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**Garry_Menace** · 12-11-2010, 08:38 PM

Originally posted by Garry_Menace View Post

Originally posted by blazing180 View Post

Well i usually do not believe in messing up with the carburettor much. Well i mean if things do demand then only i do some alterations in carb. Well here is my past 7yrs experience with 4-stroke which says:-

I opened the carburettor only twice in 7yrs....reason is simple...i only follow the petrol pump that gives a gud quality petrol i usually preferred indian oil premium or Power by HP. U can easily check this if u feel any drop in ur pickup or bike feels choked,,,,plus make sure u add additive i always add IFTEX. The recommended is 4Ml per 5 litrs but i use a 5ML in 3ltrs...

just use it for once and make sure u mix it properly by shaking the tank or add it before u add petrol....now feel the pickup and smoothness in throttle this is my personnal exp....
Also if u add that u will not feel hickups it will clean ur carb minor impurities....

Now for the taste of the things to come the CARB cleaning...
Well i havent cleaned the CARB yet because it havent felt it like because i use IFTEX regularly. May be if u need it then get it cleaned from a local mechanic or any SVC.

Now i am sure that u wont feel satisfied with their tuning part so tune the carb by ur own. Initially drive for atleast 10-15 KMS. Now raise the RPM to 5000.

Turn the AF mixture screw to anti-clockwise, till ur stokes become uniform and u do not here any mis-firing sound u know (futt futt...sound which comes due to improper mixture)
Now bring down the RPM to 1200-1400

Ride the bike and then stop it
Notice the stokes, if they are uniform then u have won the half game
Now ride at higher pickup and feel if it is gruntier, if not then turn the AF screw to 1/8, do not alter the RPM needle
Ride the bike again till u feel less in vibs more in pickup and stop the bike
Notice the strokes they should be uniform.

Repeat above steps till the u get uniformity in strokes less vibes and grunty pickup...

My advice : Use that iftex regulary u will not need to disturb the carb

For sure i'll be posting the vedio very soon based on my exp till then try it

Bro, actually I asked the SVC guy to re-tune my carb towards slightly more mileage but now I am missing that grunt in pick-up and the vibrations are also increased very much. I can even notice the difference in the exhaust note of my bike after that. Its not that proper RTR sound. I thought of turning the screw some days back but it was so tight. So, I didn't attempted with applying some force as I thought it may cause it to turn more due to the force and jerk. That also created a stupid doubt in my mind that "Am I turning the correct screw?

". Please tell me how to make that screw easy to turn (I mean, some oil or spray which can do the trick) and I want to see some pic so that I can make sure I'm turning the correct screw.

Will someone respond to this?

**Garry_Menace** · 12-11-2010, 08:44 PM

Originally posted by Drifty View Post

Switched to Veedol Super Swift 10W40 oil today at 3500kms.Would feel the difference tommorow while riding as I will be going for the Mumbai-Pune G2G.
For those who want to decrease the vibrations from the foot rest,insert some rubber between the gap where the foot rest is connected with the side panel.I had tried this & felt the difference.

Please do tell us your experience about the oil, bro. And, I would like to ask you the reason behind NOT going to Motul 5100 or Power1

I mean, just like that, or some specific reason? I'm thinking about trying Motul 5100 in the 4th service (still just 3K kms swept). Other suggestions are also welcome but with reviews.

Originally posted by Shankar7 View Post

Cool. but how do you reduce the vibrations coming from Petrol tank to you thighs and arse

You can try something similar if you feel to

Well, I don't have any problem about the vibration felt by rider. I want to minimize the vibes from the pillion footpegs.

**kantu** · 12-11-2010, 10:43 PM

Originally posted by kanishka007 View Post

similar approach

but when did u changed your oil (kms) to be precise

Changed Oil @ 900KM , Can Change @ 500KM itself no issue s in it , TVS Oil sucks big time , lots of Difference now , engine is smooth with smoother gear shifts i dont hear tak tak gear sound whenever i shift now ,and more over engine doesnt heat quickly

**kanishka007** · 12-11-2010, 10:57 PM

Originally posted by kantu View Post

Changed Oil @ 900KM , Can Change @ 500KM itself no issue s in it , TVS Oil sucks big time , lots of Difference now , engine is smooth with smoother gear shifts i dont hear tak tak gear sound whenever i shift now ,and more over engine doesnt heat quickly

yes i think mine is heating a lot. i can feel the heat from about a metre or 2 distance after parking it. also, i was surprised vibs are INVISIBLE as of now in RTR. this was not the case with the RTR 160 in family. it showed its vibrations from quite early. I have taken once to 7k RPM and there were NO vibs yet again. I just hope this continues

**dead_piper** · 12-12-2010, 12:25 AM

Originally posted by Garry_Menace View Post

Will someone respond to this?

jus take it to some mech dude., nobody here seems to be interested in some questions., this thread has changed a lot from being helpful as far as i know., my observation., keep a awesome mech dude.,

peace out., \m/

**Garry_Menace** · 12-12-2010, 12:25 AM

Originally posted by kanishka007 View Post

yes i think mine is heating a lot. i can feel the heat from about a metre or 2 distance after parking it. also, i was surprised vibs are INVISIBLE as of now in RTR. this was not the case with the RTR 160 in family. it showed its vibrations from quite early. I have taken once to 7k RPM and there were NO vibs yet again. I just hope this continues

Possibly, you aren't feeling the vibes maybe coz u're accelerating to that level and then deaccelerating by braking and pressing clutch. Hold the throttle there and get the feel of vibes

**Garry_Menace** · 12-12-2010, 12:28 AM

Originally posted by dead_piper View Post

jus take it to some mech dude., nobody here seems to be interested in some questions., this thread has changed a lot from being helpful as far as i know., my observation., keep a awesome mech dude.,

peace out., \m/

LOL! seems you're quite unhappy with the thread

Well, I hope BLAZING will read my post and comment on that. Or, maybe some other person.

Chill out bro.

**social** · 12-12-2010, 01:13 PM

I had rear ended another bike a week back and maybe that has resulted in some disc alignment problem. But the SC guy could not visibly see any damage. And my front disc is making noise again

The brake pads have already been scraped twice and the SC guy says can do no more... The disc is ever so slightly touching the pads (The mech said nothing unusual) and heats up little more than normal.

While I am sure this will lead to the disc getting worn out real quick, is there a chance of catastrophic brake failure due to constant rubbing of the disc with the pad.

So far the braking is good like always.

Looking for advice.... Thanks

**lijok** · 12-12-2010, 02:19 PM

@Social - by now you should know that the pads almost always remain in contact with the disc. Its nothing to be worried about. But if your disc is even slightly bend, while applying the brake, you can feel the brake lever pulsing. And, if you replace the pads when they are due for change, there is no chance of any catastrophic (huh huge word) brake failure!!!

**haxor** · 12-12-2010, 02:57 PM

Originally posted by social View Post

While I am sure this will lead to the disc getting worn out real quick, is there a chance of catastrophic brake failure due to constant rubbing of the disc with the pad.

So far the braking is good like always.

Well if you think that the Alloy is bent or misaligned,then you check it by yourself

Put the bike on centre stand and rotate the front wheel by urself and see whether the disc is rubbing with the brake pad or the wheel is moving freely.
If it happens then obviusly you wheel is bent.
If not,no need to worry.

**social** · 12-12-2010, 04:18 PM

Originally posted by lijok View Post

@Social - by now you should know that the pads almost always remain in contact with the disc. Its nothing to be worried about. But if your disc is even slightly bend, while applying the brake, you can feel the brake lever pulsing. And, if you replace the pads when they are due for change, there is no chance of any catastrophic (huh huge word) brake failure!!!

I checked the front wheel thoroughly today. It seems only half portion of the disc is touching the pad... (Sound comes only when that part of the disc passes through the pads). But the distortion is not visible and the disc is not wobbling when I rotate the wheel. Guess I'll have to live with it till it's time to change it. And no, when I apply the brake lever there is no pulsating of the lever and the braking is good except for the noise...

And thankfully there's not a chance of "catastrophic" disc failure

Actually I was worried as my daily route is a high speed expressway

and don't want anything nasty happening

Originally posted by haxor View Post

Well if you think that the Alloy is bent or misaligned,then you check it by yourself

Put the bike on centre stand and rotate the front wheel by urself and see whether the disc is rubbing with the brake pad or the wheel is moving freely.
If it happens then obviusly you wheel is bent.
If not,no need to worry.

The wheel is moving freely and does not seem bent. The disc is definitely touching the pads and also heats up more than normal... but already scraped it twice and the SC mech has pleaded helplessness

Guess I'll have to get used to the noise.

3rd service in a couple of weeks time. Will ask him to look at it again.

And finally checked the spark plug. It was brownish is colour so guess the mixture is ok. I thought I was running super rich (had turned it more than two complete rotations to the stock setting. I guess the company sets it very lean)
BTW do you think it is advisable to change the spark plug at 6k? After all it isn't that expensive...

And thanks for the replies

**haxor** · 12-12-2010, 04:23 PM

Bling Bling

Originally posted by social View Post

BTW do you think it is advisable to change the spark plug at 6k? After all it isn't that expensive...

Yeah you should change it after 5000 kms.The original Spark plug by Bosch cost Rs 114.

**kanishka007** · 12-12-2010, 04:35 PM

Originally posted by Garry_Menace View Post

Possibly, you aren't feeling the vibes maybe coz u're accelerating to that level and then deaccelerating by braking and pressing clutch. Hold the throttle there and get the feel of vibes

yes there are vibs

but not in the tank. its around foot peg only.

mine is heating too much i think. i just came back riding 30 odd kms and its burning. also, after riding for 4-5 km if i idle my bike, the RPM will show 2k, whereas it is set at 1200. It will remain at 2k for about 10 sec before normalizing back. SVC says its due to heating which will continue due to bike's colour. is it normal?

**social** · 12-12-2010, 04:44 PM

Originally posted by kanishka007 View Post

yes there are vibs

but not in the tank. its around foot peg only.

mine is heating too much i think. i just came back riding 30 odd kms and its burning. also, after riding for 4-5 km if i idle my bike, the RPM will show 2k, whereas it is set at 1200. It will remain at 2k for about 10 sec before normalizing back. SVC says its due to heating which will continue due to bike's colour. is it normal?

Every one seems to face this problem initially. One possible solution (that worked for me) is to richen the mixture slightly. If the bike it running lean, it heats up much faster.

If the idling comes back to normal after 10 sec then don't worry about it. If not, set the rpm when the engine is warm and that should do the trick

And finally change the engine oil to something else (I used Castrol Activ 4t but any thing 20w40 will do). You should feel some difference

**kantu** · 12-12-2010, 06:19 PM

Originally posted by kanishka007 View Post

mine is heating too much i think. i just came back riding 30 odd kms and its burning. also, after riding for 4-5 km if i idle my bike, the RPM will show 2k, whereas it is set at 1200. It will remain at 2k for about 10 sec before normalizing back. SVC says its due to heating which will continue due to bike's colour. is it normal?

Non sense , I too had same probs i could feel the heat near my legs !!! if i was riding in noon then RPm will be at 2k when idle , just change OIL if not changed till now ,that worked for me

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