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KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

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  • Re: RC390 Side stand error( Brass nut missing/broken)

    Originally posted by anirbanjana View Post
    Hi, I have a rc390 2017. The side stand sensor is broken. The fault is that the brass nut attached to the side stand(which touches the plate when retracted) is fallen off somewhere. The bike is now stalled. The sensor is not in the same place as the older models so I can't by pass it. Has anyone faced the same issue? On older bikes maybe? How do you suggest I fix it? The stand is too tight to remove. Oh, the end of the nut is still stuck in the groove. so got to remove that as well. Let me know what my options are.


    [ATTACH]231475[/ATTACH]
    if what @s1d said is not possible, just stick a piece of magnet to the same spot as the nut, tie the magnet securely & then you are ready to roll.. just check around the stand, maybe the magnet is still stuck somewhere like behind the stand or somewhere, take a detailed look around!!! if you find it, stick it with some feviqwik, I did that and no issues so far.. but I still have that "bypass" sensor.. good thing to have..

    to fix that, the svc will simply charge you 800 (maybe 1000 now?) and put a new stand instead of simply removing the old screw & putting a new one.. a 10 n.p. job costing you a whole good 800!!!!
    Last edited by Ajay Vishwanath; 07-07-2017, 12:29 AM.

    live long.. live happy.. that's the best revenge that can be served to the people who hate you..

    PDI Checklist here - Emergency Contacts

    Gear:
    MT Revenge [Arrowtip] | SMK Twister [Blade]
    Spartan Helios | Spartan Icarus
    BB Gears Racer Gloves | Aspida Phaeton
    BB Gears Tourer| Allen Cooper 1157
    Spartan Odysseus
    2007 - 2010 Kinetic Nova
    2010 - 2015 Honda Unicorn
    2014 - 2019 KTM RC 200
    2017 - Today KTM Duke 390

    Comment


    • Re: RC390 Side stand error( Brass nut missing/broken)

      Originally posted by s1d View Post
      am not sure how the new rc390 is wired up.
      on the older ones you could use the bypass plugin (sold by one Mr.Dhaval Mahidharia) or call up your service center (they also have a similar device that will bypass the sensor).
      some folks on in other countries have said that you could short out two of the pins on the sensor connector using a wire or a 10k resistor (which is probably what these bypass plugins are doing).. never tried it.

      your best bet would be contact your service center and ask them if its possible to bypass the side stand sensor like on the older versions (or if they have another solution) if so borrow it and use it to get the bike to the svc and then replace the required parts.

      Here is a link i found from another forum:
      Side Stand Sensor Bypass KTM Duke 390

      can you a post a pic of the wire/connector going up from the side stand sensor (usually tied to the frame with a zip tie above the side stand area)

      or maybe simply weld a bit of metal to the broken part so that it touches the plate when retracted ?


      Hi,

      The wiring is different in 2017 models. The sensor is placed under the seat and is a 3 pin connector this time apparently. Mr.Dhaval's product will not work(I ordered one and then returned it already) The service center is 10kms from my place and I dont think they will come. I have called clutcheal(check them out) and they will remove the stand for me. Will take it to the svc and get it fixed.

      ----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

      Originally posted by Ajay Vishwanath View Post
      if what @s1d said is not possible, just stick a piece of magnet to the same spot as the nut, tie the magnet securely & then you are ready to roll.. just check around the stand, maybe the magnet is still stuck somewhere like behind the stand or somewhere, take a detailed look around!!! if you find it, stick it with some feviqwik, I did that and no issues so far.. but I still have that "bypass" sensor.. good thing to have..

      to fix that, the svc will simply charge you 800 (maybe 1000 now?) and put a new stand instead of simply removing the old screw & putting a new one.. a 10 n.p. job costing you a whole good 800!!!!

      I will try that tomorrow. The brass nut is available at bajaj spare parts shop the svc told me. And should not cost more than 100 or even less.

      Comment


      • Re: RC390 Side stand error( Brass nut missing/broken)

        Originally posted by anirbanjana View Post

        I will try that tomorrow. The brass nut is available at bajaj spare parts shop the svc told me. And should not cost more than 100 or even less.

        WHAT?!??! wow.. that's amazing man!!! get that little nut, bore out that screw bit, push the new nut in & you should be set to go man!!!

        live long.. live happy.. that's the best revenge that can be served to the people who hate you..

        PDI Checklist here - Emergency Contacts

        Gear:
        MT Revenge [Arrowtip] | SMK Twister [Blade]
        Spartan Helios | Spartan Icarus
        BB Gears Racer Gloves | Aspida Phaeton
        BB Gears Tourer| Allen Cooper 1157
        Spartan Odysseus
        2007 - 2010 Kinetic Nova
        2010 - 2015 Honda Unicorn
        2014 - 2019 KTM RC 200
        2017 - Today KTM Duke 390

        Comment


        • Re: RC390 Side stand error( Brass nut missing/broken)

          Originally posted by Ajay Vishwanath View Post
          WHAT?!??! wow.. that's amazing man!!! get that little nut, bore out that screw bit, push the new nut in & you should be set to go man!!!
          The problem is the stand's bolt is too tight and I was unable to remove it. I can't bore out the broken brass nut with the stand attached to the bike. I will see if I can glue the other end of the brass nut and if that works. If not I will get some mechanic come over and remove the stand the stand for me. then take it forward from there.

          Comment


          • Re: RC390 Side stand error( Brass nut missing/broken)

            Originally posted by Ajay Vishwanath View Post
            if what @s1d said is not possible, just stick a piece of magnet to the same spot as the nut, tie the magnet securely & then you are ready to roll.. just check around the stand, maybe the magnet is still stuck somewhere like behind the stand or somewhere, take a detailed look around!!! if you find it, stick it with some feviqwik, I did that and no issues so far.. but I still have that "bypass" sensor.. good thing to have..

            to fix that, the svc will simply charge you 800 (maybe 1000 now?) and put a new stand instead of simply removing the old screw & putting a new one.. a 10 n.p. job costing you a whole good 800!!!!

            Did you stick a broken nut back to the stand?(if so then there will be glue between the nut and the metal on the stand and no conduction) So the nut does not have to conduct?

            Comment


            • Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

              Originally posted by anirbanjana View Post
              Did you stick a broken nut back to the stand?(if so then there will be glue between the nut and the metal on the stand and no conduction) So the nut does not have to conduct?
              Nooo the glue is between the nut and the screw stuck to the stand. So the head of the screw is not having any glue on it. Also I had in between used a different method that failed. But it encompassed the whole head with molten plastic. Still it worked. So it's not going to be an issue.

              Originally posted by anirbanjana View Post
              The problem is the stand's bolt is too tight and I was unable to remove it. I can't bore out the broken brass nut with the stand attached to the bike. I will see if I can glue the other end of the brass nut and if that works. If not I will get some mechanic come over and remove the stand the stand for me. then take it forward from there.
              Maybe drill a small hole into the screw, plug in a small metal stick & twist the little thing out? Maybe you can even break it off by hammering as it's little weak.

              live long.. live happy.. that's the best revenge that can be served to the people who hate you..

              PDI Checklist here - Emergency Contacts

              Gear:
              MT Revenge [Arrowtip] | SMK Twister [Blade]
              Spartan Helios | Spartan Icarus
              BB Gears Racer Gloves | Aspida Phaeton
              BB Gears Tourer| Allen Cooper 1157
              Spartan Odysseus
              2007 - 2010 Kinetic Nova
              2010 - 2015 Honda Unicorn
              2014 - 2019 KTM RC 200
              2017 - Today KTM Duke 390

              Comment


              • Re: RC390 Side stand error( Brass nut missing/broken)

                Originally posted by anirbanjana View Post
                Hi, I have a rc390 2017. The side stand sensor is broken. The fault is that the brass nut attached to the side stand(which touches the plate when retracted) is fallen off somewhere. The bike is now stalled. The sensor is not in the same place as the older models so I can't by pass it. Has anyone faced the same issue? On older bikes maybe? How do you suggest I fix it? The stand is too tight to remove. Oh, the end of the nut is still stuck in the groove. so got to remove that as well. Let me know what my options are.


                [ATTACH]231475[/ATTACH]
                So a mechanic from clutcheal came over. Removed the stand, removed the broken nut from the stand. He happened to have a brass bolt lying in his bag. Fits it.. Everything works well now. Cost me 250 for Everything.. just ordered the powertronic piggy back ecu. Can't wait to test it out.

                Comment


                • Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

                  The caliper rebuild was a success. The old caliper pistons were pretty worn out, this is my second caliper rebuild and a little over a year since my last rebuild.

                  I ordered the rebuild kit for the caliper and it arrived with 4 pistons and the corresponding o-rings and dust seals but not the O-ring for the fluid. We just used a generic o-ring off the shelf to replace that one. We also received a new bleeder valve with the rubber dust cap.

                  We started by draining the first brake fluid from the system by disconnecting the brake lines. We then removed the brake pads and unmounted the he caliper from its holder.

                  We cracked open the caliper by removing both the Allen bolts that held it together. Removing the old pistons was difficult, one of the pistons was stuck pretty bad and we were unable to remove it even with compressed air, we finally used a pair of nose pliers to remove the stuck piston.

                  On inspection we noticed quite a bit of scouring on the piston, this was because of dust/dirt that managed to get past the dust seal or get stuck on the dust seal and as time progressed the damage got worse.

                  Next we removed the old Orings, a couple of them seemed in good shape but a few were showing signs of wear, nothing that would b a cause for alarm but it was good to change all of them since we were doing a full rebuild.

                  We cleaned up the caliper housing and noticed some scouring on the inside, this wasn't against the piston wall but on the inside of the housing itself where there is no contact, we aren't sure how the scouring happened but since it was in an area that didn't have contact with the piston we decided to leave it as it is.

                  The new pistons are definitely a step up in quality from the old ones. They look machine milled to complete the finish, unlike the old ones which were just cast and polished. You can clearly see the machining marks left from the milling.

                  Now we just had to reassemble all the parts. First the new Orings then the first pistons and finally some loctite for the housing bolts. Before we remounted the caliper we tested if all the pistons were activating freely by running compressed air through the caliper.

                  Satisfied with the result, we mounted that caliper back, reconnected the brake lines and reinstalled the brake pads. We flushed the system again and then filled in new brake fluid and bled the brakes.

                  The entire rebuild took less than a hour, but bleeding the brakes to an extent where we were satisfied took much much longer.

                  The damage was negligible, with the rebuild kit costing about 800 rupees, you can alternatively order the Brembo kit from the USA or UK for the same 28mm pistons for about $65. However with the new milled finish on the piston I doubt you will need to do that.

                  Last edited by Pizzaboi; 07-09-2017, 07:20 PM.

                  Comment


                  • Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

                    Originally posted by Pizzaboi View Post
                    The caliper rebuild was a success. The old caliper pistons were pretty worn out, this is my second caliper rebuild and a little over a year since my last rebuild.

                    I ordered the rebuild kit for the caliper and it arrived with 4 pistons and the corresponding o-rings and dust seals but not the O-ring for the fluid. We just used a generic o-ring off the shelf to replace that one. We also received a new bleeder valve with the rubber dust cap.
                    Excellent, PB. Have you had your fork internals replaced with improved cartridge type like Andreanni or the likes. What suspenders do we have on the inside of the KTM forks, are they BPF type of closed cartridge?

                    Cheers!
                    VJ
                    Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
                    The girl said, 'NO!'


                    And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.


                    THE END

                    Comment


                    • Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

                      Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post
                      Excellent, PB. Have you had your fork internals replaced with improved cartridge type like Andreanni or the likes. What suspenders do we have on the inside of the KTM forks, are they BPF type of closed cartridge?

                      Cheers!
                      VJ
                      Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post
                      Excellent, PB. Have you had your fork internals replaced with improved cartridge type like Andreanni or the likes. What suspenders do we have on the inside of the KTM forks, are they BPF type of closed cartridge?

                      Cheers!
                      VJ
                      I most probably will not be spending on fully adjustable but rather just getting springs for my weight from Racetech. I don't think spending over $2000 is justified for the front and rear suspension.

                      Picking up the springs and working out the dampening will be a fraction of the cost, right now I'm using a heavier weight oil in the front forks but will be upgrading to the Racetech springs later this year, along with a few other parts.

                      Comment


                      • Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

                        I find the forks on the RC390 are pretty good. The only two things that are rubbish on this bike are the brakes and the rear shock. The rear shocks have squishy progressive springs and poor damping (certainly for anybody over 70kg BW). I got Nitron shocks from the UK, they are well priced, very well made and a massive improvement over stock:



                        I got the NTR1 since i am a (spirited) street rider but i would recommend the NTR2 for track use which is the same except it's got seperate rebound and compression adjustment.

                        Sent from my SM-N920G using xBhp.com mobile app
                        Last edited by incipient; 07-20-2017, 02:45 PM.

                        Comment


                        • Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

                          Originally posted by incipient View Post
                          I find the forks on the RC390 are pretty good. The only two things that are rubbish on this bike are the brakes and the rear shock. The rear shocks have squishy progressive springs and poor damping (certainly for anybody over 70kg BW). I got Nitron shocks from the UK, they are well priced, very well made and a massive improvement over stock:



                          I got the NTR1 since i am a (spirited) street rider but i would recommend the NTR2 for track use which is the same except it's got seperate rebound and compression adjustment.

                          Sent from my SM-N920G using xBhp.com mobile app
                          Considering most of my bike, except for the brakes is a budget build, the Nitron is well beyond my budget

                          Comment


                          • Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

                            I think tapatalk has created a dual account for Pizzaboi, will sort it out

                            Comment


                            • Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

                              Very minor weight saving but every gram counts.

                              Removed the tail and will be fabricating a bracket out of aluminum to hold the indicators, number plate light and number plate.

                              Moved the rear brake reservoir to the back of the rearset, this was not needed but I did it more for aesthetic reasons. Ended up removing over a foot of the brake line from the reservoir to the master cylinder. Now there is only about 5" of hose between the reservoir and master cylinder.

                              Removed the​ from extra cowl from the rear tire hugger and cut off the tabs to give it a cleaner look.

                              Comment


                              • Re: KTM RC 390 Ownership Experience

                                Originally posted by Pizzaboi View Post
                                Very minor weight saving but every gram counts.

                                Removed the​ from extra cowl from the rear tire hugger and cut off the tabs to give it a cleaner look.
                                Have you tinkered with your front fork internals? And are they BPF/closed cartridge type ones! The newer ones are open cartridge types, the reason I am asking I did see a photo of yours showing the internals gutted out, would be interested on this one.

                                Cheers!
                                VJ
                                Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
                                The girl said, 'NO!'


                                And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.


                                THE END

                                Comment

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