Thanks Vishal.Yeah its still a work in progress.I still have a few more things planned for her .
Coming to the increase in displacement.What they do is bore out the cylinder and put a new sleeve depending on which piston you opt for.That is ,i opted for Karizma's piston ,which has a bore of 65.5mm .So that resulted in the displacement getting to 195 odd cc's.Other than that i got the head ported too and there's a significant bump in compression too ,as i asked for more power.I am sure you know ,these things need to be get done by a lathe guy who has done it before and has some idea as to what he's doing.As the centering has to be done properly and the compression bump-up depends on the state of the reciprocating parts and the crank shaft's weight and it's ability to handle it.Another important thing to remember is that the quality of the sleeve should be good.
Apart from the above mentioned things the rest are simple enough .I got these things done at a good lathe and the fitting was done by the local trusty and knowledgeable mechanic.The gasket and packing need to be cut to fit the increase in bore.But these are things which any mechanic with some common sense can manage.The stud bolts can handle the extra load in compression.
Another important thing ,don't even think of getting this done at any tvs service centres. Trust me they don't have the capability to handle such work.
Of course the exception to the rule is ZEN TVS of Bangalore they are the best in the business.
After the running-in was over i took the bike to ZEN TVS and Mr Krishnamurthy the owner of ZEN TVS was good enough to ask Rajesh a mechanic who has lots of experience in such works to remove the bore and check the state of the sleeve etc.
I am still doing the jetting part .But i'll probably go for a bigger carb.
Regarding the disc brake .There wont be any need for welding or any kind of modifications needed .As the classic pulsar's disc brake is a direct fit.That is you need to buy the right fork's leg of the pulsar and the rest is direct fit.
The axle bolt is that of the fiero as pulsar has wider forks,and the worm is that of the CBZ classic. The leg is that of the first gen pulsar.

Anand

great dude..
almost 200cc is a massive improvement...
how's the performance
since you are saying there's a compression boost....
it seems that your top end must have gone high...
in my case i did bore my cylinder, but small enough to fit a +1 piston, all i can come across is a massive improvement in Mid range, top end is the same though, but sadly my bike doesn't revv more than 6.5k to 6.8k but still it gives me top speed as before 100-110 kmph....
previously i had to revv till 7.5 to 8k to reach those speeds...
so again i think its an improvement...

mech says after a while when bike runs more it will increase...

waiting for your performance details....

@ all
guys do answer my query too in the previous page...

Fiero Lovers

I'm back after a week out of town and out of touch. I see many positive and progressive posts here. Good to see the forum moving...

@NANOtech : Glad you got the leakage thing solved. When my bike leaked, I just replaced the black circular patch of rubber on the engine head and sealed it properly which solved the leakage problem… It has not leaked since I did it last year. Your HID – dual headlights look menacingly deadly. I’m sure it signals “Get outta my way!” to the oncoming traffic. Well a setup like that will surely have it’s impact on the battery. Now about the revving part, I’m a novice when it comes to engine mechanics … all I can do is to suggest you to check the throttle cable, clutch cable and the clutch plates and have them replaced with originals if available.

@imjoshee / gixxer junkie m : guys I need a little piece of info regarding the FX headlight. I’m worried about the bracket the supports the dome. Does our Fiero have the brackets or does it need to be acquired and welded separately?

all thanks to imjoshee to help me cure my oil problems...
and thanks for complementing hid/halo combo man...

yes it works like a charm,
battery problem is solved as i did coil rewinding and ape rr installation...
besides i use a 9 amp battery which does the required job.
but if i use both the beams together in traffic, then i have battery issues...
so far its okay and yes i get a lot of respect from oncoming traffic specially with HIGH beam on .........
even trucks give me way to go....

i have to work upon a diode to attach to the flash switch, so that i can assign it to high beam only...
as flashing hid's spoil its life bro...

regarding brackets, don't worry...
get a hang on a headlight assembly first, if it doesn't fit then go for modification of brackets...
if you are not getting a specific headlight then you can settle down for any big 7-8 inch round headlight which has a h4 socket...

try asking local car accessories shop for auxiliary headlights or head to junkyards, you might find some cool headlamps there also...

by the way
in my setup
i used a Skoda Octavia projector (oem) for HID
and a pulsar 220's high beam reflector for 55w halogen

both of these were sourced from junk..
the cost...

p220's high beam reflector --- 50 bucks
skoda's h3 socket projector -- 200 bucks
amount of efforts --- priceless....

my bulbs are way more expensive than the headlight assembly ...

hope your headlight thing gets rectified soon..
and yes
i did do all cable tightening stuff, nothing worked so far...

What you might be experiencing could be a flat-spot in the transition from the mid-range to top-end.If you have taken out the carb slide or something while servicing it ,then check the needle-jet's setting .
Otherwise since the engine is revving ,and bike isnt responding in proportion it could mean clutch problem .It might need re-adjusting as you have mentioned its a new set.
A flat-spot/delay in mid-range to top-end performance means loss of compression .So in order to rule out compression loss due to worn out valve seal or rings or piston or bore issues,check the spark plug state.

Hey Joel, Had a doubt. Why is the RTR so unrefined compared to the Fiero which was totally opposite.

Yeah man,bike's performance has definitely improved.I mean as there's a increase in cc's ,so torque was sure to go up resulting in good acceleration .Since its a over-square config now ,the bike revvs easily and feels similar to rtr 160 in free revving nature that is.The torque and power are developed at a higher revv now due to bigger bore .Along with it ,i've put a 14 teeth gb sprocket to make the gearing taller .Which means there will be an increase in top-end for sure.I haven't tested the top end yet ,as the jetting has to be taken care of first.With the stock main jet acceleration was real good ,it'd feel like a rx 135.But i've put a 115 main jet now which has made the initial feel sluggish in comparison to that of the stock main jet.The idea is to ensure the engine runs cool in top-end.
The issue at the moment is that because of a lean pilot jet mixture the carb is getting blown off!! i mean while starting if i didn't use the throttle properly there would be a loud bang like a cracker going off ,that's because there would be a back fire through the inlet manifold blowing the carb off neat!!. There's nothing wrong with the valve train ,manifold etc.Its due to a lean pilot jet.Another thing which was causing it was that i had been using a iridium plug of the same heat range NGK R CR7E IX which is very sensitive causing the blow back.Then i switched over to NGK R CR9E as bump up in compression needs cooler plug.But i found that engine is more refined with the stock plug which is NGK R CR7E .Let's see how things turn out,once the carb issue is sorted out i'll check her top-end.
Another thing, i saw a rtr 180 facing the same issue of carb being blown off due to higher compression.The ignition timing was checked and its fine.

i have one question....

the FieroF2 manual says that oil change is required at intervals of 5000kms... so is it ok to change the oil at around say 4k - 4.5k?? if u check the manuals of other bike manufactures in the 150cc class they mention the oil change interval after every 3500kms. the pulsar dtsi manual says 2200kms!!!!

and how do i make out whether an oil change is needed (other than just lookin at the dip stick)?? i mean while riding?? many times i have crossed the 4.5km mark, but still i dont feel anything different!!!

It's rather simple.You can play it by the ear.That is ,after riding continuously for about 25 to 30 kms ,if you hear an increase in engine noise.That is noise from the engine head then it means oil's getting too thin from the heat generated and isn't lubricating the parts properly.Time for oil change.

Yeah it would be a good thing to see this thread being more active.About the bracket.Yes the fiero's bracket wont be of help.You'd have to buy a fx's or pulsar classic's or as in my bike's case the samurai's bracket.The thing is if you opt for samurai's bracket you would have to bend the brackets a bit near the bolts in order to accommodate the wider doom.What i did was to wrap a cloth around the bracket and bent it to the required angle with a plier.

well, i think there might be a problem with packing below which holds the block...
regarding carb, i don't have much idea about the same but i suppose the clutch is fine, as it used to happen previously as well as now, so i don't necessarily think that it might be a culprit...
will check though...
and yes spark plug is more oily then before...
doesn't start in one kick...
it leaked a bit of oil after a 273km tour..
i didn't open it to see the condition as i don't have a toolkit thanks to the 9 amp battery...
should i ??

now that's a man who does his homework properly....
one word dude ---> GREAT...
how much more has the compression increased, have you put up a piston with a shorter stroke ??
or its just the bore which increases the compression ??

shortening of stroke would definitely heat up the engine more my friend...
besides let me ask you 2 questions as i can't resist not asking..

1) Why not settle for a bigger bike instead of all this juggad ????
(forgive me for asking this as even i too kinda tried to keep my bike and not opt for a new one)

2) How much damage on the pocket??

Chief: Our Classic Fiero headlight bracket will not support the round headlamp. You need a bracket from the bike which has a round headlamp like FX, Pulsar or Samurai. I have used a FX bracket, its height was bigger than our stock bracket so cut it and got it welded. Else like Anand mentioned, you can use Samurai's bracket and bend it as he has done.

Anand & Gagandeep : Both you guys have done a rebore and plonked in new piston to get extra power. Anand what you have done is a BIG mod.

But I have a stupid question here.

Dont you think that even if you have a bigger carb, higher displacement engine, sprocketing, iridium plugs etc etc, Fiero still lacks that extra cog(5th gear) which will make it still go faster. Many times I do wonder what would have happened if we had that extra cog on the stock engine . We would be way ahead than others at the red lights drags Though we can still catch up with them, but somehow I feel underpowered.

What you say guys?

@ALL : Phir se problem aagaya. Now I am facing this issue of battery not charging at idle. If I am at the signal with the brakes and I honk, it does not work . I need to rev the engine to honk. What could be the reasons? Please help!!


Vishal

Number of cogs doesn't matter what matters is the gear ratios.Yeah extra cogs do help .But that once again depends on what you are looking for.Say if you want to race in a circuit ,then you might be happiest with a close ratio gear box with many cogs.
What matters is the engine character ,like what the engine designers wanted and these things decide where the power is developed .Things like port geometry,cam ,valves ,bore size ,stroke length,exhaust and weight of the crank-shaft along with fueling decide whether the bike is made for initial pick up or mid or top end performance .
Joel Joe has done a lot of these things and i am sure that's why he appreciates the fiero's engine so much,because it has potential.
An prime example would be the SUZUKI GS150 .It has 6 cogs ,but engine is designed for initial and mid range only .So it looses speed in the 6th cog,which hence is a overdrive gear.
For serious racers/tuners like Joel Joe ,there might be a need to fit another cog in the fiero's box .As they tune the engine very high.For me i'd be lucky if i could manage to hit the revv limiter.

Damage on the pocket? Damage was:-
Re bore + sleeve + porting + head re-set(as the bike was drinking oil because of a worn out valve seal and guide .Which was due to making the engine lug in gears as i had made the ratio too tall for a std fiero engine to handle .The bore ,piston and rings were fine) + valve oil seals + guides + valve lapping + karizma piston and rings came to 2,200 rs.These are the lathe work charges.
Plus the fitting labor, gasket,packing,engine oil ,main jets of pulsar which cost 17 bucks each .
Totally i spent 3,000 Rs. I already had the NGK iridium plug ,i subsequently bought the other plugs mentioned.