No need for 8 or 10 turns, 6 turns to left should be fine.The stock setting is 5 i think.

6 turns to the left from 0 ??
i have put it up to possible 10 to 12 turns to the left than my previous setup, which was say 2 turns from the right.
this puts it up to 14 turns possibly from the complete right i.e 0, tooo much ??
how come the engine didn't turn off ??

okay, just tell me how many turns from absolute 0 (complete right) considering i am running BS29 with 117.5 main jet ????

For RTR 180 bore kit with BS 29 the main jet should be 125.The AFR adjustment screw should be 3 turns anti clockwise from 0.Monitor the spark plug center electrode every 200 Kms and set AFR to get Chocolate brown color.

i did it, i did 4 turns from complete zero.
i do feel the difference i don't know weather it really has helped or its just in my head !!

the bike climbs the revs much much faster and smoother, knocking is STILL there, but as i said before, its very very less after the service, now if i wack the throttle suddenly from 2k rpm, it knocks, but if i climb till 3.5 to 4 and then wack the throttle, bike SHOOTS ahead without knocking a bit.
front wheel floats on doing this.

the most amazing thing i ever felt in my bike is that even at 110 bike doesn't vibrate at all, it feels sooo sooo soooo smooth and the engine feels rubber mounted.
this may have to be because of the new oil, or maybe this so called carb tuning.

however after the carb tuning it feels the bike's drinking more fuel, it feels like it feels when we hold the choke and try riding.
maybe all's just in my head.

I'll upload the spark plug's snap after 200 kms.

Good to hear that buddy,try richening a bit more till the knocking goes.Finally the carb is made use of rightly.So since you are able to richen it yourself now,there's no need to get it done with a co machine.

There's a lesson in it for you buddy,which is ,always describe what the bike feels like in detail,otherwise we won't know anything about it till it's too late.Till you said that you turned the screw to right ,i had no idea what was happening .

@ gixxer

i don't feel that there's any solution to the knocking, if you remember that i had ridden for 3-4 mins after turning it 14 turns to the richer side, the knocking was still there, though it occurs only and only at sudden wack of throttle, after the service the bike had become very very well.

besides i am more detailed mostly in many of my posts, I'll try to be a bit more elaborative.

thanks, and where's chief ??
lets not put me in between and forget his issue guys !!

As i said before,fiero can't be ridden like other bikes in the market which are tuned for low rev response/torque.The torque curve is higher on a stock fiero and close to the peak of the bhp curve.So we have to keep it in the power band always by being in right gears.

So for modified bikes with a bigger bore size than the stroke length,the power band is even higher up the rev range .So your bike and mine will have to be kept at higher revs than stock bikes.So don't bring the revs as low as 2k in higher gears and whack the throttle open.

Hey Gixxer,

One query here. You asked Chief to take a compression test of the engine & informed him a way to do it. Thats like on the 4th gear drop the speed to 40kmph & whack the throttle open. The bike should shoot like a bullet if everything is perfect, right.

On the other hand I tried doing this, but the bike did not shoot but gradually it picked up pace. The plug is also tan brown & I am using a NGK CR7e GP series. Mileage I get is around 45kmpl. I also tried doing that on a P220 but that also did not shoot. What could be the reason?

Arent you not choking the carb, by giving more than the required fuel when you whack the throttle open. For eg. When you are drinking water from a glass or a bottle & someone just comes up to you & gives the glass a push above(usually what we do to our friends) and the see the excess water coming out from their mouth & they coughing badly & after that he will kill you for doing that.

Kindly shed some light on this.


Vishal

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An Update.

I have managed to solve the ticking / clicking / grinding noise form my bike. I visited my old faithful mech yesterday, and told him to take a test ride slowly. He also noticed the sounds. He then opened the chain cover, loosened the hind wheel, loosened the chain, readjusted the wheel, lubricated and adjusted the chain. He readjusted and tightened the front sprocket saying it was way too loose…. and Bingo! I have a noise free chain once again.

He says the engine / exhaust sound is good. The carb should be doing fine… he was very busy so he says he will do the thorough cleaning in my next servicing visit. He also revved the bike and noted the sound and says that it is fine and not to worry. He says the cam chain is fine too (it is the stock one which was not replaced with the engine bore).

So then, I went for the uphill comp test and the bike passed in flying colors. I have taken a liking of this test lately. It does test and show the capability of the engine quite well. The approach to the climb is quite rough followed by two speed breakers … then a sharp twist while climbing steadily … then another bend … more climb and ending in a sharp bend. The road is narrow (a Maruti 800 will have to inch slowly forward). No wonder I have not encountered a single 4 wheelers yet.

I have tried doing the speed comp test as mentioned by Gixxer, and the lunge forward situation is just not there … It manages 40 to 55 kmph in about 3.5-4 seconds and that’s it, it won’t shoot forward. Gixxer bro, is there any way to improve upon this? It would be great to feel the speed and power in the 4th gear.

Gixxer bro... when you say compression ... should the bike give a kick-back like the Enfields? I'm sure with age the comp will be much less now... How can we revive the engine?

The compression ration of a Fiero is 9:4:1 ... What does that translate to in PSI? Should the ideal compression be 150 PSI or 125 PSI?

It should read above 150psi preferably 160 plus.Are you getting a compression test done? If you do then it will be a good move.

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Gixxer, We (Imjoshee & mel) have done the speed comp test by trying to speed full blast at 40 kmph in the 4th gear. The test results were , I guess not too impressive. You are saying it is a good move ... to get a comp test done with a compression gauge right? to get the exact figure. I guess the thumb on the spark plug vent is a temporary method. You are quite right about the test... I think our aging bikes do need a proper comp test done.
Now what say the test results don't look too promising... how to go about then? Is it possible to get the stock (brand new) engine compression back in our bikes?

Yeah i got what you mean. The answer ,as to why the engine doesn't gag on giving more than a mouthful , is because of the CV carburettor. The carb is controlled by vacuum so it gives as much as the engine is asking no matter what the throttle butterfly position is.

Were as in flat slide carbs the engine gets gagged up on sudden opening of the throttle as the fuel is directly controlled by the throttle.Hence it will choke up.

The response time of the bike depends on two things.One, the health of the engine.Two, the health of the clutch plates.

I don't know about p220.But try it out with a discover135 or other bajaj bikes and you will find that the bike doesn't respond at all to the above test.My friend's year old discover135 feels same as a feiro,which has lost compression or clutch plates are shot.That is because of the bajaj tuning their discover for maximum initial pick up,if you open the throttle to the full suddenly it doesn't respond at all !! it keeps on going at the same speed ,which is called as "Lag/flat spot".

With a stock fiero,the revs are important in relation to gears.Were as on discover there is lot of initial torque and you need not change gears at all ,you can ride it like a auto gear scooter without down shifting when speed and revs drop.It jumps around on release of the clutch.But give it full throttle and it becomes a dead duck!.

There's no such thing as a aging bike.Your 100,000 km old bike will be same as a brand new, virgin RTR.Provided it's restored properly.What is there in a bike which makes it old? If you replace the bore-kit and head,what remains is the chassis and the gear box.They don't wear as quickly as a engine.So your 20k Rs worth fiero will be same as a brand new 80k RS bike.