Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

[l_gbabuin]

Dear abhi and sajt,
need your help,i converted my bike to full dc by ungrounding the coil connecting to ape rr routing all power supply need from ape rr,connecting a 9ah amps meter in between ape rr and 2.5ah existing battery.everything is fine,but with headlights on when brake applied ammeter reads negative upto 2amps.which means my coil is not able to supply the additional brake light 20watts,with headlight on.but normally while running engine with headlight on the meter reads zero.when engine off headlight on meter reads 3-4 amps.
iam planning to do coil winding,i need your help in this,
what is epoxy?is it araldite?how much quantity,do i have to buy?will i get that teflon wire to bring output from coil to outside the engine?to connect to ape rr?will existing wire that is connected to the winding can be used after new coil winding or not?
19swg 8-10 turns,7-10 layers alternate with clockwise and anticlockwise,filling all 8poles will this do/after winding apply epoxy?how many grams of copper wire to buy?is there any quality in that?i know a mechanic to remove the stator coil,and i know a motor coil winding shop who is known to me for winding coils.will this be sucessfull.the stator coil screws are very tight,and iam unable to remove the stator coil on my own,so iam going to mechanic for that.please guide me.
what do you feel? is that brake light and indicators drawing power from battery when headlight on is it ok?will it be ok if i replace with xenon kit and put a big 9ah battery?or is coil winding a must?i wish to go only by your suggestion.

[NANOtechnology]

Dear abhi and sajt,
need your help,i converted my bike to full dc by ungrounding the coil connecting to ape rr routing all power supply need from ape rr,connecting a 9ah amps meter in between ape rr and 2.5ah existing battery.everything is fine,but with headlights on when brake applied ammeter reads negative upto 2amps.which means my coil is not able to supply the additional brake light 20watts,with headlight on.but normally while running engine with headlight on the meter reads zero.when engine off headlight on meter reads 3-4 amps.
iam planning to do coil winding,i need your help in this,
what is epoxy?is it araldite?how much quantity,do i have to buy?will i get that teflon wire to bring output from coil to outside the engine?to connect to ape rr?will existing wire that is connected to the winding can be used after new coil winding or not?
19swg 8-10 turns,7-10 layers alternate with clockwise and anticlockwise,filling all 8poles will this do/after winding apply epoxy?how many grams of copper wire to buy?is there any quality in that?i know a mechanic to remove the stator coil,and i know a motor coil winding shop who is known to me for winding coils.will this be sucessfull.the stator coil screws are very tight,and iam unable to remove the stator coil on my own,so iam going to mechanic for that.please guide me.
what do you feel? is that brake light and indicators drawing power from battery when headlight on is it ok?will it be ok if i replace with xenon kit and put a big 9ah battery?or is coil winding a must?i wish to go only by your suggestion.

buy 400 grams of copper wire.
coating it over with araldite is an optional choice, but your winding guy will do it anyway.
normally all these copper wires are enameled so this step is not very much needed.

if you have a higher amp battery, it will send more output, if you have a lower amp one, it will give lower output.
besides, the guy who's rewinding the coil, does he have any experience in bike's stator ??

yes, these screws are very very tight, i slipped most of mine by trying it, better get it done by a mech.

[l_gbabuin]

in this post http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/universa...-all-dc-7.html
abhi has said it is 200gms,here you say it is 400gms,iam confused.the coil winding guy winds coils for motors and pumpset, he hasnt wound any stator.i have 8pole stator and now how many turns of wire should i wind 19 gauge?i want to put 90/100watts halogen.

[NANOtechnology]

in this post http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/universa...-all-dc-7.html
abhi has said it is 200gms,here you say it is 400gms,iam confused.the coil winding guy winds coils for motors and pumpset, he hasnt wound any stator.i have 8pole stator and now how many turns of wire should i wind 19 gauge?i want to put 90/100watts halogen.

I've winded 19 guage wire to run 2 hid's all the time.
i bought 300 grams of wire, i have only 7 poles and after finishing it up, only 3-4 feet of wire was left.
since you have 8 poles instead of 7, will only EXTRA 4 feet be enough ??

besides even if you go for extra wire, it won't hurt..
you will at-least need 350 grams to fill each and every pole to its very very brim..

[l_gbabuin]

yes,thanks,i will buy 400gms of copper wire,and wind it.will post you as soon as i complete.but what about the lead wire that is needed to bring the supply out of the stator to outside the stator cover?will the existing lead wire can be used after winding?

[NANOtechnology]

yes, existing wire can be used easily, but if possible go for thicker wire, in my bike's case, the cork kinda thing is fused with the wire, so can't replace it, if you can slide it, go for 5mm wire, will help..

[abhijeet080808]

Dear abhi and sajt,
need your help,i converted my bike to full dc by ungrounding the coil connecting to ape rr routing all power supply need from ape rr,connecting a 9ah amps meter in between ape rr and 2.5ah existing battery.everything is fine,but with headlights on when brake applied ammeter reads negative upto 2amps.which means my coil is not able to supply the additional brake light 20watts,with headlight on.but normally while running engine with headlight on the meter reads zero.when engine off headlight on meter reads 3-4 amps.
iam planning to do coil winding,i need your help in this,
what is epoxy?is it araldite?how much quantity,do i have to buy?will i get that teflon wire to bring output from coil to outside the engine?to connect to ape rr?will existing wire that is connected to the winding can be used after new coil winding or not?
19swg 8-10 turns,7-10 layers alternate with clockwise and anticlockwise,filling all 8poles will this do/after winding apply epoxy?how many grams of copper wire to buy?is there any quality in that?i know a mechanic to remove the stator coil,and i know a motor coil winding shop who is known to me for winding coils.will this be sucessfull.the stator coil screws are very tight,and iam unable to remove the stator coil on my own,so iam going to mechanic for that.please guide me.
what do you feel? is that brake light and indicators drawing power from battery when headlight on is it ok?will it be ok if i replace with xenon kit and put a big 9ah battery?or is coil winding a must?i wish to go only by your suggestion.

400g is the right quantity. USE HIGH QUALITY WIRE - it is not fun if you have to rewind it again and again. Wind each coil in alternate fashion compared to the previous coil. Wind it to the brim - more will not hurt. At the end cover the coils with a layer of electrical varnish. On the top of that use araldite. Yours has the coil dipped in engine coil, so some protection is needed. Also ,use thicker wires all the way from the coil to the RR unit. Else you will loose some power in the current wires which will heat up.

[discoverVinu]

Hi Guys,

I have one question to all.
Is there anybody here who has just swapped the Stock RR with Ape RR to the Charging coil only and got good charging rates.

I'm asking this because I donot want to Re-wind/convert to full DC. and still be able to Run HID from the battery with Improved rate of Charging provided by the Ape RR with the Stock charging coil only.

Is this possible, anybody tried? my motto is to Run Avy Coil + nightbreaker setup with Ape RR hooked to charging coil which inturn charges battery powering HID in a modified spotlamp..

BTW mine is Pulsar 150UGIII.

[sajjt]

Ganesh, sorry for the late reply, been offline for 3 days.

I've nothing much to contribute as Nano & Abhi 'd given a very simple way of how things to be done.

Since you dont've any plans to plonk 2 HIDs 19G wire will do the job, if you plans to follow Nano, then 17G is the best and its a tried and tested by him and Dr. Vivek.

I would say if you can count any one of the stock poles coil turns by cutting one of the poles winding to get a cross section(Ur electrician should know this trick), that should be the min no of turns to be applied. In case of Pulsars, we need to have a min 12ft length as per Dr.Vivek's finding, I didnt've that patience to go with that. If u happends to wind less turns, in lower rpms the battery drain wont be compensated properly especially city/b2b traffic. So try to push in max turns and needless to say a neat winding will ensure optimum performance.

If you do the rewinding from the winder, then he knows how to insulate it. Like Abhi said, electrical varnish will do the job and there wont be any need of epoxy(Yes, Aralidite is an Epoxy)

Another thing to be noted is try to measure the current with no load with a 9AH battery, so that we know the exact pumping rate with the stock coils. If its around 3A between 2-3K then its sufficient to drive a HID, but being noted that with tail light+HL on your reading was -2 so that part may be out of question.

Thank you once again for extending your help for my FM modulator query and I'll keep you updated once I've some pics.

[l_gbabuin]

Dear Sajjt,abhi,nanotec,
now i have given the stator to coil winding person,he checked the winding and told me that it is nearly 21 or 22 gauge,and 65 turns per pole,total 8poles.i asked him to see if 18gauge can be wounded,he said if 18 gauge then turns will be 45,i thought this 45 turns per pole will not give enough charging voltage at low rpm's(i usually drive at 30kms/hr in night as the roads i take to reach home are bumpy).so i asked to wind with 19gauge,he said he will try to accomodate 65turns,and apply epoxy.abhi has said 19 gauge 8-10 turns,6-7 layer for 7 poles,but i have 8poles,does that mean anything strange?suppose if the coil winding person winds 50 turns of 19gauge in all 8 poles,will i be able to upgrade to 90watts bulb? i have already given the stator coil for winding,o no point in panicking lets hope for the best.
today before removing the stator i checked the charging voltage when my ammeter was reading zero even when i raced my engine,the battery terminal voltage was 14.5-14.6,when i switched on my headlight it was 13.5v.
iam happy to say my ape rr is good.
will get back to you after modification.

[NANOtechnology]

if you use 19 guage wire, its can be winded till 58 no of turns, mine is the same.
but remember, fill it up till the brim, i believe i've been too late to post, but anyway even if say the number of turns are a bit less like say 58 instead if 65, you are getting 4 extra poles aren't you ??

so even the other way around, its still an upgrade to the charging.
hope you don't get disappointed after getting your coil back.
besides, did you REMIND the coil guy to keep both the ends completely ungrounded ?

[drvmtm]

well the funda is simple...as tested by me....

19 awg wire the best quality 12.5 feet per pole on avenger coil core which is bigger the stock pulser coil core=7 amps max @7k rpm..

18 awg wire the best quality 12.5 feet per pole on avenger coil core which is bigger the stock pulser coil core=8 amps max@7 k rpm.

17 awgthe best quality 12.5 feet per pole on avenger coil core which is bigger the stock pulser coil core=12 amps @6k rpm.

so you will ask why you need 17 gauge anyway??well as for the low rpm the 17 can pull 3 yes 3 hids without a problem.
if you want to run 2 hids you need 17~18 gauge.
if you want to run 90/100 halo one bulb obviously,then 19 gauge will also do dont be so paniky,even if the winds are a bit less lets say 10-11 feet per pole why?

now i will write something it the best way to exlplain....

HID BULBS ARE LIKE MEAN BIT*HY GIRLFRIENDS WHO WILL SUCK THE LAST AMOUNT OF MONEY FROM YOU AND WHEN YOU HAVE NO MONEY THEY WILL LEAVE YOU..
girlfriend=hid
money=battery voltage
leave you=sudden switching off if the voltage below 10 volts..

ON THE OTHER HAND HALOGEN BULBS ARE LIKE VERY GOOD STEADY WIVES,THEY WILL ADJUST THEM SELVES IF YOU DONT HAVE MONEY IN YOUR POCKET ,AND THEY NEVER NEVER LEAVE YOU....

EG..
a halogen bulb 100 watts @13 volts consumes~7.7 amps

now if the voltage drops it will loose its intensity and drop its consumption,,frankly speaking you will never know its a bit less intence as the loss is never more then 10-15%.
but at the same time if you run hids it will drain the battery in 2 hours max but with a 90/100 hALO you will be running 5+hours tiptop even with a bit less charging.

hope it helps...

anyway after altering and playing a bit i got myself a hella comet spotlamp ,fitted hid 4300k in that,made a wiring kit with 40 amp relay ,rectified the vibration problem of the bixenon hid bulb and fitted all in the bike,phew.......back to ug 3 looks...




not happy with the spot lamp position though,,,it s too eye catchy,,
thinkin of fittin it here...

[l_gbabuin]

my coil had 8 poles filled with 20 gauge wire with 65 turns each all connected in series and given to rectifier to charge battery,and a tapping at 6 th pole was given to headlight,all well as to rr.now i have wound 70 turns of 19 gauge in all poles,
now wire thickness has been changed from 20 to 19,number of turns have been increased from 520 turns total to 560 turns.i have not gained any poles extra as you think.i have used nearly 300-350 gms of copper wire.applied epoxy,waiting for that to dry.

[l_gbabuin]

thankyou,
dr,nano,sajjt,abhi for your support.

[NANOtechnology]

@ l_gbabuin

if your coil is installed back on the bike, do post the pics of the coil and the readings too with a multimeter.