yeah nanotechnology, i started this ownership thread!!! well i dont find any reason to overhaul my bike's engine just because of this weird rpm fluctuation issue!! and yeah i have changed the oil engine after almost 4000kms!! now the rpm seems to be stable. maybe it had to do something with the viscosity of the engine oil. the older the oil gets, the more it loses its viscosity and hence the engine idling rpm fluctuations!!

i just asked my ASS mech regarding opening of the engine. He said WHY?? the engine is absolutly perfect. and its giving me a decent milege of 52-55km/l.

I guess the only reason to open up the engine is either
1) you are getting a very bad milege.
2) Run in period not done properly (so in the long run it DOES AFFECT both the piston and cylinder)
3)There is loss of compression inside the cylinder.

i would also like to quote one more thing..

My friend has a 4.5yrs old Pulsar dtsi... since the past 5 months or so, he was facing a problem of bad pick up (in every gear) and also bad milege(below 40km/l). he got the bike checked with the ASS mechs.... they thoroughly checked the engine and then came to the conclusion that his engine was loosing compression (he found out by using the kick couple of times). Now he has advised him to open up the engine, clear off any carbon deposites around the valves and also he said that it needed grinding of the valves!

Now i think unless n until you face such extreme kinda problems then its advisable to open up the engine. and also v had a big argument with the bajaj ASS manager as to y is it needed to open the engine when its just 5yrs old and less than 50000kms on the odometer. then he said its because of bajaj quality!!

run in period is only for the new piston and rings, for nothing else..
gixxer is right, if nothing in the head of the engine is changed you can ride faster from 500 kms onwards, in my cast, my camshaft and the tappets were both changed, which included everything in the head..
i kept till 1000 and later swapped the plates..

no worries for run in after plates..
thanks to vishal, even in my case i had no idea about pressure plates, he told me, infact he only bought everything, i just paid the money ..
I'm lucky to have him handy at hand..

f2's tacho is a boon,
it tells when to change oil..
it tells when to change the clutch plates..
it tells when the battery is turned low (in my case due to all dc)



50-52kmpl... wow..
i get hardly 40..
lucky chap..

besides, all of us were facing a lot of engine issues, that's why we opted for all this overhaul to keep the baby alive..


@ imjoshee

sorry mate, i didn't know, but my mech told me that its same..
infact the one that i have is apache's
so either the mech is wrong, or the sprocket...
but works like a charm..

Guys, What do you mean by the engine head? ... do you mean the top portion of the three sections of the engine?!? Can you tell me what's in the engine head? like the tappets etc? .... so that I can determine my running-in period. Also is it necessary to follow the breaking-in processes after the clutch plates and pressure plates are changed?

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an update: ... Guys I need your expert opinions here ... My bike seems to stall ... meaning the bike goes off after riding about 4 kms or probably when the engine really heats up the bike just goes off ... sometimes in the middle of a busy traffic situation. This has happened two days in a row. I wonder what the reason could be. Could it be the carb? is it tuned too lean or too high? or what else could be wrong. It does not happen when I start the bike in the morning. This thing has been bugging me ... I might visit the mech this evening.

@ Chief : As you are aware the engine is split in 3 parts.

1st part - This part has your valves, tappets and cam shaft.If you see closely, there are 2 nuts on it. Upon opening them, the tappets are accessed and their play is adjusted. The function of the tappet is to help the valves to open or close as per the engine cycle.

2nd part - This part is the head & upon opening it you will be able to the see the lower part of the valves & the exhaust & inlet ports. Around the valves, you will see it all black, this is due to the carbon deposits. You will also be able to your spark plug protruding out, just adjacent to the valves.

3rd Part - This part is the block or cylinder, which houses the piston. Upon removing the block, you can see the connecting rod & the piston completely visible.

PS:This is what I know about the engine. If anything is wrongly mentioned, do let me know so that I can also get my knowledge corrected.Also will try to post the pictures to have a better idea.

Regarding the pressure plates(PP) , I do not have any kind of pictures for that. But the reason for replacing them while changing the clutch plates is that they might also have been worn out & mechs usually suggest changing them as you will be changing the clutch plates. As you would not like to open the whole thing again to just change the PP's
eg.Its like when you change the valves, you change both the inlet & outlet & not just one.

This is my humble view, it all depends on you whether to change it or not, but twice I have changed my plates & both the times I have changed the PP also.


Ok now some help on the electrical side(Am too bad on this). Nano I need your help here.
My dad's FX is giving this wierd problem from the past week. Sometimes the tacho meter works & sometimes it does not. Also when I start the bike & it is left idle, the needle moves UP and DOWN vigorously just like somebody is giving you a shock treatment. He is running on a 2.5amp dry sealed battery. Its like a self charging battery & been using it from the past 3 years. He said he got the battery terminals cleaned. But I still think that the battery is the culprit here & its life is over.


Vishal

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Thanks Vishal for the info and wow! that means everytime you change the clutch plates, you also change the PP. I did not know bikes had pressure plates.

Does anybody know the model of the Fiero Mikuni carb?
Can you tell me step by step the tuning process? would really appreciate it. I've tried it but I don't think it was a success as the mech changed it to some other setting.

Also would really appreciate if somebody could answer my question above about the engine stalling in the middle of the road. Thanks!!!

your right.
its battery problem...

when the battery is low, the tacho starts dancing...
besides try honking, you'll know the status of the battery ...

in my case, after all dc, i did face some battery issues, when the battery turned low, the tacho started dancing and later stopped working..
later the console lights started dimming too..
finally headlight turned off...

i was soo pissed, after a lot of trial and error i realized that the amaron 9 amp battery was faulty
i got it replaced and everything works better now...
2 hours in traffic with hid on is no issue anymore...

now i can use both together with no issues, everything is great...

get the battery replaced..
but since you are going for all dc this saturday, then don't worry, your coil will be re-winded and your rr will be swapped, with the battery too (i hope)..

it will solve all your battery troubles, and make your bike hid ready (in case you change your mind in the future)...

PS
can you make it early at arr 9 in the morning on Saturday??
i have my class at 1:30
both the coils might take 2-3 hours... (worst case)
if its done with me around it would be better.
i asked that guy to come early on Saturday around 9 am, so he might be there..
i even asked weather he has spare fiero coils, and he does.. (if you still need any)

let me know..

@ chief..

sorry to have missed reading your post buddy..

if its a +1 sized piston, you don't need to alter the jets as far as i know..
you can keep stock settings so no need to adjust anything in it as far as i know, maybe gixxer junkie would know better..
besides my carb is stock, no alterations, nothing at its working well..

regarding engine stalling..
i think there's something wrong here.
first of all engine never overheats if its bored (personal experience) so correct your mech here..

check your spark plug and inspect that there's no issues with the piston rings in the new block..

a rich fuel mixture is also a reason for overheating
did you check your air filter after all this work, if not then do it right now, if possible change that sponge on it..

i think there's air problems as that might only create rich mixture..
there are separate carb guys, find one locally and take your carb to him he'll know what to do..

gixxer junkie,
your inputs would be very much needed here....

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Thanks NANOtech,
Well, the heating seems to be subsiding now... I'm not too worried about it. The air filter is ok too. I checked it while it was washed and dried before assembly. I could get a new one though ... just because of my new bike . I also installed a new oil filter. I think the problem might be with the carb. The mech opened and cleaned it... did something with the pins before reinstalling it. I think he might have tuned it a bit too rich ... so the bike lacks air in the mixture. It might be that the carb is being over-flooded with fuel... just a thought... Got busy yesterday ... so will definitely pay him a visit today.

Can you shed some light on the carb tuning for the Fiero and the Mikuni make for Fiero? The mechs seem quiet keen on getting the work on our bikes done... but often neglect these nitty gritty things (but very important for us) and leave the bike feeling unfinished and unsatisfactory to the owner. .

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Udate: Well I tried tweaking the carb settings a bit this morning... after a couple of runs ... re-tweaks .... re-runs .... re-tweaks, I think I've managed to get it working again without the stalling problem ... I reached work and no stalling inbetween .... I guess the real fine tuning will have to be done again when I have a little bit more time to spare. I think the engine is still showing signs of hicups but only very slightly.

Chief ,
The carb on your bike is ucal mikuni bs26 .Regarding the carb tuning you can find the info in the carb tuning thread .
Regarding the tuning ,it varies according to the compression ,spark plug ,electricals,altitude,humidity ,ambient temperature ,engine temperature,fuel,air filter etc .So its a setting per bike and it cant be generalized for all bikes of the same kind. Yes its more trial and error .
Heating after a engine over haul is normal ,because it would have increased the compression and the bores need to wear out too hence there will be more friction.Mainly ,what happens is ,since you would have gotten used to the loss of compression and heat before the engine re-build.Its restoration to the std level will make you feel the difference.The increase in heat due to bumping up the compression is nothing at all .The heat will be from friction mostly and a good mineral oil will deal with it for the running in period.
The ignition timing and valve tappet clearance play a huge part in engine heat too and the most important thing is to get these things right .The richening of the air fuel mixture is a remedy in such cases but if these settings are wrong and air fuel mixture is very lean its a sure recipe for a engine blow out.
Air fuel mixture if its rich will make the engine cool and the opposite heats up the engine.So its always a good idea to keep the air fuel mixture rich to be on the safer side as variation in the above mentioned parameters can cause changes.
Since you said the mech has put a +1 size piston ,most probably it'll be a .5 mm oversize .So this wont need any jetting.Of course if the bore had worn out in a oval shape then it would warrant a use of the 1mm over size piston.But even this over size wont need jetting.
About the replacement of the pressure plates, the metal ones with tiny dimples on their surface.Its not needed to replace them every time the clutch plates are changed unless their teeth are worn out too or bent.
Another important thing friends.As nanotech rightly mentioned .When engine re-build is done or any kind of carb tuning is done ,try to read the spark plug.The spark plug should be chocolate brown to light brown in color .
The links below are from the NGK sites.The worlds best spark plug makers. There's also some clear and concise information about reading plugs.





Anand

@ gixxer

can a karizma's block fit the fiero engine, or just boring the piston to karizma's size in the same fiero block would have to be done as you did??

i don't plan to do such things, i am just asking you for knowledge..

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Thanks Anand, that was some very useful info and great links to NGK sites. Glad to have people like you on this thread.

The block cannot be changed. You will have to enlarge the sleeve on the Fiero block and then hone to the bigger piston. Its not done right, unless the cylinder head flows as much as that engine needs. else it will be slower than stock after 6-7k rpm.

Nice to see that you are still checking this thread Joe.In one of the previous posts ,there was a question to you as to why the rtr is so unrefined were as the fieros are silk smooth in the top end.Is it because of a lighter crank that the rtr is rough? I mean, i read that the MV AGUSTA F4 312's crank's weight was increased to smoothen the top end without the use of a balancer shaft.

thanks joel...

Bike converted to full DC

Finally now my Fiero is converted to full DC, all thanks to our very own NANOtechnology(Gagandeep) in helping me get the coil rewinded and get the wiringn sorted out to run the headlight through battery and flicker free.

One thing we noted here is that Classic Fiero does not have a starter coil, but Fiero F2 & FX have one. Got all the poles winded to a 19 gauge wire & 12 feet or more per pole. Got the RR changed to an Ape RR which is mighty one. Right now posting from office, will post pictures later in the evening.

Thanks again to NANOtech


Vishal