Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

[sajjt]

I removed the kicker for reducing weight. Now I have to put it back...

Wow, that's a wonderful idea to reduce the weight. Pls don't remove the wheels to save more oil

[sajjt]

i wish to know as WHY you want to do this instead of making it all DC ??
if you are buying an APE RR, Rewinding the coil too, then why don't you want full dc ??

This is why I said "strange".

[sajjt]

sajjit bhai goin for your recommended space for aux hella the left crash guard,,thanks for the tip

Not my idea, Its a universal trend bro.

But I've to accept ur current position will give better lighting than on crash guard.

[drvmtm]

i have a hella comet 550,which type of hid can i plonk in? h4,h7??

i used h3v hid 4300k.its not a direct fit,had to drill the back case to accomodate the hid bulb but finishing is nice because of hid grommet. bulb is also kept in place by g i wires,the clip cannot be used but must say ,the outcome is too cool.which bike do u have.i looked at 550,it was tooo big but def the output is good.

[velociraptor13]

i used h3v hid 4300k.its not a direct fit,had to drill the back case to accomodate the hid bulb but finishing is nice because of hid grommet. bulb is also kept in place by g i wires,the clip cannot be used but must say ,the outcome is too cool.which bike do u have.i looked at 550,it was tooo big but def the output is good.

i have a unicorn and a 220,i intend to convert the unicorn to full dc

[discoverVinu]

i wish to know as WHY you want to do this instead of making it all DC ??
if you are buying an APE RR, Rewinding the coil too, then why don't you want full dc ??

Hi NANO/Sajjt,

There is a reason for this idea/stupidity.

The stock switch gear doesn't support >500milliamp current, first of all there are no hard copper contact type switches which does the job in other bikes. all switches are nothing but sensors and all electricals are controlled by electronic BCU.
sensor is very similer to this one below,

I tried converting to Full DC, isolated the ground in Stator, connected an Ape RR to the lighting coil and connected to battery and the Yellow out from Stock RR to the IGN +, result= digital meters lights off, headlight didnot switch on, reason= My BCU recognises AC voltage only into the headlight circuit. moreover I didn't wanted to fiddle with stock (sophisticated)switch gear.

So finally ended up undoing all the Mod and changed the Mod to Avy stator+Nightbreaker set up.

now My Idea is to get a switch like this and hook up HID+relay in a suitably modified Spotlamp( I'm already done with Spot lamp modification. Idea= convert spot lamp to low beam, Low beam= less glares, done testing also. I have ordered heat shrink, waiting for heat shrink to complete the electrical routing) to battery which will be getting power from rewound Charging coil+Ape RR. leaving the AC circuit as it is to have Dim/dippability and stock switch gear functionality..this also helps me from getting tempted to Use HID which will be in Spotlamp, inside the city..hope this makes sense...

[NANOtechnology]

Hi NANO/Sajjt,

There is a reason for this idea/stupidity.

The stock switch gear doesn't support >500milliamp current, first of all there are no hard copper contact type switches which does the job in other bikes. all switches are nothing but sensors and all electricals are controlled by electronic BCU.
sensor is very similer to this one below,

I tried converting to Full DC, isolated the ground in Stator, connected an Ape RR to the lighting coil and connected to battery and the Yellow out from Stock RR to the IGN +, result= digital meters lights off, headlight didnot switch on, reason= My BCU recognises AC voltage only into the headlight circuit. moreover I didn't wanted to fiddle with stock (sophisticated)switch gear.

So finally ended up undoing all the Mod and changed the Mod to Avy stator+Nightbreaker set up.

now My Idea is to get a switch like this and hook up HID+relay in a suitably modified Spotlamp( I'm already done with Spot lamp modification. Idea= convert spot lamp to low beam, Low beam= less glares, done testing also. I have ordered heat shrink, waiting for heat shrink to complete the electrical routing) to battery which will be getting power from rewound Charging coil+Ape RR. leaving the AC circuit as it is to have Dim/dippability and stock switch gear functionality..this also helps me from getting tempted to Use HID which will be in Spotlamp, inside the city..hope this makes sense...

this is why RELAYS are made my friend, go and plonk a relay, your switch would even support a 120w bulb then, besides you will need to mod your BCU to make it run on full dc, it can be done easily, you will just have to route a wire from the stator, pawan chirmade knows this very well, PM him or ask lighting gurus to throw some more light.

[sajjt]

Hi NANO/Sajjt,

There is a reason for this idea/stupidity.

The stock switch gear doesn't support >500milliamp current, first of all there are no hard copper contact type switches which does the job in other bikes. all switches are nothing but sensors and all electricals are controlled by electronic BCU.
sensor is very similer to this one below,

I tried converting to Full DC, isolated the ground in Stator, connected an Ape RR to the lighting coil and connected to battery and the Yellow out from Stock RR to the IGN +, result= digital meters lights off, headlight didnot switch on, reason= My BCU recognises AC voltage only into the headlight circuit. moreover I didn't wanted to fiddle with stock (sophisticated)switch gear.

So finally ended up undoing all the Mod and changed the Mod to Avy stator+Nightbreaker set up.

now My Idea is to get a switch like this and hook up HID+relay in a suitably modified Spotlamp( I'm already done with Spot lamp modification. Idea= convert spot lamp to low beam, Low beam= less glares, done testing also. I have ordered heat shrink, waiting for heat shrink to complete the electrical routing) to battery which will be getting power from rewound Charging coil+Ape RR. leaving the AC circuit as it is to have Dim/dippability and stock switch gear functionality..this also helps me from getting tempted to Use HID which will be in Spotlamp, inside the city..hope this makes sense...

Vinu, thats a very convenient/adaptive/easy method to ignore the smart box U r so practical man at the same time bit lazy too.

I know fiddling with BCU is a pain, I think its something wrong with the connections. Not sure just my assumption, Try the APE RR out + to the battery +ve, so that the BCU may not sense it. Usually Ign switch contacts are not capable of handling higher amps, so it may be the reason BCU refuses to take it.

UG3 versions are coming with contact less switches which are weather proof, loose contact free and ensures good contacts when its activated as its being monitored by a smart box called BCU.

BCU works only on DC, AC is being converted within that. So its possible.Being with a non BCU version cant contribute much in this. Let the others share their views on it.

[discoverVinu]

Hi Sajjt.

I know fiddling with BCU is a pain, I think its something wrong with the connections. Not sure just my assumption, Try the APE RR out + to the battery +ve, so that the BCU may not sense it. Usually Ign switch contacts are not capable of handling higher amps, so it may be the reason BCU refuses to take it.

I tried connecting the Yellow RR out to the Battery+ even it didn't work, while reverting when I connected AC out from Stock RR it was working fine.

UG3 versions are coming with contact less switches which are weather proof, loose contact free and ensures good contacts when its activated as its being monitored by a smart box called BCU.



BCU works only on DC, AC is being converted within that. So its possible.Being with a non BCU version cant contribute much in this. Let the others share their views on it.

Small correction here. The BCU works on DC similer to relay, gets power from battery for operation but, switches on/off AC voltage to the headlamp.

[drvmtm]

Hi Sajjt.

I know fiddling with BCU is a pain, I think its something wrong with the connections. Not sure just my assumption, Try the APE RR out + to the battery +ve, so that the BCU may not sense it. Usually Ign switch contacts are not capable of handling higher amps, so it may be the reason BCU refuses to take it.

I tried connecting the Yellow RR out to the Battery+ even it didn't work, while reverting when I connected AC out from Stock RR it was working fine.

UG3 versions are coming with contact less switches which are weather proof, loose contact free and ensures good contacts when its activated as its being monitored by a smart box called BCU.



BCU works only on DC, AC is being converted within that. So its possible.Being with a non BCU version cant contribute much in this. Let the others share their views on it.

Small correction here. The BCU works on DC similer to relay, gets power from battery for operation but, switches on/off AC voltage to the headlamp.

whats the big deal,dont weast your energy for that stupid bcu,its not worth it,instead smile that the price of parts are really less of pulsar.....

throw away that bcu with the contactless switchgears and use ug 2 type switches,simple.ur digi meter will work as before,noe u can do what ever the hell u want...

pric e of the switch is 600~700 inr max..and both total not single..

[drvmtm]

hi nano/sajjt,

there is a reason for this idea/stupidity.


I tried converting to full dc, isolated the ground in stator, connected an ape rr to the lighting coil and connected to battery and the yellow out from stock rr to the ign

this means you converted the system to dc.

result= digital meters lights off, headlight didnot switch on, reason= my bcu recognises ac voltage only into the headlight circuit.

arre you didnt gave them any power only ,how can they light on?if you look closly the follwing didnt light up..

1. met console
2. headlight
3. switch gear
4. tail lamp which switches on with headlight
5. numberplate ligtht.
6. FRONT WOLF EYE LIGHTS

these are in a diff phase then the dc phase which you have to power up from the battery.
there isa yellow wire which comes out from the stock rr and goes to the main wiring.connect that to batt positive via ign switch.use relay for headlamp,it will work.
Moral of the story=you have to give power to the ac circuit also only then it will work.



moreover i didn't wanted to fiddle with stock (sophisticated)switch gear.

haa,you made me laugh
so finally ended up undoing all the mod and changed the mod to avy stator+nightbreaker set up.

see the bold caps

[Anish71]

Hi everyone!
I have a Honda Dio(2010), i want to convert it to full DC. can you people guide me. all the mods discussed in this thread is related to pulsars and unicorns. is the process for nongeared scooties same??

[gajah_gendut]

anybody has experience installing hid on pulsar 180 ug4?

bcu won't give countinous current supply to turn the relays on. i thought it has current sense. won't send current if light load was under preset value (about 3amps). relays contonuesly swith on and off. it maight bcu thought the bulb not present.

those problems was solved, but i had to replace contactless switch and bcu with mechanical switch from pulsar 135.

[Deepak Karanth]

Pulsar 150 UG3 - DC conversion Help required

Hi rahuldevnath,

I want to convert the lighting of my Pulsar UG3 to all DC.
The circuits mentioned by you are a bit confusing (only to me I guess )
I just created a diagram of what I understood from your post.
Please let me know whether i'm correct:-
1)The yellow wire going to BCU from strator needs to be cut - connect it to the custom rectifier - to battery for charging.
2)And DC supply +ve - to switch - to BCU for lighting.

Waiting for your guidance.

[discoverVinu]

anybody has experience installing hid on pulsar 180 ug4?

bcu won't give countinous current supply to turn the relays on. i thought it has current sense. won't send current if light load was under preset value (about 3amps). relays contonuesly swith on and off. it maight bcu thought the bulb not present.

those problems was solved, but i had to replace contactless switch and bcu with mechanical switch from pulsar 135.

Hi Gajah,

there is same problem with UG3 also, the BCU won't take DC straight away, we need to bypass BCU+ switch gear to make Full DC.

Is you digital console backlights working in running condition? after conversion?