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  • Originally posted by Sarvajit View Post
    @NANOtechnology: How was the timing adjusted? I would like to know, as I have been advised by gixxer_junkie_m to get that checked at my next service.
    Tomorrow is my R15's 2 year end service, hopefully next to next weekend I should be able to get my Fiero F2 serviced too. If there is no engine work required, I'm planning for new rubber.
    Will keep all updated as usual.
    Hi Sarvajit,
    Go for Michelins.Get a 3.25 X 18 M45 or Sirac Street 100X80X18.

    For the timing, you can refer to Gixxer's post.

    Originally posted by gixxer_junkie_m View Post
    Let the mech handle the ignition timing .In simple terms .The ignition timing is checked by rotating the crank till the "T" is at the marked position ,which means the piston is at TDC(top dead center) and the cam position is set by making sure that the two lines on the cam sprocket are level with the head.Which makes sure ,at TDC the valves will be shut.A spark is generated from the CDI at the power stroke and this ignites the fuel air mixture of the power stroke.
    The term advancing the timing means the spark happens when the piston hasn't reached the TDC which creates knocking /pinging .If the mixture is lean then the flame doesm't propagate in a even manner over the piston and it ends up spontaneously exploding resulting in knocking/pinging.The crank will be pushing up and the combustion would be pushing the piston down.In short if this continues ,its sayonara time for the engine.
    Retarding the timing means the spark happens when the piston has reached TDC.It is generally ok and safer for stock engines and helpful for a modified engine with higher compression.
    Bulls Eye Anand.


    Vishal
    Last edited by imjoshee; 10-09-2010, 08:08 PM. Reason: Spelling mistake

    Comment


    • Originally posted by chief ashman View Post
      ================================================== ======

      NANO bro, you're the one to insist on me getting my first break-in servicing done at 500 km after my engine re-bore and piston change. Well I got it done at 650 km. My engine was not an upgrade. I guess bro, since your engine is an upgrade with a major re-bore , you should strictly follow the breakin advice. OK you can probably go up to 650 or 700 kms, but get it serviced with oil and oil filter change, and tappets adjusted if required. Get it done and feel the difference.
      @ chief
      bro, i am ready for run in until 2000 kms, of course i will change the oil and the oil filter at 500 kms, but even after that my idea is to keep the engine below 50kmph UNTIL 2000 KMS.
      but since now all are asking me to rip it up after 500 kms itself, i still will go for at-least 1000 kms.
      so far 385 kms have been complete...
      Giving a lot to a fiero.
      Expecting a lot from a fiero.

      Comment


      • Originally posted by gixxer_junkie_m View Post
        Let the mech handle the ignition timing .In simple terms .The ignition timing is checked by rotating the crank till the "T" is at the marked position ,which means the piston is at TDC(top dead center) and the cam position is set by making sure that the two lines on the cam sprocket are level with the head.Which makes sure ,at TDC the valves will be shut.A spark is generated from the CDI at the power stroke and this ignites the fuel air mixture of the power stroke.
        The term advancing the timing means the spark happens when the piston hasn't reached the TDC which creates knocking /pinging .If the mixture is lean then the flame doesm't propagate in a even manner over the piston and it ends up spontaneously exploding resulting in knocking/pinging.The crank will be pushing up and the combustion would be pushing the piston down.In short if this continues ,its sayonara time for the engine.
        Retarding the timing means the spark happens when the piston has reached TDC.It is generally ok and safer for stock engines and helpful for a modified engine with higher compression.
        ================================================== =====

        Gixxer bro, that's a very technical and detailed explanation up there. Thanks for clarifying and clearing all doubts.

        Comment


        • Originally posted by NANOtechnology View Post
          @ chief
          bro, i am ready for run in until 2000 kms, of course i will change the oil and the oil filter at 500 kms, but even after that my idea is to keep the engine below 50kmph UNTIL 2000 KMS.
          but since now all are asking me to rip it up after 500 kms itself, i still will go for at-least 1000 kms.
          so far 385 kms have been complete...
          ================================================== ====

          Choice of speed is up to you, I'm sure going up to 65 or 70 km occasionally might prove beneficial for your engine. It's a good idea not to push a new engine too hard even after the first oil change... until second servicing. Cheers!!!

          ... and do give us periodical feedback on how the new engine feels.

          Comment


          • @chief ashman @vishal

            Thanks guys ,it's not detailed enough ,but good enough to get an idea about it.

            Anand
            Life begins, once you hit the power band !!

            Comment


            • Friends the picture of the baffle modification and the end-pipe widening job.Its a bit crude but a cost effective modification ,the bike has lost a bit of the bottom end rush ,but the missing at mid-range has disappeared now. . So now i am not sure whether it had anything to do with the electricals ,as it looks like the decrease in back pressure due to the big hole put in the baffle seems to have done the job.The thing is ,back pressure creates lot of stress on the pumping efficiency of the engine and it must have been the case with my bike i think.
              Life begins, once you hit the power band !!

              Comment


              • @gixxer_junkie_m, NANOtechnology, imjoshee: Thanks for the inputs. Though most of it was Greek&Latin, I figured out I have to check the spark timing with the T set at the top, right? I'll ask the mech to check it in front of me.

                As for the rubber, don't you guys think Michelin will be a tad expensive? My R15's service is gonna cost me almost 3K, so just thinking if Dunlop is a bad choice?

                Another thing: I don't have my manual with me now, but I remember it saying somewhere that Veedol Take Off/Swift are recommended oils. This is what I found on the website, can one of you please cross check with the manual&lemme know? Was synthetic oil recommended back in 2004 or rather was it even there? Also, is Veedol Super Swift the new name for Veedol Swift?
                Last edited by Sarvajit; 10-11-2010, 12:25 PM.
                Quench my thirst with gasoline!

                Comment


                • Originally posted by Sarvajit View Post
                  @gixxer_junkie_m, NANOtechnology, imjoshee: Thanks for the inputs. Though most of it was Greek&Latin, I figured out I have to check the spark timing with the T set at the top, right? I'll ask the mech to check it in front of me.

                  As for the rubber, don't you guys think Michelin will be a tad expensive? My R15's service is gonna cost me almost 3K, so just thinking if Dunlop is a bad choice?

                  Another thing: I don't have my manual with me now, but I remember it saying somewhere that Veedol Take Off/Swift are recommended oils. This is what I found on the website, can one of you please cross check with the manual&lemme know? Was synthetic oil recommended back in 2004 or rather was it even there? Also, is Veedol Super Swift the new name for Veedol Swift?
                  Tide Water Oil Co. (India) Ltd. - Products
                  Dunlop geo-cruiser as we both know is good enough.Try finding out the price difference between the two(michelin vs dunlop).Bprags has michelin 3.25 18 and he's of the opinion that its grippy but ends up having lot of damage when puncture happens ,as it seems to be made of softer rubber.

                  Anand
                  Life begins, once you hit the power band !!

                  Comment


                  • @Gixxer :- How much did the pulsar Head Light assembly cost you?

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by bprags View Post
                      @Gixxer :- How much did the pulsar Head Light assembly cost you?
                      About 500 bucks 550 or 600 i think.Don't buy it from bajaj showroom ,because you would have to buy it as individual parts.You will get OE as a head light assembly at spare shops.
                      Life begins, once you hit the power band !!

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by gixxer_junkie_m View Post
                        Dunlop geo-cruiser as we both know is good enough.Try finding out the price difference between the two(michelin vs dunlop).Bprags has michelin 3.25 18 and he's of the opinion that its grippy but ends up having lot of damage when puncture happens ,as it seems to be made of softer rubber.

                        Anand
                        Point noted Sir.
                        I was also thinking maybe the Michelins M35&45 are too soft, and the Sirac is too hard! Maybe M62 is a good trade off, but then I don't really like the tread pattern that much.
                        As said earlier, I'm in love with the GeoCruiser! Will mostly be looking for the stock 3.00*18" this time.
                        All depends on the engine internals-if they are good to go, then next month 1st week will be my Fiero F2's treat!
                        Quench my thirst with gasoline!

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by Sarvajit View Post
                          Point noted Sir.
                          I was also thinking maybe the Michelins M35&45 are too soft, and the Sirac is too hard! Maybe M62 is a good trade off, but then I don't really like the tread pattern that much.
                          As said earlier, I'm in love with the GeoCruiser! Will mostly be looking for the stock 3.00*18" this time.
                          All depends on the engine internals-if they are good to go, then next month 1st week will be my Fiero F2's treat!
                          Hey settled in your new flat? I am finally done with my shifting, parents visiting, etc. Now time to service the Fiero, its been way over due. Will your mechanic be free this weekend? I need to get some electrical work done too on the bike, if time permits.

                          Rubber: I use Zapper FS stock size front and Zapper C stock size rear. Amazing grip on dry roads, but need to be little carefull on wet and sandy roads. If you are not the racer type and can control your horses in the wet then you might want to try MRF. Not sure about its availability now, but when I was looking them, they were not so easy to come by. I was considering Michelin too, but my riding style did not justify the price difference. Pretty happy with the decision to go in for zapper.
                          Last edited by MaSh; 10-13-2010, 05:05 AM.
                          **MaSh**

                          **Work to Ride and Ride to Work**

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by MaSh View Post
                            Hey settled in your new flat? I am finally done with my shifting, parents visiting, etc. Now time to service the Fiero, its been way over due. Will your mechanic be free this weekend? I need to get some electrical work done too on the bike, if time permits.
                            Yes, we are settled now, thanks. Unfortunately my leg has got sprained badly&I'm not able to move around much. Going to Bangalore this weekend. Yes, both my bikes' service is also overdue.
                            My mech.will be available on Sunday also for exclusive service-you have his no.I think. If you can wait till next month 1st week, I'll bring mine too.

                            Rubber: I use Zapper FS stock size front and Zapper C stock size rear. Amazing grip on dry roads, but need to be little carefull on wet and sandy roads. If you are not the racer type and can control your horses in the wet then you might want to try MRF. Not sure about its availability now, but when I was looking them, they were not so easy to come by. I was considering Michelin too, but my riding style did not justify the price difference. Pretty happy with the decision to go in for zapper.
                            I have the Zapper tyres on my R15 (of course they are softer than the regular Zappers), and not too happy with the idea of having them on my F2 (they don't hold up well in gravel). I don't think I would invest on Michelins on this old bike, since my R15's 2 year end service is gonna cost a lot.
                            I may end up going for Dunlop Geo&Ezee Cruiser mostly, but will revert to stock size for the rear this time. Depends on whether any engine overhauling is required.
                            Quench my thirst with gasoline!

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by Sarvajit View Post


                              Depends on whether any engine overhauling is required.
                              From what i can make out by looking at the state of your bike's spark plug,your engine's fine.So don't get it opened up without a reason.
                              The old adage " If it ain't broke,why fix it? ".

                              Oh ok,the bike's leaking oil right ?so that's why it needs to be opened up.

                              Anand
                              Last edited by gixxer_junkie_m; 10-13-2010, 05:28 PM.
                              Life begins, once you hit the power band !!

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Sarvajit View Post
                                Yes, we are settled now, thanks. Unfortunately my leg has got sprained badly&I'm not able to move around much. Going to Bangalore this weekend. Yes, both my bikes' service is also overdue.
                                My mech.will be available on Sunday also for exclusive service-you have his no.I think. If you can wait till next month 1st week, I'll bring mine too.


                                I have the Zapper tyres on my R15 (of course they are softer than the regular Zappers), and not too happy with the idea of having them on my F2 (they don't hold up well in gravel). I don't think I would invest on Michelins on this old bike, since my R15's 2 year end service is gonna cost a lot.
                                I may end up going for Dunlop Geo&Ezee Cruiser mostly, but will revert to stock size for the rear this time. Depends on whether any engine overhauling is required.
                                I could be going coming Friday as plan to ride on Saturday and Sunday. Suryalanka, Nagarjuna, somewhere.

                                Yup Zappers are tricky on gravel and wet roads.
                                **MaSh**

                                **Work to Ride and Ride to Work**

                                Comment

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