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Hello guys
I own yamaha r15 v3 and will do first service next week.
I have heard many negative reviews of yamalube oil.
Please suggest me best oil as I dont have knowledge regarding which oil to use
Should I go for Motul
U can go for mobil1 10w40 racing 4T full synthetic. It performs better than motul 7100 fs in my R15S. Easily run for 5000 kms without any decrease in level of oil.
car oil will burn the clutch plates soon due to excessive slip & heat formation . I have 1st hand experience with this oil . I changed my burnt clutch plates on p220 due to this
car oil will burn the clutch plates soon due to excessive slip & heat formation . I have 1st hand experience with this oil . I changed my burnt clutch plates on p220 due to this
Appreciate the info. Have seen them before. Fairly simple. Thing is, would like to do the clutch plates at the same time. But there is a specific tool that is required to remove the plates assembly which honestly I have not seen with any mechs yet. Have had my eyes on the REH for the past 2 yrs, may probably go with it soon.
Yes , those spl tools are
the clutch-center nut socket ( and an handle to drive it )
and a clutch holder tool like this.
Both were readily available at the bike parts market here and total of less than 200 Rs when I bought them . It would be almost same for your bike I think . Other than that I needed a 8mm socket ( for removing the 8mm nuts that hold the clutch-side engine cover , you need a socket as spanner cannot do it ) & a quarter-inch-drive L handle to drive it and screwdriver , these I already had . Also need some simple spanners & pliers to remove the kick-pedal . clutch cables etc . Thats it .
For the parts , you'll need a set of the clutch friction plates , two paper gaskets ( one for the case cover another for the rotor filter cover ) and a bottle of oil .
Understand your predicament , yes it's difficult to find competent & honest mechanics nowadays . But Hyderabad is a big city , am sure there are some there . Ask on our xbhp forums here for guidance in finding suitable one . Otherwise the Unicorn's engine is very similar to Honda CBF125 , for which there are great video guides on the tube which you can check . It's not difficult to DIY . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1lYyQAtJng https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2Ooe74oiOM http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNSWsk8oYVg
Appreciate the info. Have seen them before. Fairly simple. Thing is, would like to do the clutch plates at the same time. But there is a specific tool that is required to remove the plates assembly which honestly I have not seen with any mechs yet. Have had my eyes on the REH for the past 2 yrs, may probably go with it soon.
..It's a 07' Uni. ..Thing is, having moved to Hyd last year, am yet to find an honourable mechanic here. Have been doing the small stuff myself with limited tools. Do hope to change the clutch plates and clean this filter as soon as I find a good mech. ...
Understand your predicament , yes it's difficult to find competent & honest mechanics nowadays . But Hyderabad is a big city , am sure there are some there . Ask on our xbhp forums here for guidance in finding suitable one . Otherwise the Unicorn's engine is very similar to Honda CBF125 , for which there are great video guides on the tube which you can check . It's not difficult to DIY . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1lYyQAtJng https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2Ooe74oiOM http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNSWsk8oYVg
Which bike you are having brother ? Because at that mileage it is urgent to clean the strainer & rotor-filter if your bike has it . The main disadvantage of centrifugal filter is that if it's capacity is full ( will eventually ) , it shall stop oil flow and cause catastrophic damage to engine . I have seen ceased crank bearings and gouged out camshaft lifters from this kind of lack of oil flow . There is no damage or any problem in opening the clutch-side cover , it is designed in that way to not touch the main engine parts . That's why manufacturer recommends it , they know very well whats necessary and what is not . A clutch service & friction-plate replacement which is not costly can make you really smile . Bike feels new again when you open throttle with new clutch
Hi. It's a 07' Uni. It obviously has the centrifugal filter. Thing is, having moved to Hyd last year, am yet to find an honourable mechanic here. Have been doing the small stuff myself with limited tools. Do hope to change the clutch plates and clean this filter as soon as I find a good mech. Problem has been that most are good at ripping off people here and most owners give their vehicles to brand showroom for servicing who anyway outsource the job to local mechs.
True that. The only time I see opening up that area would be to change the clutch plates, which as of now isn't on the horizon even after 60k and 11 yrs. My strainer has never been cleaned till now. Thought about it, but decided against it. If anyone gets false neutrals, change oil, adjust clutch play or change clutch cable. Clutch plates usually last fairly long atleast on the old bikes if the above 3 are done timely. New ones seem to have clutch plate replacement as part of the service schedule.
Which bike you are having brother ? Because at that mileage it is urgent to clean the strainer & rotor-filter if your bike has it . The main disadvantage of centrifugal filter is that if it's capacity is full ( will eventually ) , it shall stop oil flow and cause catastrophic damage to engine . I have seen ceased crank bearings and gouged out camshaft lifters from this kind of lack of oil flow . There is no damage or any problem in opening the clutch-side cover , it is designed in that way to not touch the main engine parts . That's why manufacturer recommends it , they know very well whats necessary and what is not . A clutch service & friction-plate replacement which is not costly can make you really smile . Bike feels new again when you open throttle with new clutch
The myth about flushing agents is they remain in new oil . but as the flushing liquid has much more lesser vaporising point it gets evaporated when engine gets hot at first time only after oil change .
clutch cover removing & cleaning is time consuming & never recommend for higher capacity , complicated engines {like r15 , ns200 etc } ,so better use a engine flush .
True that. The only time I see opening up that area would be to change the clutch plates, which as of now isn't on the horizon even after 60k and 11 yrs. My strainer has never been cleaned till now. Thought about it, but decided against it. If anyone gets false neutrals, change oil, adjust clutch play or change clutch cable. Clutch plates usually last fairly long atleast on the old bikes if the above 3 are done timely. New ones seem to have clutch plate replacement as part of the service schedule.
That would be fine because this oil reportedly has no friction-modifier additives in it ( unlike most car oils ) . Or better even to use ordinary thin bike oils like 10w30 and drain soon if you wish special cleaning for the engine in certain situations . Like say you've just bought a second-hand bike which you suspect has not had regular services . Otherwise for a engine which has always had regular oil changes and filter replacement/cleaning nothing special need be done for cleaning it internally .
OH ! but don't worry , when I first opened up my Splendor's rotor filter there was dirt trapped in it , but not enough to cause any blockage ( i.e far less than it's capacity ) . Just get it cleaned now . You can simply go to Hero service and get it done there . It is included in the regular service charge . But do write specifically to do rotor-filter & strainer cleaning in job-card , otherwise they find convenient to skip it
What about using Shell Rimula R4 HDEO as a flush, run it for 250 Kms and repeat?
That would be fine because this oil reportedly has no friction-modifier additives in it ( unlike most car oils ) . Or better even to use ordinary thin bike oils like 10w30 and drain soon if you wish special cleaning for the engine in certain situations . Like say you've just bought a second-hand bike which you suspect has not had regular services . Otherwise for a engine which has always had regular oil changes and filter replacement/cleaning nothing special need be done for cleaning it internally .
Please post diy on oil strainer cleaning of super splendor. I have completed 27k and not cleaned it till now. Please, help me.
OH ! but don't worry , when I first opened up my Splendor's rotor filter there was dirt trapped in it , but not enough to cause any blockage ( i.e far less than it's capacity ) . Just get it cleaned now . You can simply go to Hero service and get it done there . It is included in the regular service charge . But do write specifically to do rotor-filter & strainer cleaning in job-card , otherwise they find convenient to skip it
Modern engines have external oil filter which makes the diy job easy. Honda doesn't provide external oil filter for hornet also, it's such a pain .
There is some reasons why Honda prefer the centrifugal filter + strainer system .
Replaceable filters are not perfect -
i) they slow down oil flow because they are in the path .
ii) as the filter gets loaded up gradually so more and more obstruction to oil flow .
iii) dirt holding capacity is used up as soon as the paper element area is covered with dirt , so every replaceable filter must have a bypass mechanism - which bypass it when it is fully choked , but then dirty oil circulates .
iv) filtration size depends on the size of the paper pores . If made too porous to allow better oil flow then size of particles that can be trapped is also large and finer particles shall pass . So a compromise must be accepted .
v) cost of replacement & availability of the replaceable module .
Centrifugal filters on the other hand
i) filtration does not depend on the size of the dirt particles , it shall trap all size dirt by centrifugal action.
ii) minimal slowdown in oil flow .
iii) massive dirt holding capacity , it has large space inside to hold the trapped dirt. moreover the fast centrifugal action compress the trapped dirt and gives even more capacity .
iv) uniform filtration - until it's dirt holding capacity is full / exceeded , it has same oil flow from beginning to end . i.e No gradual degradation to oil-flow like paper element .
v) no replaceable parts / costs .
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