Pictures I tried to post but couldnt

Chief : Good to know that you got the engine work done.Obviously you will have to do a run in of about 1500-2000kms. And do not forget to change your oil at 500kms now. The rubber part that you are referring is very important, because if it is not in place, there will oil leakage, so make sure you change it to a new one.

I think the headlight thing, you will have to get it done from other trusted mechanic.

And yes never ever strip your bike unless & until you have all the spares in your hand.

Was planning an upgrade to Pulsar disc kit, but the rains would not stop and finally when it did, it was quite late in the evening

Earlier last week I had mentioned about the horn going weak if the bike was kept idle.This sunday sat down to check the issue and after tuning and cleaning the horns, came to conclusion that they have finished doing their duty and life is gone. Just removed those and put in spare one that I has and its working fine. No signs of battery draining or anything.

Vishal

The thing is ,it's not a soft copy .At that time overdrive magazine didn't have a website and i did search for the old tests in their website but they don't have archives.At least not that old ones any way.

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Yes Vishal I did learn it the hard way... will make sure I have everything before ever stripping down my bike again... well nothing has been spoilt yet... just lost a day and half trying to hunt it down. I will be getting all the necessary spares in about a week including the chain sprockets which the mech says is not in the best of conditions now and the bike could do with a change. (Fiero is a strong bike ... an understatement ) considering the mech had to struggle to open up the virgin engine... and while I was there ... loads of bikes mostly pulsars and even many hondas showing up for spares ... spares that I never ever dreamed would need replacement in such newer bikes. I guess I could do with a clutch plate change as well to really fire up my Fiero. But I'm sure those things can wait till my first servicing at 500 kms.

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Even I have changed the horns several times ... I think I am running the third horn on my Fiero. It just becomes feeble and croacky and needs replacement.

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I guess I will need to search for a more experimental mechanic with a more modern mindset and do the headlight and other modifications.

chief ashman..

Where did you get it done and can you give a break down of the parts replaced with their cost?
If nothing in the engine head was replaced then a 500 km running-in should be sufficient.

@chief ashman: Thanks for the pics. I also need to replace the gaskets and oil seal mostly.
When the head is opened, I will know the status of the internals&replace accordingly.
I guess this will be scheduled for the next service, hopefully next month.
Atleast I know what the parts look like now!

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gixxer junkie m,
the figure roughly translates to INR 4000. In Kathmandu Nepal where I live, the figure goes higher than 6500 Nepalese Rupees. Well it inclues the piston and rings, gaskets, engine boring, labor charge + other small changes ... some not concerning with the engine. Remember that this is Nepal so shipping, govt taxes etc make the price more than twice the price paid in India.

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Sarvajit, my pleasure ... you know we are here to share and help each other ... I tell you Man! I've learned so much from you guys here at Xbhp and it's forums and strings.

wow chief,
congrats for a brand new fiero...
well well well..

i need to ask you, that since you said you bought the piston and went for engine boring, did you inquire the size of bore??
a stock piston is too loose for a bored cylinder..
cross check weather it gel's well with the cylinder..

generally a new piston is available in +1 and +2 sizes...
it depends upon the bore as which one fits...
even if its normal sized (stock), i think piston rings will do their work to keep it gelled then, but then they'll have to handle a lot of pressure and might need a replacement soon..
so you'll end up changing piston rings every 10k kms...

besides as far as i know i don't think the engine should turn HOT if its new...
make sure you clear all these doubts before its too late .....

and the pic you've posted, are those before boring ???

you need to let these guys know who's the boss...
YOU are willing to spend the money for YOUR machine
if you do know what is right and what is wrong, who are they to tell to stick with stock settings??

and unusual noise??
how the power..

regarding run in, its nothing that you can't ride with a pillon or something, just stay below 45 for next 500 kms and below 60 from 500 to 1000 kms...
ride same as you used to ride before, but avoid revving i'e high speeds, a pillion doesn't matter.

change your clutch plates after 1000 (that's what i did)
and your bike will turn into a rocket...

trust me, it will be difficult keeping the front wheel on the ground in the first gear initially....

do get it cross checked with the mech...

congrats again....

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Thanks NANOtech,
You guys gave me the confidence to go ahead and do the boring.


The mech said a newly bored cylinder and the new piston set will create heat. The engine did feel hot initially but that is getting controlled now.

guyz i have a question...

My F2 73500kms and 7yrs old is having some issues with the idling rpm. i always use the choke for 8-10secs(all wheathers) and then let it idle for another 10-15secs. after a short ride of say 1km, the idling is perfect (1100rpm). now, when i ride the bike for 30kms nonstop and then check, the idling is 1250-1300rpm. and suppose for the same distance i ride at speeds of more than 75kms for most of the time, i find the rpm to touch the 2000 mark and then settles down after a short while to 1400-1500rpm.

i wanted to know why does it reach 2000rpm and then after 5-8sec come down to almost 1400-1500rpm. i know that when the engine is hot, the idling does increase upto 1400rpm which acc to me is normal!

PS : my 30km ride to college is 40% city riding and 60% highway..

hmm it seems you have +1 piston...
well mt engine never heats up even after boring, it used to before all that stuff..
since your mech says it will get better, it should..
feels smoother eeh??
wait for run in to get over and you'll see the difference...

i strongly suggest, keep low profile until 1000 kms...

regarding clutch plates i guess you don't have that Japanese 1700 bucks option left anymore..
the plates now available cost 190 bucks..
they are original...
bought from authorized shop and works like a charm...
can wheelie finally

stick to oem f2 sprockets and chain set..
fiero/f2/fx/apache/rtr all have same sprocket front and rear as well as chain...

regarding escorts i dunno what's the proper name though, i'll see what's written in mine and let you know..

some pics of old and new part comparison would have been helpful..
yup, bored cylinder shines like mirror..
had criss-cross lines on it right??


yup..
even my fiero f2 had same issue before engine work..
its strange and interesting as even i have no idea as what makes it happen...

however it doesn't happen anymore after engine overhaul..
would be great if i know the reason behind this too..

by the way, aren't you the guy who started this ownership thread??

I suppose Chief has Classic Fiero and not F2.

You are wrong here my friend, all the bikes mentioned above have different sprockets both at the front & rear. Its because of the length & the swingarm difference. I know this because I bought two different chains 1 for my Fiero & other for my dad's FX & both had different part numbers as well.

Chief : What everyone suggests here is right. Keep a low profile till 1000-1500kms and then slowly & steadily start increasing the speed.There is no such thing that you cant take a pillion or something like that(its all crap!!). Original Japanese clutch plates are not more available . Only available is Indian make made by TVS. Also when you are changing the clutch plates, do change the pressure plates(costs Rs.180/- here) also. Also pour in fresh oil after plates are changed.Best time to change the plates is when you have a oil change due.

All the best!!


Vishal

@ Vishal & NANOtech

You are right Vishal, I have a Classic 2001 Fiero … 08 July, 2001 – that’s the date I got my darling. F2 was released much later. A great piece of info my friend … regarding the pressure plates. I had no idea that pps need to be changed too. Would love to see a picture of the pressure plate. Also made by TVS ???
Now regarding the clutch plates, I’d gone to the only shop in Kathmandu that specializes in supplying Suzuki / TVS bikes the spares some two years (could be three) or so back. He showed me three makes of clutch plates from the very cheap to the one I have. He mentioned that the authorized TVS Show Room people often came for the same (Escorts brand) when they ran out of stock. So I guess that’s the best there is at the moment. I’m waiting for the 500 km servicing for the changes. That’s when I’m going to change the clutch plates and pressure plates as well as the chain sprockets + the Engine Head oil filter (TVS 4). I think the bike is going to be awesome after that… regarding that it was fine and not too bad before the stripping down and engine bore.
The freshly bored cylinder does shine … well I did not pay attention to the criss-cross lines. But the piston as shown by the mech was a perfect fit so I kept quiet. Is it necessary to follow the break-in procedures after the clutch and pressure plate change? Sounding really dumb am I? well sorry guys!!, you got to get used to these novice questions.

Guys’ thanks again for helping me make the right decision regarding the engine boring… your feedback is highly appreciated.

Hey chief,
Regarding the clutch plates ,do u have the old ones with you? if you do then you can compare them .The original ones were made of aluminum alloy and the current cheaper ones available for fiero is made from paper base.
Are your clutch plates shot? if they are, then it would have been a better idea to have gotten them changed when the engine was assembled.As shot/worn clutch results in excess load on the new bore.
My suggestion is to get it changed at the 5oo km oil change at least.That is if the plates are worn out.
Regarding the running-in dont bother being patient till 1500 kms .If nothing in the engine head was changed ,then 500 kms is sufficient to run in the bore.