Hi xBHPians,

I have been reading the ownership experiences you guys have shared for the FZ V2 and that has been a great learning experience.I have been a passive reader but now I have registered and be part of the discussions. I have been riding the FZ since 3 years now this thread was influential and duly referred for the decision to go for FZ V2. Havent had any issue with the bike.

Since past few months I have observed cracks in the rear tire sidewall. While the cracks are not very deep but with pillion they get more wide.
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*Excuse the dirty rims as I wasn't able to clean the rims for some time.

So I have decided ro change the tires. I want to put some dual sport or adventure touring tires. I went through the thread but havent found any reference for adventure tires. I have something on these lines in my mind although I am unsure about the price compared to the stock tires- https://m.moto.michelin.com/DC/en/ty...akee-wild.html
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Has anyone changed the tires to the knobby adventure / off road tires? How is the braking and handling? Both tires are slightly wide and tall but have the same rim size. Also do I need to change both tires since the front one has quite a bit of thread left.

Or do you think it is an overkill to have adventure or dual sport tires.

Another issue which I am facing is the chain. It makes odd grinding sounds and needs replacing. The rear sprocket seems fine and not due for change. The bike has run 15k kms. I felt the chain got damaged too early. When I showed the issue to service centre they advised changing the complete chain and sproket set.
Should I change the sproket set as well or the chain replacement alone is good?

Got the sprocket set and chain replaced. The pull in low gears felt reduced but the chain grinding noise is gone. The earlier sprocket teeth don't appear to be worn out. Might have run for another 5-6k kms. The stock chain lasted for 16k kms.

Still looking for tyre options. Anyone tried Pirelli MT-60? It comes in rear option of 140/80 17 TL



This one is more street tyre with some degree of off-road tread design.

Finally upgraded to led headlight . Got the nighteye leds from bangood.


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Build quality of the led is very impressive, and seems to be very sturdy too.
The stock dust cap can be fitted on these leds.




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High& low beam

Here is a video for the demo of beam pattern, sorry for the quality as my phone's camera is not that great so it may seem a bit dark.






The camera is not doing proper justice to the light as it is brighter in real life compared to the pictures.
These are way better as well as brighter than the stock halogen.
The only con is that as leds emit pure white light these are pretty useless in foggy conditions.
Hope they last long, will further update my experience after using extensively. Till now initial impressions are great.

I doubt that anyone has put the tyres you mentioned on their fz. Its a mere stylish commuter bike and these tyres are simply overkill for this bike and are very expensive too.
140/80 would be a very tall tyre and will surely touch the mudguard and the bike will get very tall geared and will be very sluggish in the lower rev band. Up size up to 140/70 or 150/60 is ok, still the bike will get tall geared but will be quite usable and would directly fit too.

If you are looking for off-road knobby tyres you can go for ralco speed blaster 140/70 or 160/70. People going to ladakh on their dominar & ktm use this tyre. Its cheap too.You can get it in local market.

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If you want something for grip and on road use you can check out michelin pilot street radials or mrf masseter both come in 140/70 size.Other cheaper alternatives are mrf zapper s 140/70 which I use and ceat zoom xl.

Yeah, its overkill given the capability of the tyres vs the max capacity of the bike. Mostly it was used in all the 600cc + bikes. I will check the price for ralco. In another thread I read that the ralco isn't good in wet conditions. But works nicely in dry gravel and broken roads.

Did you get the lights aligned after fitting. The reflector assembly is designed for the regular lamps and dont focus the led light properly. Instead they have a diffused glare when seen from the front. Its excessively glaring at night to an extent that I get momentarily blinded when a oncoming vehicle has aftermarket led lights.
Compared to manufacturer provided led lights, the aftermarket lights suffer from poor focus of the light beam. A mix of lens assembly and light power mismatch. The low or high beam doesn't seem to make much difference and are equally glaring. Although all these glare issues are faced by the oncoming vehicles. The new vehicles especially the cars have manufacturer provided led lights which are better focussed in the low beam mode and doesn't blind the eye.

I am recently facing an issue, when the engine heats up in stop and go traffic the rpm gets stuck at 3k and slowly comes down to idle. The rpm swiftly rises and falls above and upto 4k but stops at 3k and gradually falls. I have changed my accelerator cable about a year ago and the accelerator cable is completely fine & has normal play.
When the engine is cold the fall from 3k rpm to idle is faster compared to warm engine. What can be the possible reason for this issue?

Here is the video

I am recently facing an issue, when the engine heats up in stop and go traffic the rpm gets stuck at 3k and slowly comes down to idle. The rpm swiftly rises and falls above and upto 4k but stops at 3k and gradually falls. I have changed my accelerator cable about a year ago and the accelerator cable is completely fine & has normal play.
When the engine is cold the fall from 3k rpm to idle is faster compared to warm engine. What can be the possible reason for this issue

Hi Guys..
My bike is now 24k old..
Anyone suggest me a well balanced engine oil other than yamulube?
For modarte city use and occasianal touring?

Motul 51000 15W50 Semi Synthetic Wich Makes The Engine A Lot More Smoother And Better When Compared to Mineral Oil.

Yamaha recommends 10w 40 isn't it.

For the older FZ (v1) and R15, 15w50/20w40 was recommended.