ok so how much would this conversion cost me? (approx price). and wat else would i hv to replace? spark plugs etc etc. i heard u say that the TCI unit a free revving unit i.e. there is no revlimiter like the CDI?

The prices are :-

TCI unit(Apache 150,RTR 160/180) = 650 Rs

Ignition Coil =450 Rs

No need to change the spark plug for a stock engine.Yes the TCI unit of (Apache 150,RTR 160/180) don't have a rev limiter.

Seriously, don't go around stocking things like CDI/TCI when you go touring these things usually will outlast the bike.

so for the conversion i would require the apache 150's or rtr160's TCI for my F2??

and what bout the igni coil?? even that has to be from the apache 150/RTR160??

Yes ,but you can use 180 one too,for ex ,over-bored fieros like 180/200 ones are using RTR 160 or Apache 150 ones successfully.

Yes ,that's correct.

The mappings are different for the above mentioned bikes,that's why the color coding.

An update:-
I rode my bike to work this morning and it was without misses. Rode back this evening revving... took that winding, steep slope for a test. The bike did not miss. Thanks to the new spark plug, the misses while riding has disappeared. However, the chain feels loose again... which was just tightened this morning and is scraping the chain cover. Man! the new sprockets are troublesome... I might have to change back to the original setup. Can anybody tell me the original Fiero sprocket teeth count ... both front and back? I'm wondering why the thing gets so loose so quickly. Besides the exhaust note while max revving in neutral still goes up and down ... from the morning test. I dont have a clue why.

Work required for the fiero

model 2002
km run 34k
Work required to be done
1-New tyres as rear is ralson and front tvs stock that came with the bike.
2-carb needs general service,but i intend to swap it out with a BS29
3-new battery as the ol one has gone kapuut
4-A good thorough service-spark plug,filter-air and oil replacement
5-Tappet and head gasket replacement
6-Brake liners fr and back
7-suspension-front-fork oil replacement and overhaul,rear-overhaul or replacement
8-Disc breaks if budjet permits or maybe after a few months
9-chassis-what about the rust near the swing arm area?
10-wheel spokes need replacement
11-footrests and crash guard(can i fit the one from the rtr?)
12-headlight unit from the ambition(already have it in my unicorn,so will swap it out)

More work once i get the bike(if i buy).The owner is ready to give me 42k for my 2007 31k run unicorn.The people in my society are calling me a nut case for exchanging mine bike with an ol one,maybe i am hehe

Yeah i can imagine their faces My advise would be to keep things to a min.Yeah you can fit the RTR crash guard with welding done for the brackets on the chassis ,my bike has it. Rear shox need overhauling and nothing more from my experience.

The front tyre will last without any problems ,provided you go for a lower handle like that of the FZ ,i am sure you have tried it on nanotech's bike.The headlight and carb change will be for the better.

what about the rust in the swing arm area,especially near the engine mountings,event the bolt heads have got rusted???
and yes i felt nanos bike comfortable with the fz handle.

@ gixxer.

i was supposed to get the carb tuning done with the CO machine after my service was finished as i didn't get it done from the tvs guys..

but that suspension problem and electrical shutdown delayed it soo much that i just forgot it.
I'll get it done within 2-3 days.
thanks for reminding me...

besides, the yellow coil in the stator (only in F2 and FX) is responsible for the spark plug to ignite in these bike's case.
your bike's coil (all classic fiero's) has no yellow pole, so everything is controlled by the cdi directly.

if you compare classic fiero's CDI and F2's CDI you'll realize the classic one is as bigger that a standard cellphone but my bike's CDI is 1/4 th of its size.
is it a TCI ??

btw, as far as the electricals are concerned, its not always true that the coil and stuff inside it like the pulse generator and yellow pole remain healthy.
its not true either that if in case these stuff are gone bad, the bike WON'T start.

I've never heard it in a fiero but in case of pulsars, after every 30k, you need to change your pulse generator, it looses its resistance.

if you see the fiero's stator, honestly speaking its the wost winded stator I've seen in any bike until now.
splendor has a single pole stator, its much better winded, pulsars are masters of stator, they have machine winded stators.
HH, Bajaj, Honda, etc all have amazing stators but the worst stator I've ever seen comes from TVS bikes...

in case of CDI, i agree it never turns faulty just like that, i just wanted chief to check weather the pulse generator has lost its resistance or not.
as there's nothing left in his bike apart from the coil (which has no concern in this) pulse generator and the CDI..

the thing is that these stuff remain dipped completely in oil, so are coated with a varnish, with time this varnish does dissolve in the ever changing oil and hence gets eroded, heat also effects.
so its likely to under-perform with time.


@ chief

are you using the same honda shine's spark plug ??
or did you get it replaced ??

its true what gixxer says, these guys generally put the blame on the electrical department as they can't work on it, you have 2 choices, either go to a trustworthy and known mech whom you have a good service history with so that he doesn't cheat you, or go to the auto electrician just like that without any reference from the mech.
ask him to check the black thing in the coil (as he can never check a CDI) he'll check the resistance with the multimeter, note the readings, if he insists to replace it with the one he has in stock for you ask him to check that too before installing, if it shows lesser or equal resistance give him a tight slap...

as you mention your chain tends to loose pretty often even with new kit, does it have a chain cover installed ??

@ rakesh

dude, you don't need to change the suspension (rear ones) as of now as they've run only 32k kms so far.
front fork oil and seal job will do if there's no damage on the rod (which will be visible)

regarding the tappets if they are not deformed or lost play, no need to replace them too.

going for Fz's handlebar will make it easy to handle and brake, but those bar end sliders cost more than the handle itself and you cannot install fiero metal sliders again.

there's nothing left in the air filter to replace apart from the sponge as i assume the metal scoop isn't deformed.

BS29 is a great idea.

spokes might not need a replacement as they do not rot if old, its aluminum, just change the bearings and install new rubber which you already know.

go for amaron pro bike rider maintainence free battery, if in case your RR isn't working well i have 1 in extremely well condition.
if maybe your block and piston is damaged, go for 180's its better with the BS29 carb.

i don't think there will be any electrical issue with that bike if the mouse or rat haven't eaten any wirings.

crash guards and other stuff like footpegs are a personal choice can be done by a little bit of welding.

anyone to answer this?

================================================== ====

That to me looks like it is caused by the spill-over acid from the battery. Too much acid in the battery makes it overflow as we ride the bike and acid is corrosive. I have faced a similar situation where the paint in the swing arm area has been pealed off. Need to get that repainted. If you notice, the area is right below the battery compartment.

[QUOTE=NANOtechnology;537533]@ gixxer.

btw, as far as the electricals are concerned, its not always true that the coil and stuff inside it like the pulse generator and yellow pole remain healthy.
its not true either that if in case these stuff are gone bad, the bike WON'T start.

I've never heard it in a fiero but in case of pulsars, after every 30k, you need to change your pulse generator, it looses its resistance.

if you see the fiero's stator, honestly speaking its the wost winded stator I've seen in any bike until now.
splendor has a single pole stator, its much better winded, pulsars are masters of stator, they have machine winded stators.
HH, Bajaj, Honda, etc all have amazing stators but the worst stator I've ever seen comes from TVS bikes...

in case of CDI, i agree it never turns faulty just like that, i just wanted chief to check weather the pulse generator has lost its resistance or not.
as there's nothing left in his bike apart from the coil (which has no concern in this) pulse generator and the CDI..

the thing is that these stuff remain dipped completely in oil, so are coated with a varnish, with time this varnish does dissolve in the ever changing oil and hence gets eroded, heat also effects.
so its likely to under-perform with time.


@ chief

are you using the same honda shine's spark plug ??
or did you get it replaced ??

its true what gixxer says, these guys generally put the blame on the electrical department as they can't work on it, you have 2 choices, either go to a trustworthy and known mech whom you have a good service history with so that he doesn't cheat you, or go to the auto electrician just like that without any reference from the mech.
ask him to check the black thing in the coil (as he can never check a CDI) he'll check the resistance with the multimeter, note the readings, if he insists to replace it with the one he has in stock for you ask him to check that too before installing, if it shows lesser or equal resistance give him a tight slap...

as you mention your chain tends to loose pretty often even with new kit, does it have a chain cover installed ??

================================================== =====

Paid the mech a visit this morning... he is sure that it has something to do with the CDI. He says the current supplied is just not sufficient. He pulled out the plug cap, started the bike and showed me the current. He says there is not enough spark. He then did the same on a Unicorn and the current flow was more. So he says that the falult lies with the CDI or the Ignition coil.

Thanks Buddy, Will surely look in to Sirac street

Thanks bro.. I am yet to see a potential buyer for My CBZ Until then Fiero is idle & I cannot start the work.

Anand = Arnold

I think the exhaust note might be a carb tuning issue.
Btw which sprocket are you using?

I gave Abhi some tyre options, do check them out!

As Nano said, go for the Amaron MF type. I have the Beta series with 4 year warranty. Been running since a year with no issues.
Here is the website: Power Fitments

Take it to a fork repair mechanic-he will check the condition of the springs&inner tubes too.

Replied below.

Take it to a wheel throughing mechanic-he will straighten out the bends in the rims also.

I agree, why are you doing this then?

Very minor buddy, wash the bike well first. Then, just take some black paint, dab it on the rusted areas. Don't worry about the screws, only their heads are rusted, same was the case in mine as well as many other bikes. Battery leakage is common&so is this symptom. I got the nuts replaced. If you want to be on the safe side, spray some WD40 or some other anti rust spray all over the place too!

This is the same thing that my mech.also demonstrated to me!
Don't go by their stupid acts, just take it to an auto electrician mate...

@gixxer_junkie_m: What do you think?