Hi all, sorry.. haven't been able to post anything on the R170 as i have been travelling constantly.. finally got hold of it tonight so shall do some tests from tomorrow. Will be in blore from 14th feb till 17th so will try and nag Joel soon to have a look at the FZ kits from RC.

Anyways, my friend finally got most of the parts replaced/repaired on his R170. Unfortunately, Kamla Yamaha didn't have the following parts; speedo sensor which went kaput again, rear plastic panels, coneset, handlebars and new fuel pump which has been the source of power drop problem when driven at slow speeds below 4k rpm and needs replacement as soon as possible... today my friend ended up doing a small drag with another Daytona Kitted R15 and completely destroyed it.. In just matter of seconds, Joelled R170 overtook the daytona kitted R15 and just kept pulling ahead.. the Daytona guy stopped his bike right next to him with a confused look on his face ! He asked my friend looking at Joel's exhaust... "with just the exhaust it is so fast??"

will post my results soon.

Cheers

He he he ..... Shiv, not fair, you are playing with a loaded dice, the poor guy must still be scratching his head trying to come up with a possible explanation for the whole episode.

I am still searching for a good straight & level stretch of road with proper asphalting which is fairly secluded for my timing runs. Also looking for a stock R15 to run and compare against.

Meanwhile, I did a couple of trial runs to check out the data logger and the camera. The motive was not to do all out runs but to vet the working of the data logger and the camera and to get familiar with their operation. None the less, the results were very interesting.

Here is a clip of one of the runs:

R15_Run2 - YouTube

Couple of things to note over here (as you can see from the clip); first, there was way too much of traffic for me to really to a nice clear run. Second after couple of runs, I started attracting way too much of attention with guys on bike trying to follow me. In short, it was becoming too dangerous to continue.

About the run;

0 - 100 in 10.4 seconds. Not exciting? Well, consider this, a stock bike with a 50 kg rider will do a best run of 13.65 seconds (V-box results) with limited fuel on board.

Before the runs, I weighed my bike at a digital weighing bridge. The results:
1. Full wet weight (with a full tank of fuel, full coolant tank, oil, data logger, camera): 130 kgs.
2. My weight with all riding gear (includes helmet, riding jacket, body armor, riding shoes): 70 kgs.
3. Total weight: 200 kgs.

That is a difference of 3.25 seconds with a 20 kg heavier rider and a full load of fuel (note the fuel gauge in the clip) without even getting a good run!!!

The bike also had 1 psi less air in the front tire and 2 psi less in the rear tire.

As is apparent from the clip, there was no way I could have done a better run with the type of traffic I was encountering. By the time I was reaching 11,000 rpm in 3rd gear and ready to shift into 4th gear, I am forced to letup as there is traffic ahead.

I suspect that with a good run I should be able to shave off another second and a half to reach the low 9 seconds mark.

The net Horse Power indicated for the run was 18 HP. Once again, it will be much higher once a good run is done (I suspect couple of ponies more to 20HP). The net HP is different from wheel horsepower as measured on a Dyno. As you know wheel horsepower is always lower than engine horsepower (measured at the crank). Similarly net horsepower is lower than even wheel horsepower. Net horsepower is the actual power available to accelerate the bike after all the power losses have been subtracted (which includes, transmission losses, aero drag, etc).

I hope to run couple of more runs by this weekend and post the results with the relevant graphs.

Brilliant Job.

Is it possible to upload a Dyno chart with this current setup?


Instead of hitting the rev limiter in initial gears, I hope the sprint would be faster if you maintain the bike in the RPMs where peak torque is achieved. Which means gear shifts between 8K-9K in 1st 3 gears will faster I suppose, need your thoughts on this.

hi abhimanyu,how about airoli bridge?Its an arrow straight 1.5km(i guess) stretch.You can try out over there.

early morning(6:30-7) you will get traffic(read trailers),the best time would be inbetween 7 to 9 and evening say 3 to 5.Else midnight.The roads are the best you can get,simply superb.

Have a better place pm me..

Cheers

Eagerly waiting for the ride report.

OT: Why don't you come here in Hyderabad . We have loads of Highways and places for speed runs close by.

A few pointers for you Abhimanyu.

Now when u said you did 10.4 to 100kph, little did I know that it was a lazy start even. There is a lot to gain with a hotter launch and perfect shifts.
This was a typical signal light start with a little bog when u dumped the clutch .
Keep revs steady around 6-7000rpm or even 8000rpm if possible. Dump and keep wheelie under control with clutch control. Shift at 10500 for optimum shifts. Its okay to over rev in 1st to 11 or 11.5k rpm. But not higher up.
I see that you can cut a good 2 seconds atleast. Considering the above changes. With lesser fuel and other weight off, corrected air pressure etc, it will be more interesting. I have seen low 8's on such setups.
You are in mumbai and it performs better than what we do here. So there is a lot to go.
Also those stock mirrors are quite aero-damn!

With the go-pro, I bet you could also not tuck-in much. So another pointer there.
Fill Speed 97 if possible and do a clean run. Will respond better at sea level.

^True that. Do a hotter launch and post up a video.

Yamaha R170: Ride Report

Hi all,

after riding the R170 for almost 300 kms here are my observations:

1) The owner installed the decomp unit as he was having problems with morning start ups. Now the bike starts at one click but the low end torque has gone down considerably. Feels more like stock hence, constant gear shifts. Joel told me that it would happen because of the decomp unit.

2) The bike is a frekkin rocket when it comes to speed and acceleration. The tachometer would fly so fast to the redline that i have decide whether to slow down or shift to the next gear. I have unknowingly pissed off quite a lot of 220s and RTRs who look at me fully geared up and try to race with me but fail misreably. After crossing 3 signals when i finally realise what is going on on my rear view mirror then i just slow down and let them go ahead. I am completely against street racing and don't want anyone to get hurt because of ego issues. Please don't blame me.. blame JOEL . However, on the 6th gear the bike refuses to go beyond 8,000 rpm. Again most likely Fuel Pump is the issue and may be the bike is running rich on AFR tuning as per my conversation with Joel.

3) The front brakes are bit spongy, easy fix!
4) The handle bars are shaky when one takes the bike through pot hole ridden roads. Again coneset issue and suspension tuning.
5) Fuel Economy is around 32-35kmpl as we have kept the ECU on agressive mapping and not for FE. Because the speedo sensor is down i am unable get the actual readings.


I would be going along with my friend to the Yamaha workshop on Monday 20th to get the following things replaced:

a) Cone set. Will check the front shocks and tighten the screws as well.
b) Fuel Pump (which has been long pending since, the upgrades).
c) Speedo sensor. which has been a constant pain in the A$$.
d) Brake adjustment or replacement of brake pads if needed both front and rear.
e) Replacing the lower beam with Halonix H4 55W/60 for better beam spread when riding on highways.

My friend is also planning to replace the tires with a new set of stock MRFs for better grip and handling. We will also install the RIDE ON Tire Protection Sealant and hydro balancer (Tire Sealant | Puncture Repair | Flat Tire Repair | Tire Protection Systems for Motorcycle, Automotive, ATV and Heavy Equipment - Ride-On) for protection against puncture and also easing out the overall ride comfort. i have been using it for over 5000 kms on my FZ and believe me it works!!

The bike is in a much better shape from what it was when in stock condition but it is still a bit vibey. Blame the previous owner!!

Cheers

Hey,
I know a place in Mumbai were you can do a proper 400 meter run and more.Its near koparkairane Proper flat stretch two lane type road.Why not we all meet up?Me,Rakesh and you?Do some proper testing.Its not the place for top speed though but yeah 140 an all on those road is pretty much possible with 0% traffic if we are lucky enough!!What say?And Airoli bridge is not a proper flat stretch.

Sure... PM your cell no... I'll call you & we can fix it up....

R170 ready to Race

Hi All,

had an opportunity to meet Abhimanyu31 yesterday as we wanted to take a third opinion regarding how to troubleshoot the problems we are facing with the R170.

So today we sent her to the Yamaha SVC and following parts were replaced:

1) Fuel Pump
2) Front Mag Wheel
3) Rubber casings for the Headlight holder
4) Gear Assembly
5) Coneset
6) Front Windshield
7) 60W/55 bulb for lower beam

The moment we got the fuel pump replaced, immediately we noticed that the bike came to life with utmost ease. The Tacho needle which was vibrating like crazy has now settled and doesn't go back and forth when idling. Will do a test run tonight and confirm the result.

There was no issue with the speedo sensor or the cable. The groove inside the mag wheel where the speedo sensor sits was completely gone hence, the speedo was not able to read out anything. The front mag wheel was replaced.

The handling has improved considerably post cone set replacement. Earlier the handlebar used to shake if one took the bike through pothole. But now that's not the case.

The lower beam light has been replaced from 35 watt to 60W/50 watt bulb.

Had a word with Joel... we may have to reprogram the ECU once to match the sea level conditions in Mumbai to give out better performance results. Abhimanyu31, may need your help again on this one .

Will keep everyone posted.


Cheers

hey man need help regarding the gasket for bigbore.
had installed gasket by cutting it to the size of new bore. but it is blown up. coolant is leaking in cylinder. any help on this issue?

You cut the gasket or filed down the inside?

You will need to change the gasket, clear any trace of coolant from the chamber, if you had no other damage reassemble and you will be good to go. As a precaution you should check your spark plug condition (most likely it will be unaffected) also you should check your oil for contamination, if it's ok you can reuse if you're not due a change, again most unlikely to be affected.