Since '02 xBhp is different things to different people. From a close knit national community of bikers to India's only motorcycling lifestyle magazine and a place to make like-minded biker friends. Join us

Castrol Power 1

Dawn & dusk make slight hard to adjust.

Our Partner

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0

    Hey Guys,

    I've bought a FZ-FI on 26th sept. I'm just a beginner so I ride only in the early mornings when there is less traffic. Today I've completed 100km. So, just wanted to give a report.

    Bike Comfort and Handling: The bike is very comfortable. Although it is said that the riding stance is sporty, I personally didn't have any aches so far. Yes, the riding stance is not towards commuters but it is not very sporty also, in fact it is quite comfortable. The suspensions are quite good, trust me, I'm living in Guwahati and the roads here are of not the best quality. The bike rides through the potholes and broken roads quite easily. Handling is also top notch and the bike is quite stable even on the not so good roads.

    Engine: The engine of this bike is a bliss. A well refined and vibe-free. Throttle response and power delivery are very quick. Some times you'll feel as if the engine is not even running.

    Braking: The braking is also of top quality. The feedback you'll get from braking is just awesome. The disc brakes are very very powerful and the rear one is just ok. I feel that Yamaha should have incorporated disc brake at rear also.

    Looks: are subjective of-course. I find the looks to be fantastic.

    My experience so far: As I said above, I'm just a beginner so I may be wrong at some points. Anyway, here it is:

    1. I found that the gear shift is not very smooth and feels a bit hard on the first two days. Then, on today I revved the engine a bit more and pressed the clutch fully while shifting the gear and it felt smooth and the hardness is gone for good.

    2. So far, I've never felt the fuel gauge to indicate erratic behaviour. Guys complaining about it may do one thing, put your bike on dual stand always, it may help.

    ​Queries: Please give your opinions/answers/suggestions:

    1. Although it is recommended that you should not go above 4.5k rpm (i.e. roughly 65kmph) in run-in period, I went to 100kmph once, just touched the mark and brought the bike back to 40kmph. 99% of the time I ride below 50kmph/4.5krpm. My question here is that will my engine be affected as I've ridden the bike at 100kmph, although for a second only??

    2. I've found some mud/splashed from the front wheel on to the engine. Should I attach/fix a guard there? Won't it affect the air circulation on the engine causing less cooling??

    3. It will be really nice if you guys can suggest me how to maintain the bike. As this is my first bike, I don't have much knowledge.

    4. What are the problems you guys are facing and the causes of the problem. Do share it as it would be helpful to others also.

    5. What are the benefits of first servicing done at 1000km?? What if someone fails to complete 1000km before first servicing, what are the losses/effects?

    Please find below some pics:

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20140928_061104.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	60.3 KB
ID:	1891434
    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20140929_062320.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	62.2 KB
ID:	1891435
    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20140929_062334.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	70.1 KB
ID:	1891436
    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20140930_061448.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	40.4 KB
ID:	1891437
    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20140930_061610.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	40.5 KB
ID:	1891438

    All of the above points are IMHO only.

    Comment


    • Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0

      Hey man, congrats in your purchase. This machine is a bliss to ride.

      1. No it won't affect your engine. A second or minute hardly matters. Vary your rpm while riding, do not ride above 4.5k for prolonged period.

      2. Do not put anything to guard against mud splash. The engine is air cooled. So if air circulation is not proper it may over heat.

      5. Do servicing in scheduled dates. As for extended warranty (Yamaha protection plan) its mandatory.

      For rest of the points I think you should follow the instructions on the manual. The tank is really scratch prone. Take good care of it.

      Comment


      • Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0

        Originally posted by H3c70R View Post

        5. What are the benefits of first servicing done at 1000km?? What if someone fails to complete 1000km before first servicing, what are the losses/effects?

        .

        No effects as long as you follow run in procedure for 1000kms. I had my bike (fz v1) serviced at just 169kms (30 days after purchase) , 2nd service at 700kms.

        It is recommended that you change engine oil after 1000kms.

        Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
        There is no destination, I just want to keep riding.

        Honda CBR 650F / CBR 250R ABS Repsol (Sold) / Yamaha FZ-S

        Comment


        • Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0

          Originally posted by hgps View Post
          No effects as long as you follow run in procedure for 1000kms. I had my bike (fz v1) serviced at just 169kms (30 days after purchase) , 2nd service at 700kms.

          It is recommended that you change engine oil after 1000kms.

          Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
          Thanks for the information man!!

          Hey man, congrats in your purchase. This machine is a bliss to ride.

          1. No it won't affect your engine. A second or minute hardly matters. Vary your rpm while riding, do not ride above 4.5k for prolonged period.

          2. Do not put anything to guard against mud splash. The engine is air cooled. So if air circulation is not proper it may over heat.

          5. Do servicing in scheduled dates. As for extended warranty (Yamaha protection plan) its mandatory.

          For rest of the points I think you should follow the instructions on the manual. The tank is really scratch prone. Take good care of it.
          Thanks dude!!

          I checked the mileage today by tank full to tank full method and its coming around 55kmpl. However I'm riding currently on decent roads 90% of the time and at speed below 55kmph and in less traffic. I think it will go down when i will ride in city traffic. what do you guys think?
          Also, shifting of gears is a bit notchy while i'm shifting from 3rd to 4th gear, is it with me only or anyone else is facing the same?

          Comment


          • Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0

            Originally posted by H3c70R View Post
            1. Although it is recommended that you should not go above 4.5k rpm (i.e. roughly 65kmph) in run-in period, I went to 100kmph once, just touched the mark and brought the bike back to 40kmph. 99% of the time I ride below 50kmph/4.5krpm. My question here is that will my engine be affected as I've ridden the bike at 100kmph, although for a second only??

            2. I've found some mud/splashed from the front wheel on to the engine. Should I attach/fix a guard there? Won't it affect the air circulation on the engine causing less cooling??

            3. It will be really nice if you guys can suggest me how to maintain the bike. As this is my first bike, I don't have much knowledge.

            4. What are the problems you guys are facing and the causes of the problem. Do share it as it would be helpful to others also.

            5. What are the benefits of first servicing done at 1000km?? What if someone fails to complete 1000km before first servicing, what are the losses/effects?
            1) Although i am not an expert, but websites elsewhere say that you should rev the engine up until the redline a few times in short bursts during run-in period. But this should be done strictly after the engine is properly warmed up. Also it should be done progressively meaning first rev it up to 50% of max. RPM, then upto 75% and then upto 100% (all in few short bursts). And after that change your engine oil immediately. Also use mineral oil during the run-in period. It seems that synthetic oil is too slipperly for proper run-in.

            2) Not recommended. It affects air-cooling and aerodynamics. Your bike will not handle well at high speeds and also will return a poor fuel efficiency.

            3) Four suggestions:
            3.1) change engine oil frequently. Its ok to change it before it even lasts the full interval of oil change. Because your engine, gear-box and clutch are all using the same oil. In cars its different (gear-box has a different oil than the engine; and the clutch is never dipped in oil). Sometimes your mechanic might say that it can last for another 3 months, but still don't take a chance. If the oil appears black, replace it without hesitation.
            3.2) keep your tyres inflated to the right pressure. Always check for pressure when the tyres are cold. Preferably invest in a tyre inflator (if you have a car). Replace tyres after 4 years of their week of manufacture (week of manufacture is printed on the side wall of the tyre) or after the grooves are too shallow (less than 1.5mm).
            3.3) Keep the chain lubed at all times. The oil in open chains dry out faster, so keep a watch. You can buy a chain lube spray for this.
            3.4) Keep your bike clean. This is not for poser value , but for being able to check if there are any visible cracks on various parts of the bike. Also it helps in becoming familiar with various hidden parts of the bike.

            5) I would suggest that you change the oil immediately, since you have completed 100 kms and have revved the bike to max. RPM (see point 1). Not doing the initial free-services at recommended intervals and at authorised service-centres will void the warranty and the service centers will strictly and promptly take notice of that. So don't exceed even 1km or 1 day more than what the manual suggests.


            In addition, since you are a beginner, the 10,000 rule applies. For any expertise, you need to spend atleast 10,000 hours on that activity. So until then drive safely and carefully. It would be good if you can buy a motorcycle training tutorial (twist of the wrist) or read blogs, guides (MAX at XBHP is a good source) elsewhere to know how to drive a bike. Understand the physics behind what happens and why it happens. Remember that people who have ridden 2 lakh kms are also learning everyday, because each ride is different. Finally wear a good quality helmet at all times.
            Last edited by pradeepa; 10-01-2014, 01:41 PM. Reason: added the 10,000 rule

            Comment


            • Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0

              Hello people, was extremely confused between pulsar na and fz. Ultimately booked fz fi bike last week and it's expected to be delivered by last week of this month. Thingi noticed during short test ride was that gear shifts aren't as smooth as a Honda, may be I am wrong. Can the existing owners please clarify ?

              Comment


              • Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0

                Originally posted by pradeepa View Post
                1) Although i am not an expert, but websites elsewhere say that you should rev the engine up until the redline a few times in short bursts during run-in period. But this should be done strictly after the engine is properly warmed up. Also it should be done progressively meaning first rev it up to 50% of max. RPM, then upto 75% and then upto 100% (all in few short bursts). And after that change your engine oil immediately. Also use mineral oil during the run-in period. It seems that synthetic oil is too slipperly for proper run-in.

                2) Not recommended. It affects air-cooling and aerodynamics. Your bike will not handle well at high speeds and also will return a poor fuel efficiency.

                3) Four suggestions:
                3.1) change engine oil frequently. Its ok to change it before it even lasts the full interval of oil change. Because your engine, gear-box and clutch are all using the same oil. In cars its different (gear-box has a different oil than the engine; and the clutch is never dipped in oil). Sometimes your mechanic might say that it can last for another 3 months, but still don't take a chance. If the oil appears black, replace it without hesitation.
                3.2) keep your tyres inflated to the right pressure. Always check for pressure when the tyres are cold. Preferably invest in a tyre inflator (if you have a car). Replace tyres after 4 years of their week of manufacture (week of manufacture is printed on the side wall of the tyre) or after the grooves are too shallow (less than 1.5mm).
                3.3) Keep the chain lubed at all times. The oil in open chains dry out faster, so keep a watch. You can buy a chain lube spray for this.
                3.4) Keep your bike clean. This is not for poser value , but for being able to check if there are any visible cracks on various parts of the bike. Also it helps in becoming familiar with various hidden parts of the bike.

                5) I would suggest that you change the oil immediately, since you have completed 100 kms and have revved the bike to max. RPM (see point 1). Not doing the initial free-services at recommended intervals and at authorised service-centres will void the warranty and the service centers will strictly and promptly take notice of that. So don't exceed even 1km or 1 day more than what the manual suggests.


                In addition, since you are a beginner, the 10,000 rule applies. For any expertise, you need to spend atleast 10,000 hours on that activity. So until then drive safely and carefully. It would be good if you can buy a motorcycle training tutorial (twist of the wrist) or read blogs, guides (MAX at XBHP is a good source) elsewhere to know how to drive a bike. Understand the physics behind what happens and why it happens. Remember that people who have ridden 2 lakh kms are also learning everyday, because each ride is different. Finally wear a good quality helmet at all times.

                Thanks a lot man for the suggestions.

                Now its been 500+ kms.
                Guys, I'm really enjoying riding bike. I've so many questions and it would be really a help if you can answer and clear my doubt.
                I have checked the engine oil today, the level of oil and the colour of the oil is totally ok (the colour is like apple juice). Should I change it now or leave it for 1st servicing?

                At what km should I change the engine oil to semi-synthetic and synthetic. How frequently the oil should be changed considering normal riding.

                The gearing still feels a bit notchy. Anyone else having the same problem?

                Which is the best service centre of Yamaha at Guwahati? (Most important)

                Should I do a chain cleaning now or leave it for 1st servicing. The manual says that the chain should be cleaned with kerosene and lubrication should be done with engine oil. In xBhp I've read that people are using Motul or Yamalube chain cleaners.
                What kind of chain cleaner should be used?
                What is the price of Motul chain cleaner and Yamalube chain cleaner?
                How long each of them lasts?
                How frequently should we clean the chain?

                The manual I've received is the old manual i.e. for FZ (carburettor one). Is it same for everyone? Is there anything to know about how to maintain a FI engine? Any source of manual/pdf would be helpful.
                Last edited by H3c70R; 10-07-2014, 05:05 PM.

                Comment


                • Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0

                  Originally posted by H3c70R View Post
                  I have checked the engine oil today, the level of oil and the colour of the oil is totally ok (the colour is like apple juice). Should I change it now or leave it for 1st servicing?

                  At what km should I change the engine oil to semi-synthetic and synthetic. How frequently the oil should be changed considering normal riding.

                  The gearing still feels a bit notchy. Anyone else having the same problem?

                  How frequently should we clean the chain?
                  colour of the oil is totally ok (the colour is like apple juice). Should I change it now or leave it for 1st servicing?
                  The colour looks ok. Usually black coloured oil should be replaced. But in any case, i think it will not hurt if you replace the oil now. Your engine will thank you for it. :-)

                  At what km should I change the engine oil to semi-synthetic and synthetic?
                  After the full run-in period. I think its 2000 kms for motorcycles. Until then strictly use mineral oil only and with the recommended grades.


                  The gearing still feels a bit notchy. Anyone else having the same problem?
                  This depends on the engine oil. Usually old oils and mineral oils give a notchy feel when shifting gears. It will eventually go away when you switch to synthetic oil and especially after a fresh oil change.

                  How frequently should we clean the chain?
                  Whenever it appear to have a lot of dust/grime on it. Reg. when to lube the chain: whenever the chain looks shiny/glossy, it is lubricated well enough. Once the shine wears off, its time to lube the chain.


                  BTW, you need to note that there is also a run-in period for tyres and brake-pads. There is no procedure for run-in of these two components other than to use them for certain amount of times (for brake-pads) and kms (for tyres). For tyres, the first 100 kms are good enough. For brake-pads, not sure. But I guess, using your brakes during everyday riding for around 200 times will be good enough.

                  The key thing to note is that, during the run-in period for these two components, you need to be careful that your tyres will not give the best grip and your brake-pads will not give the best braking performance. Also your manual will not state these.

                  BTW, i saw that the twist of the wrist part 2 tutorial is available on youtube. Have fun. :-)

                  Comment


                  • Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0

                    Originally posted by H3c70R View Post
                    Thanks a lot man for the suggestions.

                    Now its been 500+ kms.
                    Guys, I'm really enjoying riding bike. I've so many questions and it would be really a help if you can answer and clear my doubt.
                    I have checked the engine oil today, the level of oil and the colour of the oil is totally ok (the colour is like apple juice). Should I change it now or leave it for 1st servicing?

                    At what km should I change the engine oil to semi-synthetic and synthetic. How frequently the oil should be changed considering normal riding.

                    The gearing still feels a bit notchy. Anyone else having the same problem?

                    Which is the best service centre of Yamaha at Guwahati? (Most important)

                    Should I do a chain cleaning now or leave it for 1st servicing. The manual says that the chain should be cleaned with kerosene and lubrication should be done with engine oil. In xBhp I've read that people are using Motul or Yamalube chain cleaners.
                    What kind of chain cleaner should be used?
                    What is the price of Motul chain cleaner and Yamalube chain cleaner?
                    How long each of them lasts?
                    How frequently should we clean the chain?

                    The manual I've received is the old manual i.e. for FZ (carburettor one). Is it same for everyone? Is there anything to know about how to maintain a FI engine? Any source of manual/pdf would be helpful.
                    Change the oil and oil filter during first service i.e. @ 1000kms or some days (mentioned in service booklet) from date of purchase. Some guys prefer to change the oil and oil filter @ 500kms during run-in period.

                    Stick to Yamalube, else your warranty will expire if you don't use recommended OEM oil. Yamalube is Semi-Synthetic (for FZ).

                    Gear does feel notchy when using Yamalube.

                    Clean and lube the chain yourself and don't depend upon SVC guys as they will not do it properly. Clean and lube the chain regularly @ interval of 500kms and @ 200-250kms during monsoons. You can use Motul Chain Cleaner to clean the chain and lube it with Gear Oil EP90/EP140 (rims will have oil flung from the chain). Else, if you can get Tribocor's Chain Cleaner and Chain Lube, use it eyes closed.

                    Manual should be of FI version and not Carb version, ask your dealer for it or mail India Yamaha.

                    Cheerz!!
                    Last edited by devils_friend; 10-07-2014, 09:19 PM.
                    The real beauty lies in throttle's twist!!

                    Headlight can be replaced, Head cannot be. Wear a helmet.

                    Comment


                    • Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0

                      I am confused between Gixxer & Fz v 2.0. Please help guys !
                      I took a test ride of yamaha Fz FI on sunday and gixxer this morning here in Pune. Both are really great bikes with lot of power and comfortable to ride.
                      Gixxer was not so comfortable for Pillion. The seat was sort of narrow.


                      Queries on Yamaha Fz 2.0 :-


                      1. Minimum Fuel Required. Yamaha Sales Rep ( at 2 different showrooms ) said that minimum 2.5 litres should be there in tank otherwise bike will turn off. Have you guys faced this issue?


                      2. Fiber body. Is it durable ? Does the plastic body long enough ?


                      2. Mileage. I saw people reporting avg of 40 for fi version. Does this rise after first service ? What mileage do you expect ?


                      3. Maintanaince. Is maintaining FI costly? I read that the cost is around 2500 /- for cleaning FI and has to be done every 6000 km. The yamaha sales person did not have answer to that question.






                      Thanks in advance !

                      Comment


                      • Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0

                        There is no minimum fuel required. I rode it once till the last drop.

                        Fiber body is okay, gives better mileage and agility due to lighter weight, but prone to scratches.

                        I am constantly getting mileage of around 50kmpl after 1st servicing.

                        I can't comment on maintenance, although I keep my bike pretty well maintained
                        Originally posted by angadpathak View Post
                        I am confused between Gixxer & Fz v 2.0. Please help guys !
                        I took a test ride of yamaha Fz FI on sunday and gixxer this morning here in Pune. Both are really great bikes with lot of power and comfortable to ride.
                        Gixxer was not so comfortable for Pillion. The seat was sort of narrow.


                        Queries on Yamaha Fz 2.0 :-


                        1. Minimum Fuel Required. Yamaha Sales Rep ( at 2 different showrooms ) said that minimum 2.5 litres should be there in tank otherwise bike will turn off. Have you guys faced this issue?


                        2. Fiber body. Is it durable ? Does the plastic body long enough ?


                        2. Mileage. I saw people reporting avg of 40 for fi version. Does this rise after first service ? What mileage do you expect ?


                        3. Maintanaince. Is maintaining FI costly? I read that the cost is around 2500 /- for cleaning FI and has to be done every 6000 km. The yamaha sales person did not have answer to that question.






                        Thanks in advance !

                        Comment


                        • Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0

                          Don't ride on low fuel for many kms. The fuel pump will go kaput and will make a huge hole in your pocket to replace it.

                          Cheerz!!
                          The real beauty lies in throttle's twist!!

                          Headlight can be replaced, Head cannot be. Wear a helmet.

                          Comment


                          • Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0

                            It was just once that I did that.. But i always keep good amount of fuel in my bike..

                            Originally posted by devils_friend View Post
                            Don't ride on low fuel for many kms. The fuel pump will go kaput and will make a huge hole in your pocket to replace it.

                            Cheerz!!

                            Comment


                            • Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0

                              Originally posted by pradeepa View Post
                              colour of the oil is totally ok (the colour is like apple juice). Should I change it now or leave it for 1st servicing?
                              The colour looks ok. Usually black coloured oil should be replaced. But in any case, i think it will not hurt if you replace the oil now. Your engine will thank you for it. :-)

                              At what km should I change the engine oil to semi-synthetic and synthetic?
                              After the full run-in period. I think its 2000 kms for motorcycles. Until then strictly use mineral oil only and with the recommended grades.


                              The gearing still feels a bit notchy. Anyone else having the same problem?
                              This depends on the engine oil. Usually old oils and mineral oils give a notchy feel when shifting gears. It will eventually go away when you switch to synthetic oil and especially after a fresh oil change.

                              How frequently should we clean the chain?
                              Whenever it appear to have a lot of dust/grime on it. Reg. when to lube the chain: whenever the chain looks shiny/glossy, it is lubricated well enough. Once the shine wears off, its time to lube the chain.


                              BTW, you need to note that there is also a run-in period for tyres and brake-pads. There is no procedure for run-in of these two components other than to use them for certain amount of times (for brake-pads) and kms (for tyres). For tyres, the first 100 kms are good enough. For brake-pads, not sure. But I guess, using your brakes during everyday riding for around 200 times will be good enough.

                              The key thing to note is that, during the run-in period for these two components, you need to be careful that your tyres will not give the best grip and your brake-pads will not give the best braking performance. Also your manual will not state these.

                              BTW, i saw that the twist of the wrist part 2 tutorial is available on youtube. Have fun. :-)
                              Originally posted by devils_friend View Post
                              Change the oil and oil filter during first service i.e. @ 1000kms or some days (mentioned in service booklet) from date of purchase. Some guys prefer to change the oil and oil filter @ 500kms during run-in period.

                              Stick to Yamalube, else your warranty will expire if you don't use recommended OEM oil. Yamalube is Semi-Synthetic (for FZ).

                              Gear does feel notchy when using Yamalube.

                              Clean and lube the chain yourself and don't depend upon SVC guys as they will not do it properly. Clean and lube the chain regularly @ interval of 500kms and @ 200-250kms during monsoons. You can use Motul Chain Cleaner to clean the chain and lube it with Gear Oil EP90/EP140 (rims will have oil flung from the chain). Else, if you can get Tribocor's Chain Cleaner and Chain Lube, use it eyes closed.

                              Manual should be of FI version and not Carb version, ask your dealer for it or mail India Yamaha.

                              Cheerz!!
                              Thank you Guys !!

                              Please don't find it rude but i am again popping up my question.

                              Which is the best service centre of Yamaha at Guwahati?? Please someone suggest or should I ask in a different thread (if yes, please suggest the thread).

                              Where can I find Motul Chain cleaner and chain lube in Guwahati at reasonable price? Also, How many times one can clean the chain from 1 bottle of spray?

                              Has anyone completed 6k kms? Or has anyone cleaned the FI system. I've heard that it is needed to be cleaned at every 6k Kms and cost of each cleaning is 2500/-... Is it true?

                              Pl help. Always appreciate the prompt response from you guys. And xBhp is a wonderful platform to learn about your bike. Thank you xBhp.

                              Happy riding.

                              Comment


                              • Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0

                                There is a post here about DIY for fuel injector cleaning for R15: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/do-yours...-cleaning.html

                                In that he cleaned it using petrol. But if your service centre uses a special detergent for cleaning the injector, then i guess it will be a bit expensive, depending on whether the detergent is locally made or imported. I guess i will have to check my car service records to see how much did they charge for the fuel injector cleaning.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X