The Fiero and Apache share some components including crank case,frame,and body....the gears,crankshaft(RTR160),CDI,head with valves,piston and all associated components are slightly different.
Fiero crankshaft and Apache 150 and RTR 180 are almost the same..The bore and piston of RTR180 can be fitted on the Fiero..Gixxer knows better.
The external pipe is for carrying oil to the upper cylinder for valves,bearings etc., to be lubricated.

I got a hang of wiring, but its 'SWISS' brand made.
I expected minda or maybe the OEM which is something else i believe.

Been waiting to get either one of the two, but its pulling things even further, what should i do, install SWISS wiring, or wait ???

btw, that swiss wiring cost me 400 something.

You can guess the quality better buddy and which bike's wiring harness are we talking about here? P135 i presume.Stator coil is that of the RTR ,or the YAM one?

The wiring belongs to the F2 itself.
Even Minda wasn't any better, the oem wiring isn't available anywhere, so I'll stick with this one for now.

Stator is stock F2 stator (heavily winded), i can't change it as I'll have to swap my CDI to TCI then, i might do it later, not now.

I've put the head back on the bike, with necessary gaskets and remaining stuff, still a lot of work is left to do.
Besides, one of my bolts which connect the head to the block broke midway while tightening, will have to remove it with spot welding or something, otherwise it will leak oil .

This work is taking tooooo long then expected.
I'll go to the mech on monday directly, meanwhile he'll remove that half stuck bolt.

planning to change the horn too.
Wish to go for Bosch Dual horns, (the standard plate type, not the trumpet type).
Mech has placed the order, will get that in 2-3 days.

Got a compression guage too, will check the compression and let you all know when the head is perfectly at place.

Any other suggestions are welcome.

@ sarvajit

The choke lever is a bolt on job which ANY mech can do very easily, so i think you're settled down with it.

Removing a broken stud bolt is a 2 minute job,it had happened to my bike's engine too.The mech's have a special tool to remove it ,it's like a 3metal wheels which are tightened around the broken bolt and then it's loosened out.The set of stud bolts cost 120 bucks.

Good thing that you went for ZMA main jet,my bike's on 115 main jet,but since you'll be on K&N you'll be needing it.

the broken bolt is tooo much inside my friend.
its almost 1 inch deep and broken at that point.

mech said he'll remove it somehow.

Guys

Looks like My front shock springs needs replacement, Last I have checked in ASC they had told me that Each spring costs 400rs , I thought I will lug around some more days & now after I have changed my front fork oil it has become too stiff & their is no action at all.

I need suggestions on better alternatives if anybody has tried as such ? or the OEM is good enough ?

let the suggestions pour in

Let it run for a while,it'll become softer.If you'd ask me,harder the better,harder front end is a good thing for handling. What was satish's opinion on changing it, when it was taken out?

I know harder will be better, but this is so hard that when I brake front if the fork goes in, it doesnt come out

Satish didn't tell me anything on this, actually the front shocks is not absorbing any bumps, it is just throwing the bike up & out on any kinda little bumps.

& personally I like softer suspension, cause I am not going to race track anyway & I will be more than happy if it can give me softer ride without any bumps

I'll call him up and inquire about it,come by my place if possible,let's see about it.

Ok,that needs some welding work.

Alrighty, will come over monday or tuesday

Did call him up and he says that the springs are fine.He also said the same thing,that is to run it for some time ,otherwise all it needs is some oil to be taken out and that will soften them up.

Have you checked if the front fork inner tube is true or slightly bent...because it happened to me after a crash and the front fork action became tight. The problem is if I push it down it will go freely, but while riding it was always stiff..After changing the tube it is back to what it was like originally.

thanks a ton mate, I think thier's too much of oil , let me run it another week & see if it get softened more.

I actually didn't checked it Psr, My mech said everything was fine & only oil was leaking.

I trust my mech, lets see how it goes after I run it for another week, might be the problem of too much oil also..