Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

[Raneet]

Whats his budget ? You will need a minimum or 1500rs for converting to DC which includes APE RR - 1111rs, Coil rewind and other tit bits 400rs.

Other cheapest way to simply make the headlight and pilot run on DC but here your battery can't sustain the load.

This thread has a detailed explanation on how to achieve full DC.

I am not sure if UG4 RR unit is direct fit.

it's funny but true almost all pulsars have everything direct fit. i have came across this thread and many a times have i found people speaking of ape rectifier unit. Can you throw some light on that? I mean what's so special and different about it? Well i know this is a silly question but i just know simple electronics don't know much in details. Please enlighten me. I'm a quick learner.

[Raneet]

Whats his budget ? You will need a minimum or 1500rs for converting to DC which includes APE RR - 1111rs, Coil rewind and other tit bits 400rs.

Other cheapest way to simply make the headlight and pilot run on DC but here your battery can't sustain the load.

This thread has a detailed explanation on how to achieve full DC.

I am not sure if UG4 RR unit is direct fit.

and yes when i get the coil rewind done,(i will go with my friend while the process) what do i tell the mechanic? I mean any specifications regarding the type and width of wire to be used and the number oil rewinds, etc?

[discoverVinu]

and yes when i get the coil rewind done,(i will go with my friend while the process) what do i tell the mechanic? I mean any specifications regarding the type and width of wire to be used and the number oil rewinds, etc?

Raneet,

Everybody prefers Ape RR because, it is as simple as we can get , two grey wires for alternator coil connection, black to the ground and Yellow wire to the Battery "+" terminal. No messing of extra wires, simple and easy to connect moreover it can take upto 20A of current fool proof.

when you are getting your coil rewound tell him to wind in single phase with 19 gauge/tell him your requirement of power like HID(1 or 2) or Halo(55/60 or 100W) power requirement, He will take care of other things.When I got My coil rewound I just asked Him I want to run 35W HID+55/60W Halo combi.

[Raneet]

Raneet,

Everybody prefers Ape RR because, it is as simple as we can get , two grey wires for alternator coil connection, black to the ground and Yellow wire to the Battery "+" terminal. No messing of extra wires, simple and easy to connect moreover it can take upto 20A of current fool proof.

when you are getting your coil rewound tell him to wind in single phase with 19 gauge/tell him your requirement of power like HID(1 or 2) or Halo(55/60 or 100W) power requirement, He will take care of other things.When I got My coil rewound I just asked Him I want to run 35W HID+55/60W Halo combi.

thanks a lot. The way you explained was very short but crippy. thanks.. Another question i have.. Why do i need to change the stock rectifier unit.? Rectifier units only regulates the current right? Is the stock having less capacity or is it some other reason.?

[discoverVinu]

thanks a lot. The way you explained was very short but crippy. thanks.. Another question i have.. Why do i need to change the stock rectifier unit.? Rectifier units only regulates the current right? Is the stock having less capacity or is it some other reason.?

Hi Raneet,

RR is used to regulate Current+Voltage.
Stock RR is designed to work with three poles of alternator i,e max of 2Amps with stock coil , when you change the coil winding to single phase, EMF is generated from 7 poles out of 8( one pole is for ignition coil) and more over higher gauge than stock also contributes to high induced EMF which Stock RR is not designed to handle, it will go kaput in a while which may result in damaged electricals......( this mod is a serious business don't take it lightly, only go for OEM Ape RR)

There are people here who had dared to experiment all possible things so finally gave up and found out Ape RR is the Best for the Job as it is charging a 32 to 60ah battery in its intended vehicle and capacle of handling 20A max.

Imp: Be advised, converting to full DC in pulsar150dtsi-UG3 is a tricky business, if you convert to full DC you can't use Stock wiring harness switches to turn on/off the Headlamp. contact Abhijeet/DRVMTM for more help on this.

[Raneet]

Hi Raneet,

RR is used to regulate Current+Voltage.
Stock RR is designed to work with three poles of alternator i,e max of 2Amps with stock coil , when you change the coil winding to single phase, EMF is generated from 7 poles out of 8( one pole is for ignition coil) and more over higher gauge than stock also contributes to high induced EMF which Stock RR is not designed to handle, it will go kaput in a while which may result in damaged electricals......( this mod is a serious business don't take it lightly, only go for OEM Ape RR)

There are people here who had dared to experiment all possible things so finally gave up and found out Ape RR is the Best for the Job as it is charging a 32 to 60ah battery in its intended vehicle and capacle of handling 20A max.

Imp: Be advised, converting to full DC in pulsar150dtsi-UG3 is a tricky business, if you convert to full DC you can't use Stock wiring harness switches to turn on/off the Headlamp. contact Abhijeet/DRVMTM for more help on this.

thanks a ton buddy. Will tell my friend about the information i got. And to buy the ape rr unit, what do i tell at the shop? Just ape rr unit? Or is there something more specific?

[discoverVinu]

thanks a ton buddy. Will tell my friend about the information i got. And to buy the ape rr unit, what do i tell at the shop? Just ape rr unit? Or is there something more specific?

@Raneet,

Go back few pages in this thread you will find Ape RR photo with the Part number, donot go for Local ones which cost 400Rs to 700Rs,genuine one will cost you not less than 1000Rs.
fisrt ask "Ape RR" if he doesnot understand ask him to give "Ape Regulator" take a print of the photo/note down the part number it will be easy to show to them,dealers understand part numbers easily than names.

[Raneet]

@Raneet,

Go back few pages in this thread you will find Ape RR photo with the Part number, donot go for Local ones which cost 400Rs to 700Rs,genuine one will cost you not less than 1000Rs.
fisrt ask "Ape RR" if he doesnot understand ask him to give "Ape Regulator" take a print of the photo/note down the part number it will be easy to show to them,dealers understand part numbers easily than names.

thank you.it was a lot of help. Are these ape rr better than our stock pulsar ug4 rr units? Want to know out of curiosity.

[lijok]

thank you.it was a lot of help. Are these ape rr better than our stock pulsar ug4 rr units? Want to know out of curiosity.

There are people here who had dared to experiment all possible things so finally gave up and found out Ape RR is the Best for the Job as it is charging a 32 to 60ah battery in its intended vehicle and capacle of handling 20A max.

Refer the above.

[anagaraj]

Guys,
Can some one sugesst me where I can get my pulsar coil winding done in chennai? any help on this would be greatly appreciated.

[Raneet]

Refer the above.

actually wanted to know the ccapacity of the ug4 stock rr units... i have pulsar 220 dtsi...

[discoverVinu]

actually wanted to know the ccapacity of the ug4 stock rr units... i have pulsar 220 dtsi...

you didn't mention you are doing it on your P220
Which model is yours I mean Manufacturing date?
Does your headlight flicker while Idling? if not your's is already on Full DC, if Yes your's is Identical to other pulsars like your friend's remember the Same battery in all pulsars!!!.

Well, Stock pulsar 180Ug3 as in your friend's case Stock RR has dual role i,e. regulate AC current for running Headlight+regulate and rectify to DC for running other electricals like breaklight, horn, indicators etc. to do this Stock alternator will have Two seperate coils( charging coil + headlight coil).
it means Stock RR has charging capacity of 1.5 to 2 Amps at 15V DC Max(if your's is not full DC this is applicable to your P220 also, only applicable to charging coil+RR part). after converting to full DC you need 5 amps Minimum for Headlight itself So stock RR is out of question.

So it is the Thumb rule for all bikes that APE RR is must for converting to Full DC, you might not like to spend more than 3k to 5K for replacing the burnt electricals and Speedo for using Stock RR in place of Ape RR...

[sajjt]

you didn't mention you are doing it on your P220
Which model is yours I mean Manufacturing date?
Does your headlight flicker while Idling? if not your's is already on Full DC, if Yes your's is Identical to other pulsars like your friend's remember the Same battery in all pulsars!!!.

Well, Stock pulsar 180Ug3 as in your friend's case Stock RR has dual role i,e. regulate AC current for running Headlight+regulate and rectify to DC for running other electricals like breaklight, horn, indicators etc. to do this Stock alternator will have Two seperate coils( charging coil + headlight coil).
it means Stock RR has charging capacity of 1.5 to 2 Amps at 15V DC Max(if your's is not full DC this is applicable to your P220 also, only applicable to charging coil+RR part). after converting to full DC you need 5 amps Minimum for Headlight itself So stock RR is out of question.

So it is the Thumb rule for all bikes that APE RR is must for converting to Full DC, you might not like to spend more than 3k to 5K for replacing the burnt electricals and Speedo for using Stock RR in place of Ape RR...

Vinu, stock RR wont ditch u by burning anything in case if you use with a rewinded coil. It cant tap all the current supplied by the coil to the battery thereby it turns out to be the DC conversion incomplete.

P220 is a full DC from the day one it rolled out from the factory and its capable of running 2 HIDs, so whats cooking up?

We've few replacement for APE RR with single phase alternator, u can use Minidoor RR or even the GC 1000 RR which has got a battery monitor lead too. Price & Size wise these are in higher range than our beloved APE.

[discoverVinu]

@sajjt,

Good to see you again,

Vinu, stock RR wont ditch u by burning anything in case if you use with a rewinded coil. It cant tap all the current supplied by the coil to the battery thereby it turns out to be the DC conversion incomplete.

It wont ditch in a day but the way it was overheating in my case was evident that it would in a week or two....(mine was Pulsar 150 Stock RR copuled with 17gauge full wave winding on all 7 poles).

P220 is a full DC from the day one it rolled out from the factory and its capable of running 2 HIDs, so whats cooking up?

I didn't know that, that's why I raised the question....

We've few replacement for APE RR with single phase alternator, u can use Minidoor RR or even the GC 1000 RR which has got a battery monitor lead too. Price & Size wise these are in higher range than our beloved APE.

well, I have tried GC1000 RR, I was not able to figure out how to use the battery monitor thing. I asked for help on this remember!!! so you can omitt GC100 RR and the other Ape RR which had extra leads, so we are left with only two options APE/Minidor RR for easy and hassle free installation.

And i'm not trying to argue this is just my opinion based on my own hands on experience....

[Raneet]

you didn't mention you are doing it on your P220
Which model is yours I mean Manufacturing date?
Does your headlight flicker while Idling? if not your's is already on Full DC, if Yes your's is Identical to other pulsars like your friend's remember the Same battery in all pulsars!!!.

Well, Stock pulsar 180Ug3 as in your friend's case Stock RR has dual role i,e. regulate AC current for running Headlight+regulate and rectify to DC for running other electricals like breaklight, horn, indicators etc. to do this Stock alternator will have Two seperate coils( charging coil + headlight coil).
it means Stock RR has charging capacity of 1.5 to 2 Amps at 15V DC Max(if your's is not full DC this is applicable to your P220 also, only applicable to charging coil+RR part). after converting to full DC you need 5 amps Minimum for Headlight itself So stock RR is out of question.

So it is the Thumb rule for all bikes that APE RR is must for converting to Full DC, you might not like to spend more than 3k to 5K for replacing the burnt electricals and Speedo for using Stock RR in place of Ape RR...

no no i'm not doing anything on mine... the dc setup is to be done on my friend's ug3 pulsar 180. sorry for the confusion but it was not intended... all ug4 pulsars are with full dc setup and i'm very happy with whatever electricals i got... stock i have 55w bulbs and other than my indicator and headlights i have switched to full LED have some additional LEDs as well, and recently i was planning to switch to HID soon but the only question that is left with me is once i switch to full HID setup, what will be the status of my pass light? alive or expired?

as far as i know, HIDs take up a certain time to light up in that case i won't be able to use my HID upper beam as pass light anymore right?

for this reason many of my friends just switched to HID on the lower beam only but i want to switch HID on my upper beam also as incomplete switch will intriguer headlight color difference.

and i just asked out of curiosity wanted to know the capacity difference between my stock 220 rr unit and the ape rr unit. if the ape is way better and if its not potentially harmful to my existing setup, might have switched to ape rr unit as well then. advice please.