Hello Brothers!

It's been a long time since my last post. It's been hectic and busy year. Finally got some time.

Yes, I still have her but there are some consistent issues I am unable to resolve because I am unable to find a reliable mechanic. Issues are primarily with the engine and spares.

Had the valves changed, cam and timing chain too but the problem with lose tappet remains. Unable to find the clutch assembly since it's not available. Changed the front tyre, stuck to FX1. Upgraded the rear monoshock to that of KTM Duke and man dies the ride feel soft and planted. I am going to change the brake lines to steel breaded one, had the battery changed to Amaron and the Armature short circuits in the middle of my ride home.

Oh I am sorry did not mention, I have moved to a town about 180 kms from Kolkata, it's Durgapur so I get the pleasure of riding her on the highway more often now. She use to top and 153 but since the engine issue, she now keeps at 139. Cruising is at about 120 comfortably.

After I had the valves changed, I noticed a lot of oil leaking from the cylinder and head joints, gotnit rectified but now it's the Magneto side spitting oil on high speeds. There is this clatter noise from the engine which wasn't there earlier, the idiot who worked on my bike used a hammer to take off the engine head. Yeah, I know, I felt it hard on my heart too, almost felt like dismantling his anatomy. Still looking for a mechanic though.

I ain't letting her go, maybe get a knew one soon. I am working on tuning the monoshock, it's too damn soft and won't do well on corners. The handling is still an issue, it is as if there is a particular point which is too damn precise to figure, exactly where to have everything about the front right. The cone set, fork oil, fitting and nut torque. You miss on any one and the handling goes haywire.

No problems with brakes though, apart from the front caliper. Had to rebore it twice till date, too much torque, one hard bump and it loses the winding. Had the seat made, ass still hurts, too much vibe mostly due to the issue with the tappet. Will have it sorted soon. Sorry for not being around though.

I am here now, let's keep talking. I am at 40k on the ODO guys. May need a new rear tyre, advise on the same would be helpful. I have the Michelin Street, stock size at the rear, may stick to it if not Timsum. Let me know all.

Ride Safe Brothers!!

Hi,

So my objective was to change the backlight of my AS200 console from orange to blue. The same applies to NS/RS/AS.
Only the console disassembly procedure varies. Was a blue backlight fan since RTR160. Also the switch cluster is of blue color, I feel it doesn't match pretty well.
So went through some threads in xbhp to get a rough idea of what LEDs are used inside.

Analysis of console:
The LEDs for needle and tachometer is 3528 SMD 0.2W amber and Red colored.
Since needle is red I don't wanna mess up the colors.
The orange for the tachometer reading needs to be swapped with cool white.

The LEDs for the LCD is 0603 amber ones 0.1w each.
I needed it to be pretty bright so I went ahead using a slightly larger die chip.

Next large die was 1206 SMD LEDs.

Things required.

Desired color of LEDs
3528 and 1206 LEDs least 20 numbers each. SMD soldering can get messy at times. So some spare LEDs can be handy.

Micro soldering station. Soldron brand is recommended due to better temperature accuracy.
Can also use cheap SAMCON brand does the job well.

I'm not much concentrating on the dismantling part as this is already covered in the old thread from Xbhp.

Good soldering experience. This needs patience and lots of experience in terms of desoldering and soldering back.

Note: I'm not using desoldering gun. I'm using desoldering wick to desolder the LCD from the PCB.

Use 35w soldering for desoldering using the desol wick.
Note: dipping the desol wick in liquid flux will help the capillary action of the wick more effective.

[ATTACH]253724[/ATTACH]

Desolder the amber LEDs from the PCB. Mark the polarity of the LEDs.

I'm using cool white for the tachometer reading 3 LEDs.
And blue for the LCD display 8 LEDs.

If one needs he can also swapout the telltale lights LEDs and rev limiter LED color.
I personally like Red is the right choice for revlimiter. So went ahead with it.

[ATTACH]253725[/ATTACH]

A closer look on the PCB.

Now onto the voltmeter or battery voltage monitor system (Fancy techy name).

I bought these cheap 3 digit voltmeter modules off of AliExpress long back. One can use the blank space in console where the Bajaj blue logo is present (Bajaj Bluetooth Logo).

These LED voltmeters are available in various colors one can match the respective LCD backlight color he goes to.

[ATTACH]253726[/ATTACH]

The white plastic frame can be cut to the desired size to accomodate the voltmeter.

There has been significant changes in console of 2012 to 2013 NS and post 2013 NS since more tell tale lights have been added. the number of pins are higher in newer models.

Resolder everything back including the LCD and check the functionality.

[ATTACH]253727[/ATTACH]

Reinstall the casing back. Note: check the gasket (foam tape) used in the console cover. This is done to prevent moisture entry. Also one can add in a packet of silicon desiccant inside.

[ATTACH]253728[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]253729[/ATTACH]
Will add the voltmeter pinouts soon below. There are two methods to get it wired up. Sense pin can directly be linked to battery or the wiring can be contained within console assy.

Please post your views and comments below.

Thanks and regards..
Manoj Sivaraman..

Glad to see you're active here as well apart from Advento group.

Hello Brothers!

It's been a long time since my last post. It's been hectic and busy year. Finally got some time.

Yes, I still have her but there are some consistent issues I am unable to resolve because I am unable to find a reliable mechanic. Issues are primarily with the engine and spares.

Had the valves changed, cam and timing chain too but the problem with lose tappet remains. Unable to find the clutch assembly since it's not available. Changed the front tyre, stuck to FX1. Upgraded the rear monoshock to that of KTM Duke and man dies the ride feel soft and planted. I am going to change the brake lines to steel breaded one, had the battery changed to Amaron and the Armature short circuits in the middle of my ride home.

Oh I am sorry did not mention, I have moved to a town about 180 kms from Kolkata, it's Durgapur so I get the pleasure of riding her on the highway more often now. She use to top and 153 but since the engine issue, she now keeps at 139. Cruising is at about 120 comfortably.

After I had the valves changed, I noticed a lot of oil leaking from the cylinder and head joints, gotnit rectified but now it's the Magneto side spitting oil on high speeds. There is this clatter noise from the engine which wasn't there earlier, the idiot who worked on my bike used a hammer to take off the engine head. Yeah, I know, I felt it hard on my heart too, almost felt like dismantling his anatomy. Still looking for a mechanic though.

I ain't letting her go, maybe get a knew one soon. I am working on tuning the monoshock, it's too damn soft and won't do well on corners. The handling is still an issue, it is as if there is a particular point which is too damn precise to figure, exactly where to have everything about the front right. The cone set, fork oil, fitting and nut torque. You miss on any one and the handling goes haywire.

No problems with brakes though, apart from the front caliper. Had to rebore it twice till date, too much torque, one hard bump and it loses the winding. Had the seat made, ass still hurts, too much vibe mostly due to the issue with the tappet. Will have it sorted soon. Sorry for not being around though.

I am here now, let's keep talking. I am at 40k on the ODO guys. May need a new rear tyre, advise on the same would be helpful. I have the Michelin Street, stock size at the rear, may stick to it if not Timsum. Let me know all.

Ride Safe Brothers!!

Did a LED retrofit on AS200
H7 bulbs and dual beam mod is also carried out, such that low and high beams light up on high beam.
Sharing some light output images
[ATTACH]254693[/ATTACH]
Low beam
[ATTACH]254694[/ATTACH]
High beam

Regards
Manoj Sivaraman

Hello...could you share the brand and wattage of bulbs.
Also how were the bulbs wired for simultanous glow.
And did it require opening the entire bulb assembly? For wiring and bulb installation?

Hi,
Installation is pretty straightforward
Remove the HL assembly from the front structure.
As even for normal bulb change console etc needs to be removed.
Bulbs are plug and play no wiring needs to be tampered.
Just fot the dual beam mod you need to add a 6A10 diode in between high beam and low beam +ve lines.

I have used NOVsight 25w bulbs from AliExpress

Regards
Manoj Sivaraman..

How is the impact of it on the on-coming traffic, Did you tried standing in-front of your own motorcycle and headlight on.

Blinding oncoming traffic is very risky for others and you aswell.

Take care

Hi,
Glare is much low compared to these flashy COB chip LEDs.

Also considering blinding oncoming traffic isn't a topic in india. Checkout all buses and trucks which get built from reputed coach builders all over India (who are approved by ARAI even)
No one follows the headlamp placing height from ground.
Consider you sitting in car and your eyes at approx 5 feet from ground. Most heavy vehicle have headlamps placed at the same height where even those low beam glares.
So I guess the glare topic isn't valid in india atleast..

Regards
Manoj Sivaraman..

DIY Mud Guard Jugaad....

Cost only Rs. 50/-

Howz it guys.......? [ATTACH]254826[/ATTACH][ATTACH]254827[/ATTACH][ATTACH]254828[/ATTACH][ATTACH]254829[/ATTACH][ATTACH]254830[/ATTACH]

Hi,
Installation is pretty straightforward
Remove the HL assembly from the front structure.
As even for normal bulb change console etc needs to be removed.
Bulbs are plug and play no wiring needs to be tampered.
Just fot the dual beam mod you need to add a 6A10 diode in between high beam and low beam +ve lines.

I have used NOVsight 25w bulbs from AliExpress

Regards
Manoj Sivaraman..

Not to complain but this looks like a jugaad as u said earlier. What happened to the stock mud guard? If you went for tail tidy look n still need a mud guard for monsoons get the NS 200's tyre hugger..its cheap n easy to remove n install .

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----



Need to find a good mechanic for that as this bikes faring is a twisted joke from bajaj. Their svc guys cant open the faring with ease rest alone road side mechanics. The being a rare breed now doesn't help either.
Small question..for me to open the front headlight assembly do i need to dismantle the entire fuel tank then go for the headlight like when changing air filter??Or can it be taken care with only the assembly. I am not planning to go for led but most likely HID if and only if I do not find a decent pair of fog lamps to replace my aging projector fog lamps.

Hi,
You can directly remove speedo meter bezel (or speedo flap as bajaj calls it). Remove the console access all 3 bolts holding headlamp assembly.
Don't forget to remove the snap revets.

Pretty easy but compare to normal bike it's quite a process to get things aligned without vibration.

Regards
Manoj Sivaraman..