Convert AC/DC bike to ALL DC.

[discoverVinu]

no no i'm not doing anything on mine... the dc setup is to be done on my friend's ug3 pulsar 180. sorry for the confusion but it was not intended... all ug4 pulsars are with full dc setup and i'm very happy with whatever electricals i got... stock i have 55w bulbs and other than my indicator and headlights i have switched to full LED have some additional LEDs as well, and recently i was planning to switch to HID soon but the only question that is left with me is once i switch to full HID setup, what will be the status of my pass light? alive or expired?

as far as i know, HIDs take up a certain time to light up in that case i won't be able to use my HID upper beam as pass light anymore right?

for this reason many of my friends just switched to HID on the lower beam only but i want to switch HID on my upper beam also as incomplete switch will intriguer headlight color difference.

and i just asked out of curiosity wanted to know the capacity difference between my stock 220 rr unit and the ape rr unit. if the ape is way better and if its not potentially harmful to my existing setup, might have switched to ape rr unit as well then. advice please.

I heard that P220 has three phase winding in alternator, if it is the case you can't use Ape RR for replacing Stock RR without rewinding.

check out this thread Twin beam HID Mod from Rahuldevnath this should solve your problem of switching beams....I hope.

[sajjt]

@sajjt, Good to see you again,

U guys know how to explain in a better way than me, so I will remain silent till some point like this

It wont ditch in a day but the way it was overheating in my case was evident that it would in a week or two....(mine was Pulsar 150 Stock RR copuled with 17gauge full wave winding on all 7 poles).

I didn't know that, that's why I raised the question....

Oops my bad, I was thinking about the rewinding the coils for a 55W on AC

Yes u r right. U shouldn't screw a 4A rated RR with 8A Surely it will conk off within no time as the stock diodes wont pass anything beyond 3.5A. 7 poles with 17G is more than 8A @ higher rpms. Either it will fry the RR or the alternator coil.

BTW, why did u use the stock rr for this setup, as it wont support for a full DC setup. Or are u referring to the charging coils with 17G wire to power the HID like u said earlier?

One more, did u managed to get the full winding in 17G? How many turns per pole? Whats the pumping rate @4K?

well, I have tried GC1000 RR, I was not able to figure out how to use the battery monitor thing. I asked for help on this remember!!! so you can omitt GC100 RR and the other Ape RR which had extra leads, so we are left with only two options APE/Minidor RR for easy and hassle free installation.

Yes I remember now, I thought u must've sorted out once u stopped that querying. But with a battery monitor lead, it can perform betterl AFAIK.

And i'm not trying to argue this is just my opinion based on my own hands on experience....

Then ofcourse u can Now u can say more authentically and clearly

Hey, what was ur first config? AC 55W HL (Stock RR) + HID aux (APE RR) right? Has it changed already?

[discoverVinu]

U guys know how to explain in a better way than me, so I will remain silent till some point like this

BTW, why did u use the stock rr for this setup, as it wont support for a full DC setup. Or are u referring to the charging coils with 17G wire to power the HID like u said earlier?

You know human nature first try whatever you have

One more, did u managed to get the full winding in 17G? How many turns per pole? Whats the pumping rate @4K?

I asked him I want it in 17 gauge wire He did his magic, and they are professional too they have some two machines to test how much current is generated from the coil using that they were rewinding the stator.
My Bad I didn't use that stator because of my Switchgear problem and the Stock RR heating issue as I said earlier.

Hey, what was ur first config? AC 55W HL (Stock RR) + HID aux (APE RR) right? Has it changed already?

I'm still having above setup but now the HID is in a Projector on knee crash guard( pic attached)

I have got another crazy Idea like before but this one may work out this time, I have to see....though not yet started working on it...

[sajjt]

You know human nature first try whatever you have

I asked him I want it in 17 gauge wire He did his magic, and they are professional too they have some two machines to test how much current is generated from the coil using that they were rewinding the stator.
My Bad I didn't use that stator because of my Switchgear problem and the Stock RR heating issue as I said earlier.

I'm still having above setup but now the HID is in a Projector on knee crash guard( pic attached)

I have got another crazy Idea like before but this one may work out this time, I have to see....though not yet started working on it...

Its cruel to experiment on everything with what you have

Can you post a pic of this machine winded stator coils? And why you are not using it now? The stock RR can support even a 100W on AC only thing is you should not feed all the 7 poles floated to the charging circuit without a higher cap RR.

I guess its a WIP pic, you've posted one almost finished pic earlier. Good luck to your lens mod

[anagaraj]

Any info on my posting?

Guys,
Can some one sugesst me where I can get my pulsar coil winding done in chennai? (Like Bangalore Ruby) any help on this would be greatly appreciated.

[aditaya.chopra]

can anyone help me. i have yamaha r15, its on dc but when i switch on hid my battery drain completely after 20-25 mins. i replace stock battery with 5amp amaron battery but still my problem exists plz help me

[discoverVinu]

can anyone help me. i have yamaha r15, its on dc but when i switch on hid my battery drain completely after 20-25 mins. i replace stock battery with 5amp amaron battery but still my problem exists plz help me

Hi Aditya,

check for any short circuit in the Wiring, like near joints and contacts. try to use Heat shrink for insulating.
Is the battery Draining out even without HID?
and one more silly Question, is this happening while you are driving?

[aditaya.chopra]

Hi Aditya,

check for any short circuit in the Wiring, like near joints and contacts. try to use Heat shrink for insulating.
Is the battery Draining out even without HID?
and one more silly Question, is this happening while you are driving?

no there is not a short circut in wiring and battery dont drain if hid are off ig only drain when i swich on my hid lights

[Raneet]

no there is not a short circut in wiring and battery dont drain if hid are off ig only drain when i swich on my hid lights

maybe you have some issues with your charging unit, that consists of two parts, the charging coil and the rectifier unit. Get them checked. And what do you mean by you upgraded to 5amp battery? What's your stock battery grade then? Ours is 9amp stock on all pulsars. Another question. Are you using those cheap chinese hids? Those do consume a lot as well.

[aditaya.chopra]

maybe you have some issues with your charging unit, that consists of two parts, the charging coil and the rectifier unit. Get them checked. And what do you mean by you upgraded to 5amp battery? What's your stock battery grade then? Ours is 9amp stock on all pulsars. Another question. Are you using those cheap chinese hids? Those do consume a lot as well.

in r15 stock battery is of minda 3.5amp and there is no space to fit 9amp battery. we can only upgrade to 5amp battery without any modificatiom. and my brother bring those hid from australia for me, they have projector with it and they are of 35 watts but dont know its company plz help me should i have to change my rectifier unit with some other

[Hottracks]

Hi guys,

I have an Avenger 200 and as you know it has AC+DC wiring.. Will this method work on my bike too?? If there's anything specific i need to do differently for it??
I really gotta get rid of the flicker and need a really good light setup.. As i travel a lot! And i can barely see anything with the stock head light nowadays.. Way too dim! Please help..

Thanks..

[Raneet]

in r15 stock battery is of minda 3.5amp and there is no space to fit 9amp battery. we can only upgrade to 5amp battery without any modificatiom. and my brother bring those hid from australia for me, they have projector with it and they are of 35 watts but dont know its company plz help me should i have to change my rectifier unit with some other

are you kidding me? Stock 3.5amp? :O 1l and 3.5amp battery? Until now i thought only hero hondas provide such under power electricals but even new hunks and all have 4amp batteries i assume. Anyways first get the rectifier and the charging coil checked(because i have many friends running hids but none are facing battery drainage issues). If either/both are faulty, get them replaced with oem replacements. That should do. If they are fine, get a coil rewind(don't need to be much technical to the mechanic just tell him you will run 100/90w headlights and he should rewind accordingly. Note: 80% chances are only if he attempts a 100/90w, he will succeed with the 60/55w setup. 60/55w setup is good enough. But i asked you to ask for 100/90w setup as if he succeeds, good for you. If he doesn't, well atleast you have 60/55w. If you ask for 60/55w setup, and if he fails, god only knows what rewinding he will end up with.) and run it for a week or so and see if there's any difference. If all is well, good. Else get the ape rr unit. Guess that will do. And next time you change your battery, do whatever modifications(space creating) required and upgrade to a 9amp. God you guys run 2 headlights of 35w, means 70w on headlight, 5w on the license plate illumination and around 10w on tail light right? So total 85w running on 3.5amp battery? :O very disappointing.

[Raneet]

in r15 stock battery is of minda 3.5amp and there is no space to fit 9amp battery. we can only upgrade to 5amp battery without any modificatiom. and my brother bring those hid from australia for me, they have projector with it and they are of 35 watts but dont know its company plz help me should i have to change my rectifier unit with some other

are you kidding me? Stock 3.5amp? :O 1l and 3.5amp battery? Until now i thought only hero hondas provide such under power electricals but even new hunks and all have 4amp batteries i assume. Anyways first get the rectifier and the charging coil checked(because i have many friends running hids but none are facing battery drainage issues). If either/both are faulty, get them replaced with oem replacements. That should do. If they are fine, get a coil rewind(don't need to be much technical to the mechanic just tell him you will run 100/90w headlights and he should rewind accordingly. Note: 80% chances are only if he attempts a 100/90w, he will succeed with the 60/55w setup. 60/55w setup is good enough. But i asked you to ask for 100/90w setup as if he succeeds, good for you. If he doesn't, well atleast you have 60/55w. If you ask for 60/55w setup, and if he fails, god only knows what rewinding he will end up with.) and run it for a week or so and see if there's any difference. If all is well, good. Else get the ape rr unit. Guess that will do. And next time you change your battery, do whatever modifications(space creating) required and upgrade to a 9amp. God you guys run 2 headlights of 35w, means 70w on headlight, 5w on the license plate illumination and around 10w on tail light right? So total 85w running on 3.5amp battery? :O very disappointing.

[drvmtm]

so many quaries raneet babu,eto proshno bhalo noi......................

pulsy--classic/ug1/ug2/ug3 ac output is 40watt+dc output is ~23-25watts.

pulsy 150/180 ug4 SO CALLED FULL DC dc output is ~45-48watts.

p 220 fi/si output- ~90 watts of pure dc,(though company claims an astronomical fig).

no ,rr from ug4 is not a direct fit in older models,not the coil also,its a 8 pole single phase dc system while the older are ac+dc system.also ug4 uses tci ignition system while older all use cdi,so not plug and play.

p 220 system is also cant be used in any other pulsars.

ape rr is the most reliable,strong system avl in the market and mr sajjit is the inventor who used this first in a modded bike and still using it.

output of ape rr?,i would say enough,give it a good coil with good magnet it easily crosses 25 amp barrier with ease.in my bike its pumping close to 13 amps ,thats a massive 182 watts of pure bliss @14 VOLTS FROM 5K RPM.

astronomically reliable.period.who ever fitted the original unit PROPERLY it never failed.originals failed but this one,no never,in my opinion its even more reliable then oem.

p 220 is a 3 phase delta woven unit and for that the rr cant be changed with ape as ape is single phase.

only karizma produces more juice,130 watts tested personally with ease,even with a 7 amp battery,but reports of failure on heavy load is pretty common,ape on high load works like a charm.

there are other cheap ways to convert the system of ug1/2/3 to full dc by re routing the ac phase to the battery after converting it to dc by using bridge rectifier.works and fails.
worked with rahuldevnath on his mighty all india tour which was close to 15,000kms with hid ,no complaints,it was a blue ug3 180.failed in pavan chirmades 180 ug3,and set the bike on fire while two of the greatest xbhpian(mod guru),pavan and nano technology was onboard but there asses were saved.

hmmmm.

full dc convertion only way is ape rr+ rewind.
if you are using halogen bulb upto 100 watts no tension .easy job.

want one hid,rewind properly
WANT 2 HIDS OR MORE,THEN FORGET IT IF YOU DONT KNOW THE TINY MINY DETAILS.FORGET IT.
the most practical and chepast option for your friend is changing the coil with avenger 180s one (model number DV 111005),COST 532.00INR,DIRECT FIT.what it will do,apart from being direct fit,you can now run a 55/60 h4 bulb in the headlight is full intensity in ac mde,which is a big leap remeber that in terms of visibility.

for the r 15 ,discharging.well mr aditya chopra why you are crying sir.i suppose you are busy making some super hit movies and not lisning what abhijit said prevoiusly in some other thread to your quary...

r 15 is a gem....period.
one hid all time no prob.
2 hid only when rpm is more then 5k ,less then that ,battery will drain(personal experiance with 3 r 15s).

check the follwing, the voltage with a dmm with full electrical load,note the diff voltages.
1k
2k
3k
4k
5k
6k
7k
8k
now if the electricals are ok then the voltage will cross 13 volt @somewhere after 5k rpm and will keep increaing upto 13.6 or more.
if not going beyond 13 volt after 5k rpm also ,sorry to say switch off one hid and check again
1k
2k
3k
4k
5k
6k
7k
this time you will see the voltage climb very easily.note where it crosses 13,some where close to3-4 k rpm.

if you have this kind of result and battery is ok then no use if you use a mammoth 120 amp battery also it will discharge.the rr or wiring is culprit in this case.

if the voltage is ok and batt stays good with oem setup then badluck,your hids are sucking tooo much load,its common for some hids,i have seen 35 watt hids sucking close to 45-50 watt.

phewwwwwwwwwwwww............

[Raneet]

so many quaries ranit babu,eto proshno bhalo noi......................

pulsy--classic/ug1/ug2/ug3 ac output is 40watt+dc output is ~23-25watts.

pulsy 150/180 ug4 SO CALLED FULL DC dc output is ~45-48watts.

p 220 fi/si output- ~90 watts of pure dc,(though company claims an astronomical fig).

no ,rr from ug4 is not a direct fit in older models,not the coil also,its a 8 pole single phase dc system while the older are ac+dc system.also ug4 uses tci ignition system while older all use cdi,so not plug and play.

p 220 system is also cant be used in any other pulsars.

ape rr is the most reliable,strong system avl in the market and mr sajjit is the inventor who used this first in a modded bike and still using it.

output of ape rr?,i would say enough,give it a good coil with good magnet it easily crosses 25 amp barrier with ease.in my bike its pumping close to 13 amps ,thats a massive 182 watts of pure bliss @14 VOLTS FROM 5K RPM.

astronomically reliable.period.who ever fitted the original unit PROPERLY it never failed.originals failed but this one,no never,in my opinion its even more reliable then oem.

p 220 is a 3 phase delta woven unit and for that the rr cant be changed with ape as ape is single phase.

only karizma produces more juice,130 watts tested personally with ease,even with a 7 amp battery,but reports of failure on heavy load is pretty common,ape on high load works like a charm.

there are other cheap ways to convert the system of ug1/2/3 to full dc by re routing the ac phase to the battery after converting it to dc by using bridge rectifier.works and fails.
worked with rahuldevnath on his mighty all india tour which was close to 15,000kms with hid ,no complaints,it was a blue ug3 180.failed in pavan chirmades 180 ug3,and set the bike on fire while two of the greatest xbhpian(mod guru),pavan and nano technology was onboard but there asses were saved.

hmmmm.

full dc convertion only way is ape rr+ rewind.
if you are using halogen bulb upto 100 watts no tension .easy job.

want one hid,rewind properly
WANT 2 HIDS OR MORE,THEN FORGET IT IF YOU DONT KNOW THE TINY MINY DETAILS.FORGET IT.
the most practical and chepast option for your friend is changing the coil with avenger 180s one (model number DV 111005),COST 532.00INR,DIRECT FIT.what it will do,apart from being direct fit,you can now run a 55/60 h4 bulb in the headlight is full intensity in ac mde,which is a big leap remeber that in terms of visibility.

for the r 15 ,discharging.well mr aditya chopra why you are crying sir.i suppose you are busy making some super hit movies and not lisning what abhijit said prevoiusly in some other thread to your quary...

r 15 is a gem....period.
one hid all time no prob.
2 hid only when rpm is more then 5k ,less then that ,battery will drain(personal experiance with 3 r 15s).

check the follwing, the voltage with a dmm with full electrical load,note the diff voltages.
1k
2k
3k
4k
5k
6k
7k
8k
now if the electricals are ok then the voltage will cross 13 volt @somewhere after 5k rpm and will keep increaing upto 13.6 or more.
if not going beyond 13 volt after 5k rpm also ,sorry to say switch off one hid and check again
1k
2k
3k
4k
5k
6k
7k
this time you will see the voltage climb very easily.note where it crosses 13,some where close to3-4 k rpm.

if you have this kind of result and battery is ok then no use if you use a mammoth 120 amp battery also it will discharge.the rr or wiring is culprit in this case.

if the voltage is ok and batt stays good with oem setup then badluck,your hids are sucking tooo much load,its common for some hids,i have seen 35 watt hids sucking close to 45-50 watt.

phewwwwwwwwwwwww............

hey doc, raneet. Not ranit. Please. I'm quite particular with my spelling. and that was hell of a reply man. you know i seriously got shocked here to hear r15 comes with 3.5amp batteries. :O used to think it comes with 9amp only like ours. And why did you say 150 and 180 ug4 has so called full dc?