ATTENTION!!!

The RTR Rotor isnt a direct fit for the ZMA. There was a pic of a black ZMA with RTR Petal Rotor posted a while back in this thread, in that bike, the front mag was replaced with RTR 18' mag.

The RTR is a 17" and not 18".

Had to the other day change the o-ring below the petrol tank that holds the fuel gauge and also got a chance to clean the sensor unit.Sadly as usual didn't get the original o-ring and had to use a o-ring of a different bike but of the same size.
Now have to fill full tank to see if this is working or not. Also got confused the way the gauge come out and not quite sure if i have fitted it in the correct way. Only thing I remembered was to ensure that the connection lined up.

Awesome mods.
Just that the Michelin Sirac street tyre is not front tyre. Front tyre has different tread pattern.
How's the handling?

Thank you. First few 100km's were a pain, cause the bike started to feel like it would fall when cornering, meaning just give minimal lean and the bike would flick so low that you'd scrape your toe, but grip was awesome, even though the lean angle was aggressive the tires stuck like glue. Suspected alignment issue, but BlackPanther is running on a similar setup and he confirmed the same feeling at first. Now its ok, and after the Pulsar handle mod, the feedback has improved alot.

The ZMA rims have 5 bolts to hold the disk and the RTR have 6 bolts. So its not a fit at all.
The front end in the pic above is of the pulsar 220 (forks, alloys and mudguard) and disk setup of the RTR. IMO this is a 17" setup. The Pulsar have 6bolts and hence the RTR disk/rotor is a direct fit. Also, the RTR always had a 17" setup and never a 18".

The ZMA and Pulsar alloys are quite similar but the side wall (at the neck) is flat on the Pulsar. Hope the below image clarifies the doubt.

Thanks for confirming. I had ordered the RTR Rotor, but even after more than a months waiting, it still hasnt arrived, hence asked Vishak to source one from TVM, its then that he pointed out that theres a difference is number of mount points. So I believe for the time being am stuck with Stock Rotor as the only replacement option

And about the RTR Alloy doubt, heres a quote from Joel,

On Googling stumbled upon something that said the 160 RTR's had rear 18' and front 17', Strange

The Fuel Level Sensor is easy to check ,
1) Connect ohm meter to its terminals .
2) At Top position of Flot value of resistance is 10 ohm .
3) At Bottom position of Flot value of resistance is 90 ohm .
( Above values are for Karizma ZMR but i think these would be same for Karizma R )

And it is difficult to put the sensor unit back in tank .

Hello Aswin, saw your bike s picture with 180 dtsi handle bar, so how does it perform and does it scrap the shield and how would you describe the riding position is is it more sportier than the commutish handle bar thats stuck with our machine

Doesnt scrape anything.

Riding position is alot radical than stock, but its good, you wont sleep while riding the bike(Which was a common occurance for me.) And cornering has improved by leagues, now I feel that the stock handle bar actually amplified cornering feedback, cause now I can scrape the toe without getting that funny feeling that you're about to fall. I believe its cause our body is closer to the bike and it helps to keep the center of gravity of the bike intact while cornering and yeah you'd have to sit back abit to ride comfortable, which sportifies the riding position even more. The most noticeable improvement would be that the gear shifting will automatically improve, dont know the reason behind it, but after changing handle bars shifting, especially downshifts have become better than before. And now coming to the -'ves.

1. You need to drill holes for switch assembly, which took 3 people in my case cause the Pulsar handle was made of real thick stuff.
2. If you dont calculate the switch assembly position you'd face issues with throttle cable getting stuck which happened in my case, I solved it by removing the cable from chassis mounts and letting it hang freely.
3. First few kms will feel awkward, the first thing I did after leaving Aneesh's house was scrape the RVM's. But now they're real comfy and tucked in, will be going for a G2G by 5.30AM will post the longterm review in the evening.

Worst last of disc pads in my ZMA 2012

Hi friends,
My disc pads worn out in just 7400 kms last week. I had to replace it for new one @1100 rs.
I am not a hard breaker, i always use both brakes to stop. i am really worried about the price of pads.
I previously used Hunk, whose pads lasts for minimum 12000 km in just 340 rs. what's wrong in ZMA?
I also wanted to know which pads are straight fit to ZMA in cheaper price & same quality, and also does it cover warranty?

Anyway as per advice of psr sir, sriram sir, aneesh & ashwin bro, I am getting 40+ average in any condition.
my best mileage figure is 47km/l in highway.
Hats off to them.

Check if the new pads are constantly in touch with the rotor disc. BTW, my pads lasted 15k kms. Already ~22k on the ODO and they're good.
RTR's pads are a direct fit, but they'll wear out in 3-4k kms. (Cheaper than OE pads - no warranty)
Ninja's pads are a direct fit. Better braking. Last ~10k kms. (100 Rs costlier than OE pads - no warranty)

Now, a question from my side.
Ninja 250R/CBR 250R and CBR150R (not sure about R15) have a 6 bolt rotor setup. All have better, sharper brakes.
So, does it mean I can fit Ninja's rotor and its brake pads directly in my kari? Beacuse if its possible, then my braking distances shall improve by leaps!

hahahahaha

Karizma

Hello Aswin,thanks for your reply. I have done this same mod to my 2003 CBZ in the past and absolutly loved after, the looks the feel and actually I felt more at home after that mod though had to run to the workshop few times to drill the hole properly in exact places but the one thing that I noted was the width increase and the added wibrations on the rearview mirrors other that it made my CBZ a little bit better looker than the stock. Now I think I will do the same to my KARIZMA(the most under rated bike)

Hello Guys,

I apologize if I'm intruding into a topic. I have a 2008 ZMA which has done 29000KM. Can someone advise on the things I need to have replaced/checked in my next visit to the ASC?

On another note, after my last visit to the ASC, I've noticed that the mileage dropped drastically!! I filled up 10L of SHELL POWER. I've got to admit that the engine running is very smooth, however I've noticed that I've done 150km of city driving and I'm already down to the last pole