Let there be Light : Bike Lighting, HID etc

[drvmtm]

MINE LOOKED KINDA SAME BUT U HAVE TWO EXTRA WIRES ,WHAT ARE THOSE FOR?
HERE IS THE PIC OF MINE....

[drvmtm]

great.. All the best for the mod

dr jee..
Here are the pics...

shree,is that lumax is the p 43 seal beam or its the oem yamaha rx 100 s seal beam?

[Shreeni0403]

Hmm.. Thanks for the information bro.. I think High beam is what I wanted
But the other lens I have looks bit different.
Regarding sockets, I will anyway have to cut the rear bcz I have to fix a Bi-Xenon which will have a motor at rear. So ready for it..

shree,is that lumax is the p 43 seal beam or its the oem yamaha rx 100 s seal beam?

Canter's p43t Lumax!!

[lijok]

MINE LOOKED KINDA SAME BUT U HAVE TWO EXTRA WIRES ,WHAT ARE THOSE FOR?
HERE IS THE PIC OF MINE....

I was wondering the same! Guess I can just ignore the extra pair?

[abhijeet080808]

@Shreeni - Dont worry abt the spread.. HIDs tend to spread anyway! All the best!

[drvmtm]

@shreeni....there is a good chance that u dont hv to cut the housing,just a gut feeling,.
high beam its awasome,with hid its awasomer,one beam does it all low high mid u name it.
thekey is to focus the hid,use paper packings at the base of the hid pins to increase or decrease the hids focus,my per exp is u hav to pull out the hid from tthe sealbeam just a bit,but urs is a bixenon and ur case might be diff from me.just take the seal beam and hid with a spare battery in a lazy afternoonand do the focussing.the more it will be focussed the more light ,less and less glare.

@lijok-- i really hv no idea whats tat abt,will def try to find out,can be a battery monitor/can be a ignition switch connection/can be a connection to the bcu/ecu??????????
experts help needed.
just ignore it and see if it works or if possible get it replaced with the part i hv shown u ,the part number is visible there.

[Shreeni0403]

@Shreeni - Dont worry abt the spread.. HIDs tend to spread anyway! All the best!

Thanks

@shreeni....there is a good chance that u dont hv to cut the housing,just a gut feeling,.
high beam its awasome,with hid its awasomer,one beam does it all low high mid u name it.
thekey is to focus the hid,use paper packings at the base of the hid pins to increase or decrease the hids focus,my per exp is u hav to pull out the hid from tthe sealbeam just a bit,but urs is a bixenon and ur case might be diff from me.just take the seal beam and hid with a spare battery in a lazy afternoonand do the focussing.the more it will be focussed the more light ,less and less glare.

@lijok-- i really hv no idea whats tat abt,will def try to find out,can be a battery monitor/can be a ignition switch connection/can be a connection to the bcu/ecu??????????
experts help needed.
just ignore it and see if it works or if possible get it replaced with the part i hv shown u ,the part number is visible there.

I really doubt your gut feeling Will bug you regarding focusing when I am all set

I guess those 2 wires are for the battery monitor. It can be ignored. Sajit knows better.

[lijok]

@drvmtm, shreeni - thanks.... I have to postpone my rewinding work for yet another week due to sudden increase of work at office... i hate this job!!!...

Lamentations aside, I have one confusion now.... like kauria has said before, the stator coil of RTR has two(x2) outputs... one for charging and one for lighting... so now after the mod, we have only one output, which we feed to the RR and then we connect the lighting circuit to the output of the RR (which also go to the battery) ? How wrong am I in my understanding?

[kauria]

^^ Right...

[lijok]

^^ Right...

wow.... thats a major relief... then again, when I look at all the wiring on the bike, i just loose it..
BTW... i enquired at the two TVS SVCs in TVM, and they say they do not have any old stator. One mech also said stator for 160 and 180 are different in some clearance... whatever. Either way, I'm not gonna get an old one from them. A new one will come to Rs.873/- and they get it only against order!

I was wondering if I get a new one, get it rewound, can I do the rest myself? Though I did an engineering course, i'm a complete fool when I come to electronics/electrical... what do you guys say?

[iamvik]

I have posted two useful articles on DIY stator rewinding and DC conversion.

Good luck to those who might want to try it.

http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/universal-threads/11469-convert-ac-dc-bike-all-dc-22.html#post424294

[drvmtm]

@kauria...

bro your coil is 90 % done as i saw tonight,the guy who is winding is a real pro in winding,he winds fan coils/motor coils/alternater coils you name it.even i was so much impressed with him i gave my brand new few months used avy coil to rewind for a single phase,man u hv to see how neat he winds......omg,omg.also he used the best possible wire 19 awg for our winding,i must say the job is coming pretty cool.it should be ready by saturday.you know the immence heat is killing everyones working power!!!!!!!!let it rain god ,p-lease...

i was thinkin as you told before also that u faced a dip in accleration while usin all the power from battery,in that case the light coil(which is stronger,i think,correct me if i am wrong) was lying free.
only the battery coil is used to charge the battery......and all the load is on the battery.now inn that case the charging amount is much less then the amount u r taking out.lets calculate roughly how much the load is......

in a normal/stock rtr 180 two phase are there--ac amd dc..

ac load------35w halogen headlamp
5w*2=10w for position lamps
some milliwatts in tail position lamp as its l.e.d
2w number plate light.
some more milliwatts in the cosole lights which light up the speedo meter ,rpm meter
1.7 w for high beam indicator
1.7 w for turning indicator
i think thats it. so total 55 watt approx of ac power.

now for dc lets count........
1.7w for neutral indicator,
1.7 w for side stand ind,,,,,,
turning indicaters 10 watt each time
horns 30 watts about
some milliwatts to the rear laser like stop light leds.
a huge 60-80 watts for starter motor
?? for tci system....
so APPROX 125 WATT...OF DC POWER.
now in the dc load if u look closely only the tci power is needed all the time rest alla re taken for a very small amount of time so u dont hav to worry as they will not hog the power all the time.

now i am no expert but tci ignition system is the same as most cars in one section,they all draw power to produce the speark from the battery ,not like our most bikes like pulsys use the power from a dedicated pulse coil.

now just think a pulsar is able to produce the power to ignite two speak plugs from only one pulse coil,so how much power it can take?
as per my personal exp a car with a non working alternater/charging system can manage to pull the car by producing spearks till the last moment and only at the very last moment when almost evryting dies incl the batt then only ignition sys fails,obviously the loss of power is evident from before full dying the battery as its going down and down a there is no charging.
so how much u need for the tci?


now i am coming to your exp.u told when u connected the battery the acceleration was hampered,as the tci was not gettin all the power.
i assume u connected the load to battery not changing the battery charging.in that case your load was 55+125=180 watts!!!!!

now as you also know and as i told before the load of horn /indicator/starter/and other misc dc load is not present all the time so in a practical scenario the load should hv been approx the full ac load +the load of the tci??=55w+??

now where as normal battery dc circuit just runs the tci system ??watt u added the whole ac load of 55 watt to it,correct.
the charging of ac/dc bikes battery according to my exp is never more then 2-3 amps,that also drops as the battery gets charged,i assume the same with apache,as if it was more it could hv benn pulling hids all over xbhp.......which is not....

from the above points i ca assume the tci may be i say again may be using a power of 10-20watts max...if its more the battery will die in stock setup only.

i know this is a lot of assumption and it can be wrong but i strongly think its the 10-20 watt of stable dc power we need to drive the tci......WE CANT BE 100% SURE UNLESS WE PUT IT TO TEST.
there is a say that apaches having a 130 watt magneto,i dont know ,may be but there are things...
1.the rectifier is not a full wave recifier
2.the 130 watt magneto is not pumping a full dc out put which is not usefull as ac current is not at all used to charge the battery.
3.even the magneto of p 220 is 350 watt there or there about but the machine cant use even one 130/100 halo,cause the rectifier takes the 3 phases which total 350watt but in reality its not that much but it pulls a healthy load of 80-90 watts with ease,,,,,i may be wrong but that is not the point.
4.ther e are so many people in xbhp running a 7 pole rewinded coil with ape rr which can support a 100/90 bulb plus other loads close to even 130 watts some times,in my personal case its pulling one hid+one 55/60 bulb+other stock load of p 180 ug 2 with ease ,i also say here the battery i had before it had 3 cells dead,the battery was a wreck,even after that the bike managed to pull the hid and othe loads,how ?only the super strong chgarging system,....i even cheked witha faulty battery it pushed a 8-9 amp charging to system as the battery was just a completer of the circuit,,,akll was pushed by the charging system only.

also i think with a strong charging the apache s tci will be able to run smoothly..................................

phew......

[lijok]

^^ so, to summarize, a properly done re-winding work will only have a +ve impact on the TCI ?

[abhijeet080808]

^^ Yes, and TCI needs only around 10-20W max.

[kauria]

Good, let see, let me get the APE RR first.

Doctor your effort is mindblowing.