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CBZ xtreme / Hunk

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  • #2506
    Originally posted by Mzee_Maverik View Post
    15w50 motul 5100 is the best oil i have used till now but still for zma/zmr ill prefer gulf pride 4t+ 20w40 over any other engine oil.
    my mech said that i can use 15w50 in summer but i should avoid it in winter, and he said that using a 20w40 oil will give my bike a longer hasslefree life and suggested that i should quit using HH oil asap coz it is crap.
    Precisely...what I had been posting all along asking owners to switch to minerals or ss of 20 W 40 confirming to JASO MA2 spec...
    Close weight viscosity oils have better stability than wider ones, and thicker oils have better cooling and lubricating capability under higher temperature and stress.
    When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

    Comment

    • #2507
      Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post
      .....Is your bike HH? I think hero honda uses paperfilter.... Oiling paper filter???...
      I had a cbz-x , but just last july I bought an splendor+ on a whim, it's lighter and easy riding ( other than being grossly underpowered ) which I am prefering to scoot around more & more now .. so my kid brother gets to ride the cbz-x more ... That splendor has the oldy oiled-foam type air-filter which I even believe is best for our riding conditions . I also have an yamaha RX-135 & a crux . Sad thing is whoever rides what , the maintenance of all four is on me only ...

      Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post
      ....Unable to pump???? How???....

      No no .... I meant that the HH service center jokers give you all this kinda bunkum to scare you into buying their oil only , that too just from them and filled from them .... they have these big drums of it ....
      Last edited by Pinaki; 06-11-2011, 10:00 PM.

      Comment

      • #2508
        Originally posted by Pinaki View Post
        That splendor has the oldy oiled-foam type air-filter which I even believe is best for our riding conditions
        Could you please post a pic of that filter? I hadn't seen it yet.

        No no .... I meant that the HH service center jokers give you all this kinda bunkum to scare you into buying their oil only , that too just from them and filled from them .... they have these big drums of it ....
        Yeah, they dont know anything still teach us what wrong they know. Yeah,i think they have 250Ltr cans

        Comment

        • #2509
          Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post
          Could you please post a pic of that filter? I hadn't seen it yet....
          If you check the second last page of the Splendor ownership thread , I have just posted a HowTo on full DIY service of the splendor+ Airfilter ... with pics few days back .

          Comment

          • #2510
            Originally posted by Pinaki View Post
            If you check the second last page of the Splendor ownership thread , I have just posted a HowTo on full DIY service of the splendor+ Airfilter ... with pics few days back .
            Ok,Thanks sir.

            Comment

            • #2511
              best between gulf n motul

              guyz please let me know by your personal practical experience,(not on paper or your opinion)which is best between gulf pride 4t plus 20w40 and motul 3000 4t 20w40 in terms of performance and oil drain interval

              Comment

              • #2512
                I am using gulf 20W 40 the smoothness you get from this oil is comparable to 300V and i really like this oil .

                You all know about my bike losing compression cause of the valve seal giving up.....a local mech says if the valve stems are gone then the piston rings too would be damaged is this true?
                sigpic

                Awesome indian militaryIndiaEquator - Sir Winston Churchill

                Comment

                • #2513
                  Originally posted by Pinaki View Post
                  Hahaha , yes .. even I am doting on my newer bikes .
                  My humble opinion ; the best oil for bike engines is fresh new oil ; that is oil poured out of a new bottle opened just now . So I buy cheap minerals and change around 1500km use , dutifully . Rather than buy more expensive synthetic oil and drag it on for more to get my moneys worth out of a tired old oil . I'd rather spend more on petrol and ride more , even aimlessly around town ... .
                  Buy real synthetics or minerals . I don't believe in semi semi anything .
                  Long time 300V user here and i agree

                  Originally posted by Pinaki View Post
                  That is because the 10w30 is all they have now . There is no HeroHonda 20w40 .They even oil my air-filter foam and drive chain with that thin runny oil . The original recommendation ( in all old herohonda owner manuals ) was for servo multigrade 20w40 , honda too says 20w40 for unicorn ,so their bike's oils pumps being unable to pump a 20w40 etc etc advices appears to a a load of bull to me .
                  That was one thing i was really worried about thanks for clearing that up.I will now use 20W 40 grade only from now on .
                  sigpic

                  Awesome indian militaryIndiaEquator - Sir Winston Churchill

                  Comment

                  • #2514
                    Originally posted by sarbanoxley View Post
                    I am using gulf 20W 40 the smoothness you get from this oil is comparable to 300V and i really like this oil .

                    You all know about my bike losing compression cause of the valve seal giving up.....a local mech says if the valve stems are gone then the piston rings too would be damaged is this true?
                    No way...The valves ,cam shaft,and its parts are sitting on top head portion and the bore piston, rings etc., are at the middle level, the crank shaft,gears etc., are the lower section in an engine.
                    If some part of the top section like valve stem, or pieces of metal break and fall inside the bore, then there will be damage..In which case you should have total engine bore and Piston replacement...
                    So don't worry, your bike is now running well,which is the proof of your engine being ok.
                    When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

                    Comment

                    • #2515
                      Originally posted by sarbanoxley View Post
                      Long time 300V user here and i agree
                      That was one thing i was really worried about thanks for clearing that up.I will now use 20W 40 grade only from now on .
                      Ignorance is the mother of many blunders....Many of these mechanics may not have even seen the inside of the engine totally ,but talk like authority...
                      Changing oil to 40 from 30 is only 10 weight more....an oil can be squeezed and propelled by metal pumps easily.My next oil change in my ZMA will be 20w50, and I am sure the only issue will be smoother and cooler engine.
                      In my KB100 I had even used 90 grade oil in Engine, for experiment....The only downside was the clutch disengaging was bad and in cold condition bike will move even if clutch is disengaged in gear.... I ran like this for 500 Kms without any issue...though i would advise against it.
                      What we should be worried about the oil is the Viscosity, and the additives in it...A friction Modifier like in Car oils is not to be used in Bikes with Wet Clutch, since it will lead to clutch slip...So a JASO MA2 specification ensures that the oil IS compatible for bike use.
                      When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

                      Comment

                      • #2516
                        any semisynthetic oil in 20w40 grade?

                        Comment

                        • #2517
                          Originally posted by akatl View Post
                          any semisynthetic oil in 20w40 grade?
                          gulf pride 4t plus 20w40 is semi synthetic.

                          Comment

                          • #2518
                            Originally posted by nagthemissile View Post
                            guyz please let me know by your personal practical experience,(not on paper or your opinion)which is best between gulf pride 4t plus 20w40 and motul 3000 4t 20w40 in terms of performance and oil drain interval
                            To judge two oils you have use them in the same engine one after the other for two changes each under similar riding conditions . I have used both of these two like that only on my 4year old yamaha crux . I wasn't out there to test oils , I just had to fill fresh oil at 2000kms max .. .. and these were readily present at that shop then . They are both super performing oils in mineral in this grade , compared to the HP racer4 I had used just before on the crux . Difference is very subtle ( could be even just in my mind ) . The gulf 20w40 is smoother (for gearshifts and overall) throughout it's life but it becomes spent ( again by my gut feeling of the engine ) around 1700kms summer heat & stop-n-go riding . The motul is just a bit less smoothy feeling but a bit cooler ( it's a bit thicker to pour ) and keeps the same good engine feel untill about 2000kms . Take your pick , I am finicky old guy ,I doubt you'll even notice any difference .Remember that motul 3000 4t & motul 30004t plus are different oils ( both in 20w40 though ) and I have only tried the plus .
                            Last edited by Pinaki; 06-12-2011, 05:35 PM.

                            Comment

                            • #2519
                              Originally posted by psr View Post
                              No way...The valves ,cam shaft,and its parts are sitting on top head portion and the bore piston, rings etc., are at the middle level, the crank shaft,gears etc., are the lower section in an engine.
                              If some part of the top section like valve stem, or pieces of metal break and fall inside the bore, then there will be damage..In which case you should have total engine bore and Piston replacement...
                              So don't worry, your bike is now running well,which is the proof of your engine being ok.
                              The power is good i dont feel like anything is wrong in my bike....no smoke nothing but this mech really scared me .

                              Originally posted by psr View Post
                              Ignorance is the mother of many blunders....Many of these mechanics may not have even seen the inside of the engine totally ,but talk like authority...
                              lol so true...once i asked this same mech to clean the centrifuge filter and he refused saying opening that will change the timing .

                              Originally posted by psr View Post
                              Changing oil to 40 from 30 is only 10 weight more....an oil can be squeezed and propelled by metal pumps easily.My next oil change in my ZMA will be 20w50, and I am sure the only issue will be smoother and cooler engine.
                              In my KB100 I had even used 90 grade oil in Engine, for experiment....The only downside was the clutch disengaging was bad and in cold condition bike will move even if clutch is disengaged in gear.... I ran like this for 500 Kms without any issue...though i would advise against it.
                              What we should be worried about the oil is the Viscosity, and the additives in it...A friction Modifier like in Car oils is not to be used in Bikes with Wet Clutch, since it will lead to clutch slip...So a JASO MA2 specification ensures that the oil IS compatible for bike use.

                              also can you please throw some light on oil consumption in cbz xtreme? if i pour 900ml and drive it for say 1500kms the oil level should not change right? or is it normal for the engine to consume 100-200ml of oil ? the reason i ask is i am gonna measure the oil when i drain it next time.

                              One more question...should i clean the centrifuge filter after this valve stem incident(the top portion of the piston was all black) just to be safe?

                              will wait for your reply .
                              sigpic

                              Awesome indian militaryIndiaEquator - Sir Winston Churchill

                              Comment

                              • #2520
                                Originally posted by Pinaki View Post
                                To judge two oils you have use them in the same engine one after the other for two changes each under similar riding conditions . I have used both of these two like that only on my 4year old yamaha crux . I wasn't out there to test oils , I just had to fill fresh oil at 2000kms max .. .. and these were readily present at that shop then . They are both super performing oils in mineral in this grade , compared to the HP racer4 I had used just before on the crux . Difference is very subtle ( could be even just in my mind ) . The gulf 20w40 is smoother (for gearshifts and overall) throughout it's life but it becomes spent ( again by my gut feeling of the engine ) around 1700kms summer heat & stop-n-go riding . The motul is just a bit less smoothy feeling but a bit cooler ( it's a bit thicker to pour ) and keeps the same good engine feel untill about 2000kms . Take your pick , I am finicky old guy ,I doubt you'll even notice any difference .Remember that motul 3000 4t & motul 30004t plus are different oils ( both in 20w40 though ) and I have only tried the plus .
                                That was a nice review and very informative.Motul is available in yamaha SC right? do they have the plus version or the normal one any idea ?
                                sigpic

                                Awesome indian militaryIndiaEquator - Sir Winston Churchill

                                Comment

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