@Nanotech

Setting ignition timing is a very very important thing yes.But it is done by every mech, so if the mech understands the situation and knows how to set the timing so that the spark comes at TDC and not before.Job done.Then you can go ahead and get the carb tuned .But remember to take pictures of the plug and show it here.

NANO...You are getting into pre ignition phase...and because you are aware of it and switch off the engine your engine had survived...but not for long. Try adding additional gaskets at the bottom of the bore or in between the bore and head.Use Annabond liquid Gasket to seal.This will lower your compression ratio,and then your bike will run cooler.Try and let me know.
But the best diagnosis is doing things step by step..CHECK YOUR COMPRESSION FIGURE AND COMPARE WITH STOCK..I think it is way above permissible level. Just my thought.
P.S. when you open the top head...just bring the piston up ,to top dead center and measure the gap between the 'BORE" top and "PISTON" top.Place a Metal SCALE VERTICALLY ACROSS the BORE TOP to measure.If they are the same...you must add additional packing between the bore and top head. There should be at least 1 to 1.5 mm gap between piston top and bore top in height at TDC.

What's the case with nanotech's bike is ,that since the head is 57 mm wide and the new bore kit is 62.5 mm wide .So this is the reason for very high compression.Once the head is made to match the 62.5 mm bore ,then the compression should come down a bit and i believe that will cool things a bit further.

The thing is i hope the lathe guys understand what needs to be done.Which is to match the head to the size of the bore.I sincerely hope that they don't mistake it for a head polishing job.

In my bike's case the whole thing was taken care off by the lathe ,that is they even increased the squish area around the valves a bit to decrease compression.As my bike's head is heavily ported.

@ psr

exactly, gixxer..
i was working on the images when you had written this, let me put those up anyways..

this is my current setup..




here notice the red squares in the head, those parts MAYBE touching the piston i believe.

so if the head is bored and made to this .....




compression will come down, so we may not need any more gaskets..


@ gixxer and psr..

that tock tock sound is not of knocking at all.
it never comes normally, it never comes even when i RIP my bike..

it come WHEN THE REVVS INCREASE TO 7.5K AUTOMATICALLY.

for 2-3 seconds when the revs stay at 7.5k, this noise starts, besides its really HARD and feels like something hitting very badly somewhere.

i am pretty much sure it maybe the piston hitting the head, however i could be wrong..

and i have FACED pre ignition only once, every-time after that i have only faced this problem of automatically revvs increasing to 7.5 which leads to this noise...

i tried opening the plug, but i don't have compatible spanner..

@Nanotech

You have the perfect picture buddy.Just get that done.

@Nanotech


What's happening at 7.5k rpm is pre-ignition and detonation.Maybe psr can throw some more light on it.

@Nano

Buddy just buy a 16 mm ring spanner and open the plug and show it here ASAP!!

i have a 17mm ring spanner, not 16, hence i couldn't open it..

besides, pre ignition is not happening, infact it happened just once.
whenever i ride after a while, and the engine gets hot (however it doesn't feel while riding that the engine is running hot, as we all are familiar with such a feeling) suddenly the only thing happens is that revvs DO NOT come down.

if i keep the bike running for 3-5 seconds holding the clutch when the bike's REVVS do not come down, i get to hear the noise !!!

i haven't been facing any other problem for now..

here you go gixxer bro..

i removed my spark plug..












another pic Without Flash to get a realtime idea.....






it seems okay to me, is it running lean??

Plug

Nano did you scrape the ground electrode tip ? It looks like it.If you haven't then heat had flaked off the deposits. The center electrode also looks a bit pale..I am unable to judge if it is flash or otherwise.Did you modify the ignition pick up coil in position or added more turns of winding ? Your plug center is white.
If the piston even slightly touch the top head under working condition, the top of the piston will flay outwards and seize....like your hitting the nail on the head with a hammer...and your Conrod will be bent like the BANANA.

i didn't understand the plug judgment sir.
the plug is only 800 kms old..
i just removed it, and without doing anything to it, clicked the picture...

BTW, i have modded my electricals and have added a lot of turns to the winding to give out 12 amps of current..
my bike's running dual HID's with NIL.. battery issues...

besides, the last pic is clicked without any flash for same reason...

Look closely at the ground electrode tip..it looks as if someone had tried to clean the deposit ONLY there.It is the point which comes directly above the center electrode and is the spark firing area.Normally the deposit on the electrode will be uniform.Your plug shows heating at the tip of ground lug.DID YOU ADJUST THE PICKUP COIL POSITION ON THE STATOR ? Try also to select a plug cooler than the present one.
If you want more current then you increase the wire thickness..The number of turns on the Stator should remain the same as original.If you increase the number of turns , IT WILL INCREASE THE OUT PUT VOLTAGE DEPENDING ON THE INCREASED NUMBER OF TURNS

@psr

Don't you think clear evidence of detonation? I mean look at the ground electrode it seems to have aluminum particles and a layer is off the top of the ground electrode.What do you think?

@Nanotech

The center electrode's insulator is very white buddy.Especially for a engine which just completed running in.It should have been black.Obviously we already know its pre-ignition and detonation .So the plug just shows the case.It's like stating the obvious.Nice pic's though ,especially the closeup with the flash,makes things easier for sure.

Pre-ignition and detonation is a foregone conclusion and the plug is stating the same.For me,as a layman ,the plug is saying a/f is very very lean especially if you consider the fact that it just finished running-in.

not only i used thicker wire, but i have also winded more number of turns..
and i am using a very rigid and robust RR unit to make sure all goes well...

i didn't understand the term "PLUG COOLER THAN THE PRESENT ONE"
no one have touched anything, plug was put in brand new by the mech 800 kms ago, and i removed it today, to click the picture.
didn't touch anything apart from the base with threading...

if we talk about YELLOW pole in the stator which is used to fire spark plug, its completely STOCK.
pickup coil is also completely stock with stock positioning..
is it that the current given to the spark plug TOO much ??

but isn't it also true that its only to do with the yellow pole which i left stock??

1 more thing i want to mention, the bike is completely stationary and haven't been ever tried to start it from the previous writeup about bringing the bike home..

neither will i do it after confirming that there's a bright solution to it..

if the head isn't been touched by the piston, what is that terrible noise ??


Thanks for the compliments on pics, i am getting better day by day

besides, now as you have seen it, tell me what next to do ??
can i make my A/F mixture very rich and take a risk of riding ??
is my bike running very lean ??
if i am getting this kind of unbeatable performance with bike running lean, what would it be after it becomes a perfect mixture ??
its getting difficult to control this power already.

can the carb be tuned electronically?
if yes, where can i get it done from ??

tomorrow a friend of mine is going to a junkyard for getting something, may ask the price of a used A180 head, if its cheap enough and in good condition, he might buy it...