either your riding is really rash that your chain ends up getting loose. what your mechanic did was tightening your chain by loosening the nuts on either side of the rear wheel. or another thing could be that your chain and sprocket set could have ended its life and due for a new set.

Guys. which rear tyre wud u recommend as the best for our fiero. i'm currently running on MRF Zapper C. really really long life. front i've recently changed to Ceat F85.

a very very and very common problem with F2.
i am sure you must have changed to a better Tyre.

what i did was removed my chain cover as i was tired listening to that noise every now and then.
ullal is right that guy tightened your chain.

your sprocket also needs checking, check weather the teeth of your sprocket (rear one) are damaged.
rub your fingers on it and rub your fingers on some other bike's sprocket too, you'll know the difference.

i tighten my chain EVERY WEEK.
it almost hangs down after a week.
i had to remove the chain cover to fit a 100 90 tyre.

for you i would say, don't worry and keep tightening the chain, if your sprocket is okay.
if your sprocket is damaged, go for replacing the entire set and then keep tightening the chain


@ ullal
MRF Zappers are the Worst tyres for fiero, trust me.
the weight distribution of our bike under acceleration and braking is very different to the pulsar one's or any other bike's, thanks to the chassis.
my experience with zappers was Slipping Sliding and terrible in gravel.

imjoshee is the man who can tell you which tyre to go for.
he has covered over a lac of kms on his odo, he has burnt more rubber than anyone else on a fiero (atleast here)
he'll know best.

just for your info, i use Dunlop monster 90 100 at rear
and mrf scales at front.
bike corners amazingly, i can ever scrape my footpegs sometimes.
but i lose the front under heavy braking a lot of times.

@ imjoshee

Dude!!!
problem sorted!!

how's the charging now??

i dont ride rash, but yes sometimes... as nanotech mentioned, the chain becomes loose, in my case everytime the chain becomes tight!!!!!!!!!!!!

@NANOtech

Yes the problem has been sorted out. The battery is charging but still not upto the mark . Yesterday night after I had a word with you, went for a short ride, but I feel the charging is still less. When I kept it idle for 10-15 minutes without any load,the battery charged well. But when I actually started riding it & put on the lights, it was till very dim. Dunno what is the problem Can we meet next week and you check what's wrong?

Regarding the tyres. I am currently using a Michelin M45 3.25 X 18 at the rear & MRF Zapper FS 2.75 X 18 at the front. From years I have been using Zapper FS at the front and never faced issues with that. The rear has seen many changes like MRF Moto D, Zapper C & MRF Nylogrip Plus. But none gave me the grip & confidence on wet surfaces other than Michelins. Michelins are soft compound tyres, so they offer good grip but have a short life as compared to hard compound tires of MRF. I would reccommend Michelins to everyone if budget is not an issue.

Regarding chain issues. I have never felt the need to tighten the chain every week or evey month. I just feed the chain with grease every 15 days for a smooth ride & am running with the chain cover from day 1. Daily running amounts to 60-70kms and sometimes out on weekends. I have changed the chain & sprocket complete set only once. Maybe I will have to change it in another 5k kms on the odo.

Vishal

Guys!
Those who have been facing road grip issues,there's a very simple and cheap solution.Change the handle to that of the Fury or the Yamaha FZ16 or as in my case that of the std bullet(mine's put up side down).Lowering the handle is an amazing thing ! The difference in handling and road grip can be felt right away!
Another benefit will be that you will be doing your lower backs a favour! despite the misconception that lower handles cause back ache ,they are the most comfortable! all the classic street bikes had lower handles ,all over the world.Take the example of Jawa,bullets etc.
The weight will be borne by the shoulders and arms to an extent and this makes you keep your backs straight and lessens the burden on your lower back.Trust me i know these things because i know a bit about right postures , since i've been pumping iron for over a decade now.
Anand

The problem of losing the front end is common among all the fiero models.The company increased the wheel base of the F2 for this very same reason.
The thing is fiero has a wonderful chassis,its double cradle set up is safe and sturdy and when combined with a lower handle and stiffer rear suspension ,the bike turns into a race bike and the advantage of its short wheel base in cornering can be exploited to the full.
The disc barke set up needs a lower handle as otherwise there will be a tendency to loose the front end .But by lowering the handle it increases the potency of the disc brake as it puts more weight on the front wheel and makes the fiero feel like its on rails while cornering!
Anand

guys what do you mean by "Autochain tensioner"?? is it related to the drive chain or the camshaft chains in the engine?

@NANOtech : As per or talks yesterday evening & your advise I removed all the load like horns & brake lights today morning & rode to office. Distance covered 25kms & 45 mins of ride. Once I reached office, just to check I put ON the lights & it was bright & chaka chak just like it was earlier . But the horns are not ready to work something wrong, I need to check.

Also you mentioned some value of the fuse to be used between the 2 terminals of the battery, I dont remember it, can you plaz tell me that?


Vishal

I have acquired a new chain sprocket set and clutch plates. I will wait for the initial break-in to be over before I make the changes.



Can anyone tell me the factory default setting of the carb?
The engine feels much smoother now and the exhaust note is good.

Where is the image? I cant see it.

@chief ashman: Congrats on the new engine! Could you please give us the price details of all the parts (including what you recently purchased) if you don't mind? If you do not like to disclose here, please PM me, as I'm mostly heading for some engine work.
I have understood the front shocker mechanism well after opening up many times recently. Go to a dedicated shocker repair mechanic, first ask him to check the cone set, as well as tighten&loosen the stem nut. This might solve the problem in case it was loose. Inspect well by sitting on the bike, compressing the front forks with the front brake held.
In case there is no problem with the cone set, and the stem nut setting is also perfect, then ask him to open up the shocker assembly. You will find 3 parts inside it:
1. Oil seals
2. Springs
3. Fork inner stem tubes
For 1, inspect if there is any leakage&replace if required.
For 2, check length&rigidity of both springs. Replace if required.
For 3, check for scoring marks. If there are many deep marks, the inner tubes are bent and would require throughing. Don't forget to replace the fork oil with proper measurement also.
Please check&update!

@NANOtechnology: You are right about the rear tyre upsize&chain cover rubbing. Though I have heard of many removing the chain guard, in my case I was able to find a workaround&my chain guard remained on, inspite of upsizing to Dunlop GeoCruiser 100/90/18", from the stock 90/90/18".

@tintin708: Are you sure it is the chain making noise or the tyre rubbing against the chain cover like NANO mentioned? If you have upsized your rear tyre then the latter is more likely. Check whether the upper&lower chain covers are properly fitting each other&also examine the clearance from the tyre. Mine used to come apart&the tyre started rubbing on the chain cover after every big pothole/speedbreaker!
Here is what I did:I asked the mech to hammer the chaincover from the inside a bit, so that the fitting is exact (lower goes into upper)&after that, put some washers on the nuts, so that they would remain secure.
Please check&update!

hey vishal.
i know we can talk easily over the phone (or skype) but i really wanted to put it here for everyone to know.
first of all. let's talk about the fuse.

i see you have 4 fuses on your bike.
1- The main fuse with a white fuse box (you have 35 amp one)
2,3,4- you have a dedicated 3 piece fuse-box, with clip on fuses ranging from 5-10-15 amps Right????

keep the 3 fuses same (clip ones) and switch to 10 amp fuse inside the white fuse box.


lets talk from scratch.
You are on full DC.
let's check the load of your bike first.

headlamp - 35w
brake light - 10/20w
hella aux - 35w
horn - maybe 30w
indicators - 20w
console/neutral/high beam indicators/ other indicators - 10-15w

total current that your bike pulls on entire load is - 160w

now all these 160W are pulled directly from the battery.

12volts + 160w = 13.3 amps (roughly)

current of your current batt = 5 amps

lets only consider real case scenario's
only headlamps (35w) and taillamps (20w) + 10w console = 65-70w

70w + 12volts = 5.8 amps (roughly)

again in this case your battery is still 5 amps.

don't be disheartened.
one can use a 2.5 amp battery in full dc and run 150w ...
but to do that i need you to know something.
when you start your bike the coil pumps in amps to the battery.
the load is 13 amps, while the battery gives 5 amps (if fully charged) remaining amps are provided by the coil itself.

if you are using 5 amps and pulling 5.8 amps simultaneously you are not charging the battery, you are discharging it..
you need to use your lights only and only when the engine is on.. not otherwise, if you have a 5 amp batt.

if you switch to 9 amp battery.
even after using the normal setup of 5 amps, battery still has 4 more amps left to get discharged.
besides according to my calculation, if i ride with headlights and everything ON and i am above 5.5k rpm (80 kmph) i am CHARGING the battery even with all that load.

the battery is charging because it uses 9 amps in my case and gets 10-11 amps.

2 amps are again only charging the battery.
you won't have any issues except traffic.
YOU will never ever face any issues while touring as you will be above 70 and no matter how much you pull, but you'll still be charging your battery.

got my point??

if possible switch to a 9 amp battery (considering you ride in heavy traffic)
wait for a month with this setup, same battery.
if everything is okay, keep 5 amp, if not keep 9 amps, simple.

i will show you everything practically with a multimeter next time we meet.


hope i didn't confuse you.



dude, don't worry.
wait for 500-800 kms to get over.

you feel the lack of power?
once your run in is complete your tappets will be adjusted (which will be loose now) and small tweaks will be done
you'll get more than enough power you need.

clutch plates swap will also help.
i repeat.

don't judge before finishing the run in period....
i know its painful to ride slow and it arises a lot of doubt that all the money and efforts put in to re do the engine has gone waste, but trust me all your questions will be answered after run in.


a little correction here.

ofcource my tyre was rubbing the chain cover, but that sound i was talking about was the CHAIN rubbing the chain cover from the inside itself.

that chain rubbing noise was an indication to me for tightening the chain.

after bigger tyre, even my mech hammered the cover a bit to give a 1 mm gap between the 2, but after chain and tyre noise all together i got rid of it once and for all.

now chain needs a lot of maintenance but still i am happy as the noise is stopped completely.
and i like to adjust the rear wheel back and front to adjust to oversteer and understeer almost every week.
hence i keep tightening the chain every week.

[QUOTE=Sarvajit;478256]@chief ashman: Congrats on the new engine! Could you please give us the price details of all the parts (including what you recently purchased) if you don't mind? If you do not like to disclose here, please PM me, as I'm mostly heading for some engine work.
I have understood the front shocker mechanism well after opening up many times recently. Go to a dedicated shocker repair mechanic, first ask him to check the cone set, as well as tighten&loosen the stem nut. This might solve the problem in case it was loose. Inspect well by sitting on the bike, compressing the front forks with the front brake held.
In case there is no problem with the cone set, and the stem nut setting is also perfect, then ask him to open up the shocker assembly. You will find 3 parts inside it:
1. Oil seals
2. Springs
3. Fork inner stem tubes
For 1, inspect if there is any leakage&replace if required.
For 2, check length&rigidity of both springs. Replace if required.
For 3, check for scoring marks. If there are many deep marks, the inner tubes are bent and would require throughing. Don't forget to replace the fork oil with proper measurement also.
Please check&update!

-------------------------------------------------------------------

Sarvajit, thanks for the tips... I will try and locate a good Shocker mechanic and see what has been causing the problem. Your tips will be very helpful.

As for the cost, I think it was around INR 7500/- in total except the mech's labour, boring etc. The price includes many things like a fresh carb, piston set, clutch plates and chain sprocket set, gaskets and other stuff ... some of which were purchased last year and some very recently.

@NANOtechnology ... thanks bro ... I'm a little assured ... as people keep telling me to sell off the old bike and get a new one and that I've been wasting unnecessary money on the bike.
I'm sure little doubts will get cleared away like the clear blue October skies. And I firmly believe that my Fiero will very soon feel powerful and brand new.