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yes nano, but after i got my chain setting done and also oiling, i did ride the bike for about 300kms!! then one fine evening, after i came back from college(total60kms), i went out with a friend on my bike. i rode it for 15kms till our destination, it was running fine. but while returning the noise started comin. then for a whole day i didnt ride the bike. but the day after that i took out my bike, its then that the miracle happened!!!
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its common problem dude.
when i had a chain cover even i used to face such a thing.
sometimes when i used to go to a mechanic for finding a solution, when he used to test ride, it was working well, without any noise.
so i had to come back and later again this used to happen.
it was pretty embarrassing.
if you do plan to put up a chain tensioniser, you'll have to get rid of the chain cover dude.
chain need a lot of maintenance if the cover is absent.Giving a lot to a fiero.
Expecting a lot from a fiero.
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don't worry dude, chain won't break if your sprocket teeth are okay..
i had a bad experience with chain break once.
i was performing a burn-out in gravel.
as soon as i hit the road to wheelie, the chain was lying on the road behind.
this happened when my rear sprocket was badly damaged.
it was sooo long and lying exactly straight.
it was maybe 12 in the night and was a calm road with no one around.
had to push the bike all the way home with almost a 5 kg chain (maybe more) tied to my wrist.
coming back.
the chain won't break by just sliding by the cover.
make sure you never OVER tighten the chain.
there should be an inch of play in the tension from below.
open the rubber cap of the chain cover and check.Giving a lot to a fiero.
Expecting a lot from a fiero.
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Bike converted to full DC
Finally took an off yesterday, met up with NANOtech and got all the things sorted out. Now the electricals work like a charm. Day well spent and thanks to the rain gods also for not pouring on us while we were working on the bike
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Today morning ran the bike with all the possible electricals ON like:
Headlight : 35w
Aux lamp : 35w
Signal lamps : 4 X15w each=60w
Tail lamp : 20w
Horn : Dont know the wattage
Everything was working fine, loud & clear no issues at all. Planning to switch to 55w aux lamp.
All thanks to NANOtech. Both my Fiero's are now DC
Next project is to upgrade to LED's console,tail lamp to save power & use it to throw some more powerful light
You can go for conical filter or round filter. I think its RC-1060 or something in that series, dont really remember the name. But only upgrading to K&N will not give you boost. You will also have to upjet & tune your carb's air fuel ratio.Originally posted by ullal_h View Postalso want to fix a K&N. which type should i go for. advantages?
VishalLast edited by imjoshee; 08-20-2010, 11:59 AM.
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+1 to what imjoshee says.Originally posted by ullal_h View Postalso want to fix a K&N. which type should i go for. advantages?
and up-jetting will drink a lot of fuel.
me and vishal were discussing this yesterday itself !!!
60w for signal lamps??Originally posted by imjoshee View PostFinally took an off yesterday, met up with NANOtech and got all the things sorted out. Now the electricals work like a charm. Day well spent and thanks to the rain gods also for not pouring on us while we were working on the bike
.
Today morning ran the bike with all the possible electricals ON like:
Headlight : 35w
Aux lamp : 35w
Signal lamps : 4 X15w each=60w
Tail lamp : 20w
Horn : Dont know the wattage
Everything was working fine, loud & clear no issues at all. Planning to switch to 55w aux lamp.
All thanks to NANOtech. Both my Fiero's are now DC
Next project is to upgrade to LED's console,tail lamp to save power & use it to throw some more powerful light
Vishal
let's change them to LED's man.
60w are tooo much, your horn wight pull 2 amps each, which means approx 45-50w.
its great to know that you are finally happy and satisfied by the mod.
H3 HID is very strongly recommended.Giving a lot to a fiero.
Expecting a lot from a fiero.
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@Ullal
As pointed out by vishal and nanotech performance filters are a sure way to ruin the carb slide and ultimately the engine.They do make a difference when combined with carb tuning , tuned length exhaust and engine tuning.Provided its done by someone who knows what he's doing .Joel Joe has done wonders with it without touching the engine.But 99% of the time the performance filters like K&N and uni-filter give a psychological boost rather than any tangible results.They do make the exhaust loud and give a sense of bike gaining power but in due time the engine will reach a stage when it'll start sounding like the ape diesel load auto
Then pretty soon the engine will heave its last breath
They aren't cheap either.For the same money you can bump up the cc of your bike and get tangible bang for the buck!! There's no gain in power unless and untill something is done to the engine
If anyone wants to go for performance filters and free flow exhausts .Then its better to approach the right people for the job.Last edited by gixxer_junkie_m; 08-21-2010, 06:10 PM.Life begins, once you hit the power band !!
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Friends ,finally the carb blow out issue has been sorted out
The solution was ridiculously simple and practical which i should have been aware of in the first place.All it needed was to keep the throttle open a bit even as the bike is kick started.That's it! 
So now i am back to using the NGK iridium plug CR7E IX
and the engine is very refined too.
@ullal
Dude ,i know the feeling.You are dying to do something to improve the bike aren't you?
.Then my advise would be to,go for the RTR160 swing arm its cheaper and safer than the other things which might be on your mind.
AnandLast edited by gixxer_junkie_m; 08-21-2010, 06:07 PM.Life begins, once you hit the power band !!
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why don't you adjust the idling screw??Originally posted by gixxer_junkie_m View PostFriends ,finally the carb blow out issue has been sorted out
The solution was ridiculously simple and practical which i should have been aware of in the first place.All it needed was to keep the throttle open a bit even as the bike is kick started.That's it! 
So now i am back to using the NGK iridium plug CR7E IX
and the engine is very refined too.
permanent solution.
no need to hold the throttle at all.
just switch off the engine when you are standing at a signal.Giving a lot to a fiero.
Expecting a lot from a fiero.
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Guys I want a piece of advice from experienced riders.
The throttle in my bike does not come down to idle position (it takes ages to come down) after revving the bike. I wonder if the carb is the culprit here… I think the carb has been tuned too rich or something. I feel the bike is consuming too much fuel too. How can I set the throttle to respond in a crisp manner? You get my point… even when I open the throttle a little bit … say for initial pick-up the lag is there in the response and the bike travels for quite a distance in open throttle if revved quite hard and I have to apply the brakes.
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Take a screwdriver and tap the bottom of the carb a couple of times and see if there's any change.Originally posted by chief ashman View PostGuys I want a piece of advice from experienced riders.
The throttle in my bike does not come down to idle position (it takes ages to come down) after revving the bike. I wonder if the carb is the culprit here… I think the carb has been tuned too rich or something. I feel the bike is consuming too much fuel too. How can I set the throttle to respond in a crisp manner? You get my point… even when I open the throttle a little bit … say for initial pick-up the lag is there in the response and the bike travels for quite a distance in open throttle if revved quite hard and I have to apply the brakes.
Dude, is the carb a new one?Then in all probability
the slide is also new .Carb needs to be opened up .If the carb is new then the slide should be ok in the sense it should move up and down freely,check the spring too.Get the jet holder tightened and while you are at it check the free movement of the throttle body/butterfly .
Have you checked the throttle cable ?make sure its movement is free.Get the carb tuned properly.Last edited by gixxer_junkie_m; 08-23-2010, 05:06 PM.Life begins, once you hit the power band !!
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Had tried that and the engine ended up being in a high rpm idle.Thats the same reason why the other higher capacity bikes like rtr 160 and 180 have the same size pilot jets as the fiero(according to the dealer).I don't know whether their compression is more or less or how they have managed.Originally posted by NANOtechnology View Postwhy don't you adjust the idling screw??
permanent solution.
no need to hold the throttle at all.
just switch off the engine when you are standing at a signal.
As i mentioned in one of the posts that i have seen and heard of rtr180 experiencing carb blow out . I have also heard that the tvs has come out with a new intake manifold which i intend to replace mine with.I even thought about widening the holes of the jet but for the same reason didn't go for it.
If you see my bike's pic ,you'll notice that, to kick start the bike the foot peg has to be folded up ,just like in classic CBZ and my bike doesn't have e-start
.So i don't switch off the engine on very short stops and another thing is fuel will be wasted when the bike is stationary which to me doesn't make sense.
Last edited by gixxer_junkie_m; 08-23-2010, 04:50 PM.Life begins, once you hit the power band !!
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Had a crash today evening while coming to home from office. A guy was crossing the road
a Scorpio missed him & I was on the left hand side of the Scorpio. Banged into that guy and the next moment I was on the road. Saved because of the riding jacket I wear everyday, it is in bad condition now, knees and elbows have brusies & helmet has some scratches.
Damages on the bike, broken headlight dome, leg guard scratched and bent inwards, aux lamp minor scratches, foot pegs bent upwards.
Bike will be in garage for a day
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Lesson learnt : Always wear riding gear, helmet and stay extra cautious.
Vishal
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