Would it be available at SVC?

your fluid level is still at half mark , nothing serious if you don't top up immediately . they will top it up in the service if you remind them . costs around 60 rs for the small bottle .

Will give it a try

Well i usually do not believe in messing up with the carburettor much. Well i mean if things do demand then only i do some alterations in carb. Well here is my past 7yrs experience with 4-stroke which says:-

I opened the carburettor only twice in 7yrs....reason is simple...i only follow the petrol pump that gives a gud quality petrol i usually preferred indian oil premium or Power by HP. U can easily check this if u feel any drop in ur pickup or bike feels choked,,,,plus make sure u add additive i always add IFTEX. The recommended is 4Ml per 5 litrs but i use a 5ML in 3ltrs... just use it for once and make sure u mix it properly by shaking the tank or add it before u add petrol....now feel the pickup and smoothness in throttle this is my personnal exp....
Also if u add that u will not feel hickups it will clean ur carb minor impurities....

Now for the taste of the things to come the CARB cleaning...
Well i havent cleaned the CARB yet because it havent felt it like because i use IFTEX regularly. May be if u need it then get it cleaned from a local mechanic or any SVC.

Now i am sure that u wont feel satisfied with their tuning part so tune the carb by ur own. Initially drive for atleast 10-15 KMS. Now raise the RPM to 5000.

Turn the AF mixture screw to anti-clockwise, till ur stokes become uniform and u do not here any mis-firing sound u know (futt futt...sound which comes due to improper mixture)
Now bring down the RPM to 1200-1400

Ride the bike and then stop it
Notice the stokes, if they are uniform then u have won the half game
Now ride at higher pickup and feel if it is gruntier, if not then turn the AF screw to 1/8, do not alter the RPM needle
Ride the bike again till u feel less in vibs more in pickup and stop the bike
Notice the strokes they should be uniform.

Repeat above steps till the u get uniformity in strokes less vibes and grunty pickup...

My advice : Use that iftex regulary u will not need to disturb the carb

For sure i'll be posting the vedio very soon based on my exp till then try it

Bro, actually I asked the SVC guy to re-tune my carb towards slightly more mileage but now I am missing that grunt in pick-up and the vibrations are also increased very much. I can even notice the difference in the exhaust note of my bike after that. Its not that proper RTR sound. I thought of turning the screw some days back but it was so tight. So, I didn't attempted with applying some force as I thought it may cause it to turn more due to the force and jerk. That also created a stupid doubt in my mind that "Am I turning the correct screw?". Please tell me how to make that screw easy to turn (I mean, some oil or spray which can do the trick) and I want to see some pic so that I can make sure I'm turning the correct screw.

Good what a thought you have , appreciate. "PERIOD"


Thanks buddy, will go to the SVC for the same

It will cost me 1700 rs and thanks for ur advice i will put them back as soon as possible

Yup i do inquire the r15 rear tyre is around 1400 rs as per local mrf dealer

thank you all for your advice i will put RVM's on my bike

In the "Menace" league my 3rd TVS after victor and 160

colour is white. would be thankful if some1 just point out quick dos and donts for the 180

waah beta! jab maine kaha tha tab to nahi maane sir... Yes, xBhp is surely leaving a great impact (obviously positive) on our lives. .... And, I'm loving it

Congrats! buddy. And, the Do's and Don'ts are the same as in your 160. Nothing new

However, I'll suggest you to read about the "break-in" method in contrast to the "running-in", and you can do it if you feel so. No personal experience, so I'm not advising it directly. But, I liked that one and the logic behind that.

guys whats the price for the following list of items., - piston, piston ring,engine head, chamber, valve., basically all the things that come at the vertical part of the engine? except for spark plug :P

thanks!.. I am unaware of the above said method? is it mentioned on this vast thread somewhere or any specific link? would be thankful if you can share

Follow the proper run-in... Keep rpm below 4k till the 1st service and then keep it below 5k for the 1st 1000Km.

If possible, change engine oil after 100-200 km itself...

And don't worry about the other method... But FYI Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

The discription in this page seems to make the reader less confident about the method. Hence, don't allow him choose this method.

Here is the info./method in some simpler words. Hope it will help


POWER run-in [BREAK-IN] vs USER MANUAL [BOOK] run-in
for new bikers & old alike

1st of all I'll tell u to
READ THE MANUAL

POWER RUN IN---
The concept is, do everything opposite to what the manual suggests. BUT,
before u go for the 1st service, thats 500-600kms, I suggest u to change the oil to CASTROL Power1 or Motul 15w50 (NOT SYNTHETIC)

Once thats done, rip ur bike till atleast 90 atleast once SYSTEMATICALLY*, or better will be, take it on a good run like a small trip. Let it cool down from time to time.
DONT do the above without changing the oil because the oil given in a new bike is a little different (mineral), its not meant to take the abuse.

Now, this will set ur engine to take the stress of higher RPMs from the beginning.

This method is used for increasing power delivery in all RPMs.
Tts also refferred to as "BREAK-IN".

There's actually a long theory behind it....

The pistons seal rings should seal perfectly to provide optimum combustion & no pressure leakage... max power!!

How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??

From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far away from being perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.
do this believe me ull never feel out of power again(provided u maintain ur bike well)

NORMAL RUN IN--
Do exactly as per the manual...
Its the "SAFE" procedure in most cases people follow it... for longer life optimum power delivery.
But, the pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.
There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!

If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re bore the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

Fortunately, most new bike owners can't resist the urge to "open it up" once or twice, which is why more engines don't have this problem !!

An additional factor that you may not have realized, is that the person at the dealership who set up your bike probably blasted your brand new bike pretty hard on the "test run". So, without realizing it, that adrenaline crazed set - up mechanic actually did you a huge favor !!


*

P.S. I also used the running-in method because I wasn't aware of anything like this at that time. Not sure that I would have done this if I came to know about it earlier, but may be I could have LOL BUT, later I found that my bike was taken to 80kmph by the showroom guys before delvering it which may have done the trick for me (as mentioned in the end of the write-up).