Here is a post on the engine oils used in Karizma Zmr(from best to worst

1)Shell 10w40 Ultra fully synth PROS-(Smooth gear shifts,low engine vibrations,cooler engine and better mileage( exrta 3-7kmpl depending on driving style)Drain interval 5K.CONS-If the bike is very old snd if engine seals are worn a bit,it can cause minor oil leak Cost rs 600-700 (Amazon.in)

2)Motul 300v 10w40 - PROS Holy cow the power and response increased with this oil,it felt the bike was on steroids.The only oil that keeps the engine cool more than any other oil despite harsh driving snd weather conditions.Even after 7500kms,while draining the oil,it was not completely dirty,felt that i could have used it fir 2500kms more.CONS- Sometimes u will feel more engibe vib and harder gear shifts (esters dont do well with hero honda abd suzuki bikes-basically japanese engines).Costly one liter is like rs 1200-1300.New Motul 300V2 has come which has organic components costs like rs 1300-1400 and people who have used it felt smoother engine and gear shifts compared to 300V.

3)Mobil 1 10w40 fully synth -Same as shell but costs rs 1000-1100 per liter.Leaving cost aside i felt Shell Ultra performs a bit better than mobil 1 ,but both are good oils.

4)ZIC SK M9 10W40 Fully Synth- Made in South Korea, supplied by S K lubricants in India.I am currently using this as a friend recomended It.Imediately after changing oil,i felt smooth gear shifts even without lubricating clutch cable.PROS Price,rs 500 for one liter at Amazon.CONS-Yet to find out as i have only drived 300km with it and performs similar to shell ultra and mobil 1

5)Shell Ax7 10w40 semi synth-Pros Good semi synth oil ,lasts 3K Kms,gives 30-40% (performace,mileage ,gear shifts and smooth engine) when compared to fully synth oil.Price Rs 350-400

6) Mobil Super Moto 10w30 semi synth-Mobil launched the new mineral and semi synth oil lines,havent used it,but i got reviews sayin that its on par with shell ax7.Price Rs 399-429 /one liter

7) Motul 10w30 techosynth - Semi synth oil..but harder gear shifts comapred to other semi synth oil and a bit more vibrations.Cons -cost Rs 500-550/liter

8)Shell 10w30 mineral oil- Great mineral oil at low price.Drain interval 2-2.5k.Price 230-270/liter.The better oil compared to mobil,castrol,valvoline and hero4t plus

9)Motul 10w30 mineral oil- Similar to Shell,but harder gear shifts

9)Hero4T plus - Stock oil, ran ZMR with it for 1000kms and shifted to Shell Ultra.Pros -Price rs 198 then..Rs 240-260 now.Even when bike was new,with stock oil,noted a lot of engine heat and bad engine vib at speeds.

10)Hp 10w30,Servo better not to use.

Additionally i have heard good reviews for Liquimoly( price very high) and Motul 5100 and 7100.

Kindly note an engine oil additive is not required for fully synth oil and oil flush is not required.

Drain Intervals 1)Fully Synth-5000-6000kms 2) Semi Synth 3000-4000kms 3) Mineral Oil 2000-3000kms.

If Karizma and Karizma Zmr owners have used other oils,kindly post your opinions.ThankaYou

Hi George,

Visually the rear shocks look ok, even I was fooled by the ASC mechanic.
I had a major back pain and also started taking medicines for it. Then I said, let me change the shocks any way as I had done 36k km.
I got ZMR's rear gas filled ones and after I removed the stock ones that were then on my bike, I simply rolled them on the floor.
The shocks had got a bend, so they did not roll over. This was not visible to naked eyes.

Had done 2.4k km on the ZMR's gas filled ones. Rode on highway, city (with the potholes and speed breakers) and a bit of off-roading.
They are much better the stock ones.

heavy clutch by design/nature.

Are they direct ZMA??

hi buddy,



plus, it's not their bike.



Trust me, some models like gs150r, slingshot have hard-notchy gearboxes and a heavy clutch by design/nature. It is something that suzuki was not able to match with the hondas - and the reason i do clutchless upshifts. I have pulled-in the clutch of zmas/zmrs parked in my office. They are way much lighter!



I wasn't sure, that's why asked psr for his thoughts. I prefer replacing the sheathed cable if it starts to run rough or the steel microfibers start coming off (indication that it will snap soon).

See mark zimmerman's note below:





i already do easy things like chain adjustment, oil changing and filter replacement. It's a tiny bit difficult for me, i stay in a high-rise apartment. Still am convinced that no-one can work on my bike to perfection like i can. Funnily, i have also learnt to adjust/improvise/compromise - if a o-ring can't be sourced, i shut the leak with anabond or even m-seal :d.



Your 8-year bike is in great shape and looking fantastic! Don't ever sell it.

P.s. To all, mark zimmerman has written a beautiful book "the essential guide to motorcycle maintenance". Except valve clearance adjustment, all basic theory/practice is discussed. This fool bought it at amazon, but later found it in the 'net'.

https://www.pdfdrive.com/the-essenti...183964782.html

Will it be wise to buy a used Karizma R now? I had briefly ridden one in 2011 and loved the ergonomics and smooth engine. Since you get one for pretty cheap these days i wouldn't mind buying one and riding it occasionally and for some long rides. Are parts still available if something goes wrong?

I had replaced both the rotor and pads at the same time at authorised service centre, the pads were completely worn out at 5-6 K kilometres. The rotor has got deep groves on it. I like to think this shouldn't have happened in such short span of riding. Now I have replaced the pads with new one. I used 400 grit sandpaper to clean the rotor and then pads were installed. The authorised service centre didn't have the rotor in stock so I guess when these pads wear out I will have to replace both the rotor and pads.

Rear Shocks are more or less universal when it comes to fitment with the exception of height and price.

I've installed Pulsar 135 shocks(2.2k a Pair) on a friends ZMA which is about 2 inches taller than stock as we'd installed CBZ-X fork tubes and springs at the front, which is similar height as the ZMR ones but cheaper by a whooping 1.1k per tube, the difference in price of springs are also double but they cost peanuts to begin, then again for some reason anything made for 'Karizma' carries a premium price tag.

Thanks goes to Akhil for suggesting the same and helping us save a lot of money in the process, speaking of him, he runs Apache shocks on his ZMA, which again are taller than stock.

Cheers,
A.P.

If you have accelerated pad wear even with a new rotor then you should be looking at whether the caliper is sliding fine along its studs, if not then you need to inspect and replace consumables i.e boots and lube it properly.

Also have a look at whether both pads have equal wear and tear, if its only one of them that has worn out excessively warranting the change you need to inspect the caliper pins for wear.

EDIT: Heck! While you have the caliper off why not simply rebuild it with a new major kit. Give the master cylinder some loving as well.

Ride Safe,
A.P.

Is the rear apache shocks and p135 having same height ?

I'm looking to replace my ZMR shocks and looking for little taller ones than stock but not very tall.

As per your suggestion I checked the caliper its not sliding well along it's studds. Sorry to ask but, I don't know what is boots.

You'd need to rebuild the caliper.

Boots are the consumable rubber bits other than the Caliper Seals, observe parts 8 and 9 in the below image;



Do contemplate changing the pins as well if they're grooved.

If at all there is any confusion it'd be cleared on its own with the help of commonsense after you take the caliper apart, it is just that simple a piece of hardware, the only basic understanding you need to have is that the design is called a floating caliper for a reason.



Ideally they should be evenly worn, so its safe to presume that the caliper isn't sliding/floating as per its design which warrants a rebuild.



This is a job best done by oneself and for good reason considering the lackluster attitude of mechanics irrespective of whether its FNG's or ASC's and the criticality of the component at hand.



As I said, this isn't complicated at all, all you need is commonsense.

A thumb rule to follow is to use only 6 point box spanners rather than 12 point ones. And when it comes to torquing a harder metal bolt on a softer metal casing it is only commonsense to use torque moderately. And finally, use threadlocker.

Cheers,
A.P.

Hi,

Im facing engine problems in my Karizma R 2012 model.Need your help and comments to the fix the issue .I have quoted my problem below.

1)I have already rebored as my bike engine Seized due to missed to change Oil. After 5 months Now getting more Duk duk sound from engine (not timming tensor ) when the bike is in standby mode.

2)Engine getting heating soon.

3)Oil leaking form packing and some time when i start the bike using self start.Some big Kadak sound coming.not sure why?

4)what are the best solution to fix the above issue

5)i would like to repair above problem how much it will cost(Rs).

6)Im from Chennai any one from Chennai ,is there any best mechanic there for karizma engine repairing?

Please answer on the question vise.Thanks and waiting for you comments and advice.

By
Uday