yes you will have to follow a break in period upto 500kms according to my mech, but i suggest follow break in until 1000kms, i'm still in my break in
but bike has become butter smooth, easily touched 45 at 3.5 rpm....
my jaw was wide open reading the tacko and speedo...

do not go for alternate parts, i do agree that parts are difficult to find, but classic fiero, f2,fx even apache 150 (old one) has same engine components.
parts are easily available for the engine atleast, by the way its difficult to find body parts, i would recommend you to source parts from your nearest svc ofcource, don't go for parts meant for other bikes, engine components have to be perfect fit and finish.

make sure you replace each and every gasket when the engine is dismantled oil is a big problem atleast for my fiero.
ride your bike as less as you can to save further damage..

and yes, even if some parts look okay, like tappets, rocker or timing chain or even camshaft, do inspect it properly as once you open it up, get everything done at that moment.
better than opening it up again and replacing those which were a bit okay earlier...

when your work is done, you'll be surprised with the torque at low rpm's can't say about higher one's as im still in run in period.

good luck.

Appreciate the help

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Thanks NanoTech for your info-support. I just want to be sure they have all the necessary gaskets and parts etc before opening. The mech said he has to take the cylinder to a lathe machine for smoothening out the rough inside. So it's gonna take a good two days to finish the job.

yes he'll have to bore the engine cylinder, its an easy job, requires lathe machine & 200 rs
let him take his time, by the way i strongly suggest that if you have a tvs svc nearby, all gaskets and parts will be available.
its good that you atleast have a mech who's trustworthy.
None of all my mechanics are trustworthy

keep us informed about your work.

by the way where are you from??

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Nanotech - Hey I guess I am not too familiar with the engine terminology. Yes! Engine Boring (Bore)... that's the word.
I am from Kathmandu - Nepal... so you can see my concern for spare parts... Coz we don't have too many TVS or Suzuki bikes and service centers here. But I have some spares stored with me... My last visit to India, about two years back... I had purchased an original piston, valves, carburetor and some other stuff... I guess finding the gaskets won't be too much of a headache. I wanted to give the bike for the opening-up of it's guts!!! today... but had to postpone till maybe Sunday or Monday due to a certain circumstance.
Do I need to have the upper engine opened up as well? what do I have to change in there.
Thanks for your interest and support.

well yes, upper part has to be opened too, as that would only be the place from where you can remove the cylinder which you have to bore. totally it has 3 parts, upper, middle and lower, all have to be removed.
its good to know your passion about bike, nepal would be a lovely place to live in...
normally after bore, an oversized piston is put up, like piston+1 size, so i doubt that you have bought the same piston, ask your mechanic.
take your time, and hats off to you to have been trying to work soo hard regarding your bike, people here in mumbai have service centers soo close to thier house still they cry for parts.

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Thanks NANOtech, I gave the mech a visit on Friday and told him to test the condition of the engine... He says the engine is surprisingly still good and responsive. He said there was some black smoke when the engine is reved hard... but very little... He said the black smoke is due to fuel problem and need not worry me too much. He said it was the blue smoke that should be worrisome. He then did a little adjustment in the carburetor and said I could ride the bike for some more time... So I guess I am back to riding my bike with a little more confidence for some more time... at least till my next servicing which is due in the first week of July.
Well then I will surely tell him to open her up and get the necessary things done and start feeling peace of mind. In the mean time I guess I will try to source out most of the necessary stuff to give my trusty Fiero a new life.

Cheers!

One more question

My engine heats up a bit lately... I smell some sort of fuel burning up and it bothers me. I want your word on the engine oil... which one should I use... What is the best for my bike ... Any suggestions on any brand that makes the engine run cooler and smoother? Help appreciated.

dude, if there's any sort of smoke coming out of your silencer no matter what colour 'There is a problem'.
there are many reasons for the smoke..
maybe your engine is leaking fuel.
maybe your piston doesn't totally gel up with the cylinder.
maybe there is too much of carbon in your cylinder and so on, these are typical reasons of smoke.
I've never heard of Blue smoke
it can be white or black.
black is excess of carbon, while white is engine air/fuel mixture burning problem.
Remember if your bike smokes once and eventually stops smoking then its your oil thats empty and hence it doesn't smoke coz the bike is dry.
Never let your bike dry, no matter how bad the condition is.

i've used many oils
castrol was better initially
tried tvs factory oil also, no good
salvasol also bad
didn't like motul too (i kno many would kill me for saying this) but i don't think its good for fiero.
go for elf
elf moto 4 gold or pro whatever is available, its 20w40 and so far the best one..
don't forget to change your oil filter too, if not everytime then atleast once in 3 oil swaps.
Also
if your oil has the same good healthy colour for 500-800 kms, then its NOT GOOD.
oil should turn dark, otherwise it won't serve the purpose.

considering your bike smokes, Does it even sound like some unusual sound or suddenly the vibes have increased???
a smoking 4 stroke bike is not good buddy, i recommend you try a second opinion from some other mechanic atleast to get your thing clear.

i think he increased the flow of your fuel, that won't serve the purpose buddy, the bike also heats up if the air filter is clogged, try cleaning that too!
in my opinion,
july is not far, get service done and swap oil, clean filter, change oil filter, also try opening the silencer and dust out the excess of carbon (in f2, 4 screws can remove the end can) can't say about you bike.
see if it still smokes or heats up quickly, if not then you can wait.

meanwhile if the engine sounds, like a bit rough or some metal brushing sound, then get engine work done as fast as you can.

My Fiero F2 has been troublesome over the weekend. First the oil seal blows, then the next day it decides to get punctured on city outskirts, then once I'm back in the city, I find that the same oil seal is blown again!
On inspection, we find scratch marks on the inner tube. I replaced the oil seal for the 2nd time, praying that it doesn't blow again, but the fork repair guy is sure that it won't hold up for too long.
Anyone knows how much the following Fiero F2 parts cost?
1. Fork inner stems set of 2
2. Springs
3. Cone set

@NANOtechnology: I saw a few engine oil stains over my engine fins&clutch cover too. My bike has done 52K kms.&still feels very smooth. I did the mistake of using fully synthetic oil last time, so feel that its detergent action could be the culprit for the engine oil coming out. Tell me what you feel about it. My mech wants to avoid opening the head, coz there is no smoke/loss of smoothness or mileage. Engine oil level drops by about 100 ml.per 1000kms.

your pics make it very clear that your gaskets needs to be replaced.

100ml per 1000kms, thats low
my bike used to pour out 400 ml every 20-25 days
there's a bullet maybe 30 yr old beside my bike, and my bike used to compete with it regarding oil drain.
even my watchman said, get your oil thing done mate, its an embarrassment to the society

coming back, its all gone now, you need new gaskets everywhere, since its clocked over 50k i assume its been ridden for 4-5 yrs, get your gaskets replaced as when the bike ages gaskets eventually lose their cause, it won't stop otherwise, and make sure you go for OEM gaskets only, i wasted my lot of money on those duplicate cardboard thingy pretending to be gaskets..
when you buy those, it will be green in color and look like cardboard and IF FOLDED IT SHOULD BREAK.
of course don't break it but get to know whether those are real.

I'VE seen these svc people also selling CHEAP Duplicate gaskets.
make sure you determine the real one.
same people source oem ones too
welcome to india my friend..

synthetic oil
i did the same mistake my friend, spent a lot of money on power 1 racing cans and ended up with more damage,
go for ONLY mineral oil.
imjoshee recommended elf moto 4 pro / gold.
so far the best one i've ever used.
thanks imjoshee....

to swap from synthetic to mineral, you have to get ENGINE FLUSHING done.
change oil at just 1000 kms initially so that the detergent gets washed up early with new mineral oil again.

i also suggest 1 thing.
as you say your engine is okay and smooth no engine work is needed but still putting up new gaskets will require opening up the engine, if not done with a proper professional, it will do no good but worse, so go for better people, not just grease monkeys... with no knowledge.

hope this helps....

I guess I will mention a few more details now.
The bike has been ridden for 6 years (March 2004 model).
Synthetic oil used only once.
I have been seeing this minor oil leakage since a couple of years, it became more due to the synthetic oil, I have quickly shifted back to mineral, the trusty TVS Tru4.
OEM spares&good service not a problem-I have a very good rapport with the authorized SVC&have a special mech.who is worth his salt too.
Now, this is not my primary bike anymore, ever since I got my R15 2 years back-I use this around my place in the evening to take my Mom around&it clocks at the max 4-500kms.a month.
Which is why the mech says don't spend too much on it (he doesn't mind doing it if I insist though)
He already saw me spending 5-6000 bucks last year on new disc assembly, battery, paint etc.
I am expecting the fork stem replacement soon (will be happy if it doesn't happen though)
Now what do you suggest-I still ask him to open up the head&put a new gasket/oil seal&check the condition of the piston rings&valves, or postpone it till the time the oil starts leaking like a tap?

see
it basically depends on what you expect from your bike
if you wait until the oil starts leaking like a tap, it will cause engine damage a lot more,
since you have a new r15, i think you can wait...
if you plan to keep the fiero for more years then do it early as possible.
regarding the fork stem, i don't have much info about the cost and stuff...
even i suggest don't do it as its still your second bike right !
even my fork needs some replacement but even i didn't do it
just hope waiting does not make your bike get damaged more and more regarding the gaskets...

As I told you, this is more or less a gully bike for me-I don't even take it to office-I use the R15 for touring as well as commuting.
But I do expect it to be in good condition&yes it has been kept&will be kept since my Mom feels comfortable moving around on it for errands shopping.
I think I will try with mineral oil once more, check whether the drained out quantity is too low, then we can take a call on this. If the gaskets plan to give up completely, then I will open up the head. I guess the next 2K kms.will be a wait&watch time for the bike&me.
As for the fork stem, the oil seal has been holding up since the last 100-150kms.&I will give it some more time&then review. If it gives up, then I will change the entire front suspension unit i.e., fork stems+oil seals+oil+springs+coneset. But I hope that doesn't happen too soon.
Basically this bike has a place in my Mom's heart(&my heart too), so it will be there with us. I don't mind spending on it after 6 years, if it can run for a couple more years with no hassles.
Like, I got the battery replaced once, then got the disc assembly replaced another time, before this the bike was repainted, so old bikes do need refurbishing, but spending all of it at once makes us feel the pinch!
My target out of this bike is around 75K kms., on the stock internals. At the rate of even 5K kms.a year, it amounts to another 5 years of usage. Donno if that can be achieved, only time will tell!

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Thanks NANOtech for showing us poor souls the path ... you seem to be well versed in biking and bike technology.
The smoke has disappeared ... and bike feels better now. The mech and people say it is the adulturated fuel that is causing the problem. I guess I will wait till servicing. I will also try cleaning the air filter as you suggested. Smoke is Black or White (with a tint of blue).

I have heard good things about Yamalube 20w-40, Gulf Pride 4T Plus and Elf Moto Pro 4 Gold.... would like to try these (whichever is available) in my coming serving.

I just want to keep my bike in proper running condition and not face major situations. I guess a nine year old bike builds up a lot of carbon and will need to be cleaned or decarbonized. Will need to change the oil filter as well.

Quoted from Suzuki GS150R site

The symptoms of GLAZING are

1)Lack of power
2)low mileage
3)oil enters the combustion chamber and burns with the fuel at high RPM and the exhaust becomes smoky
4)Oil level decreases quiet fast because of this burning.

Glazing happens when the cylinder walls and piston ring smoothes out to a glazed finish. The piston is actually supposed to slide on a thin film of oil so that metal to metal contact is minimum. In glazed engined, the cylinder wall is so smooth, that it does not hold any oil and the oil seeps through to the combustion chamber and there is plenty of metal to metal contact between the piston rings and cylinder walls further worsening the problem.

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@ NANOtech
is my bike the victim of the above quoted scenario?