                    PSR sir what u suggest, need to add the aluminium plate or not?because I am doing atleast 3 to 4 night rides a month where the headlight stays on atleast for 2 hrs continuously on each!
                    Irrespective of day or night, the Aluminum heat sink is a life saver as for as the RR is concerned...You can make it from a Aluminum plate used in our Kitchen...THE THICKER THE PLATE THE BETTER THE HEAT DISSIPATION....Get a 8 or 9 inches dia aluminum plate,cut a piece with 3.5 inches WIDTH ,and 8 or 9 inches length, then fold it in center to get a 3.5inch by 4 inch plate.Use this as shown in the pic., in post 11751 ..you have to cut or bend the top left most corner so that it does nor hit the fiber panel.
                    Last edited by psr; 06-01-2012, 10:33 PM.
                    When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

                    Comment

                    • #11755
                      Originally posted by psr View Post
                      Irrespective of day or night, the Aluminum heat sink is a life saver as for as the RR is concerned...You can make it from a Aluminum plate used in our Kitchen...THE THICKER THE PLATE THE BETTER THE HEAT DISSIPATION....Get a 8 or 9 inches dia aluminum plate,cut a piece with 3.5 inches WIDTH ,and 8 or 9 inches length, then fold it in center to get a 3.5inch by 4 inch plate.Use this as shown in the pic., in post 11751 ..you have to cut or bend the top left most corner so that it does nor hit the fiber panel.
                      DIY coming soon. . Planning to do it this vacation around 23rd this month. . Exam time now .
                      Cheetahs are faster but the lion is still the KING

                      Being In Love with a Girl is like being a superbike fitted with SPEED LIMITER

                      Comment

                      • #11756
                        Originally posted by vivekarizma View Post
                        Me having 1 stock horn + pulsar's low pitch connected in series..

                        You mean in parallel , right ?
                        In series connection the positive of the battery ( which comes from the switch ) goes into one terminal of the first horn and the 2nd terminal is connected to the 1st terminal of the 2nd horn and the 2nd terminal of the 2nd horn is connected to the negative .
                        In a parallel connection , the positive and negative of the battery is split into two and the wires are connected so that there is no 1st horn or 2nd horn .
                        It should be a parallel connection.
                        yesterday while returning from office after using the headlight for about an hour so when i pressed the horn the headlight still flickers/dims.It flickered more than what happened in the begining of the ride.strange!
                        Check the battery voltage and connections .
                        Also, ACS sir, when I press the pass switch while in low beam, its like the low beam completely going off and high beam coming into play!
                        all the above happened when I was on the move and not in idling.
                        Does this mean that I should install a headlight relay?
                        In my ZMAR , it's irrelevant whether it's idling or not . With the H/L on , if I press the starter then the light just dims to @ the light we get with a 35/35W h/l .
                        Headlight relay is advisable when going for higher than OE rated equipments . I'm not sure which model your ZMA is or whether the newer ones' pass switch by-passes the low beam when the switch is pressed . Someone please shed light on this . Or it may be that your battery voltage is low or there's a slight leak in the wiring - don't panic , go systematically. Check your battery voltage with engine killed , idling and at medium rpm .
                        One good thing to feel happy is that, even after an hour of riding, the engine cranked up as soon as i press the started switch. This never happened with the 6ah battery rather it makes the tripmeter n clock to reset even if i use headlight for a very minimal time!

                        PSR sir what u suggest, need to add the aluminium plate or not?because I am doing atleast 3 to 4 night rides a month where the headlight stays on atleast for 2 hrs continuously on each!

                        Originally posted by psr View Post
                        Irrespective of day or night, the Aluminum heat sink is a life saver as for as the RR is concerned...You can make it from a Aluminum plate used in our Kitchen...THE THICKER THE PLATE THE BETTER THE HEAT DISSIPATION....Get a 8 or 9 inches dia aluminum plate,cut a piece with 3.5 inches WIDTH ,and 8 or 9 inches length, then fold it in center to get a 3.5inch by 4 inch plate.Use this as shown in the pic., in post 11751 ..you have to cut or bend the top left most corner so that it does nor hit the fiber panel.
                        Would the heat sink of a CPU do ? Or will it be too bulky ? I've got a couple lying around..
                        Originally posted by Vishakh View Post
                        DIY coming soon. . Planning to do it this vacation around 23rd this month. . Exam time now .
                        Please post results and snaps .

                        @ all -
                        I've been staying off from posting for some time . The 235's running in is just about at the fag end . I am not riding much lately - some health problems and also busy otherwise . Also , the final item is still being awaited . And the monsoon being near , I guess it'll be some time before I can post the performance aspect of the bike .

                        Reply also in bold/maroon .

                        Edit- oops... seems I got the switch on the wrong terminal in the diagram .
                        Last edited by acs1207; 06-02-2012, 12:45 AM. Reason: oops
                        sigpic

                        Comment

                        • #11757
                          Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post
                          My ZMA-R completed 1 year

                          I whole heartedly enjoyed every moment from the day one. Yeah! I had hiccups too, that had come as an opportunity to learn about the bike. Not very often had a chance to learn about my earlier 4 joke Oops! 4 stroke Unicorn however, ZMA-R was quite interesting and fell in love with the bike. I would still rate myself a newbie when it comes to ZMA as there is alot to learn about.

                          1. Carb slide stuck - Remedy - open the air flow inlet and release the slide gently. You can also try tapping on the side of the carb body and try revving to see if the RPM moves up.

                          What tyres should I use after M45 for the rear? I'm still on the hunt to find a good replacement. Already stocked up Air filter, Chain sprocket, mirrors, clutch plates and cables (clutch and accelerator) for future. Sorry If I've been too cautious, can't help from the habbit of a 2 stroker where parts don't come easy.

                          Engine Oil, I'm still experimenting with various brand. So far Motul 3000T Mineral been good and now running on Shell AX7 SS, is doing a decent job.

                          Congratulations Sir.

                          And thanks I got the Carb slide issue solved by myself. took the bike for a spin on a nice road, was fed up with vehicles passing by and me stuck below 60 kph.. so went roadside searching for a small stone or something to hit the carb found a coconut smacked the side of the carb near the idle screw with engine revving in neutral around 5k rpm and yeah after a few hits it revved so fast beyond 9k rpm... and then again came that smile on my face I was so waiting for this

                          So for those who face this problem can try this quick DIY (not necessarily with coconut though )

                          Thank you and thanks to the respected PSR Sir who helped me understand the problem from the inside.

                          And for engine oil, do listen to your little brother once and give a try to Elf Moto Gold which I mentioned few pages back. awesome feedback, equivalent to the Motul if not better

                          Wish you more and more happy hassle free miles
                          Last edited by sunny_; 06-02-2012, 01:45 AM.

                          Comment

                          • #11758
                            Originally posted by sunny_ View Post
                            Congratulations Sir.

                            And thanks I got the Carb slide issue solved by myself. took the bike for a spin on a nice road, was fed up with vehicles passing by and me stuck below 60 kph.. so went roadside searching for a small stone or something to hit the carb found a coconut smacked the side of the carb near the idle screw with engine revving in neutral around 5k rpm and yeah after a few hits it revved so fast beyond 9k rpm... and then again came that smile on my face I was so waiting for this

                            So for those who face this problem can try this quick DIY (not necessarily with coconut though )

                            Thank you and thanks to the respected PSR Sir who helped me understand the problem from the inside.

                            And for engine oil, do listen to your little brother once and give a try to Elf Moto Gold which I mentioned few pages back. awesome feedback, equivalent to the Motul if not better

                            Wish you more and more happy hassle free miles
                            Glad to know that your carb slide problem is now resolved. Please don't thank me but one and only PSR Sir. I'm sure those remedies to the issues he had spelt on this forum is PRICELESS! If there is any way we could completely take a back up I would do so for future use, in case of site crashes out like it happened last time.

                            Read your post regarding Elf Moto Gold. Pg 1164. Will give a try next time.
                            RX100 1996 | Karizma 2004 | Karizma-R 2011 | RXZ 1999 | RX 135 1998 | RX 100 1993 | CBF150 2005 - 2011

                            2012 - Meghamalai | Kuttralam | 2011 Ooty | Munnar | 2010 Point Calimere | Horsley Hills | Yercaud

                            Comment

                            • #11759
                              Originally posted by phanikar View Post
                              The 110-90 18 tires from MRF (which goes into RE Classic) seems to be a better option. Haven't heard any bad reviews on usage of ZapperC / Zapper Q. Hopefully you can try that.
                              RE 350 uses 110/90-18 and RE500 uses 120/90-18 MRF Zapper Q,Heard that it has bad wet grip.

                              @ ACS bro

                              What will happen if we connect horns in series Connection?

                              Comment

                              • #11760
                                Originally posted by sunny_ View Post

                                And thanks I got the Carb slide issue solved by myself. took the bike for a spin on a nice road, was fed up with vehicles passing by and me stuck below 60 kph.. so went roadside searching for a small stone or something to hit the carb found a coconut smacked the side of the carb near the idle screw with engine revving in neutral around 5k rpm and yeah after a few hits it revved so fast beyond 9k rpm... and then again came that smile on my face I was so waiting for this
                                What I had suggested of hitting the carb with some blunt material is only for emergency needs..Remember hitting a carb ,with a stone or sharp object,can actually damage it beyond repair....
                                Best is to open the Air feed rubber hose near the carb., and lifting the slide with your finger....this will not damage the carb., in any way.
                                Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post
                                @ ACS bro

                                What will happen if we connect horns in series Connection?
                                If you connect two horns in series the voltage will get divided between the two ie., each horn will get half of the total voltage...in ZMA's case it will be 12V/2 = 6 volts for each horn.
                                When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

                                Comment

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