The discription in this page seems to make the reader less confident about the method. Hence, don't allow him choose this method.

Here is the info./method in some simpler words. Hope it will help


POWER run-in [BREAK-IN] vs USER MANUAL [BOOK] run-in
for new bikers & old alike

1st of all I'll tell u to
READ THE MANUAL

POWER RUN IN---
The concept is, do everything opposite to what the manual suggests. BUT,
before u go for the 1st service, thats 500-600kms, I suggest u to change the oil to CASTROL Power1 or Motul 15w50 (NOT SYNTHETIC)

Once thats done, rip ur bike till atleast 90 atleast once SYSTEMATICALLY*, or better will be, take it on a good run like a small trip. Let it cool down from time to time.
DONT do the above without changing the oil because the oil given in a new bike is a little different (mineral), its not meant to take the abuse.

Now, this will set ur engine to take the stress of higher RPMs from the beginning.

This method is used for increasing power delivery in all RPMs.
Tts also refferred to as "BREAK-IN".

There's actually a long theory behind it....

The pistons seal rings should seal perfectly to provide optimum combustion & no pressure leakage... max power!!

How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??

From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far away from being perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.
do this believe me ull never feel out of power again(provided u maintain ur bike well)

NORMAL RUN IN--
Do exactly as per the manual...
Its the "SAFE" procedure in most cases people follow it... for longer life optimum power delivery.
But, the pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.
There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!

If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re bore the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

Fortunately, most new bike owners can't resist the urge to "open it up" once or twice, which is why more engines don't have this problem !!

An additional factor that you may not have realized, is that the person at the dealership who set up your bike probably blasted your brand new bike pretty hard on the "test run". So, without realizing it, that adrenaline crazed set - up mechanic actually did you a huge favor !!


*

P.S. I also used the running-in method because I wasn't aware of anything like this at that time. Not sure that I would have done this if I came to know about it earlier, but may be I could have LOL BUT, later I found that my bike was taken to 80kmph by the showroom guys before delvering it which may have done the trick for me (as mentioned in the end of the write-up).

have done 900KM planning to change oil to Castrol Power 1 ...
How i can do this by myself ??? how to drain existing oil??
do i have to take it to a service center ??? if so then the engine will be warm by then ,is it ok to change oil when engine is warm ??

If you have the proper tools, you can do it by yourself. For changing the oil, you just need to open the top filling cap, then remove the drain nut at the bottom. I think the size of the nut is #19 or 17. Not sure. A ring spanner is the best tool.

If you also need to change the oil filter, you'll need to get a #8 nut driver (Mine is like a T, at the long end a socket to hold the #8 nut). You just need to undo the 3 nuts, carefully remove the plate and a washer inside, use a flat end screw driver to nudge the filter out, clean the area, put back the new one and fix the plate back.

Oil change is best done when the engine is warm. (Warm - not hot!!)

100% true brother

Any one try castrol power 1 racing i am thinking about changing it in my 6th service

Added IFTEX Cleaning System G to petrol today. Have not felt any difference yet Lets see if it really works as advertised....

^^^@180 You can use Castrol Power 1 racing but last heard (in the engine oil section) the product has been discontinued... Even the Castrol stockist did not have any the last time I went to buy Power 1 SS.

bike's done 1025 kms......so ripped the bike hell, i was testing out the top speed in each gear and took the bike all the way upto 12k and suddenly some strange sound started coming,i took it to a mechanic and he's like the engine oil isnt getting supplied to the engine and take to the SVC and ask them for free repair.he said some piston problem.what is the exact problem??? is it my fault that i took it to 12k RPM?? i thought after run in one can do anything??

Amazing

@ both of you,

thanks a ton for sharing both the methods. i think i will be using a mix of the 2. I want longevity as well as decent power delivery. There is a possibility of me using K&N down the line but thats not at all gonna happen in near future. after 5-6k may be.

Currently i have clocked some 60 kms odd. i have been driving at 3000-3500 RPM as of now. Max speed and also the cruise speed is 50kmph as of now.

But- now i think i will rip it. slightly though :P but i think i will stick to the above RPMs mostly till my 1st service. After that, as mentioned by social i will peak it to 5000 Rpms till 1000kms frequently.

This is a defensive approach, but let it be. I want to have the rings settled well as well as the bike to take time to mould itself. please correct me if i am wrong anywhere

Bro, don't keep your speed constant at 50kmph... i mean, ride with varying speeds and RPM and keep it low (as you are already doing).

And, you can't apply the mixture of the 2 methods. Because, even in the method given by me, it is suggested to implement the high bursts methods only once (if you read it again, in the end you'll find that after doing all this, you should keep RPM below 4.5-5K till 2-3 services. So, ultimately, the mixture of RUNNING-IN and BREAK-IN results in the method descibed in that write-up .

And yeah, don't forget to change the oil before doing that buddy. The mineral oil given by TVS can't take the abuse. You have to do that with semi-synthetic oil

hmmm overwhelming response to what i asked., hmm answers got =zero

anyways i wanted to know the price if theres any one who knew it as i got everything replaced under warranty., bike is again brand new :P., had some smoke issues.,

bike=8 months., kms run=16300 odd kms run.,

I LOVE WARRANTY.,

Menace, let me sum it up because i am confused

I will rip it hard once, asap. Also, will maintain my RPM levels, but vary the speed. will cross the 4000 RPM after 500kms (in addition to one rip session )

also, will change the engine oil asap

Bizarre really!.
How could he conclude to all this,without even inspecting the damn thing??

May be it's the one-way clutch ..

lol just because you completed you cant rip it like that to the max , you should take it there gradually , atleast that s what i am doing , till 500KM i kept below 4k RPM having short bursts till 6kRPM now i shift at 5kRPM @ 900KM normally now its adjusted to 5k shifts , and yeah do change OIL other than TVS , dont rip having TVS oil its mineral water at high temp !

similar approach but when did u changed your oil (kms) to be precise

Switched to Veedol Super Swift 10W40 oil today at 3500kms.Would feel the difference tommorow while riding as I will be going for the Mumbai-Pune G2G.
For those who want to decrease the vibrations from the foot rest,insert some rubber between the gap where the foot rest is connected with the side panel.I had tried this & felt the difference.