Got it. I'm pretty sure the oil was unusable in that state, because the engine got pretty harsh by the end.

Thanks for your time buddy, always appreciated.

Regards.

And another thing. 300v is not jaso or sae recognized oil. I see guys here wearing Snell dot and ISI helmets. So why this racism towards your engine by feeding it an oil not recognized for road use??
300v is an ultra thin oil that's fit for track use where you compromise with durability and very less usage of clutch. On the streets and in traffic you use 300v and expect engine life to not take a hit. Wow demands are high
CHEERS

The oil may have looked viscous but under operation the film layer on mating parts will be thin and that's where the engine takes a beating. Ever since we moved to unleaded petrol the oils have less to no amount of zinc phosphates in them. That's a key ingredient for saving engines under stress.
As it is i have little faith on these exotic oils that companies sell. I throw them Out as soon as I can justify an impending oil change.

CHEERS

I never visit svc most of the works are done by me.
Never faced tappets issue. Last adjustment was done 70k kms back.
Bike is 1.32 lakh kms old now.
Motul 300v is garbage period...
I would run my bike on piss instead.
CHEERS

I occasionally ride on the highways, and trust me after 100km of highway riding, no other oil holds its smoothness or whatever except motul 300v. Even I faced sudden low oil level using 7100 10w40 in my fazer in just 2500km draining, yamalube after 1000km starts hard gear shifts & engine harshness, but never faced any issues with motul 300v. I know it is an overkill to street bikes, but there is no cheaper option, mobil 1 racing 4t is not available in market, shell advance ultra having mixed reports in amazon.
P.S. I use shell v-power full tank once in a month and rest shell normal unleaded mostly.

I occasionally ride on the highways, and trust me after 100km of highway riding, no other oil holds its smoothness or whatever except motul 300v. Even I faced sudden low oil level using 7100 10w40 in my fazer in just 2500km draining, yamalube after 1000km starts hard gear shifts & engine harshness, but never faced any issues with motul 300v

If you think Engine oil = smoothness/whatever, then you are fundamentally wrong.

100kms of highway riding proves what?

What has using 300V in R15 got to do with "sudden low oil level" of 7100 in your Fazer?

"never faced any issues with motul 300v" <> Its called Placebo effect. Your brain thinks that just because you are using an expensive infamous engine oil, your engine might be performing better when infact its not.

Engine oil is not the only determinant for how fluid the gear shifts will be. And what do you mean by Engine harshness?

I used mobil 1 racing 4T three times in my previous r15 v1 2010 model. Mobil 1 feel smoothest even from 300v(as used by my friend one time only) main problem is availability. Its price is 650 to 700

@MotoBlizzard, brother, It seems you never used 300v and you must be going with the myth of "pouring a high end oil in low end bike is stupidity" and I don't want to argue with someone who throws certain unrealistic point of view without owning it or using it. Thank you.
I was riding highways with maximum ripping that engine while coming from Vizag to Kolkata, and it was March ending, 40+- degrees & hot highway, so Fazer got low oil level. But, never faced with 300v or Yamalube Semi-synthetic (earlier).
P.S. r15 is on 3rd can of motul 300v right now and fazer is on may be more or less 8th can of motul 300v now. I trusted it, thats why I said, I never throw "myths". Okay

I occasionally ride on the highways, and trust me after 100km of highway riding, no other oil holds its smoothness or whatever except motul 300v. Even I faced sudden low oil level using 7100 10w40 in my fazer in just 2500km draining, yamalube after 1000km starts hard gear shifts & engine harshness, but never faced any issues with motul 300v. I know it is an overkill to street bikes, but there is no cheaper option, mobil 1 racing 4t is not available in market, shell advance ultra having mixed reports in amazon.
P.S. I use shell v-power full tank once in a month and rest shell normal unleaded mostly.

you know all these debates can be settled if the recommended grade of oil is used as per the manual, when in doubt stick to the manufacturer's recommendations/products.

Thanks for the advice but all the oils we are discussing right now come under the manufacturer's recommended grade 300v, 5100, 7100, shell, mobil all are under the prescribed grades.Nobody is discussing grades here, we are discussing a single brand which also comes under the manufacturer's prescribed grade . So i assume this doesn't settle anything.

CHEERS

If there is a specific oil falling in the grade and which is being debated, then sticking to the manufacturer's product settles the debate. I am certain that Yamaha produces its own oil for the R15.

Not exactly. The oil is sourced from veedol and not manufactured by YAMAHA. Some say its manageable some say its bad.

CHEERS

Hi Guys,
My R15 V2.0 had problems with its Fork frequently. Tight movements and free play. Stock Racer Bearings wore out after 20K kms and had to replace it twice. I stumbled upon some DIYs that mentioned Taper Roller Bearings are good upgrade for regular cup & cone bearings. Also Taper Roller Bearings can withstand heavy loads more than the stock bearings. They don't wear easily and they provide the most smoothest movement possible while rolling under immense pressure. These bearings are found in heavy vehicles like Multi axle trucks to transfer the axle weight onto the wheel. They are also found in Car axles. So I followed some DIYs and decided to replace my stock bearings.

I has to disassembled the fork section, to measure the bearings. The exact measurements of R15 v2.0 racer cone is 25x48x12mm (Top bearing) and 30x48x15mm (Bottom bearing). Went it search for replacement bearings locally, to my disappointment I was not able to get them. All leading manufacturers like SKF, Koyo, FAG nobody manufactures Taper Roller bearings to my required spec. I had no option but to find them some how, because stock bearings were costly at Rs. 2,500 which I can't rely on. Finally found the required bearings on Amazon.co.uk delivering to India. Bough them from Pyramid Parts (Amazon.co.uk) on 24th July and got it delivered on 6th August. Although I wasn't still able to find exact matching for the top bearing online. The one I purchased is 1mm taller than the actual fitment i.e., 25x48x13mm. I hope it won't be a problem.

Actual cost of the parts Rs. 2000/- + Shipping Rs.800/- = Rs.2800/-

Attaching pictures of the bearings, will update on the performance post installation this weekend.

after ~4.5 years and ~28000 kms, my bike's battery finally gave up..and without much prior notice too..started as usual, ran for ~100 metres till the air filling station nearby where i'd switched it off for a couple of minutes for some reason, and then never started and started showing those signs (and a sound) of a blown battery...this happened a few days ago...i'd to leave for a trip that day so didn't have the time to rectify this that day..

anyways, i'm still out of station but wondering if i should order the battery online or wait till it reach my place and buy a new one from some relevant shop locally..any suggestions regarding if something like a battery can be bought online trustfully ? asking this seemingly trivial question because i am not sure how safe it is to buy batteries online (courier issues including)..also, any suggestions on which battery to buy for the R15v2 (2013)? i don't know which brand the stock one is and a google search is giving many possible candidates..