Re: Suzuki GS150R Chain - Sprocket Issue And Permanent Solution

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Please refer the pictures you asked for:

NEED HELP : Carb Tuning And Ride Quality Issues

After recent service from SSC I am facing mileage and ride quality issues with small hiccups and vibrations in all gears but they are noticeable to me.
While cleaning the carb SSC guys have also disturbed the golden screw of the carb and it was returning 38KMPL only instead of 61 KMPL (before service).
SO I decided to tune it myself.

After going through a post by MSN1 in this thread I tried to retune my carb with 3.25-3.3 turns from tight position and now it's returning 50 KMPL. Still I am not happy with the same as VIBRATIONS and small hiccups are prevailing and I wish I could achieve my old mileage figures of 61KMPL.

Following changes were made in last service:

1. Old air filter was replaced with new one after 41,500 KM.
2. New spark plug replacement after 10,000 KM
3. Carb cleaning for the 1st time (41,500 KM)
4. Old chain and sprocket were replaced with Gixxer's new chain and sprocket (after 20,000 KM)

I am always using EXTRA PREMIUM oil from Govt. owned Indian Oil Petrol bunk, so I can't doubt about any change in fuel quality.
I would like to request my fellow Sr. members in this group to help me out for removing the vibrations and hiccups / mileage issues which popped in after recent service.

Re: Suzuki GS150R Chain - Sprocket Issue And Permanent Solution

Chain adjusters don't look aligned properly - have it realigned. 1st notch on the right vs. 3rd on the left.

The default AFR Screw setting is 2.0 turns out, though one might set it slightly richer with 2.25-2.5 turns out. But am still running on stock set-up, so ask someone who have worked with the carb to help you with an optimum AFR Setting.

Is it possible for us to find the CO% without visiting the SVC ? Like say visiting a centre that does pollution checks for vehicles.

My GS vibrates too - unusually near 4500 rpm ! But this is occasional. So I too will wait what others suggest.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

50 kmpl mileage in metros(pollution with less oxygen) these days is not bad at all. 60 kmpl in metros is lean and is bad for engine's life.
How were you measuring the mileage, has the procedure changed? Has your riding style changed?
What's your current ODO reading?
Although minor, replace the spark-plug.
Do you see carbon fouling on spark-plug? or carbon fouling in exhaust-hole in the silencer?
Also,
1. check free rotation of wheels (both front/rear)
2. what's your average journey length? Distance between each start & stop.
3. What's the grade of engine oil in the crankcase?

Although 2.25 to 3 turns-out give better initial pick up, it makes no difference difference at 6,000 RPM. 2.0 stock setting is not bad at all; I'm at stock setting now (not sure about the last batches).
Yes, at those centers.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Replies inline.

Re: Suzuki GS150R Chain - Sprocket Issue And Permanent Solution

Mine was same until last 2 months.

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Even though I know resv -resv is not accuratre method but I am following same method to calculate mileage since 2009 and it was returning me decent 58-63 KMPL so I am taking it as 61 on average in Hyderabad.
No Change in riding style...just roads of Hyderabad are now quite washed out with heavy rains.

What's your current ODO reading? around 41800
Although minor, replace the spark-plug.
Do you see carbon fouling on spark-plug? or carbon fouling in exhaust-hole in the silencer? Yup before tuning it myself... but now need to check the same after 2 days of usage.
Also,
1. check free rotation of wheels (both front/rear) They are free as expected for a bike.
2. what's your average journey length? Distance between each start & stop. Average journey length: 10-12 KM. Distance between each start stop: 3 KM - 5KM depends on traffic signal.
3. What's the grade of engine oil in the crankcase? It's Gixxer synthetic oil from SSC 10W-40 - I am using the same since long time and it even helped me to attain 65KMPL twice or thrice.

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Home-made fork rod for fork piston removal (not my original idea, from Mitch's Scooter Stuff). Has any anybody tried the OEM tool kit (the rear-shock adjusting nut) for removing the steering race/cone nut?

I use the L-rod and the bigger bar for good leverage while tightening the axle nut - so much so the washers have left punch marks on the swing-arm.



Below: A beautiful collection of DIY videos in Youtube. Search for Mitch's Scooter Stuff.

Re: GS completes 5 years

Hi,

I too completed 5 yrs this year and clocked 26000 kmpl, very less travelling. Want to know did you replaced the head lamp by some brand or changed the coil as mentioned in past posts. I haven't changed the battery yet, but had minor issues which got rectified. Can you advise what to do about my Petrol Tank, in 2 rainy season I was struggling with cleaning water from Tank, somehow it seeped through the cover.

Thanks

Sanjay

Re: GS completes 5 years

I can help with that. I had recently replaced my headlamp with a 30W LED. Didn't rewind coil or use any alternate rectifier. Only changed a connection (which i'm not sure if i can recommend to anyone). I'll post my experience soon.

I had taken pics of the step by step process of replacing headlamp which i can share. The process is also given in the owner's manual and is doable.

Actually, if your replacement bulb is a similar halogen, u can even replace it without removing the front cowl assy. You would need to reach under the cowl (maybe hurting if you have large hands) and use the element of hit and miss to find the pin that holds the bulb; release it and carefully take out the bulb.

Re: GS completes 5 years

Thanks, looking forward for the process

Re: Suzuki GS150R

So after 7 years and 70000 kms later, I'm no longer a proud owner of this great piece of machinery that has served me well.



I had no real complaints with the bike. The bike is still in very good shape and returns a good 50+km/l.

A special thanks to everyone here who was a part of this wonderful journey. The journey started on this very thread.

Re: GS completes 5 years

Congrats on completion of 5 years.

There are drain holes (2 i suppose) on your petrol tank (area surrounding the lid) to drain the water.

It must be blocked. You can clean it without removing the tank.

Take an used wire from accelerator/clutch cable and force it through the holes. any dust should be out on the other side of the tank (bottom).

It will be good if you can remove the tank and clean the rubber tubes connecting to these drain holes. They may also be blocked. It should not take more than 30 minutes for the entire activity.

I did not change (am afraid to open the coil) any thing with respect to head light. Just changed the light to 55/60W (Both HS1 or H4 can be used). No modifications required for this.

Headlight Change...

This might be a long post.. so pls bear with me..

I had wanted to do something to my headlights after a fall during last year's rains in chennai. Fortunately my injury was minor, but then on i've been extra careful in trying to avoid potholes hidden under a layer of water.Lighting had to be improved nevertheless.I decided to start this process sometime in August this year.

The process of replacing the headlamp is given in the owner's manual, but i had taken some pics while i managed to change the headlamp a while ago..

The replacement lamp is a 30/20W LED lamp bought frm Aliexpress here. Cost: around 1370/-.
I havent done coil rewinding. Only the headlight wire which went to the stock RR is connected to the battery (via socket of indicator). This is the step that was performed in the GS150r full DC conversion PDF guide in the thread, given in the final 2 pages of the pdf. The draw on my battery is around 15W lesser than the stock and have been using this setup for the past 3 weeks, travelling close to 100 kms every weekday. battery is retaining its charge and battery voltage is consistent when checked.

The changes done were:
35W Stock lamp replaced with 20W(low)/30W(high) LED
2 X 5W pilot lamps replaced with 2 X 3W LED lamps
1 X 5W license plate lamp replaced with 1.5W LED

Given that the load was close/lesser than stock, i thought i'd use pulsar UG4 RR instead of APE RR (due to cost difference) and change the wiring without rewinding. But, last week while executing it, i messed up the soldering part, and as a result the coil didnt generate any power (i didnt quite know whether it was the RR's fault or the Coil's fault. The Lights worked and the bike started, but the battery wouldnt get charged..). So i approached an auto electrician who just grounded the coil back and reverted to stock. I didnt hav much time to take more risks..


Ok, so was the Change to LED's worth it?

Honestly speaking i would recommend it only 50-60 percent.OR, if you would want better effect of the LED, you will require auxillary lighting. I do not plan to go for aux in the near future.


The LED's give out close to 3000lm and that is more than 4 times of what the 35W stock bulb gives out, but what we see on the road comes down to our eyes..brain and a bit of psychology.

The first day i had this bulb fitted, i pointed the headlight reflector very low.(I had this setting on my stock lamp, and it gave a sufficient output).i retained this setting since i didnt want to cause glare to oncommers.But with so much light on the ground, at nearby distance, even as your headlight eclipses every other headlight around you, you can only see whats in that lit area. Just lift your eyes to a distance, and your eyes will take time to readjust. The bulb is so designed that all 3 LED's light up in high beam. So there is not much of a 'perceived' distance that is added in high beam. That night, i tried hard focussing at distance while riding, that left me with a huge headache!

I then adjusted the headlight screw and aimed the headlight properly (against a wall at around 7ft). Now it worked wonders! Highway riding is great. Better than stock, but cant call it Awesome. Under full dark conditions, you can light up a considerable distance. But opposing light can cause difficulties. For instance, if you happen to ride close to the center of the road (on the side of the divider), and a car/truck comes in highbeam in the opposite lane, your visibility reduces to the extent that you cant even see the divider.I think it happens for other forms of lighting too, but the effect somehow felt more pronounced now.

Now, the light serves my purpose. no more flickering at low speeds and good light on the unlit highway. Hoping for safer rides!

oh.. forgot to tell. There is no glare from the LED's! Distance 8 ft @ 150cms height, no glare. The top of the beam shines just at the top of the boot of the cars in front of you (low beam), looks like the levels are acceptable?

Headlight replacement..

Here's how the front cowl assembly can be taken off to install the headlight.



You will have to remove the 4 screws at the top and the two at the bottom. These are tight, and you cannot unsrew them with normal Star/spanner. you will need T-type ones. I used a 10mm wala for the bottom ones and had the top ones loosened from a mechanic.



To take off the black part of the fairing,you need to give a gentle push from the top as shown



This will expose another big fat screw which is tight. unscrew this.



There are two parts to the assembly. The black plastic portion is held at the front here



and around the sides



and is screwed (now removed) to the frame, that comes between the white portion and itself and held in 2 places on the sides



and to the white fairing itself here at 2 lower ends..(you do not have to remove this)



View from front:




Now,


1) Remove the headlight plug 2) Headlight is visible. 3) Remove the rubber cover. 4) Take out headlight








This is the pin that holds the headlight bulb. I do not have pics of the halogen being held, but to remove the bulb, you need to press this portion gently and move it to release the hold of the spring force.


My LED bulb is also H4 having a nice build





I did not make any changes to the surface or to the cover. The pin holds the bulb firmly with its H4 base. I used a screw driver to press the pin to keep the bulb in place.









Since the LED needs a bit of cooling, i used the cover like this - both to accomodate the sink+fan, and to provide some ventilation.




The 3W LED's that i used..









I couldnt click pics on empty roads/ open spaces to give a better idea of the performance of these bulbs..but the below were clicked at our home

Only pilot lamps on:



Low Beam



High beam



Clicked at default settings - low beam


This is how an onlooker actually sees the headlight. This is on Low beam, and there is no discomfort to an onlooker.



Yours truly....

Re: Suzuki GS150R

Finally changed both the tires with stock specification and brand Michelin sirac street. Costed Rs 3700 here in Chennai. Grip seems to be fine than stock MRF but not ground breaking effects