Yup its one bright round beam. High beam is something I am working on, along with few other small things. HID is something I want, but like others no idea how to convert AC to DC while making sure battery doesn't run out of juice.

Have read some of the earlier posts about the conversion and it working fine. Will talk to the mechanic if he can do it. Not sure, who suggested, but could the items and process be listed in a way that would be understood by him. Thanks a ton in advance.

its a simple process.
just get the coil re-winded with a 19 guage wire, atleast 12.5 feet of wire per pole.

make sure its a single wire which goes in gets rewinded and comes out without any other contact.
no ground or something that is the stock's case.

connect the coil output to the ape rr (piaggio's ape 3 wheeler) grey wires.
use the remaining wire from ape rr, to connect to the battery.
yellow to positive, black to negative.
that's it, now your battery will get handsomely charged.
just route the headlamp wire from the battery and you will be on FULL DC.

all you need is a person who rewinds coil.
piaggio's ape rr
and a good battery, 5 or more amps, 9 amps recommended .

hey NANOtechnology,

Wow that sounds pretty nice. Thank You so much. Have been wanting to put a HID in the projector since very long. Let me give it a shot coming weekend. Is the rewinding absolutely necessary? Can that step be skipped?

rewinding is done not only for better charging, but for even most important thing, i.e floating the ground..

our fiero stator has 7 poles.
3 of them charge the battery.
4 of them give out AC current to the headlamp, tail lamp, console.

if you skip the rewinding part, 4 poles will get wasted as that current will go no where.
if you rewind, what you will be doing is USE ALL THE 7 POLES for charging itself.
hence charging will be more than double, enough to light up 2 hid's...

I've said this a million of times in xBhp by now

Alright sounds logical. Thanks a lot Nano. These two posts from you are extremely valuable to me. Will greatly help me in completing my bike.

So once this is done, the entire stator provides charging current to the battery. The battery provides current to all electrical in the bike.

As per my understanding the electrician would need to do the following:

1. First Rewind the coil with the suitable gauge wire.
2. Then connect output to Ape RR's grey wires. RR would be connected to the battery?
3. Once done, he will have to disconnect current source for headlight, etc from the 4 AC poles and connect it to the battery. The bulbs for headlight, tail light need any alterations while shifting from AC current to DC?
4. Fit HID.

In the end, there will be no AC source to power any auxiliary lamp just in case.

Do correct me if I have taken a wrong path anywhere. Hope to be absolutely clear on the process when I go to the electrician. Technically and language challenged here.

see whatever current generated in the stator is AC.
what we are doing is installing the ape rr, so it will convert the entire current to DC, limit it to 14.5 volts and send it to battery..

the good thing about ape rr is that it never overcharges the battery..
if your battery is 2.5 amps, it will provide 1 amp to the battery.
if 5 then 2 amps,
if 9 than 4 amps..

if your load is more, the current will be supplied more, but voltage will strongly remain 14.5v

you will make everything DC.
if you want to install an aux lamp somewhere, just connect it to the battery, it will work normally..

make sure use a good 5 amp or i recommend 9 amp battery.
then everything will glow amazingly...

i come again..
rewind all the poles with a single 19 gauge wire, minimum 12 feet per pole..
without any other grounding, route both the ends of the output wire to ape RR's grey wires.
yellow wire of ape RR will go to battery +ve
black wire of ape RR will go to battery -ve

your current rr will be useless, also the input rr socket of the wiring harness (stock) will go useless, as it has AC route of wires..

all you'll have to do then is find a green wire inside your headlamp dome, (that's DC wire by stock)
connect the headlamp and pass wire to it..
and you are done...

flicker free and hid ready headlamp .....
gimme a call if you get stuck anywhere, I'll PM you my number.

Brilliant, just what I wanted to know. Completes the circuit atleast in my head. Thanks a ton man. Will try this next weekend along with bike's servicing. Shifting home this weekend. Thanks for the number, will surely give you a call in case there is a confusion. Now a hunt for this Ape RR and an electrician.

Thanks a lot Nano. Will update the progress.

no need to thank me buddy.
we all are here to help each other.
click some pictures and upload if possible...

waiting eagerly for my 180cc stuff.
this Saturday is D-Day !!!

Oh sure we are. Yup bike badly due for a Service, the rains in hyderabad have given is a dirt bike look, clogged air filter and a leaking fork. Things in mind apart from general servicing: 1. AC to DC 2. rear Shocker change to Victor or RTR gas ones 3. HID 4. Bullet/FZ handle bar 5. Chroming/painting of my FFE.

Will try to do as many of these next weekend. Packing, shifting to a new flat and unpacking coming weekend.

180 stuff. All the best. Do keep us updated.

tomorrow is D-Day...

my bike is having its last day with a 150cc piston..

i have a list of things to be done, i know i asked here a lot of times, but still check weather anything more needs to be done or not.

1- apache 180 block (which includes piston and rings)
2- head boring (both the top and middle part to 62,5mm)
3- head porting (for that extra power)
4- carb jetting -- was it 112 or 115 jet that i should plonk, and from where to buy??
5- a spark plug change (maybe)
6- FZ handlebar

anything else???
please let me know....

Point # 2 .Just ask the lathe guys to match the head of your bike to the bore of RTR180(62.5 mm).

Point # 4 Buy both the jets at any bajaj/spare shop.

Point # 5Yes needed. NGK R CR7E

Do keep us updated and remember you have a reputation to keep.So detailed write up with pictures are expected at the least.Good luck with the venture .We do hope that the porting and rest of the work which are needed gets done properly.

Anand

@Anand :-Why is the NGK spark plug necessary? I use a Bosch one. will changing to NGK make any difference?

Are you using the bosch twin electrode one of the apache ?If yes ,then its ok.I have tried whole lot of plugs and the best that i've found out for stock engine as well as my 195cc engine ,has been the stock plug NGK R CR7E or it's iridium equivalent NGK R CR7E IX .
Spark plug as i am sure you are aware of plays a very big role in the engine's performance and its health.So heat range is very important along with the type of the plug.The bosch twin electrode is a protruding type .Meaning the center electrode protrudes,which makes the plug hotter.Were as the NGK R CR7E is a flush center electrode type,meaning it's colder.Which means engine will be in good health when ripped.I've read the theory and tried it out too to an extent.
Bottom line is NGK R CR7E/8E/9E series of plugs are cooler than bosch ones .Hence safer and keeps the engine smooth when ripped hard.Its been my personal experience too.
Anand

sure gixxer bro..
I'll grab my camera along..
i hope all turns up to be good...
tomorrow is a very important day, and also a tiring one for me and for vishal.
poor lad, he waits all week for Saturday to arrive and i ruin his weekends ...

I've given my bike a good wash today, as tomorrow is her photoshoot.
tell me one more thing gixxer, are we just changing the main jet??
and am i buying 2 of these for trial and error??

i don't know a damm thing about carbs apart from tuning it.
i wish all gets completed well.
will try to keep a reputation, writeup will be there by midnight tomorrow if all goes well.

thanks a lot for all your help.
lets see how good things work..

watch this space ......

1. Should be fine. Get the complete kit, do not re use anything from current block. Also try a 160 kit. This what I have and mine is rated at 187cc, 21bhp. Lesser if you stick to stock exhaust.
4. Go for stock RTR180 carb.
5. Yes change. Stock RTR180 spark plug with harness.
6. Let me know how it feels, I would probably go for it too.

You might want to consider exhaust. Stock exhaust is not designed for the extra amount of gases coming out. The load on outlet valve increases with chances of it burning out due to untimely exit of gases. Also, the head would never be able to clear out burnt gases quickly. I felt a noticeable difference when I shifted from Stock exhaust to Free Flow.

Are you changing the CDI too? I think you will have to. Just confirm.