@NANOtechnology: You can use NGK Iridium, the NGK website states the stock replacement model no.for all Fieros. NGK Partfinder for Two Wheelers
I've been using this since 5-6K kms.&it works flawlessly on cold starts.

It's no big deal man we're here to help each other out.I am glad that you are thinking seriously about converting the fiero to a big bore one.The fiero engine has lot of potential that's why people who are technical about things have such respect for the bike .It's very well engineered .
I am imagining as to how you'll describe the performance once its a 180cc one.You were saying MASSIVE IMPROVEMENT after a .5 mm bore. If the job's done well ,then you will see what a 5.5mm increase in bore does to performance .
Regarding the dual mapping of the cdi,no need to worry about it.The F2 doesn't have a Throttle position sensor at the carb does it?If it does then some adjustments have to be made when and if you opt for a bigger carb, otherwise ,nothing to worry.
About the chain sprocket kit and gear ratios .My advise is keep it the same till the work is done .The reason is ,i want you and vishal to experience the difference in power in comparison to what you guys are used to
After you have felt the difference ,then you will need to change the gear ratios to make the gearing taller to handle the power. What will happen is once the gearing becomes taller the acceleration will go down a bit and top-end will increase.So tell me about the number of teeth on the gb sprocket and the rear sprocket and i will suggest a change in ratio ,that is,ride the bike after the cc is increased and let me know either you want more top-end or do you want to keep the present ratio.
You have done so much to the bike's lighting and electricalsMake some changes to the engine and performance .You and your bike will be happy for it and it will be much much more money well spent than going for K&N and other mods.As the yanks say" There's no replacement for displacement".


Anand

Frankly speaking I never felt any difference in power, pick up mileage or any other stuff, when I was using Iridium plug. It was way back when it was launched & was not available in India, Had ordered it from US. Used two of them CR9EIX for close to 60k on the odo. I personally feel its useful only if you have done serious mods to your engine else its just waste of hard earned money. Currently I am using G-Power series CR7EGP which is the medium one & costs only Rs.130/- which is way cheaper than the Rs.750/- Iridium.

P.S. - Just my personal opinion

Vishal

Pls Pls help with my front disk break of Fiero F2

My mechanic says that front disk break's disk is worn out and the sound is coming crazy.


I contacted tvs service centres and they don't have stock

Pls help me how can I change my front breaks' disk and pads

pls is there any other disk suitable with fiero f2

Pls help me with your experiences.

Why don't you ask whether apache 150's disk and brake pads fit your bike?I am confident that it should .The F2's disk is 3.5mm and i think apache 150 has the same thickness as well or maybe it's 4 or 4.5mm .Other than that,both are of 240 mm diameter.So i think it should fit.
If the apache disk is thicker than you can change the caliper to that of pulsar or apache and then your problem will be solved.

dude the disc plates and the caliper set whether F2's or apache's is not cheap.... even my front disc is making sounds like chic chic chic when the is applied or sometimes even when its not applied.

about 3yrs back i had changed the plates and the caliper. it set me back by almost 5K. dont know the current price. since our model has been discontinued, i think the price must have increased. but the disc pads are less than 300rs for sure..

how come you spoil your disk ??

never ever use the disk brake, if its making noise..
its an indication that the brake pads are worn out.

if you use that work out pads it would brake as good as before, but result in DAMAGING your disk..
it would have some grooves on it..
but i really don't think it needs to be replaced.
just change your brake pads, the noise will be gone.
braking will be as good as before.

Friends before buying any big carburettor ask someone who has some idea about such things otherwise it'll be just a waste of money.
The thing is, i've read some theory stuff and i'm no tuner .There are a lot of things to be done before going for a bigger carb ,For ex CFM ,that is cubic feet per minute .This is the engine's ability in intaking of air per minute at various percentage of cam lift and there are lot things which affect it .Which are the port geometry ,the valve size ,the engine's displacement,exhaust port geometry,the type of exhaust along with the air filter and of course the cam.
These things are tested on Flow bench and high lift cams are needed to explore the full potential of a carburettor.
The porting is more of an art than a science and tuners like Joel Joe have done these things on a practical basis and have learned the things.
So basically what i am saying is there's no way we can make our fieros with our basic knowledge to even come near a expert tuned machine in terms of performance.
What we will have with big-bore set up is a engine with higher capacity and along with it we will get a increase in torque at a higher rpm range.With gear ratio change and jetting we can even make some use of the torque to get better performance.So let's not get carried away .
Coming to the "bang for the buck" aspect it's definitely a much much better way to spend money than spending it on some performance filter.
Tuners like Joel Joe can make a much much faster bike with just porting without even touching the bore or other things.
So let's try and keep our expectations and budget on the lower side when we are getting these things done at a near by mech.

Anand

Yes, I also didn't find any difference in pickup/mileage in both my R15&F2. However, there is a marked difference in cold starts(maybe due to that self cleaning chamber/anti fouling tip etc.that they claim)&moreover since this lasts upto atleast 30K kms., I went for it in both cases. Btw I got it for Rs.475 against the regular MRP of Rs.550!

I had the similar situation a year back&finally got my disc plate+pads changed at the last service, which was at 50K kms.
Pay your SVC some money in advance, they will order it for you in a week-10 days time. You can alternatively use the Apache 150's assembly too, but you will have to change the caliper as well, since it is right side mounting. I have seen my mech.do this mod successfully. But if your caliper is not ruined, I would suggest to try to procure the F2 parts, which would work out cheaper as well.

That is due to small stone particles in the disc, especially after the rains its common. It should go away with a bit of water sprayed. If the sound is more, then it could mean your disc pads are not getting worn evenly, which could be due to wrong fitting.

Looks like the caliper is expensive, since at my last service when I got the plate+pads changed the costs were Rs.293 for the brake pads (as you rightly mentioned), and ~Rs.1675 for the disc plate. With the brake oil replacement, it costed me about Rs.2K.

The disc plate is also a wear&tear part, of course like you said we aren't supposed to use the disc when the pads are worn, but even with timely replacement of pads, the thickness of the disc will eventually decrease in say about 40-50K kms.&the braking efficiency will reduce, even with new pads. That is the time for disc plate replacement. I faced the same thing, no amount of brake pad replacement would help in braking so I was riding with only the rear brake for a year or so. But after the disc plate replacement, I sometimes feel front braking is as good as or even better than my R15's!

I've been using my F2 this week to office-its service is due but I'm broke so I've postponed it to end of this month/next month. It would be almost 3K kms.by then.
Today I got Nitrogen filled as there was no air. Lets see how it goes!

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A great piece of advice bro... Ya we should hold our reins and not be in a hurry to upgrade in a haste ... while upgrading is a good idea ... just imagine the power and torque, we need more info on various things and YES! ... "Find A GOOD Reliable & Experienced Mech." It could be a 180 cc or no cc at all."

What i meant is ,its a cheaper and surer way of souping up our bikes.That is if we opt for a 180 set up.But bigger carb without the related modifications will be a waste of money.Personally i am going for a bigger carb and i do have other modifications in my mind related to a bigger carb for the near future .So i am not expecting any earth shattering improvements right after the carb upgrade.
The best thing to do ,would be to go for a 180cc set up with jetting and gearing.

Anand

@NANOtech

Another info man,the 180 bore kit will cost a bit over 2k and within 2.5k

thanks buddy..
that will settle me down by 3.5k max i hope..

now tell me, if i go for a bigger carb, then?
or should i wait with this jetting thing only for now?

i am willing to do it asap, but vishal isn't free on weekdays, and i am not free on weekends.
so timing isn't mismatching, or else i would have done it by this week itself..

and i cannot do anything without vishal, i am paralyzed without him in all these things..
i am so exited and desperate to get it done and want to ride hard..

but I'll have to wait for run in of 1000 kms
damm, just 4000 kms ago, i finished my 1000 kms run in..

Porting is a must before upgrading to a bigger carb.Then bigger valves are also needed along with a free flow exhaust at the least ,our air filter should do the job though.So for the time being anyway don't go for a bigger carb.
I intend to wait a while before going for bigger valves.But for now i have paid for a 32mm carb and i will modify the stock silencer which is a megaphonic type to a free flow one.So lets wait and see .
For now i'd suggest jetting and gearing.What have you thought about porting? will you be getting it done?
I know running-in is a pain in the neck

Another important thing if we want really good performance and to exploit the bigger carb's potential ,then a high-lift cam is also needed.
Anand