[QUOTE=imjoshee;456155]Yes the thread is running like our Fiero's . The Classic Fiero had a different headlight & the hence the bulb & bulb holder are different. From F2 onwards they shifted to H4 because of better output.

Chief you can go for FX headlight setup.Its easy & quick.I did that setup all by myself.


I got the 2 lamps as a pair.Made the clamp all by myself & made it in such a way that I can install two & if need be remove one & switch places.Also it does work great.Use it only when cruising above 60 & some guys try to act smart & not use dipper.The catch here is I have installed a 35w H3 bulb which work great with the 35w headlight.

Yes Chief it does look lethal but some find in funny. Though currently I am using only one aux lamp.Have removed the right side one.Use the lamp only on highways & at speeds above 60.Also you can use a small lamp at the leg guard, But I feel the handle is much better place to install at as it will turn with the handle & give you enough light,while at the leg guard it will be pointing to one direction only,even if you take a turn.(Hope you got this,because my explanation is little confusing)

The main headlight bulb is a H4 35/35w Philips,Made in Germany.

Yes will surely put a pic of the clamp.Its raining here from past couple of days & hence I am unable to open the panels & take the pic. Will post it soon.Kindly bear with me.

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No problem with time and the clamp thing bro...

Give me more details about the FX Headlamp setup. Looks like one from the Bajaj Caliber type. What have you done to the speedometer and the wires. I find opening the Fiero Headlamp very cumbersome. Your Head lamp looks massive. My Fiero reflector is not all that good these days... I tried to have it opened and cleaned but it's not much use. What would the cost factor for FX be? Sounds like a good option. Also is the Amaron 5Amp battery big ... I mean as big as the 9Amp one?

I am full of questions .... some may sound stupid ... please be kind guys.

well the fuse huh??
who could have thought about it !!!

the headlamp unit gives me a mickey mouse feel...

here are the answers of your questions...

1)
it took almost an hour of time for re-winding as that guy was quite busy watching soccer and fighting with a customer simultaneously and of course re-winding my coil...

normally he charges 300 bucks but as the wire was mine and some good chat in that hour made me convince him with just 150 bucks.....

2)
well its not much time since I've been running on the new coil, i had got my engine work done recently, which included new piston and stuff so i was in a run in period...
hence never touched 4k + ever all this time,
but don't worry

even if this new coil generates MORE current, it won't be a problem coz this APE rr is a king in this sector..
it can handle a lot more than our bikes can supply at 12k revs no matter how much coil you rewind...

as i had issues with headlight connections (wiring) after full dc conversion, hence i was on stock rr with this re-winded coil for 2 days and again i had no -ve issues, my battery was getting wonderfully charged, and all the time i was on that 2.5 amp battery (on ac) i never had any problems...


3)
well don't be into a misconception that EVERY piaggio's svc have the trusty ape rr....
i had to go to 4 different piaggio's svc to get it....
thane
chembur
vashi
finally got it in bhivandi

so make sure you call them up beforehand and know, these guys take months if you order one which they don't have (a svc guy told me this)
good luck..

even i am desperately waiting for installation of this HID
i have everything ready
but its a lot more of an effort to fit everything in one place....
i will do it as soon as i can and will meet you FIRST..


@ chief ashman

dude i have an HS1 bulb, i saw it today.
its not phillips in f2, its HALONIX
hs1, h4, h6m are almost same...
I'm not good in photography, the thing is that i have a really AMAZING cam...
its shock proof, water proof, this proof, that proof and so on..
I've taped my cam to my crash guard many times to shoot on-board traffic sweeping and high speed runs...

i even dropped it once at the speed of 100 on the highway
thanks to that huge pothole
still it has no marks and no scratches....
not to mention it runs extremely well after all those beatings too

amaron battery has 2.5 amps, 6 amps and 9 amps
size differs such 2.5 < 6 < 9
6 is ok
9 is really huge and heavy (3.5 kg) also expensive...

and yes
please end your quotes
[/quote] is an indication of end quote...
make sure you don't erase it when you type a reply with quote..

is an indication of end quote...
make sure you don't erase it when you type a reply with quote..[/QUOTE]

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Amaron 6 Amp : what is the cost? I will try to source it out from the market. Can I change the headlight socket / housing on my Fiero and keep the same headlight setup? housing (socket) for H4 bulbs. That way I can keep the old Fiero front with better lighting... please suggest.

About Qoutes : I will try to follow what you said

What would the cost of a Piston Block be? any idea? Vishal might have an idea as he as been through the process.

Thanks for the info NanoTech. Will keep in touch. I have your number.


Chief : You cannot use the same headlamp,should you wish to change the bulb to H4.You will have to use FX headlamp & dome. The dome is quite BIG & it will accomodate all the wires in it. So no worries.

You will also need indicators,as once you change the headlamp, the integrated indicators cant be used. You can replace them with Bajaj Caliber or TVS Victor.

You will need the following spares, all of FX

• Headlight assemble complete ie.the dome & headlamp
• Clamps or Ears (this what the mechanics call it)
• Side indicators(FX ones are quite expensive so you can use any of the above mentioned)
• H4 wire harness--You will get it at any car spares shop. Just tell him you need a H4 type harness.It is 3 point socket.
• Electricians tape--For sealing the cut wires.

How to go about it?

• First you will have to remove the current headlight & disconnect the wires.Keep it aside safely.
• Remove the front forks.Ok upon removing them, you will see,that the headlamp was resting on a structure.You need to remove that,but dont destroy it. You would need the measurements to cut the length of the FX clamps,as they are higher in length. This part will take some time. Take both the clamps to a workshop where he can cut it & weld the joints.Once that is done, take it back to your bike, put it in the place, fix the forks & its done.Major part is done.
• Now remove the wires & put the dome in place. You will have to cut the headlamps wire & connect the H4 wires. Thing to note here is the lamp works as low & high beams. So you need to connect the wires accordingly. Ok Now how to check. Once you connect the H4 socket,connect the bulb & switch on the bike & see if the bulb is working in both low & high beams. If wiring is correct, both will work,else only one.
• Connect the indicators & check if they also work, before putting the headlamp.
• Connect all the wires & route it through the dome.There is enough space to take all those bunch of wires.
• Now you got yourself a light upgrade. Enjoy the night rides!!!!

Amaron has got a 5amp battery,this will be do the job buddy.

Regarding the block piston kit. The OEM kit costed me Rs.2000/- that was couple of years back. Dont know about the recent price.Should not be more than Rs.3000/- . The fit will contain Block,piston & piston rings.

Buy all of the above in original & no local items if you want to keep your bike running

All the best for the project.

Hope all this helps you.

Vishal

very well explained vishal..

its good that you are an active offline member of this forum too.
hey do you get parts from atul scooters (official tvs dealer)
near that alibhai premji's bike shop??
I've been there yesterday.

he has everything man,
even these svc people don't have what he has.
i asked the price of clutch plates and he said 190
planning to change as i can't wheelie with this clutch.

but he sure has all the genuine stuff...

Thanks NanoTech.

Yes I like to work on my bike DIY keeda . Go to the mech only if its something like clutch plate change or engine work.

And Atul Scooter guy knows me very very well, I get all my spares from him & he is genuine dealer. You can give him my ref.

Oh & I just live in the lane opposite to Atul.

finally my run in period is over
it was recommended 500 kms but i pulled till 1000
i revved the bike good today
i touched 90 on the highway for the first time with this new piston...
bike's torque is radically improved.
but still top end remains the same as old at least for now
will service within next 500 kms...

and yes I've noticed that if I'm at 4th gear and arr 60
i.e 5k rpm
and i suddenly revv the bike to reach top end, it loses the connection with the wheel, i.e the bike keeps revving till 8k but the speed remains the same..
feels as if you suddenly have pressed the clutch wile riding at speed.
i pull the throttle back and do it softly then it reaches good speed but i have to be very sensitive with the accelerator positioning or else again i get that clucth pressed like response.

today was the first day or hard run in, but since i pulled it till 1000 i don't think that's an issue.
i don't even think clutch is an issue....

what say??

and yes vishal
do you have the info about that idling screw??
i mean my screw is jammed and nothing can move it even a centimeter..
i have loosened my accelerator cable to decrease the idle revs..
but the accelerator is a bit loose now and i don't like it..

can this be the reason of the above clutch like response on instant revving...

if you can then please ask the cost of that entire screw idle assembly thing from the atul guy,
it will be very helpful...
if affordable I'll buy or else live with what i have, who needs very proper idling anyways!!


@ chief
DO NOT go for different socket bulb than the one the reflector housing has...
it would be a pain to attach it
also if successful, your beam switches, i.e from high to low and vice-versa won't give a good performance.
if you look at the bulb in the picture below



you'll see that there are 2 different filaments.
the lower one, i.e close to the base of the bulb is for low beam
while the top one is for high beam...
if you look carefully than you'll notice that there is a small spoon head type reflector below the high beam filament...

it is aligned in such a way that it will throw the light on your main headlight assembly in a way that would give you a high beam...
if you put this bulb say in your own stock classic fiero's reflector than that high beam funda won't work as your reflector is not designed for this type of bulb....
also if that spoon kinda thing is misplaced by rotation of the bulb, (which will happen if fitted in different socket) than bulb won't perform well...

and yes the length of the bulb also matters, these bulbs are designed for h4 reflectors, if they light up at different lengths inside the headlight to give proper beam spread, you cannot guarantee a good beam spread if you use a different reflector and will do no good but more harm

go for what Vishal is saying..
if you don't get the Fiero FX's headlight assembly like vishal's, don't worry you can go for any round headlamps which are there in many bikes...
make sure it has an h4 bulb though...
host of the headlight assemblies come with the bulb already inside, the same one the pic is showing.
and PLEASE go for original reflectors only...
the local / cheap ones turn the glass YELLOW with time and damage a lot of beam spread...

hope this helps.

fiero and the suspension

Hi,
mines been an absolutely trouble free bike except for the front shocks which get stuck everywhile. what ive done so far

1) checkd for the fork bend (No fork bends)
2) Oil seals are perfect
3) Springs have been changed with original
4) All other spares are original
5) checked the bearings which were rusted got them changed

I felt the problem was either with the quantity of oil ? Any idea as to much much fork oil necessary in each pipe. What do you think could be the problem. I have tried to fix it for about 6 times now and problem persists after 10-15 days of fixing. Till then it works perfect.

@ Vishal and NANOtech.

thanks guys for your expert ideas on lighting and other stuff... I realy want to follow up on that if I get a little more free time... Quite busy these days with work.

The other day I had to park the bike in the sun in the parking lot. the bike was filled to the brim in the morning... and when I came out the Security guard was shocked! ... he was saying the petrol was boiling and spilling off and he could do nothing about it. I looked and saw the fuel - approx half a liter had supposedly boiled and spilled off the cap!!! ... and was dripping off the sides and unto the ground.

Makes me wonder if the fuel was adulturated or something!

hey arun welcome to xbhp...
you can post your introduction in the who am i section before starting queries so that we can know you better and also understand your interests....
which bike you have, how long are you riding from, and other biking related stuff...

Ok coming back to the topic..
since you got all the parts double checked and replaced whatever was necessary then there's no problem regarding that for sure...
whenever you open the oil seals to do the necessary replacement work, and put oil say in one of the fork tubes, you have to open up the other fork too and equalize it with exactly the same amount of oil that went in the new fork...
this is an important step..

i think this is the only problem that you are facing, and this imbalance is also causing damage more frequently..

this is MY OPINION
it might not be right...
but i strongly think this is the reason..
others would make you know better..

dude..
PETROL boils at 95 degree Celsius
or 203 degree Fahrenheit at 1 atmospheric pressure...
yes you heard me right 95
it does evaporate under the sun just like water does but not BOIL...
it surely is some adulteration...
blue smoke, now boils, i really think that you should head to a consumer forum and sue these petrol sellers....
its recommended to keep the bike away from direct sunlight as fuel evaporates with the sun's heat, specially BLACK bikes...
as black color absorbs more heat...

evaporation and boiling are very different concepts...
my college does not have bike parking inside the premises hence i park outside on the road and it stays exactly under the sun for 5 hours all day.
with a full tank i roughly loose 30 km...
so its roughly 1.3 km a liter...
not quite noticeable after all day's evaporation..
in a row for 30 continuous days...
so your 1 day and half liter is way toooooooooo high.

-------------------------------------------------------
NANOtech... yes our petrol is subject to adulturation and the government faces many criticisizms regarding the oil... but still once in a while they get about doing it... specially in times of crisis.

Today it has been raining heavily since yesterday and the temp has dropped down... I noticed that the bike was finding hard to start... and stay alive... the gears felt knotchy and not smooth ... even the power was not there as usual. Had to ride the bike in the rains to work. I think the 20w-50 grade oil in the bike is quite thick which reflects in the transmission.

I have three 1 liter bottles of Gulf Pride 20w-40 oils with me which I am going to put in my servicing very soon ... I guess I will also see if the engine requires opening up for the new pistons etc. I require a new oil filter and cleaning up of the exhaust pipe. Does the new filter come with a new O-Ring? Does the changing of the piston and valves have positive effect on the power delivery?

yes chief
Every new oil filter comes with an o ring as much as i know....
but even if it doesn't you can buy a new one in 2-3 bucks.
well i never bought the o ring separately as much as i remember....
to be honest i never even thought about it.

TIP :-
the best way to ride in the rains is to keep your spark plug dry...
and of course try to keep your tyres on the ground

Method:-
Take good amount of grease and apply it over the ends of the spark plug (after it tucked in that connector) this will keep the water away and is much more effective than cello-tape or new rubber covers which wear out frequently.


Yes changing of piston and valves have great output...
my piston is slightly bigger in size and the performance is very easily noticeable...
it requires less rpm to get the same job done which earlier required more...
touches 105-110 effortlessly...
but i am not a speed freak, i like MID-RANGE grunt more.
and i got exactly what i wanted after getting piston changed...

1 Suggestion from my side :-

Guys please please go for boring method instead of new block if the cylinder is not previously bored, as the output is better than the stock even if kept in mint condition...
aftermarket stuff like better air intake, jetting, sprocketing, free flow exhaust can be done anytime, but nothing can give better in low rpm than the piston....
i strongly recommend to get boring done if needed instead of new cylinder.
performance increase is INCREDIBLE.

By the way chief, how much does 1 liter of petrol cost there??

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NANOtech,

Cost of petrol per liter here is (when converted to Indian Rupees) INR. 53.125/- after the price hike.

Your Suggestion & Tip is highly appreciated. I had been thinking of ordering a new piston block... but you have cleared my doubts away... I shall opt for my cylinder boring as mine has not been touched before.... I am a little doubtful about all the necessary stuff they may require in the process. So I want to be prepared with the original ones before the venture. You know... I don't want the engine to be fitted with make-do kind of materials. The engine has been superb till now and I want to give it a new life.

I too am not a speed freak... but occasionally, when I am in the mood and the road is clear, I like the engine to do its bit and deliver me good speed and power. I prefer more torque and pick-up, as this is more important in the city traffic where we spend so much time commuting to and from work. Low-range pull and Mid-range grunt is the most important factor for our everyday needs.
I definitely will do the greasing bit. Can you suggest me a good Spark plug for Fiero? NGK Iridium is too expensive... I guess conventional ones do a good job too.

I used to just ride my bike before... without taking care and without considering it's needs... Thanks to you guys, I have started feeling differently about my Trusty Old Fiero. I have started to feel like it is a living organizm like us and we need to take good care of it so that it behaves good and delivers when we require it to. Considering the many abuses I have thrown at it, it has been very very faithful to me.

well said..
you have to take care just as you take care of your girlfriend and it will keep you happy .
engine work is not very complicated.
all we have in mind is that its a complicated process and if not done correctly will cause high damage and we take it for granted that there's hardly anybody perfect and we prefer to delay or options.
its not true
this work does need attention to minor things but its very simple.
to be honest if you are good at tools you can do it tooo.
so many racers in the world used to work on thier own engines....
Burt Munrow held a LAND SPEED RECORD in the 60's on his 1920 Indian twin..
he work on his OWN engine..

all i mean to say it that things are not complicated as they seem to be.


coming to spark plug..
i think you can settle down for any spark plug.
i haven't tried an aftermarket spark plug even once, but as much as i have an idea, i don't think practically it makes sense as the concept of spark requirement in running doesn't need refinement.
even if it does i don't think it would make a difference in performance, provided you have a twin cylinder bike.
JUST MY OWN OPINION...
i could be wrong...

but i don't think the money spent on nkg's is worth it..

Hey where are other guys in this forum??
how's sarvajit's bike ??
post pics guys if your getting engine work done.

^^^ @NANOtech,

thanks for the infor on Sparkplugs... I don't even remember what brand I have at the moment... but it's been firing for sure. I remember people saying a good one saves fuel, gives more mileage ... does not get black etc etc ... is it really true? I mean how much fuel can a sparkplug save? I guess it all depends upon the condition of the bike.

I need to get an original Clutch cable... the other day mine got broken and had to replace in a hurry and only got the inside cable replaced which is not a good fit and had to be cut to adjust ... and also feels very hard and I think that could be the reason for my engine feeling rough.