the other cause may be because of some amount of water that may be present inside the fuel tank. you had said that all the electricals are OK. so this maybe the prob. not sure though!!

or else there is some short circuit in some of the wires (ignition system) which is not easy to harness. now when u sit on ur bike looking at the tank, look to the right side of tank(near the Difi logic panels) there is a whole bunch of wires covered with a rubber coating. the wires inside r related to the ignition system of ur bike. get them checked. u mite need to lift up the fuel tank to gain access to those wires.

Yeah he drained out a lot of water from the tank after washing too, but still the bike regused to start. Started again as though nothing happened in half an hour though!

You mean the F2 panel. Yeah, I pulled the connector out from behind the handle only.
I also have a doubt on that area only-the auto electrician will confirm it. Thanks for the replies!

@ Sarvajit, yes the F2 panel! u must have seen that fat rubber coated wire that runs from the fairing side to the underneath of the tank. get it checked from the TVS mech itself. u might have to leave ur bike for sometime. he will remove the fuel tank and check the condition of the wires plus he will have access to the CDI. if alls weel, then he will have to cut the rubber coated tube to access the wires inside.

@sarvajit- i had similar starting problem in my victor back in 2002.My bike used to be washed daily,the culprit,water had entered the plug adaptor right between the wire and the adaptor.Later i put an insulation tape at that part and voila,no more starting troubles in the morning.

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I was in a hurry when I went to buy the spark plug... I said CR7E and the shopkeeper nodded and handed it to me. I paid and left thinking I'd get it installed tomorrow.
Shock! when I later realized that this plug was NGK CPR7E. Now I wonder if it is a different plug altogether or is it the right plug for Fiero. On the cover "Recommended for use Honda Shine" is written. help me guys... otherwise I will have to go and return the plug tomorrow another loss of time.... specially because the problem has not been solved. I realized today that the problem is getting more frequent... infact when I revved the bike on an uphill climb, the bike actually stopped today. It could be the spark plug or the sparkplug cap... but the mech says that since the firing is going on at the sparkplug level, that means the cap is not the problem. Well guys, I am ready to try out everything, but let's be sensible and try out one thing at a time... So spark plug will be replaced tomorrow. So...

is the CPR7EA-9 the right one?

@ chief

buddy give a new spark plug a try, it MIGHT help as i had suggested before, if that's not helping go to an auto electrician and get your coil and pulse generator checked.

@ sarvajit

dude, in your F2's case, there's no point replacing the spark plug adapter again and again, in past some years every time i used to face this issue during the rains, i ended up buying a lot of adapters and nothing really helped.

lately my bike refused to start when it was parked under my class, as there was a short rainfall which caused the same issue.
i got rid of the connector and connected the wire directly to the plug avoiding the connector, and the bike did start, the other day after drying it completely i installed it back and was fine then.
but this problem kept on occurring now and then
the ONLY way i got rid of it was grease.
i applied oodles of grease on the sides of the plug that even if the block is dipped inside the water, the spark plug wouldn't get wet at all.
so far it has been 2 years, and i start the bike in a single kick even after hours of torture the bike has to bear in the mumbai rains.

just with this new plug (installed with new bore kit) grease is missing as i did it after the rains got over.
will apply it before rains,
try it, i feel it will surely solve your issue.

in case its not WET issue which isn't starting the engine, check your Yellow coil in the stator, the auto electrician will check its resistance and let you know weather its working well or not, or check the pulse generator too, this is responsible in starting too in a way.


@ all

now lets come back.
i got my bike Serviced today, bought an ELF can, bought bar end sliders of the FZ's handle and got the oil bolt plate replaced as my bolt was slipped.

the mech was busy so i decided to give the bike a nice pressure wash before, i asked the washing guy to be very very careful with my dome as my Dual hid mod has kept my entire headlamp assembly open from behind, if water is sprayed, it can enter the headlamp glass very easily.

i went to a friend's place as the guy had many bike's pending too and had given me a 2 hour bracket just for my turn in washing, when i came back, the first thing i did was check the headlamp, luckily no water had entered inside (seemed like) but my battery cover was fallen down and the guy couldn't put it back as i have affixed a 9 amp battery in the slot of a 2.5 amp one, so attaching the cover back over it is a herculean task which only i can do that too rarely.

the guy had opened it up to remove my papers and so on, as he couldn't fix it back, the b@$!@%d gave a nice pressure wash to the battery too thus this loosened and removed most of the wires attached to it.

but since the damage was done, there was no point of arguing, strangely otherwise he had given a good wash.
i rushed to the mech, installed FZ's plastic bar end sliders which i hate a lot, the only reason why i installed it is because once i put my finger in that handle pipe (its tempting when your not used to hollow handle end) and it came back out after 1/2 an hour, yesterday a friend did it too and he took 45 mins to pull it out.
so i wanted to close it before me or someone looses a finger.

after basic knick knacks, it was time for the front fork oil seal as they've been leaking oil since quite a long time, but my mech suggested me to change the entire suspension rod, infact both of them.
but 1200 odd bucks was not necessary all of a sudden so for a while i am okay with just the seals and new fork oil.
i bought 1 can of veedol fork oil and oil seals too.

but after doing all of this, i went for a ride, the damm suspensions remained stiff and didn't even move a millimeter. it felt like i am riding a bicycle, the mech did it again, installed it back, checked all stuff for movement, installed the mudguard put the front wheel back and DAMM, it still felt like a bicycle with not even a mm of movement.

for the third time, it was being opened but the issue was strangely the holder which is placed below the mudguard, we tried to just fit the holder and still the suspension didn't move.
so the mech suggested me to get rid of the holder and installed the mudguard just like and the problem was sorted.
now the front forks work well, it was too late so i came back home, but strangely realized that the battery issue caused due to the washing guy wasn't lighting my high beam, there are 7 odd wires connected to the battery's +ve terminal, going through 4 odd fuses of different amperes and since its done all by myself there's no count of coloring as which color goes to +ve and which goes to -ve, so it resulted in 3 blown fuses, and still the high beam relay wire (which was blue as i remember last) was missing so i tried to route it from somewhere under the seat and DAMM i pulled it from its socket installed under the seat, and thus the main wire (which holds power to ALL the electricals of the bike) also got pulled resulted in complete shutdown of all the electricals. As i was too tires and frustrated to pull of the battery socket, pull of the seat and maybe pull of the tank too, just to connect that wire..

since i was doing it at 8:30 PM in the middle of the road, i got frustrated and left it as it is and rode back home with complete electrical shutdown.
damm riding without lights and horns is soo scary, its dark and no 1 bloody cares if there's something coming, that too being used to Dual hid's this situation is more than a nightmare, i almost got killed 3-4 times by on-coming vehicles as they wanted to grand theft auto me all the time.
these same people used to ride/drive 6~8 feet away from me when my high beam was on...

i reached home, and realized that the front fork covers (the chrome cap over it near the speedo) was missing from both the sides, i left it back at the mech and he had forgotten to install it back specially after opening it 3 times, and the mudguard makes vibrating noise over 40 as its installed without the holder.
btw, the front brake works like crap, maybe an air bubble must have entered.

the ride otherwise feels best, but what should i do with the forks ? I can't run it without the mudguard holder as in the future it will start chattering, i have experienced this before when my mudguard (front portion) just swung away and hit my chest on the highway at the speed of 80 kmph.

with the holder, it doesn't move the forks.

apart from that the feeling of the entire wiring's re-routing to be done again is already making me feel angry, disappointed and i also feel like sobbing.
i am extremely tired doing it over and over again and feel like keeping it as it is with entire shutdown, the wost part is NO ONE apart from me can do it, as its my own setup.


update:-
@ chief

get your plug replaced.
its not meant for fiero's, i don't know exactly weather it will harm in any way, but its not meant for this bike definitely.
get the CR7E plug or the CR7EGP G powered plug or the CR7EIX Iridium plug.
But make sure CR7E remains the same.

Friends, an update.

I got the new spark plug installed ... did a check before the installation with both the plugs and the new one definitely seems to spark more. I also got a new brake lever installed as with the last one the round tip had broken off. Got a new brake shoe for the hind wheel and the crunch is definitely there. With the new spark plug, I did a rev test.... when parked in neutral and revved, the high and low sound is still there when revved to the max limit. I wonder why!?!

... but as I rode to work, the misfiring was not there. Although I cound not rev really hard due to traffic. I guess the initial problem is sort of solved for now... I will try out the acid test this evening ... by going on that narrow, steep inclination with twists and turns at high revs. That will let me know the situation. Because yesterday, as I was climbing the slope, I revved hard and the bike actually came to a halt. I had to kick start mid-hill.

About the high / low exhaust note while max revving on neutral, the mech says I might have to get the coil / wiring / CDI checked with a proper coil mech. I will probably wait a day or two with the current setup before going there. The mech has given me the location of the coil mech.

What do you guys say?

What if I need to change the CDI? Fiero CDI is expensive and might be difficult to source out. Can I go for RTR 160 TCI / CDI? if the answer is yes, what are the things that I will have to purchase? and the approx cost?

Thanks guys, you have been a big help. Cheers!

@NANO,
bro you have been quite right about the spark plug thing and the coil thingy as well. Thanks!

Sorry to hear about your case and the blown out fuses and all. I guess you will have to take the trouble again. Just be more careful when giving for a casual wash. These guys don't care and just want to get the job done. A strict and proper instruction should be given before a wash job.

That mech.is doubting the magneto coil assembly&asking me to change it-what an idiot! Or he thinks I'm an idiot (or very rich which I'm in no case) that I'll spend almost 2K on something that is working fine!


It only happens in wet starts, never otherwise.
Now shall I put grease or an insulation tape? That new RTR type sparkplug cap also looked good.
Btw, your fork problem is minor, IMO. Take it to a fork repair mechanic&get everything examined. Replace oil seals&ask him to measure the quantity of oil correctly before refilling, overfilled fork oil will make it too rigid.
Check whether there are any scoring marks on the inner tubes, if yes, you may need to change.
Also check the length&tension of the inner springs. This could also be the culprit.
There is nothing left inside the fork-it has to be one of these.

Nano is right, CR7E is the one for all Fieros. NGK Partfinder for Two Wheelers
Are you sure this is an electrical issue? Could it not be carburettor related? Gixxer is facing a similar issue of misfiring at mid range. After checking all electricals, the culprit was finally found out to be the carb.
Anyways, its always better to get the electricals checked as our bikes are growing old.

i did chief !
infact i really explained him everything, but it doesn't help.
i NEVER give my bike for a wash, i always wash it myself, but these mechs while servicing need a washed bike, hence i did it.
it takes me 4 hours generally to give the bike a spick and span bath, with waxing at the end.


@ sarvajit

buddy, water will enter the tape somehow or the other, but if you fill it up with grease, it wouldn't even let a drop of water to be stuck there.
even i've been with a tape, it does help but time to time you will have to remove it as it turns DAMP inside.

go fir grease, it will settle you down.

besides my forks work PERFECTLY fine without the mudguard holder, so oil leveling and other things are not an issue.
its a strange situation.

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Sarvajit,
the carb is quite new ... just got it installed last year. But yes that could be faulty too. The mech says it's fine, had it cleaned properly and he says it's not to be blamed. The mech says he has seen several Fieros come and replace the CDI. No doubt Fiero CDIs are great ... but one can never rule it completely out as problem free forever!. Yes, a checkup of the electricals also makes sense. Fieros are indeed growing old.

so suppose if my bikes CDI fails, so wont my bike start at all?? or some other symptoms?? plz give a brief and detailed explanation regarding the failure of CDIs, so that i can be well prepared for the worst!!

better replace it with the rtr adaptor,grease attracts dust.Insulation tape will also do good.

There's no in between thing when it comes to CDI fault or ignition coil fault,if either of the two goes dead.The bike stays dead.

The symptoms faced by sarvajit and chief ashman indicate that it's not a CDI or Ignition coil issue.

If the CDI gets stuck in a retard map ,then also it will perform without issues.